Silicon Prairie 818s Build

[mrbiglar]

Great weekend working on the car.

All the brake lines and clutch line run. Using Mike E's, Clutch kit...great set up. Just need to clamp down
http://i.imgur.com/H12OmrJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0387YhN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/EyI0kZu.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ebVwiIP.jpg

Front end and Yonaka Radiator mounted as well
http://i.imgur.com/UwOwY97.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/WV0dN7j.jpg

Did anyone have any thoughts on my fuel damper question above?

[Hindsight]

Put in Perrin Fuel Rails...Question. I didn't see anything in the FFR Manual about re-using the Fuel Pressure Regulator Damper? I thought on the Subaru fuel system you needed both the regulator and damper in the system?

You don't really need the dampener. I don't have one and had no issues on the dyno or otherwise. Some of the fuel rails are tapped to allow you to add aftermarket dampeners directly to each rail, which is really the best way to do it, but from what I know, you don't need to worry about that unless you are running big injectors and burning a lot of fuel.

[STiPWRD]

The damper is meant to soften fuel flow under heavy loads (spikes in pressure) so the best place to put it is near the fuel rails as Hindsight mentioned. I connected mine in-line between the fuel filter and fuel rails. I don't know how necessary it is but figured I might as well have it, maybe it depends on your particular fuel setup. I'm running an aeromotive 340 pump, boomba fuel rails and modded top feed 824cc injectors.

[mrbiglar]

I'm running a Wahlbro 255LPH fuel pump and Bosch 900cc injectors. I have the space between the filter and the rails, so mind as well use. Thanks to both of you for responding.

[mrbiglar]

Have not had a chance to post in awhile. Kids are hitting their busy time with sports, etc.

Finished out running the brake and radiator lines. Decided to put heat shielding on the line that runs near the stainless exhaust, just to be safe. Not sure I like how close the radiator line runs to the steering column...will need to go back for that later

http://i.imgur.com/pg37i4u.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/6QeZ0Uz.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1jMgUMf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/bPe4XDs.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/lH8smZJ.jpg

I had been avoiding Engine Hose He$$, but decided I couldn't avoid any longer since I needed to put the AWIC kit in. So after half a day, a few runs to the hardware story, and a few choices words, I was able to complete. Decided to go with a Mishimoto expansion tank in the front for the radiators, and ran an ebay special in the back for the engine coolant tank and AWIC overflow. Installed a Catch Can and finished all of the vacuum hoses

http://i.imgur.com/WHGwF5l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/pycSdf8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/o7kt5DJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/aURcelC.jpg

Am also done installing the Zero DB AWIC kit. The silicone hose was a little tight on the drivers side, but I don't see anywhere it is compressed...good thing I am running the MR2 shifter down the tunnel and back.

http://i.imgur.com/dNDZ8qO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7GB2pka.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yPuKbZF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1aNyZzB.jpg

[mrbiglar]

Hey...does anyone know where this vacuum hose goes off of the driver side TGV? Am going to TGV delete later, say after I have an inspection :-)

http://i.imgur.com/dyrWDu2.jpg

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey...does anyone know where this vacuum? hose goes off of the driver side TGV? Am going to TGV delete later, say after I have an inspection :-)

http://i.imgur.com/dyrWDu2.jpg

I believe that is the crossover vent that goes to the bigger port on top of the left side valve cover.
Bob

[mrbiglar]

Sorry...been awhile since I posted any progress. Been heads down

Have things to the go cart stage and took her out for a spin. Amazing feeling. I think I have some piston slap going on, but other than that, things went great.

Decided to go with the MR2 Shifter concept some others on the forum did. Complemented this with the Zero DB shifter setup. Very impressed. Craig does great work!
http://imgur.com/dOQ5pl6
http://i.imgur.com/nvnRhpq.jpg

Here are some shots yesterday before I took her out for a first spin
http://i.imgur.com/RYyMDAK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CwBp3BK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0sZcoYo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Lglm8VJ.jpg

Here is the video of my first drive. Awesome experience...although it sounds like I have some piston slap to deal with.
https://youtu.be/FTS3bhJ-MKc

[redfogo]

Looking great!!! P.S. i think you might want to flip your front wheels around

[STiPWRD]

Congrats on getting to go cart stage!

[Frank818]

Great looks!

Did you go with the front tires reversed on purpose?

BTW awesome tires, I have the same ones, I think they are the best all around for street.

[mrbiglar]

ummm...no. Good catch. Was so focused on everything else I didn't pay attention to how I put them on :-)

[Frank818]

ummm...no. Good catch. Was so focused on everything else I didn't pay attention to how I put them on :-)

HAHAHAH! Now that's really funny, cuz the thread pattern is so obvious and yet you managed to skip it.

[wirenut]

What tires are those?

[Frank818]

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....N+Neova+AD08+R

[mrbiglar]

Could use help from the group. When engine gets up to temp, only one of the two fans kick in. I know the second fan (passenger side) is good and wired properly because 1) when I went into test mode to reflash it would turn off and on. 2) It kicks in for a second or two on a hot start. Watching the AP in Gauge mode, Fan Switch #1 shows on, but #2 never flips to on.

Do you need to hit a certain temp for both to turn on vs. one? What am I forgetting?

[redfogo]

Put the green connectors together and see if they both turn on. If they don't then you have to start tracing wires see why it's not getting any power or signal.

[idf]

Could use help from the group. When engine gets up to temp, only one of the two fans kick in. I know the second fan (passenger side) is good and wired properly because 1) when I went into test mode to reflash it would turn off and on. 2) It kicks in for a second or two on a hot start. Watching the AP in Gauge mode, Fan Switch #1 shows on, but #2 never flips to on.

Do you need to hit a certain temp for both to turn on vs. one? What am I forgetting?

I'm fairly certain that in the original application the second fan only comes on when the AC is on. You could probably rewire it such that both come on when the driver's side fan is triggered. For what is is worth, my car cooled adequately this summer with ambient temps over 100 with just a single fan.

[walt555]

I'm fairly certain that in the original application the second fan only comes on when the AC is on. You could probably rewire it such that both come on when the driver's side fan is triggered. For what is is worth, my car cooled adequately this summer with ambient temps over 100 with just a single fan.

Great thanks that's a cool weight savings tip. Closing off the second fan will make the single that much more efficient too.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Different years have different functionality.
In 06 WRX when the ecu commanded low speed the two fans were hooked in series but the relays. So you effectively get 6 volt on each fan.
In high speed the relays put 12 volts on each fan.

Here are the rules for 06 wrx

[mrbiglar]

2nd fan works. forgot about for AC engaged. will likely wire together

[mrbiglar]

Could use some help from the group. Trying to finish up my go cart stage and confirming main elements of the mechanicals are good to go.

For some reason I can't get rid of a P1507 (Idle Control System Malfunction Fail Safe) error. I can clear the code, but after about 2-5 minutes of idle on a cold start it comes back. The engine is idling high ~1800-2000 rpm. It is a steady idle and not jumping up and down. Once the code kicks in, idle drops to about 1000 rpm and sound somewhat rough.

Here is what I have done\tried so far:
- Cleaned the IACV and throttle body
- Replaced the IACV with OEM part
- Checked the neutral switch....all good
- Confirmed throttle cable not too tight.
- Can't find any vacuum leaks and PCV seems fine. Removed catch can, just to be safe as well

Thoughts...I am stumped

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Could use some help from the group. Trying to finish up my go cart stage and confirming main elements of the mechanicals are good to go.

For some reason I can't get rid of a P1507 (Idle Control System Malfunction Fail Safe) error. I can clear the code, but after about 2-5 minutes of idle on a cold start it comes back. The engine is idling high ~1800-2000 rpm. It is a steady idle and not jumping up and down. Once the code kicks in, idle drops to about 1000 rpm and sound somewhat rough.

Here is what I have done\tried so far:
- Cleaned the IACV and throttle body
- Replaced the IACV with OEM part
- Checked the neutral switch....all good
- Confirmed throttle cable not too tight.
- Can't find any vacuum leaks and PCV seems fine. Removed catch can, just to be safe as well

Thoughts...I am stumped

It sounds to me like the IAC can't control the engine because of a vacuum leak post throttle body.
Maybe you missed capping on of the vacuum ports.Here is a list that I can think of. May not be named correctly. but there are 5 port on my intake manifold.
1. Brake booster port.
2. Evap system port
3 Purge port
4. Fuel regulator port
5. PCV port

Have you tested your fuel pressure? Should be around 43 psi.

Is this a know good engine when you started?
Bob



.

[mrbiglar]

Known good engine. It is a hybrid rebuild with <50 miles on it.

Double checked the vacuum ports all good

Good idea on the fuel pressure test...Will go there next.

[mrbiglar]

Fuel pressure is good. Any chance the issue could be because it is an aftermarket throttle with a larger opening? Gasket and other elements fit fine, and I don't see any leak areas. Coolant ports are plugged. I let the tuner know about the larger throttle intake and he said he compensated for it.....

Running out of ideas....

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Fuel pressure is good. Any chance the issue could be because it is an aftermarket throttle with a larger opening? Gasket and other elements fit fine, and I don't see any leak areas. Coolant ports are plugged. I let the tuner know about the larger throttle intake and he said he compensated for it.....

Running out of ideas....

I read that a non working neutral switch can cause a P1507. Worth a look.
Bob

[mrbiglar]

Neutral Switch is good. checked it with a Multimeter, and tried a replacement just to be safe......bummer

[AZPete]

I'm hesitant to comment here because Bob is much better at this than I am, but it's sounding like my problem that ended up being a vacuum leak that I found with a smoke test.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...at-caused-this

[mrbiglar]

smoke test is a good idea. Will give it a try just to be sure

[mrbiglar]

Ran the smoke test. Looks like I have a leak around the throttle sensor? That's a new one....thanks for the smoke test tip!

[Frank818]

A leak around the throttle sensor?

[mrbiglar]

I thought same, but triple checked smoke is coming out around the seal of the TPS??

[mrbiglar]

can an aftermarket throttle body cause a P1507? All the sensors fit well...checking the TPS per above, but rest look good. Intake is larger....

One other interesting tidbit of info. There is a slight hesitation and almost a "miss" when you first touch the accelerator. You have to move the throttle wider open and then it is fine. Thought maybe tied to TPS? Log looks good in that it shows progression on sensor as you increase RPM's

[STiPWRD]

Is your TPS sensor oem or aftermarket? Also, did you check if the sensor is reading the throttle pedal accurately? This can be done with the motor not running but ignition in the on position - just press the pedal and see what the TPS % reads on an engine scanner. Check for any non-linearity and if the sensor reads 0% when not pressed and 100% when fully pressed.

Avoid cheap aftermarket TPS sensors; I bought one and it was junk.

[mrbiglar]

Is OEM. Reads ok, but have another known good OEM coming just to be sure.

My MAF is aftermarket. what is best way to check that?

[STiPWRD]

I'd suggest fixing the TPS leak first and seeing if that solves everything. If not, then it could be the MAF. According to the FSM, the MAF should read 0.3V-4.58V when the engine is running depending on air flow (this corresponds to 1.3 g/s to 240 g/s). Check if you are operating in this range.

MAF voltage.jpgMAF circuit.jpg

As far as aftermarket vs OEM MAF, this thread might help:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...sensor-options

My take-away is that the MAF is a critical sensor where the slightest bit of mis-calibration could drastically impact the fueling. I've found that cheap aftermarket sensors often have a poor tolerance range on measurement accuracy so I personally would not run an aftermarket MAF. They are very expensive, unfortunately, but I went ahead and bought a new one from Subaru just for that peace of mind. You could also try RockAuto as mentioned in the thread.

[UnhipPopano]

For a Mass Air Flow sensor to work out of the box, the effective cross sectional area needs to be the same as that used for the original tune. Also take into account that for optimal accuracy of the MAF you need several diameters both upstream and down to be straight, but it does not look like the original setup was optimal.

[mrbiglar]

Ok. Here's the update. put a second known good TPS sensor in, just to rule out. Same issue. Checked the TPS % reading. It starts at 0% and stays that way for some of pedal travel. Full throttle full open, it only reads at 85%??. Also replaced the aftermarket MAF, with a known good MAF. Fuel Pressure is showing 38 psi at idle with vacuum connected.

Thoughts? Keep in mind I tried all of the standard items above. I guess the throttle % reading is new, and something to go off of. It is not DBW btw.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Ok. Here's the update. put a second known good TPS sensor in, just to rule out. Same issue. Checked the TPS % reading. It starts at 0% and stays that way for some of pedal travel. Full throttle full open, it only reads at 85%??. Also replaced the aftermarket MAF, with a known good MAF. Fuel Pressure is showing 38 psi at idle with vacuum connected.

Thoughts? Keep in mind I tried all of the standard items above. I guess the throttle % reading is new, and something to go off of. It is not DBW btw.

This is just a thought.
Is it possible that the throttle plate is dirty or worn out and just letting to much air leak by when shut?
Bob

[ben1272]

Ok. Here's the update. put a second known good TPS sensor in, just to rule out. Same issue. Checked the TPS % reading. It starts at 0% and stays that way for some of pedal travel. Full throttle full open, it only reads at 85%??. Also replaced the aftermarket MAF, with a known good MAF. Fuel Pressure is showing 38 psi at idle with vacuum connected.

Thoughts? Keep in mind I tried all of the standard items above. I guess the throttle % reading is new, and something to go off of. It is not DBW btw.

I'm sure this is not the case, but check that you have proper pinout on your TPS harness connector. Mine had been re-wired mirrored to how it should be and caused me problems. I guess some types of tune require re-wiring the TPS so it does happen from time to time. Like I say, probably not your problem, but it only takes a few minutes to check. My car would start and stop immediately with the sensor wired mirrored. The pedal travel worked but the heated wire and thermistor wiring was swapped and caused ECU to shut engine down right after start.