Are you guys ready for another build thread?
I'm ready for the build, not so sure about the thread, but what the heck, I'll try.
My frame is supposed to arrive this Friday, after what seems like forever. I have pics of my engine, which has been complete for quite some time, but have no idea how to upload & post them. I have an 8.8" center section out of a wrecked 2015 mustang gt, and I just ordered my tko600,clutch, throwout bearing, & bell housing a few minutes ago from summit.
I have built a 351 cleveland with 6.2 inch rods, 10.83 to 1 compression using SRP forged pistons, and total seal gapless top rings.
On top, there's CHI 3V185 cylinder heads with a matching single plane intake. They were very expensive. I decided to use them because almost every engine masters challenge winner who ran a cleveland based engine used those heads.
The cam is a Howards hydraulic roller, .597" intake lift, .601" exhaust lift with 233 & 241 degrees duration at .050" lift with 112 degree LSA.
I also used Callies coated main & cam bearings, a main girdle, ARP studs throughout, & plan to use MSD Atomic injection (not yet purchased).
A dyno sim program estimated 536 HP at 7300 RPM. I'm skeptical. My guess is around 425 & I'm not likely going to wind it quite that tight.
Anyway, if any of you kind gentlemen would care to tell me how to post pictures, I will gladly do that.
I guess I could enlist my computer savvy step son to help me there, if I can get him away from his wife, kids & job long enough.
I ordered only the stage 1 kit so far, because my garage is too full of cars that my wife doesn't want outside. I'll have about 26 by 15 feet of space to work with,
so my plan is to get the frame done first, then the body later. Thanks, guys!
Sounds like a very nice combination because we all know that a good set of heads really will make or break any engine's power output...For my set up I was hoping to make between 383-400 ponies and we easily bested those numbers because of the head, came and intake that I'm running so I'm sure you will too.
We pulled well over 450 with the timing set at 10 initial maxing at 30-31 total...Bumping the timing to 13 initial 33-34 total pushed the HP number up to 495-497...Our specs are similar from compression, cam, and intake perspective, but I've got a couple of extra cubes...With that said I think you'll be making between 425-475 depending on how high you spin the sucker...Like you, I'm not pushing the RPM's over the moon so I won't push the rev-limiter much past 6,000 RPM even though it kept pulling up to 6,500.
My suggestion would be to get NAZ to run your numbers because he nailed mine within 5% compared to the actual dyno...He's got a heck of a system that he uses.
Frame & boxes of parts showed up this morning. Going through the boxes, the list of parts, etc. & found the rear suspension arms. That's when I realized that the frame I got did not come with any place to mount my IRS. Wow am I thrilled! Guess I'll be calling tech support Monday morning. Oh well. I sanded & painted the front control arms & such.
I found this epoxy paint in a can made by VHT. It matches the frame powder coating pretty well.
Got my Tremec TKO 600, a Tilton concentric clutch slave cylinder, and a Ford Motorsport aluminum bell housing yesterday. I checked the bore concentricity of the housing with a
dial indicator and it's a little off. Like 10 thousandths in one direction. Ordered some offset block dowels from Summit to correct that.
I was going to get the floor in, I have the frame resting on its top so that drilling the holes is easier, but since I got the wrong frame I won't be doing that. Hope I don't have to wait three more months to get the right frame.
Sounds like a great build!!! The Cleveland is a serious power maker, I saw a test on a Cleveland with 4v cast iron closed chamber heads that made low 500 hp. I look forward to watching your build come together!!! Will you build custom headers?
Custom Headers were one of the first things I had decided to do. Since the heads have raised exhaust runners with a different port profile I knew that off the shelf headers would not work as well as I'd like, plus there a little hard to find for a cleveland. Plus I want stainless. I'll probably order the tubing & collectors from Stainless Headers, But they don't offer a port plate for my heads. I have a buddy with a cnc plasma table that will cut them out for me if I provide him a template. I've never tig welded before, but things like that seem to come easy for me & I'm going to do it. Watched a lot of videos, so at least I know about back purging, cup selection, electrode profile before I start. And a lot of practice first. Oh, and I almost forgot. They're going to be 180 degree headers, too. So the center cylinder tubes will cross under the rear of the oil pan to join the end tubes on the opposite side. Sounds like fun, right?
You have IT. I built my headers for turbos and is a lot of work, but the only way to get them to fit. As in my build with sides and full fenders , no room- no room. The best part is you have a one-off part!! Now get to work!!
The Stewart driver who left my (incorrect) frame had gone to Florida as soon as he left my house. When I called FF Monday morning, they must have got right on it. The driver called me soon after, he was near Atlanta, & arranged to pick up the frame for return. Matt at FF called me, apologized for the mistake, and said that they would be loading a new frame with IRS on the 13th. Now wait......... It's a good thing I'm not as impatient as I was in my youth! (At least there IS a bright side to aging). But I've been working on the rear spindles, fuel tank, and getting my clutch housing dialed in and trans put on the engine. Going to load pics soon. BE SAFE, ALL
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Ok, so I managed to upload this one photo. Had to do it on my iPhone because PC wouldn’t load photos from it.
It’s a start
Wanted to load more than one for the page, but every time I selected the second photo, it would replace the first. Also I keep double tapping the space bar on my PC for periods (too used to iphone). It is much smarter than I am.
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ATTACH=CONFIG]136127[/ATTACH]IMG_0591.jpgIMG_0292.jpg
Finally got some pics from my phone to my PC. The one with the dial in it is my vertical oil clearance on the main bearings. Really just trying to get better at these posts, so please bear with me!
Since I had originally only ordered the stage 1 kit, and my wife heard how much the shipping costs, and we would have to pay again for the stage 2 kit, AND the first frame wasn't built for IRS, AND FFR was going to have to ship the correct frame anyway, We decided to just buy the complete kit and get that out of the way. The only reason for buying only the stage one at the time was room to store the body and fenders and top. We've had offers from family to use their available space.
So during this confusion, I was told that the new frame would ship the 13th. Having heard nothing by the 16th, I emailed for an update. The reply I got was the boxes were packed and the body was out back. So it's wait some more. Maybe the decision to upgrade slowed everything down.
I had bought a wrecked 2015 Mustang sans engine & trans a couple of years ago, paid $500 for it just for the IRS. Thought I might use the front brakes. They're HUGE. Mocked up the assembly with the spindles & designed an adaptor that would bolt up to the spindle & the caliper & still miss the tie rod ends. I was proud of my accomplishment & had discussed having a prototype cut when I decided to fit it into the 17" wheel I'm using up front. Oops. no fit. Too big.
The rear brakes off of the same car will fit in the rear wheels, being slightly smaller, & the wheels being 18", but then the front brakes look microscopic in comparison.
When you see those cars with huge wheels & stock brakes it looks ludicrous. Trying to stay away from that look & my wheels are very open (5 spoke). I've been shopping Rock Auto for larger discs that share the same backset & thickness. I'll have to modify the caliper mounting but I don't see a problem there.
Finally got my kit on Wednesday morning. I've had three nights to work on it! It sure feels good to get this project properly underway. I've only had to remove the steering rack four times! Guess I got too excited. Used the wrong holes the first time, then had to remove it to put the lower control arm bolt in, then noticed I had the pivot link in backwards & had to remove it again. My granddaughter went in the house & told my wife "Pawpaw has to take that dam car apart again!" (She's six.)
Installed the diff today, & ran into an issue that I've seen others on this forum have also dealt with. HARD to get the bolts through the mounts & bushings. Looks like the mounts are about 3/16" too close together. After trying to pry the diff over against the pressure of those bushings and not having any luck, I just pulled the outer bushing out, then the sleeve, put the sleeve & bushing on the bolt, & pushed the works into the mount & remaining bushing. The bolt is long enough to start through the rear hole before getting tight, then with a little grease & a dead blow mallet it goes in.
I've been very busy on the car. Got the engine in Thursday evening.IMG_0918.jpg I've spent every evening after I get home from work working on it at least three hours.
Interesting thing I learned is that the Mustang donor driveshaft, or at least the rear half of it, fit in the car with only one modification. I had to drill through the slip joint and roll pin the front yoke so it wouldn't slide in or out from where I wanted itIMG_0932.jpg If you look you can see the roll pin in a shallow groove that was being used to hold the rubber boot in place. The reason for pinning it is so that the trans yoke and the driveshaft yoke wouldn't team up to pull either one out.
I didn't get the flange adapter that bolts to the diff pinion flange, so I figured I would just change the pinion yoke to one that has a ujoint flange.
Turns out that when Ford redesigned the 8.8 for IRS they changed a few things to make it tougher, and now the pinion spline count is 31 instead of 30. So I was unable to find a yoke like I wanted. Desperate times call for desperate measures, so I grabbed the old driveshaft I had kept & figured I would see how much it had to be cut, or if it would need retubing to make it longer. To my surprise, I found that, because it had a slide coupling in it, I could pull the boot off and position the spline shaft so that I was happy with the fit.
Also got all the suspension in & most of the aluminum inIMG_0886.jpg
Another thing I did was move the pedals further back. I had set the seat in to see how the legroom, etc. was and didn't like how far forward the pedals felt. Had to cut the pedal box a little & drill some new holes.IMG_0912.jpg
The tab for the front flex hoses will probably interfere with the hood sides, but I'll worry about that later. This way the hoses don't touch anything lock to lock or up & down.
I didn't use some of the lines in the length they came. I bent & routed them & cut them to length so they didn't have any loops or excess . I used a double flaring die on the ends I cut.
You may notice that I put the union right in the pass through in the frame. my thinking is it's a lot thicker than the tubing and if it rubs a little it will take a long time to wear through.
I probably have 6 feet of tubing I didn't use, but I used all the tubing nuts.
Didn't load any pix of the rear. Oversight on my part. It's all done though. This took 3 nights to complete and am I glad! I'm ready to move on to something else.
Don't have the two lower firewall pieces yet, so I can't finish the steer shaft or mount the fluid reservoirs.
I made some seat mounts that are 3 inches higher in the front so I can have my knees higher while driving. The seat being level just didn't feel right in relation to the pedals.
I work on forklifts for a living now, and one thing we replace a lot of is seats, so I got some slide adjuster so my wife can move the seat forward if she wants to drive.
She's kind of a hot rodder too. One of her cars is a twin turbo v8 BMW. Bet mine will be quicker HAH!
The tab for the front flex hoses will probably interfere with the hood sides, but I'll worry about that later.
She's kind of a hot rodder too. One of her cars is a twin turbo v8 BMW. Bet mine will be quicker HAH!
I mounted the flex hoses the same as you, yup they were too high. Had to make longer mounting plates so the hoses would clear the side panel openings.
That twin turbo V8 is pretty quick but your ‘33 is almost 1/2 the weight. No turbos on mine, just a dual stage N2O setup.
Last edited by JimLev; 11-06-2020 at 09:20 PM.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
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Originally Posted by junglejim
