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Thread: Complete wiring plans for 818S - 2002 EZ30 factory

  1. #1

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    Complete wiring plans for 818S - 2002 EZ30 factory

    11/6/2019 updated drawings and info.

    So here is the wiring plan I have put together for my 818S turned C for a JDM '02 EZ30 motor, manual trans, after market heater, etc. As frankensteins go this is in that club. I didn't go with a donor and parts are just coming from wherever I can turn them up. Using mostly donor connectors and components, but generally this is wire it from scratch.

    Just a few things might get explained in my build - see 'Art's 818'

    I'm posting this for a couple reasons. I've put a lot of work into this and maybe someone else can make use of it. There are some great plans and guides out there now. I like everything I've seen. But I've always had "my way" of doing things and this is another example. For another thing, it is for a H6-3.0, 2002 vintage, so that hasn't been posted at this detail level that I can find in the forum. Everyone has talked/used aftermarket ECM's for the H6's, but my initial go around is planned around the factory's brain. If you look past the ECM specifics and 2 more cylinders, there is an awful lot here that would work for most any other build. So for those who either are stingy or just like old sticky tape residue, sorting wiring, grungy connectors, and all the rest that goes with doing your own electrics, take a look.

    Once you compare this drawing set to the factory prints, you will see it essentially distills the system down to just the pieces in use (for my project at least). By keeping the factory format, you can reference, locate, troubleshoot, etc., using this drawing for easy tracing but also use the factory documents for validation and any other deeper needs the factory's documents can provide.

    Oddities? Not many - I'm using a relay circuit to handle the auto to manual trans snafu that causes idle/die problems when coming to a stop (should fix it but that's a "we'll see" thing). The combination meter (dashboard) is a 2001-2002 model. The 2002 specific Legacy-Outback 3.0 sections in the manual calls out a completely different wiring scheme, even a different physical connector configuration. My print matches a 2001 H6 engine supplement document, so my drawing specifically indicates the part number matching my particular meter.

    Other things for example - I've got a probably '96 Forester light dimmer module. Wire colors are different, but wiring is actually the same and I bench tested it - works fine with the '02 dimmer knob on the steering column I scrounged up. ECM's - are very different for the 3.0 between 01, 02, 03. I have an 02 from LL Bean (will use it), and another '03 ECM from another LL Bean (pinout very different .... ebae probably). The 'lego concept with these cars is really fun.

    This is created in bit-map, using MS Paint, which may seem crude but I've used it as well as various CAD programs over the years and for this sort of thing I can fly through it very fast and it is so easy to change things that I still use it often. And anyone can mod it without any special software tools of some sort. I claim NO copyrights - use as you will. Granted I used pix from Subbie's docs but only snips - I have a hard time thinking anyone would get all bent up over it.

    The drawings tie everything together by referencing the pages to each other by the Wxx values. Look at a couple sheets and you catch on easy enough. And yes, for a few minutes the Subaru wiring prints seem confusing, but after a bit of tracing they really make decent sense (and I've pretty much seen it all from German to Japanese to old school and the latest in schematics and wiring documents). Next, everything is referenced back to 2002 (sorry but that is my needs here) Subaru Legacy/Outback service manual wiring. This does two things, if not more: you can verify/validate any wiring plan against trusted material and it gives you a source for changing/adding things to the wiring using pre-built symbols and equipment. For that matter, a service tech could work with the drawings and not be learning another drawing/engineering format.

    All the connectors, for example, are referenced with the factory connector end view drawings as wll. Connectors are referenced to the original connectors, pinouts, color codes, etc. There are a few Deutsch and some Weatherpac connectors too.

    By the way, I've triple checked, if not more, all this, but I'm just barely enough of not a total fool to know that I have to have mistakes hiding in there. Use at your own risk and check everything for yourself.
    Last edited by aquillen; 11-06-2019 at 10:52 AM.

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    Last edited by aquillen; 11-06-2019 at 10:39 AM.

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    Last edited by aquillen; 11-06-2019 at 10:45 AM.

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    Last edited by aquillen; 11-06-2019 at 10:47 AM.

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    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Bravo, I'm not building an H6 but do applaud you for documenting all of this.

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    Senior Member UnhipPopano's Avatar
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    The drawings indicate that you plan on using the door switches. What are your thoughts on where to mount the switches and the running of the wiring?

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by UnhipPopano View Post
    The drawings indicate that you plan on using the door switches. What are your thoughts on where to mount the switches and the running of the wiring?
    The real answer is I don't know yet. But musing...

    Sometimes I do while I think (usually first I do then think "oops.. do-do" and finally it's "re-do"). That is where this one is probably going to go. I pick up the kit in July and won't go after this peice until then since I need to visualize in person. I'm guessing though this may call for water tight switches (I didn't grab any from my visits to yards as yet), and some imagination on mounting. I like magnetic/reed switch setups sometimes as they are durable, small, but the current draw to lamps might be on the edge for them. Wiring I'd prefer to hide of course and would always go for putting it out of kicking and other nuisance locations. Hiding wire under carpet is ok if (1) won't get munched over time by foot pressure, etc., (2) accessible without going crazy. I'm usually pretty finicky about routing wiring and harnesses, cables and all that stuff so it looks neat and tidy.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Solidworks-Mike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aquillen View Post
    The real answer is I don't know yet. But musing...

    Sometimes I do while I think (usually first I do then think "oops.. do-do" and finally it's "re-do"). That is where this one is probably going to go. I pick up the kit in July and won't go after this peice until then since I need to visualize in person. I'm guessing though this may call for water tight switches (I didn't grab any from my visits to yards as yet), and some imagination on mounting. I like magnetic/reed switch setups sometimes as they are durable, small, but the current draw to lamps might be on the edge for them. Wiring I'd prefer to hide of course and would always go for putting it out of kicking and other nuisance locations. Hiding wire under carpet is ok if (1) won't get munched over time by foot pressure, etc., (2) accessible without going crazy. I'm usually pretty finicky about routing wiring and harnesses, cables and all that stuff so it looks neat and tidy.
    Switches are pretty cheap brand new:

    http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ct_switch.html
    818-S 2.5L Turbo Chassis Number: 404
    Kit Order Date: February 19, 2016 Kit Completion Date: March 19, 2016 Kit Ship Date: March 26, 2016 Build Start Date: April 22, 2016
    Build Thread: Click Here

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    Quote Originally Posted by Solidworks-Mike View Post
    Switches are pretty cheap brand new:

    http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ct_switch.html
    Thanks - I put those on my radar list.

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