Wyoming 818R Build Thread

[shoeish]

Center console and floor:



Shifter alignment in console:


I like to leave myself notes, especially since all my holes don't line up perfectly and I put the ECU rivnuts in a place now occupied by an air filter.


I am going to run a full glass windshield as I will have to drive a couple hours to autocross events. Do I need to put it on before securing the dash or will it just work?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I am going to run a full glass windshield as I will have to drive a couple hours to autocross events. Do I need to put it on before securing the dash or will it just work?

Put the wind shield frame on and splash panel on before the dash. But save the glass as the very last thing on the car.
Bob

[mikeb75]

Nice job on the OBD-II & ECU learning jumpers! But - you don't actually need a switch on the white/nylon jumper block. You can leave that plugged in; AFAIK it makes no difference to ECU operation.

Also, your explanation on the AWIC makes sense since you have should have cooling capacity in excess - it was just something I noticed. Can't wait to see this build running!

[shoeish]

Horn wire should work like this. Run hot power from your fuse box to the signal side of the horn relay. Run the ground for relay signal to the post on your horn switch. When you press the horn button you complete the signal circuit in the relay and then the power side sends power to the horns (which you ground to frame). We used those same Hella horns on our MR2 Lemons car because we found that people wandering the paddock often couldn't hear our mid-engined engine, but they could always hear those horns!

Build's looking great BTW. I like the kph speedo

Thanks! I have the iWire kit so that part is all done, I was more concerned with how to connect the button in the steering wheel button hub to the factory wiring, which then neatly plugs into the iWire harness.

Anybody get self cancelling blinkers and an aftermarket steering wheel sorted out?

[AZPete]

See this for cancelling turn signal:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...heel-installed

[shoeish]

See this for cancelling turn signal:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...heel-installed

This is perfect info, thank you! I was on the right track, I just couldn't get my clockspring apart. I'll try harder. Thanks!

I'll send you a box of snow to say thanks.

[shoeish]

I got the horn and self canceling blinkers to work with my aftermarket steering wheel hub.

I split the factory clockring apart, using only the center section. I took the copper ring off the Hub.


I filed on it just a bit so that it would fit on the backside of the cancelling hub. To hold it in place, I used two zip ties and pulled them tight.


Now I had to attach this plastic hub to the other hub. First I tried silicon, but it was just a little too wiggly.


Luckily, the plastic disc in the hub is far enough away from the steel that I was able to drill through everything and put two rivets in. I had to file about 1/8" off the end of it for it to not touch or rub on anything.

From there it was easy. A bobby pin from the wife, rolled up then rotated 90 degrees.



Adjust accordingly and HONK.

I added some green rope lights from amazon as well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


They are VERY nicely built units.

[shoeish]

I had to take my dash off to get my aftermarket gauges aligned perfectly and convert my British style (down is on) switches to US style (up is on) so I thought I would take some pictures for you all.




The horn:

[shoeish]

Here is what the rear of everything looks like, in what I think is the final form.




Fuel Pressure Regulator:
Tomei Fuel Pressure Regulator Type-S
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...gulator-type-s

Fuel Pressure Sensor Fitting:
Moroso 65360 Fuel Gauge Fitting
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COS646


Charcoal Canister:
ACDelco 215-153 GM Original Equipment Vapor Canister
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9I9GQ

Here is the front battery, intercooler, pump, etc.



Front Driver Side


Front Passenger Side

[shoeish]

Shifter fitment. When I pull everything off I will get exact measurements and put them here:

________" from firewall to Front of shifter mounting plate
________" from firewall to bolt holes for mounting plate
________" from firewall to console hole
________" from rear something to console piece

[Hindsight]

Looks very nice! I like the carbon fiber. I take it you are laying up the carbon yourself? Are you vacuum bagging it? I'd like to learn to do that for various interior trim pieces on mine as well.

[shoeish]

Looks very nice! I like the carbon fiber. I take it you are laying up the carbon yourself? Are you vacuum bagging it? I'd like to learn to do that for various interior trim pieces on mine as well.

I used this kit for the carbon fiber:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CPN0BB8/

[Hindsight]

Wow, I couldn't tell.... looks like the real thing. Are you just wrapping it over the aluminum?

[shoeish]

It is really nice stuff. I cleaned the aluminum with window cleaner, wiped it clean, then added a crapton of window cleaner, slapped the stuff down, then used a credit card to squeegee the sticker down straight onto the aluminum. It's the first piece I have done, it was really easy the second time, haha.

[Hindsight]

Wow, well you can't tell. Looks great (as does the whole build). Very nice attention to detail.

[shoeish]

Wow, well you can't tell. Looks great (as does the whole build). Very nice attention to detail.

Thanks! Your car looks awesome too.

[shoeish]

I need a much better spot to tie the anti-submarine strap of my five point harnesses down. Is this a good spot? Can I bolt it in or should I grand and weld?

[Hindsight]

Sub strap should be about 20 degrees back from your legs. If you haven't bought the harness, you may consider 6 point instead of 5 (comfort, and safety of your wedding tackle).

I would weld it, but don't think you would fail an inspection if you didn't (I am not an expert though).

[FFRSpec72]

I would cut the tab off and mount to the floor for a 5 pt harness

[shoeish]

I would cut the tab off and mount to the floor for a 5 pt harness

I won't be using the center tab at all, its way too far forward.

Sub strap should be about 20 degrees back from your legs. If you haven't bought the harness, you may consider 6 point instead of 5 (comfort, and safety of your wedding tackle).

I would weld it, but don't think you would fail an inspection if you didn't (I am not an expert though).

If it needs to be about that far back I don't have to add the angle iron at all, IF i can bend the tab of the bolt end just a smidge.



What do you think?

[Hindsight]

That will work. Schroth actually makes bendable tabs for this purpose. They can be bent with pliers and a vise but still have the necessary strength against expansion in an accident. Just ensure the tab follows the angle of the harness (exactly as you have drawn in your pic).

See page 13 here: https://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/...structions.pdf

[bbjones121]

Looks great.

[shoeish]

The car has been ready to bolt the wheels on and take for a spin for a while, but last night it actually happened. Was a little too cold out for a drive much longer than this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hru0d91SJt4

[Hindsight]

That counts as first kart. Congrats!

[bbjones121]

Ha-ha, nice drive

[shoeish]

What a week. I brought my 818R down to SCR Performance in Loveland, CO for a final mechanical check, an alignment, and a dyno tune. Everything was plumbed up right and the things we found were VERY minor.



To get enough camber/caster into the front of the car we had to move the lower control arms to the outside holes, but that made my tierod ends not able to reach. Anybody have any ideas on this? Are longer tie-rod ends available anywhere?



Also, with the Wilwood brakes FFR sent with my kit, the tierod outers are within a millimeter of the brake rotor. I am going to have to have some custom machining done on the rotor hat and caliper brackets to add space. It looks like the hat is just too deep, but it looks like plenty of material.

As for the dyno tune? I was VERY pleased with the numbers. 360whp/350tq at 17-18psi with a whole lot of area under the curve, all on 91 octane gas. I wish it spooled a little sooner, but at 5000' elevation it was spooling pretty dang early. It also sounded amazing and was really, really loud. I will have to fit a much better muffler setup to the car to be legal for any autocross. The cooling system did its job for 20+ dyno tunes in a row with very little fans setup. The AWIC system was super effective as well, causing 210 degree F air to go into the intake at only 10 degrees F above ambient.




Dyno pull:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKjHuxFx9sc

From inside:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h28HgwRAalU

[bbjones121]

Nice looking pull! The tie rod ends are an issue. Mechies may be making some more extensions. I was considering just welding a nut on the end.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

To get enough camber/caster into the front of the car we had to move the lower control arms to the outside holes, but that made my tierod ends not able to reach. Anybody have any ideas on this? Are longer tie-rod ends available anywhere?

Hi Shoeish,
I have the same setup.
(outside holes with sedan arms)
My early chassis the rack was offset to the drivers side and adding Mechie3 extender to the passenger side was enough.
I also changes to all 4" tubes on my UCA. May not be necessary if your putting in a lot of static camber.
Bob

[shoeish]

The steering rack extenders are available here from Zero Decibel Motorsports.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...r-Zero-Decibel

Buy a few to make mine cheaper.

[Mechie3]

I just now put two and two together between your real name and your screen name. Lol

[shoeish]

I just now put two and two together between your real name and your screen name. Lol

Close-ish enough.

[Pearldrummer7]

I just now put two and two together between your real name and your screen name. Lol

Close-ish enough.

I feel very out of the loop! Fill the rest of us in?

[shoeish]

My last name is Schuh, pronounced shoe.

Shoe.....ish.

Shoeish.

[shoeish]

How does one separate the T adapter from the shifter shaft so I can modify it? I tried heating it and pulling but I'm out of ideas without putting a huge amount of force on things. The shifter does indeed hit my bodywork. Thanks in advance!

[JeromeS13]

Are you referring to the one on the transmission side with two roll pins through it?

[shoeish]

It's the one with one rollpin through it on the transmission.

[Hindsight]

I just removed the roll pin and it pulled right off. I cut the collar off of it and welded it to another arm I made. If it's stuck to the trans, must be corrosion. I would try twisting it.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

It's the one with one rollpin through it on the transmission.

Do you realize there are two roll pins?

[K3LAG]

Do you realize there are two roll pins?

For those that may not be seeing it right away, one roll pin is inside the other. You have remove the inner smaller roll pin before you can remove the bigger one.

Larry

[shoeish]

I put the big roll pin back in so I wouldn't lose it. Is there still a second one?

Thanks all.