Front end alignment

[durk]

Yesterday while getting my car aligned I was told that the turnbuckles on the rear upper control arms were too blocking and also to long as they need to be shortened so as to get the 7 degrees of positive caster. I was able to get about 3 degrees of caster before it started to change the camber. I have removed the rear uca's so that I can take them to the machine shop. The 3 degrees that I did get helped the steering feel less darty at speed. was just wondering if any one else has had this problem.

[Jeff Kleiner]

With the angled ball joint UCAs this is typical when going for more positive caster. In addition to shortening the rear sleeves you may also need to cut back the male threaded stubs so that they don't bottom out inside the adjusters.


Jeff

[durk]

I am planning on cutting both left hand threaded bolts about 1/2"

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Quick extra alignment question. Would a less than 1/2 increase in ride height require a fresh alignment?

[skullandbones]

In other similar discussions, I've seen that several changed lengths of both adjustable arms on the UCAs to attain the added castor. I did. I don't remember exactly the lengths and part numbers although I do have them in my paper work. I could not get the 6 degree positive castor on my front end and 1 degree negative camber without the change in both arms. I think I also had to cut about 1/2 inch off one of the arms to get that perfect location for the upper ball joint. The guy who did my alignment was not particularly happy with me about the added castor but I persisted. It was well worth the hassle. I drove it today and still love the way it enters the curves so well.

Good luck,

WEK.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Kevin,
No, the change will be inconsequential.

Jeff

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Thanks Jeff. Trying to dodge some speed bump bottom dings. Have all the local parking lots plotted for speed bump drive arounds

[TommyB]

Yesterday while getting my car aligned I was told that the turnbuckles on the rear upper control arms were too blocking and also to long as they need to be shortened so as to get the 7 degrees of positive caster. I was able to get about 3 degrees of caster before it started to change the camber. I have removed the rear uca's so that I can take them to the machine shop. The 3 degrees that I did get helped the steering feel less darty at speed. was just wondering if any one else has had this problem.

I ran into the same problem while aligning mine. Had to shorten the rear arms 1/2"and trim the rod end threads. The front arms are extended out as far as safely possible, leaving just over 1" thread engagement. I may throw on some longer ones when i remove the body to do the final body work.
Cheers
Tom

[PaulW]

I ran into the same problem while aligning mine. Had to shorten the rear arms 1/2"and trim the rod end threads. The front arms are extended out as far as safely possible, leaving just over 1" thread engagement. I may throw on some longer ones when i remove the body to do the final body work.
Cheers
Tom

So now I am a bit concerned. I took my car in for alignment a few weeks ago and wanted 7 degrees (power steering). They set it up and mentioned nothing. So I am now a bit concerned that they just over-extended the front arms. I do have the angled ball joints. As a side note they never did give me a printout of the alignment.

[CraigS]

PaulW, in general it would help if you put some car details in your signature line. What Mk you have would help answering your question since we would be better able to figure what UCAs you have. They have been changed several times over the years. The old MkII gold steel sleeve UCAs look like this when disassembled. And I 'think' these pieces are similar, if not identical, for the newer versions even though ther sleeves have changed.

[GoDadGo]

Hey Gang,

Regarding the alignment of the Front End.
Since I'm using a manual rack with less caster, can I assume that I'll be A-Okay?
The drive train is about to go in and I plan to bring it for an alignment while still in the Go-Kart stage.
Of course I'll make sure to keep the ride height in tact by throwing a sand bag or two so that the ride height remains the same with the body removed.

Steve >> aka: GoDadGo

[skullandbones]

You will be just fine with the manual's recommendations for standard front end alignment.

WEK.

[mikeinatlanta]

As a general note. Even when doing standard build, this is still a custom car with endless possible variables. You should always verify things like thread engagement, full suspension travel without bind, and that all fittings are taking lube properly. Regarding thread engagement on the A arms: You should measure, mark, and record where you have minimum engagement for each fitting upon initial assembly, and verify those measurements upon alignment. You should also verify full travel without bind both before and after alignment.