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Thread: Redfogo's 818C build

  1. #201
    Any pics of them mounted? Plan to use VHB tape to mount the lense?
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  2. #202
    Did the same approach when I had to redo my headlight buckets. Just never posted them. I like it better than the hanging studs especially if the fenders are already installed.

  3. #203
    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    Any pics of them mounted? Plan to use VHB tape to mount the lense?
    Yeah I plan to use VHB tape idea ATM. That won't go on though until after the car is painted so be a while for that step to happen. I have a quick picture I took on my way out this morning sorry for the dust didn't have time to make a nicer pic lol

    image_zpsgbzoiibp.JPG

    I'm also looking into some kinda gasket material to place between the body and the light for a better seal something rubber I'm guessing nothing like glue but just something to help fill any voids and still be easy to remove. VHb tape might work well for this as well just have to swap every time I drop the lights but I don't imagine that being very often once together.
    Last edited by redfogo; 04-01-2018 at 10:25 PM.

  4. #204
    I used a foam weatherstrip material for the seal. Let me try to find some pics of it but I got it from mcmastercarr

  5. #205
    I put 1/2" VHB on the lens, pressed it on until no bubbles, then peeled off the backing and pressed the lens in place . . . it looked good for a week, when bubbles appeared. So, then I carefully pried the lens off, cleaned it up and painted the inside half-inch rim black. Again, applied the VHB tape and reinstalled. Now it looks good. Lesson learned: paint the inside of the lens rim.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  6. #206
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    I am using this foam rubber on mine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PEZ1FK..._jEK7yb03GY94J

  7. #207
    Quote Originally Posted by bbjones121 View Post
    I am using this foam rubber on mine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PEZ1FK..._jEK7yb03GY94J
    How does that work? Is it a one time use kinda foam?
    Last edited by redfogo; 04-12-2017 at 10:39 PM.

  8. #208
    My mounting solution for the Hella light!!!

    Adjustment looks to be working and mounting is nice and rock solid! I thought of this after finding out that the new headlight shells I was sent had miss aligned holes for the Hella mounts. The 1st ones FFR sent fit good but I ruined them.. Maybe they got a bad batch on the second run... After not having any way to mount the hella light correctly and getting frustrated I would have to get another set. I thought of a solution and it should work for everyone! Notice how my bolts are not centered this is not because I did something wrong its because the FFR shells were misaligned for the Hella mounting holes. If you do this on yours I would assume the bolts should be dead center. All you need are 1/4 grommets thread the screws into the lights by hand tell you have enough to grab with a screw driver on the back side.

    I have this under Update 20 on my site for anyone following. I plan to upload this into my wiki in a few days as well http://redfogo.com/index.php/2017/04/13/update-20/

    unnamed45_zpsfhacvvdm.JPG
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    6643654_zpswivojatd.JPG
    unnamed8976_zpsy01zu32e.JPG
    Last edited by redfogo; 04-01-2018 at 10:33 PM.

  9. #209
    Thanks for the detailed website... I just found it and am going through it as i type this

  10. #210
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    How do you adjust the Hella aim? The ball-end screws need to be fixed so they cant move forward or backwards so that when they are turned the light moves in and out, no?

    Also, what riv-nuts did you use for the buckets?

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by redfogo View Post
    How does that work? Is it a one time use kinda foam?
    I haven't actually used it yet. I was going to put mold release wax on my buckets, then squeeze this all around the edge from the back side with my screws loosened slightly, let it dry, then tighten the screws holding my buckets in place. I already installed my headlight lenses and I don't want to pull then off, so I am just going to put it around the buckets from the backside and call it good.

  12. #212
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    I had similar issues with my Hella projectors. The cutoff line was not even close to level either. I had to make my mounting holes oblong and hot glue the tabs and physical hold the projector in place while the glue dried. I then took them out and epoxied the entire oblong openings over the hot glue after I removed what hot glue I could.

  13. #213
    Quote Originally Posted by ben1272 View Post
    How do you adjust the Hella aim? The ball-end screws need to be fixed so they cant move forward or backwards so that when they are turned the light moves in and out, no?

    Also, what riv-nuts did you use for the buckets?
    I used 10 -24 rivnuts.

    Thanks for the adjustment question, I got around to checking that out last night(needed to wire the lights up). There is some adjust ability but not a lot to be honest I did get them to adjust a little bit though. So after further review this method may not be for most people interested in full adjustment .

    I reviewed the FFR way and they set the projectors further back so the lights when installed from what I can tell do not sit flush in the housing. I am not a big fan of non-flush set up. After getting my light installed and seeing the lights on and the angles they are at, I'm okay with them in their more limited position. THey seem to point well just in the spot they are at. One option I did look at though last night is you could get some nuts and put them in between to lock everything in place if you want them further back.

    I did do the FFR/ normal install with epoxy on the last set up and I choked up on the light just as much as I have them now and had about the same amount of limited adjustment. I'm just not a fan of them sitting to far back.

    Here is the difference in the fitment from what I can tell if you want full adjustment
    FFR
    Capture4_zps9rnsw1qk.PNG

    Mine
    unnamed8976_zpsy01zu32e (1).JPG
    Last edited by redfogo; 04-01-2018 at 10:36 PM.

  14. #214
    Quote Originally Posted by bbjones121 View Post
    I had similar issues with my Hella projectors. The cutoff line was not even close to level either. I had to make my mounting holes oblong and hot glue the tabs and physical hold the projector in place while the glue dried. I then took them out and epoxied the entire oblong openings over the hot glue after I removed what hot glue I could.
    I guess maybe I wasn't the only one to get a bad batch what color of black did you get? The flat or the raw black glossy color?

  15. #215
    For the ball end screwed you epoxy the retainer I'm place and screw the screws in and out accordingly. It's all in the manual.

  16. #216
    Got the lights connected and wired to be removable. I used default FFR lights and I think they are plenty bright when the car is on and running I like the way everything looks and turned out! Maybe get some diff color headlight bulbs only thing I can think of ATM.

    image_zpspyipu23i.JPG
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    image_zpsdc0doovd.JPG
    Last edited by redfogo; 04-01-2018 at 10:39 PM.

  17. #217
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    If you have to remove the buckets, does that mean you'll have to pry the lenses off to get to the bolts?

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    If you have to remove the buckets, does that mean you'll have to pry the lenses off to get to the bolts?
    Yes, double sided foam tape and light caulk seal shouldn't be hard to get off.

  19. #219
    I wanted to get removable lights that could be taken out from under the car but just hard to get any good room to work with the actually bolt and unbolt them effectively. VHB tape seems to be the best way to do things

  20. #220
    I have removed my headlight lenses mounted with VHB tape and it's not difficult if you carefully pry the lens up and carefully insert something like a flexible putty knife to break the VHB tape. Please note that I had to remove the lens because I thought the VHB tape would give a nice black border, but it develops bubbles after a few days in the sun. I removed the lens, taped off 1/2" and painted the inside edge black, then put it back on with VHB tape again. Don't do what I did - paint the inside border first.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  21. #221
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips guys, I thought removing the VHB tape was going to be a huge pain but it seems doable. Pete, would you recommend any particular paint or prep on the lenses? If I scuff up the lenses for the paint to adhere, will those marks show up on the other side?

  22. #222
    Re paint prep, I just used a satin black spray paint because that's what I had, but since the "surface" you see if through the lens I think gloss or even flat black would look the same. You could probably even use a brush. I think if you roughed up the lens surface it might show, so try it on some plexi first.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  23. #223
    Pete, did you paint the inside just so the outside would be smooth and resist chipping?
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  24. #224
    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    Pete, did you paint the inside just so the outside would be smooth and resist chipping?
    I second this question I'm on the fence between painting the inside and outside. Painting the outside seems like it might look better. Or maybe a a vinyl decal cut to the outline was another thought. Idk if that would hold up great or not. I feel it would hold up better than paint on the outside. I do have access to a vinyl cutter...
    Last edited by redfogo; 04-26-2017 at 01:08 PM.

  25. #225
    Craig, yup, to be smooth and not chip when I clean off bugs.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  26. #226
    Do you still have the pictures of your infinitybox wiring harness? The photobucket pictures are missing on here and your website since they cancelled the free hosting a few months back. I just wanted to look at some of your stuff for reference.

    Hopefully the build is still progressing!

  27. #227
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    Paint the inside of the lens
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  28. #228
    Quote Originally Posted by lsfourwheeler View Post
    Do you still have the pictures of your infinitybox wiring harness? The photobucket pictures are missing on here and your website since they cancelled the free hosting a few months back. I just wanted to look at some of your stuff for reference.

    Hopefully the build is still progressing!
    http://redfogo.com/index.php/wiring/

    Are these the kinda of pictures your looking for? I also went ahead and updated my site to remove any of the photobucket pics. Let me know if you need anything else I will see when I can get the forum pics updated as well! I am at a bit a stop atm waiting for some body help.
    Last edited by redfogo; 01-24-2018 at 01:51 AM.

  29. #229
    Quote Originally Posted by redfogo View Post
    http://redfogo.com/index.php/wiring/

    Are these the kinda of pictures your looking for? I also went ahead and updated my site to remove any of the photobucket pics. Let me know if you need anything else I will see when I can get the forum pics updated as well! I am at a bit a stop atm waiting for some body help.
    Perfect! Thanks for updating those

  30. #230
    http://redfogo.com/index.php/2018/04/02/update-21/

    Updates woo finally!!! Promise I will get the FFR forum images fixed as well I think I got all the ones on my site fixed. Photobucked really killed things...

    I took a bit of time off trying to think of what I wanted to do with bodywork if I wanted to do the work myself or have a friend take care of the work who owned a body shop. Unfortunately, I was forced into a DIY as my buddy with the body shop has way to many customers coming in right now bad for me great for him! So After the long wait, I decided to move forward and attempt my own bodywork scary moments but hey I got a kit car to learn new things right!

    I’m not 100% done with my fender corners yet but here is the current progress. Note I have been following Blwalker105's write up for all my fender/filler work. His filler is the bomb!

    FFR finish way to big

    20180328_140459.jpg

    Comming along kinda lol

    20180329_120503.jpg

    Much better just need to bring the top down a little bit to match the fender.

    20180331_152608.jpg

    Almost ready just need a bit more spot finishes and then I can glass over. Helpful hint shop vac while you sand and cut helps cut down on a big mess.

    20180331_160510.jpg

    Part 2

    Hood is also installed finally onto the hood mounts and latches. I need to glass over the mounts for more strength but for now, the JB WELD 15min epoxy seems to hold great.

    20180322_185528.jpg20180322_232947.jpg

    Aero catch mounts have also been installed on each corner. More detailed howto on the aerocatch install will be posted up soon on my site.

    20180330_122154.jpg
    Last edited by redfogo; 04-01-2018 at 11:28 PM.

  31. #231
    Folks with the zero decibel mounts did you guys have to shave the front of the hood a good amount to clear the grill so it didn't hit when it comes up? I shaved mine a bit it helped but I think I need to cut it down more. I hadn't seen anyone else post about it but maybe my hoods just awkard batch or I messed something up.

    I don't mind cutting down more not a big deal just more wondering if I did something wrong or not. I talked with mechie3 Facebook chat at midnight he has the best chat support of any vendor lol. sorry to chat so late.

    He said he hasn't heard much of any issues like what I described so figured I would post up see if anyone else had any feedback.

  32. #232
    Re the front of the hood, I had that problem but eventually found that I could loosen the ZDB hood hinge mounting bolts a bit and adjust things so the front of the hood clears the grill piece. I suggest you don't shave any more, but keep fiddling with it.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  33. #233
    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Re the front of the hood, I had that problem but eventually found that I could loosen the ZDB hood hinge mounting bolts a bit and adjust things so the front of the hood clears the grill piece. I suggest you don't shave any more, but keep fiddling with it.
    Douse your grill and hood stick out the same or does your grill stick out past the hood?
    Last edited by redfogo; 04-02-2018 at 04:25 PM.

  34. #234
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    Man you got a HUGE supercharger on that thing! loll
    Looks pretty bad for front view and drag. lol

    Quote Originally Posted by redfogo View Post
    Folks with the zero decibel mounts did you guys have to shave the front of the hood a good amount to clear the grill so it didn't hit when it comes up?

    20180322_232947.jpg
    Oh yeah!!!! I needed to shave very precisely for long enough. I didn't want to shave more and remove too much of the round section at the front of hood. I tried adjusting the bolts and everything but in order to keep the hood in the right place I couldn't do much. It eventually worked out. It's still very close and if I don't grab the hood correctly and move it correctly, it would rub just a little on the grill. So NO ONE other than me is allowed to open my Hood.

    I also have that tight clearance on top back of the grill with the half moon arms when hood if fully open.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  35. #235
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Man you got a HUGE supercharger on that thing! loll
    Looks pretty bad for front view and drag. lol



    Oh yeah!!!! I needed to shave very precisely for long enough. I didn't want to shave more and remove too much of the round section at the front of hood. I tried adjusting the bolts and everything but in order to keep the hood in the right place I couldn't do much. It eventually worked out. It's still very close and if I don't

    I also have that tight clearance on top back of the grill with the half moon arms when hood if fully open.
    Twin charger time!!! Great idea Frank thank you!!!

    Also on the topic of the fitment of the the back of the grill where arms come close. I found a fix for that! Mechie3 pointed that out to me in my convo with him there is a tab on the back of the mount that attaches to the frame it makes a big difference to add that rivnut in place.

  36. #236
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    Oh you didn't have that tab rivnuted? I did that on mine back then and I think it gained 1/4 or so. It was mandatory to prevent from touching the top back of the grill. It also helps A LOT to prevent the bracket from moving, you don't want that.

    I also added a washer between the back tab and frame in order to have the top rivnuts more centered on the small 1/2 tube.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  37. #237
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Oh you didn't have that tab rivnuted? I did that on mine back then and I think it gained 1/4 or so. It was mandatory to prevent from touching the top back of the grill. It also helps A LOT to prevent the bracket from moving, you don't want that.

    I also added a washer between the back tab and frame in order to have the top rivnuts more centered on the small 1/2 tube.
    I didn't realise it was a mounting point or maybe I did??? I installed it over a year ago. But just got the hood on last week. Maybe I forgot to come back to finish it haha.

  38. #238
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    That's what happens when you leave things undone for too long or start something and move on to another thing which makes you move on to a 3rd thing, a 4th, 5th, etc. Then the 1st is never done cuz you can't remember what it was. lolll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

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