Redfogo's 818C build

[07FIREBLADE]

Lance,

Sorry for the miscommunication. I was referring more about the rear hatch hindge. Got the doors hung long time ago. Have a running road legal car. Just tearing it back apart to do the coupe retrofit. Which poppers are you using in your build though since your going that route. I've found most aftermarket poppers to break over time and not having any handles could make it a bit of a challenge to get the door open.

[lance corsi]

Lance,

Sorry for the miscommunication. I was referring more about the rear hatch hindge. Got the doors hung long time ago. Have a running road legal car. Just tearing it back apart to do the coupe retrofit. Which poppers are you using in your build though since your going that route. I've found most aftermarket poppers to break over time and not having any handles could make it a bit of a challenge to get the door open.

Sorry,should've read more of your thread before blurting out. My poppers are 35 lb solenoids. I'm adding an emergency pull for exactly that reason. I've managed to lock myself out of cars before! I will be using manual door opening handles on the interior of the doors for normal egress.

[Newkitguy]

I can post pics of the doors when I get home if you need it.

[redfogo]

Follow my blog here: http://redfogo.com/index.php/category/build-status/

As for my update for the forum:

Summery
-Seat Belt mounts & seat mounts have been installed.
-Rear suspension/ is installed and ready to rock.
-Transmission has been converted to 2WD.
-New 2006+ Ej25 oil pan installed with Killer B oil baffle and pickup.

-Updated my site pages with all guides for: Oil system set up, seat and harness belt set up, rear suspension, and 2WD conversion.

As always if you have a guide or tip or something you would like added to the wiki please let me know I will do my best to help!

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[redfogo]

Follow my blog here: http://redfogo.com/index.php/category/build-status/

As for my update for the forum:

1. Sorry my pictures aren't more fancy getting cought up in the moment of building, I forget to clean up the mess around me

Summery
-Seat Belt harness bar fixed and updated!
-Radiator installed.
-Throttle cable slack fixed.
-Master Cylinders,brake/clutch lines, proportion valve are all installed.
-Gas pedal mounted to the aluminum.

-Currently finishing up all the wiring. Planning to release full excel file/guide for making your own wiring harness that can run only the engine and all of its needs. This would be more of standalone wiring system to separate everything not needed to run the engine. Everything else would need to be its own system like an infinity box. Maybe it will help no one, maybe it will help someone! If anyone one has any specific things they would like in the guide I can see what I can do! I just found it to be easier and mess free to cut out all the OEM junk and wire just the Engine/ECU on its own system. All this is granted everything works right! So far looks like I will be in business!

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[redfogo]

For the radiator I found that It work best to trim the OEM pads on the top to be more flush and then bolt the mounting tabs at an angle to get the radiator to sit at a low angle.

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New harness bar mounting holes are much lower now and the harness bar now sets the seat belts at a perfect 0 to negative 5 deg angle. I ended up having to throw out the FFR harness bar. I cut the bar according to the instructions so that it would fit the FFR/OEM mounting holes. After realizing that the bar sat to high the damage was done and the bar just didn’t provide enough thread to be satisfied on my new mounting holes. I upgraded to a 1.25in harness bar since I needed a new one. Bigger bar should provide a little bit more surface area for the belts as well.

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[redfogo]

I ended up mounting the medal straight into the front aluminum panel. I my install a brace for the panel eventually however currently I see no need. If you have a heavy foot though it may be worth it!

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For some reason my throttle cable came without the throttle body end cylinder installed. I thought about calling FFR about it however after thinking about it I found that it was better to have it off this way I could install the cable properly as well as shorten the extra slack on the cable so the throttle would open fully and have no slack in the cable.

I broke the plastic stopper that went into the accelerator pedal when I tried to install it. I have read a few posts where people have broken it just while driving. To fix this problem I used a normal push in plastic tab normally used to mounting body parts like mudflaps etc as the guide. Then I put a nut between the ball and the pedal. This provides a nice strong hold that wont get warn out.

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For the throttle body end I found some DIY cable links at autozone. The kit comes with a few different sizes for different linkage size. All you need to do is feed your FFR cable through the hole cut the extra cable off and use the provided screw to hold the line in place. If your extra paranoid like me just throw some solder on the end of the wire to help hold it in place. The screw should be more then enough though. Set to how you like it I set mine with zero slack so pedal has no play in it. INSTANT POWER!!!!

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[ben1272]

Nice, thanks for the info. I am just about to do mine and this will be helpful.

I am curious how you routed the cable from pedal to the throttle? Also, how did you retain along the way (did you?)

-Ben

[ben1272]

I, for one, am looking forward to your wire harness info. I may pursue the same path and greatly appreciate the insight it will give a subie noob like me! Keep it coming!

-Ben

Follow my blog here: http://redfogo.com/index.php/category/build-status/

As for my update for the forum:

1. Sorry my pictures aren't more fancy getting cought up in the moment of building, I forget to clean up the mess around me

Summery
-Seat Belt harness bar fixed and updated!
-Radiator installed.
-Throttle cable slack fixed.
-Master Cylinders,brake/clutch lines, proportion valve are all installed.
-Gas pedal mounted to the aluminum.

-Currently finishing up all the wiring. Planning to release full excel file/guide for making your own wiring harness that can run only the engine and all of its needs. This would be more of standalone wiring system to separate everything not needed to run the engine. Everything else would need to be its own system like an infinity box. Maybe it will help no one, maybe it will help someone! If anyone one has any specific things they would like in the guide I can see what I can do! I just found it to be easier and mess free to cut out all the OEM junk and wire just the Engine/ECU on its own system. All this is granted everything works right! So far looks like I will be in business!

[redfogo]

Nice, thanks for the info. I am just about to do mine and this will be helpful.

I am curious how you routed the cable from pedal to the throttle? Also, how did you retain along the way (did you?)

-Ben

1. The cable is ran through the FFR hole shown in the instructions. Since mine had no throttle body end on it, it fit right through like the instructions tell you. Planning to go in more detail on my site when I get the chance to update that section.
2. I ran the cable through one of the shifter linkage grommets (Im using the MR2 shifter so those grommet wont be used) .
3. From the grommet it should just go down the center console and out the back and mount onto the OEM throttle cable mount.

If you need pictures or more details let me know and I can get those for you .

[redfogo]

Wiring guide has been made check it out here http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...143#post238143

Full update coming soon been very busy getting all the wiring documented read to rock and roll now!

[Frank818]

I'm late, but I might follow your pedal cable ball solution. Next winter, no time now I have more important builds to do. You slotted the nut? Are you using something to prevent it from getting out or the mudflap push-in is enough?

[redfogo]

I'm late, but I might follow your pedal cable ball solution. Next winter, no time now I have more important builds to do. You slotted the nut? Are you using something to prevent it from getting out or the mudflap push-in is enough?

No slot I just fed the line through the nut. I was missing the TB end so it was just a endless cable. I put a cable end on after I installed the nut. Nice and secure and can't pop out this way.

[Frank818]

You attached a cable end onto a cut cable? Do you have a pic of that?

[redfogo]

You attached a cable end onto a cut cable? Do you have a pic of that?

For the throttle body end I found some DIY cable links at autozone. The kit comes with a few different sizes for different linkage size. All you need to do is feed your FFR cable through the hole cut the extra cable off and use the provided screw to hold the line in place. If your extra paranoid like me just throw some solder on the end of the wire to help hold it in place. The screw should be more then enough though. Set to how you like it, I set mine with zero slack so pedal has no play in it. INSTANT POWER!!!!

I also was able to get my TB to open up 100% doing it this way. I know some guys had issued with it getting open fully because of how much slack FFR had put into the provided line.

[Frank818]

Stupid me, I couldn't see the pic cuz I was at work (blocked), it's just a few posts before on this page.

I see what type it is, could have worked when I needed to merge 2 endless cable ends together. But I doubt it's more secure than what I did, I mean it's probably the same, the ends are squeezed, straight.

[redfogo]

Here are a few pics of my harness I used fire proof sleeving for all my wires. Each main connector has its own sleeving so that I could manage the wires better. I find that having a large clump of wires just makes things harder to manage as well as diag if you ever have any problems. All my wires run into the center tunnel so that the ECU and other sensitive parts can be protected from heat and water.

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[redfogo]

Installed a duel catch can set up one for the crank case and one for the heads. I ran a saikou michi can set up really nice construction and I have heard nothing but great reviews on the build quality and the overall design of the can them self.

How it works

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Very affordable as well. http://www.saikoumichi.com/

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I used to provided bracket for install and installed the setup in the corner behind the driver seat.

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Red is for the heads and into the intake pipe the big black sleeved lines are the crank and intake manifold lines.
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[redfogo]

I also made my own intake using 2.5in aluminum pipe. This made for a great hard pipe that wont flex under boost as well as be easy to uninstall. I covered it in heat tape.

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I used a offset coupler to connect the turbo and the hard intake pipe together. The hose clamps are perfectly placed so that the intake is easy to remove unlike the OEM and some after market options. I did delete the BPV inlet since i have an aftermarket blitz BOV installed.

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Intake installed
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[redfogo]

Coolant expansion tank I used some axle brackets I had laying around to extend the tank out

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Fuel lines
I used all SS PTFE line for my fuel set up. They are all pressed/crimped lines. I just can't trust the DIY crimp line. Plus these are tested up to 1500psi.

I bent the OEM fuel hard lines from the engine 90deg very carefully.

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Earls E85 approved 10micron filter

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I did have to do some things to get the fuel filter and level to install right. My notes can be found here http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-install-them

I made sure to run the lines to the tank so that they would not rub or touch any wire or other line. I also used the 2nd largest fuel pump assembly line as the fuel return and and the smaller one as a vent going to the ground. I don't have much of a fuel smell. But maybe i'm just used to it since many of my cars have run "free" from any emissions canisters

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I have an Ej207 so the heater core line is not very close so I made a hard line to connect the to heater lines together
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[mikeb75]

Build is looking great, fantastic attention to detail!

Quick question/note: did you verify your upper coolant tank holds pressure? The (old) metal ones can develop cracks along the radiator cap flange... ask me how I know

[redfogo]

Build is looking great, fantastic attention to detail!

Quick question/note: did you verify your upper coolant tank holds pressure? The (old) metal ones can develop cracks along the radiator cap flange... ask me how I know

Yep I did, I pressurized before I put in coolant. No seal issues. It's a JDM STI motor not sure if they are any different or not.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Great job Red.
Especially the wiring. I can tell you have many hours into it.
Bob

[redfogo]

I have never been a fan of the OEM intercooler since it sits above the intercooler with no fans and no heat shield to protect it. I am currently making my fan shroud but I will be using 2 7.5in spal puller fans. So about 1000CFM being pulled through the intercooler at all time . I am using a 7in thick intercooler core that 20in wide. It fits perfect for a coupe. I made a Heat shield and I rotated my turbo. I have a Vf30 so I had to reseal the turbo housing with RTV after I removed the old gasket.

Heat shield is air ducting covered in Lava wrap.

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Intercooler
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Not much RTV is required to reseal the turbo. I used High temp copper RTV. Clean the surface very well.
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[ssssly]

Make sure you tune that MAF with stock injectors. And if you are running a JDM ECU, you do not want to push more than a couple psi of boost on Nebraska low octane gas. The timing maps are way too advanced.

If you need a hand tuning it once you get it up and running give me a call.

[redfogo]

As I am sure a lot have probably noticed I am not the most orderly builder. My garage is always a mess its my weakness, but I seem to be able to find everything I need when its not put away lol. Anyways here is a video of the car currently running. Not ready to be set down just yet but close .


I am going to be running a duel exhaust set up so right now all I have is my resonator installed. Once I get my bumper cut up I will start my exhaust build. I enjoy the sound as it is now so I will only be adding in piping no other mufflers and/or cats.

Oh yeah wheels are also on

Wheels are also on XXR 530s 17x7 front and 18x8.75 rear and of course my bambi brakes x)

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[mikeb75]

Fantastic job on the intercooler! Congrats on the first start.

[Hindsight]

Nice! Big congrats on the first start.

[taco20]

I also made my own intake using 2.5in aluminum pipe. This made for a great hard pipe that wont flex under boost as well as be easy to uninstall. I covered it in heat tape.



I used a offset coupler to connect the turbo and the hard intake pipe together. The hose clamps are perfectly placed so that the intake is easy to remove unlike the OEM and some after market options. I did delete the BPV inlet since i have an aftermarket blitz BOV installed.





Intake installed

Hey nice intake setup. I did something very similar with mine. Wanted to give you a heads up that the filter location is in a bad spot. I had mine in the same spot and without the body it gets great air but once the body goes on it gets no outside air just hot engine air and makes IAT temps run real hot. Might want to plan on moving it closer to the vent in front of the tire to get some fresh air. Easy to plan ahead now because everything gets tight once the body is on.

[redfogo]

Thanks I will take a look at a better spot after I get my body panels our for testing

[Samiam1017]

who makes the offset coupler you used to make your intake system

[redfogo]

who makes the offset coupler you used to make your intake system

Its a HPS offset coupler 2.25" > 2.5" ID. They are a little pricey($27) but still cheaper then buying a name brand inlet pipe.

http://www.amazon.com/HPS-HTSOR-225-...ilpage_o00_s00

[Frank818]

That sound is amazing!

That IC is THICK!

[redfogo]

That sound is amazing!

That IC is THICK!

Took a while to find the right resonator that gave the right sound. IC is an after market IC for a BMW.

[redfogo]

Upgraded my motor and trans mounts last night with Cusco mounts and its made a significant difference in engine placement and movement. With the oem Mounts the main coolant feed pipe was very close to the frame almost rubbing on it! I could shake the engine left and right with my hands from the transmission mount location!

With the new mounts the whole assembly is rock solid the engine sits up more as well. The OEM mounts seem to let the engine slant down(downward like this--> \) since there is no real front mount. The cuscos seem to be more solid and help hold the wait of the front of the engine evening out so it sites more even(like this --> --). My coolant lines are now further away from the frame and no longer able to come close to rubbing on the frame! yay

The Cusco mounts I'm sure will shake the car a bit more then OEM mounts but still wont be as bad as a solid mount since they still have very very very hard rubber to help a "bit". Since I'm still on block I can't assess the shake just yet.

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(Don't worry about the car parts bench you see in the background. Its the post kit car 280z project. The car will need a new paint job so don't worry no nice cars were damaged for this image.)

[Hindsight]

I have those mounts and dont find the vibration to be bad at all. I really like them too.

[redfogo]

I started having high idle issues. I found that my IACV was stuck open. After reading I found this is very common issue with subarus. And I assume since the motor has been sitting for a while the carbon build up just kinda locked things up. I found this guide very helpful. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1704762

[redfogo]

Today I got my sound deadening/ heat shielding installed. I used hush mat as it seemed to be an affordable good quality product and helps with both heat and sound. I put a pad both on the inside of the firewall and on outside of the firewall.

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Shifter is using the MR2 shifter I may do some changes with it in the future but for now the current configuration works for how I would like it.

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My FR-S center console is starting to fall into place how I want it. Current set up with the car has a nice cockpit feel with the arm rest/ shifter above the waist. This is still a bit ruff I look forward to the finish product when I have it all set up.

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[07FIREBLADE]

Where's your ebrake going?

[snowphun]

Nice work with the FRS center console, that should look really sharp.