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Thread: Roadster body shell prep for painting

  1. #1
    Member BobCarter's Avatar
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    Roadster body shell prep for painting

    I just had my body shop / paint crew look over the body shell for my 20 th Anniv. Roadster.
    They commented on how much time it is going to take prep'g the fiberglass shell due especially to the verrry hard bonding stuff (gelcoat?) used to join panels to one another. When they looked and felt the underside of the shell a question was raised as to why the underside of the shell has such smooth seam joints while the exterior is rough and raised in many areas. In talking to the tech guys at FFR I learned that since the body panels are laid up in the forms upside down when the adjacent panels are joned gravity causes the gelcoat to flow down through the joints and this results in the rough hardened result on the exterior surface of the shell.
    These joints will take a lot of careful smoothing and this will of course take time. I'm interested in learning from the guys who have been down this road before about any methods/tips they may have which ease the prep effort and shorten the time required to get a good smooth finish ready for paint. I am a novice on this subject and am learning as I go.
    Thanks for any and all comments.

  2. #2
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quite obviously the guys you are talking to have not ever done one of these cars. In all honesty you might be wise to shop around or get some recommendations for someone who has. There are lots of nuances to these bodies.

    Jeff

  3. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    To add to Jeff's comments, their statements show a complete lack of understanding of how the bodies are made. They aren't separate panels. The body is made in one piece. That's why it's smooth on the inside. The lines on the outside are parting lines where the mold pieces fit together and separate once the body is laid up. The material in the parting line areas isn't any different than what the rest of the body is made from, and is quickly ground off with the right tools. Probably one of the easiest parts of the whole job. I too would be very skeptical of these guys.

    Factory Five of course was right these bodies are laid up upside down. They should know. And yes material will flow down into any gaps between the mold pieces, causing the raised parting lines on top when it's pulled from the molds. I'm guessing they misunderstood the rest of the question though. They know they're one piece, not made from multiple panels.
    Last edited by edwardb; 11-10-2015 at 09:03 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  4. #4
    Member BobCarter's Avatar
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    Thanks to both for your comments. Looks like more research is in order.
    Thanks again

  5. #5
    Senior Member Paul Mischenko's Avatar
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    Hey guys, still haven't decided who will do the paint on my 20th Anniversary roadster. I live in Westchester, NY, zip 10510, anyone know of a great paint shop who's had experience with FFR before that isn't too far away? Thanks

  6. #6
    cobra Handler skullandbones's Avatar
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    pHi Bob,

    You stated "my body shop/paint crew" so I was wondering do you own a body shop or have some relationship with this group? I may have misunderstood. You would be well advised to get a shop to give you an item by item break down on this project. I like that as it can give you the assurance that the estimate is based on the operators estimate of the hours spent. I would feel very uncomfortable if that was not included to, at least, know the guy has an idea of what he's doing. Unless, it's someone like "da bat" who does them all the time, it could result in an issue later with the price or "side lining your project" for more routine work they are used to doing. I've heard several night mares like that. Starts out good but ends up with hard feelings, delayed work, or legal solution.

    Good luck with the search,

    WEK.
    FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046

  7. #7
    Member BobCarter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skullandbones View Post
    pHi Bob,

    You stated "my body shop/paint crew" so I was wondering do you own a body shop or have some relationship with this group? I may have misunderstood. You would be well advised to get a shop to give you an item by item break down on this project. I like that as it can give you the assurance that the estimate is based on the operators estimate of the hours spent. I would feel very uncomfortable if that was not included to, at least, know the guy has an idea of what he's doing. Unless, it's someone like "da bat" who does them all the time, it could result in an issue later with the price or "side lining your project" for more routine work they are used to doing. I've heard several night mares like that. Starts out good but ends up with hard feelings, delayed work, or legal solution.



    Good luck with the search,

    WEK.
    WEK-
    No I dont have my own body/paint shop. Your points and Pauls points are well made. Thanks for your input.

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