Bought a highly modified donor, can I utilize xx part?

[TexasAviator]

1990 Mustang LX, Fox body Hatchback. Car was completed by its current owner 2 years ago and has been driven less than 4,000 miles. It started life as a 5.0 LX and now sports a 347 c.i. stroker motor with a complete $4000 Maximum Motorsport “Grip” suspension package and FULL “Trick Flow” stage one top end kit. The Mustang has NEVER been raced, nor in an accident, and retains all of the original sheet metal except the Cervini Fiberglass hood. The car fax came back clean as a whistle. There is no rust inside or out. Steering has been converted over to a manual rack and pinion and the car has no A/C.

I put prices by everything they listed, there is a lot more on this car and its a very nice running fast car. i am hoping for 390-410 whp.

BODY
2 stage urethane red, matching the original color w/ gold panel on hood.
3” Cervini cowl fiberglass hood with struts.
5% darker tinted glass
New belt moldings and door seals

ENGINE & TRANSMISSION
Stroked 347 c.i. Ford Windsor (3000)
Trick Flow Stage one engine kit which includes the intake, heads, rocker arms, push rods, harmonic balancer, valve covers, and hydraulic cam. (2800)
30 lb. Motorsport injectors (150)
Pro M mass air meter (300)
C & L Air intake (125)
March alternator bracket and pulleys (1000)
3 Core radiator with electric fan (300)
225 lph electric fuel pump (85)
Heavy duty clutch package (NOT SURE WHAT BRAND) (300 BALLPARK)
World Class T-5 Transmission (1000 REBUILT)
Aluminum drive shaft. (300-600 NEEDS SHORTENED)
New: Water pump, heater core, battery, alternator, 1” phenolic spacer, and oil sending unit. (MISC 500)

SUSPENSION
Maximum Motorsport “Grip” suspension in a box which includes: (4000 DOLLARS! YIKES)
K-member (with 2-point brace)
Front Control Arms
Torque-arm
Panhard Bar
XL Series Full-length Subframe Connectors
Coil-over Conversion Kits, Front and Rear
Coil-over springs
Caster/Camber Plates
HD Rear Lower Control Arms (no spring perch or swaybar mount)
Bilstein HD series struts
Bilstein HD series shocks
Adjustable Rear Swaybar
Aluminum Steering rack Bushings
Solid Steering Shaft
Bumpsteer Kit (adjustable outer tie-rod ends)
Strut Tower Brace
Front Swaybar Relocation Kit
Front Swaybar Bushings
Front Swaybar End Links

8" Ford differential posi-traction w/3.73:1 Motorsport gears (2000 with brakes, diff, lsd, blah)
T/A stud girdle
Real” Cobra 17” wheels w/new B.F. Goodrich 245 x 45R x 17’s (2000)
5-lug wheel conversion (inc with axle price)
Cobra Brakes (inc with axle price)

INTERIOR
New stock LX interior, re-upholstered in black (too nice to tear into)
New Kenwood head unit; JL amp, JL front & rear speakers, and JL sub (not sure if I will use this)

So just over 13800 in parts i can use for the build not including that crazy 4000 dollar suspension. If I sell the shell, the new interior, the suspension system, etc, I might clear another 2 or 3 thousand, maybe. So quite a start for my build, i am very excited but i cant afford a base chassis yet, so it will be some time before i tear this running car apart. But that will be its fate after I get to know the drive train and the cars character for some time before I can start a build.

So finally should I use any of that suspension stuff, it has a pan hard, a driveshaft support frame that runs the length, it uses a 3 link with a pan hard but beefier than what we are seeing on ffr cars, overkill probably. Just curious to what you all think of the suspension stuff and what you have seen on your donors.

[TexasAviator]

[TexasAviator]

[TexasAviator]

i had posted a bunch of pictures but they dont seem to be showing up, maybe because i am new.

[TexasAviator]

Here is a link to the pictures and to padding my post count. http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c13...ustang2replica

[6t8dart]

This is a bad investment, I'm guessing a car of this build would cost at least $8-10K you will end up with just a few things you can use, rear, engine, trans, front lower arms, steering knuckles, brakes, parking brake system. You will pay a lot more, and even if you part it out, you might be better off buying a full kit, and picking up a rear, trans, and engine.

[Jeff Kleiner]

What he said. Once you get beyond the engine, trans, brakes and rearend about the only things of any significance that you could use are the pedal box, fuel tank, radiator and a few minor odds and ends. All of the aftermarket stuff like suspension, etc. is only worth pennies on the dollar once it has been used. If you've already bought the car use it as a nice old Fox body driver until you're ready to pull the trigger on a roadster then sell it intact.

Jeff

[TexasAviator]

Really appreciate the feedback you guys, this is exactly why i need more time to gather myself and figure the best way to go about my build. I did buy the car and as you said much of the suspension is not usable outside of foxbody fans.

Thank you for taking time to school me on these things.

[j.miller]

So, here's what I think... complete engine, trans(clutch , pressure plate), rebuilt rear end is gonna cost you minimum,8-12k. So what can you buy the car for?. If you go complete kit you pull engine, trans, rear and slap in a used $300 pick-a-part rear to keep it a rolling chassis and sell the carcass complete to a kid with an old nasty 5.0 for 3k....or go base kit and sell what's left for $1,500 OR, buy a used 5.0 engine, trans and rear for 1,000 and swap them out and re-sell as a runner $4,500....just sayin, what can you get the car for? That's the bottom line...da Bat

[GoDadGo]

My concern is how much is this going to cost and exactly what do you plan to remove from the roller.

If it's hacked up and stripped it will be worth little to nothing, but if you are just grabbing the engine and transmission then you may be able to recoup a fair portion of your investment. Being a banker for over 30 years tells me that you really need to do a detailed cost analysis before you make your choice. Also, try to get your hands on as many of the owners receipts to see exactly what's in the drive train. The receipts will really help you determine if you are being sold a bill of good or if there really is a lot of value in what is siting on those wheels.

Good Luck & Let The Numbers Drive Your Decision!

Steve / aka: GoDadGo

PS: Heck, I'd be interested in the Mustang Roller if you just plan to snatch the engine and transmission, assuming that you're not to far from New Orleans.

[6t8dart]

I agree with Steve, that would be a hell of a nice daily driver. It all depends on the price, but I would value that car at least $8K if not more.

I am speaking to you from experience, I bought a donor, and I only used the following parts:

pedal box
rear end. In good condition, 3.27 LS
parking brake stuff, handle and cables good
lower front arms, bushings in good shape, good ball joints
steering knuckles, good bearings and hubs.
ABS unit, I really wanted this, I suppose I could have bought one used.
Power steering rack, was recently replaced.
fuel tank, clean inside and out.


What I didn't use:
Brakes, too far gone, replaced all wearable parts
radiator, had a leak, replaced with FFR
Fan and shroud, eaten by mice, replaced with summit and FFR parts.
engine, needed a rebuild, had 94-95 acc drive, odd sizes, sold engine to friend for a mustang, bought a rebuilt engine.
trans, had 100K on it, but was good, it was an AOD-E, needed electronic controls to shift, sold it to friend for his mustang

I paid $1900 for the mustang, sold the shell and parts off it for about $900, so basically I paid $1k for a used rear end, and parts i kept above. If I did it over, I would not have gone with a donor. The reality is, these donors are getting old, and even ones in good shape, need rework and refurbishment to be used in a nice MKIV,

[GoDadGo]

What he said. Once you get beyond the engine, trans, brakes and rearend about the only things of any significance that you could use are the pedal box, fuel tank, radiator and a few minor odds and ends. All of the aftermarket stuff like suspension, etc. is only worth pennies on the dollar once it has been used. If you've already bought the car use it as a nice old Fox body driver until you're ready to pull the trigger on a roadster then sell it intact.

Jeff

Good Point Sir Jeff!

I think he should drive it if he already bought it.
On another note, some Silly Chevy Guy will do something stupid with it.
Might be a fun father son project because we love those cars.

Contact me if you take Jeff's advice and yank the drivetrain to build your MK-4.

[frankeeski]

Another opinion here. I still believe a donor, even an 80's or 90's donor, is a viable option. You have to do what I and many others have done though, find one for cheap. A basket case is the only way the donor works out with a car that old. If you pay more than $1000 for all of the donor parts you're going to use, you've already lost money. Normally I would say a car like that is just parts but Fox body's in good condition are steadily increasing in price and I've changed my view on tearing a car in that good of condition apart. Keep it, drive it, have fun with it. Who knows, by the time you're ready to order your kit, you may be able to sell the Mustang for a profit and add some money to the build. Or you may just decide to keep it and build a nice sibling for it.

[TexasAviator]

Yeah I already bought the car and for a clean carfax chassis with these parts I know I am getting a good deal, a stroked 302(347) with the top end, trans and rear axle is a 10000 dollar buy by itself. This car has 4K on the motor and rebuild. The guy that sold it has at least 22K in it, so he took a hit for it. I dont think it was mentioned in your comments, the wheels and tires are new. That is another 2k towards the cobra. The cars build was definitely a labor of love, the interior was completely redone floor to roof, the sound system was massaged into the rear hatch area. Its a fantastic car. I could not pass it up but the ultimate goal was to get a car that I could use now, then in time, strip down to do a FFR MKIV. The paint on this car is just amazing, I didnt have the heart to tell the guy that I was going to eventually Frankenstein it for parts.

[GoDadGo]

Enjoy it as a daily or weekend driver while you build your MK-4.
My recommendation is to build a garage that holds them both.
You can never have to many cars, just ask Jay Leno!

[j.miller]

This is too easy.....ASK THE CAR ! Go out in the garage after dark, lift the hood, light some candles (I like burnt Nitro myself) and ask the engine "where do you want to live"...."where do you want to live"...." Cobra or Mustang" wooooOOOO....2 guesses and one ain't Mustang...listen close....."I wanna be a Cobra"....."I Wanna Be A Cobra"....."PUT ME IN THAT ROUND TUBE CHASSIS NOW DAMNIT"

[GoDadGo]

After you listen to the engine and order your complete kit, including the new independent rear end, then do the following:

Sell The Roller To GoDadGo!
Sell The Roller To GoDadGo!
Sell The Roller To GoDadGo!

Keep The Mustang For Those Rainy Days!

Good Luck & Thank You For Your Service!

[Svtfreak]

Buy that one and another stock cheapo. Enjoy that one. When time comes, yank the motor and go fast goodies from it for the ffr. Put the stock ones from other donor in it, sell complete car. Then use the other donor parts from other less nice example. Use it as your salvage (if needed). Then sell it (straight bodies with interior around here of nice foxes sell for 1-1.5k). I did something similar amd saved a ton on the performance parts in the end but it did cost me the time.

[JoeT]

it's too nice to cut up. save it or sell it to someone who will appreciate it