As promised and also the main reason why I have yet to updated my build in a few months is I have been wiring and documenting the wiring on my 818. My goal was to wire up and get the car to run before I updated anything else. I am running a 2002 STI EJ207 Engine and ECU with a 2003 WRX harness. I deleted a lot of things and made a stand alone harness. My cars ODB2 port and ECU work correct, and all the engine sensors are happy.
Note: I am running an Infinity Box so I am only running the engine with OEM wires. Lights, gauges, OEM fuses, and the OEM Relays are all deleted. You may need to keep a few more wire,relays, and fuses if you plan to not use an infinity box. This guide should still help. The main thing you will need if your not going to use an infinity box is the main relay, Both fuse boxes(or make a smaller one), and the ignition relay. Again this is an engine only harness, if you follow this guide and don't use an infinity box you will still need to wire your own body harness for things like lights, signals, wipers, horn, etc.
I have successful started the car and ran it with only a check engine lights for the rear O2 sensor and VSS sensor I had deleted.
If there is anything you guys feel I need to be more clear on please let me know and I will make sure to fix things.
Rather the reinvent the wheel with wiring diagrams I have edited the OEM diagrams and will explain each page as we go. The engine harness is all you need the rest of the lights, switches, and other optional things are all deleted. After you have gutted the harness you will only have engine plugs and sensors remaining. Goodbye OEM wiring: ABS, A/C, horn, cruise control, security, lighting, switches, relays, airbags, etc.
Fuel Pump Relay
-LR:
--Power from Main relay
--This line is not needed since power is drawn from the infinity box straight to the pump controller.
-GR:
-- Signal wire for pump relay and goes to page 10 which ends up connecting to Ignition coil 1.
--Im running a DCCD fuel pro so I am running the GR wire from the ecu & IG coil to the fuel positive on the DCCD fuel pro. This also works as the inline fuse that's called for in the top since it uses the Infinity box fuse.
-B:
--Not needed
-BY:
--Not needed if your running a DCCD fuel pro.
Fuel Pump controller (https://www.dccdpro.com/product/fuelpro/)
Note: I'm running a DCCD fuel pro since I have a Walbro 450 pump.
-VW:
--ECU demand signal. This wire is needed for the DCCD pro ECU pin.
-LgR
--wire is just a 12V line to inform ECU the controller is alive. Connect to DCCD fuel pro with the GR(pump relay) line and Infinity box power line.
-BW
--Connect the DCCD Pro supply Negative/ground line. This is the ground to the pump
--I removed this line altogether and used the wire directly from the pump connector so I had a B color wire to my DCCD fuel pro.
-BOr
--Connect to DCCD Pro Positive Supply line. This is the power for the pump
--I removed this line altogether and used the wire directly from the pump connector so I had a BR color wire to my DCCD fuel pro.
-BY
--Deleted since I have no fuel pump relay
-B
--Deleted. But you will still need some kind of ground wire for your DCCD fuel pro.
Fuel Pump Assembly R58
-Fuel pump
--BR
---Connect to DCCD fuel pro supply positive
--B
---Connect to DCCD fuel pro supply negative.
Everything else can be kept or removed. I deleted everything else in red. Make sure to remove any unused wires from the ECU.
Main relay (deleted with Infinity Box)
-BR:
--Power to ECU and ODB2 port.
--Power connect to the infinity box power.
-YR
--Front and rear O2 sensor power
--I deleted the rear. EJ207 only needs to front sensor for A/F readings
--Connect to the BR line.
-LR
--Delete
--Powers pump but is no longer needed since Infinity box has its own power line.
-YL
--Power to ECU, Waist Gate, MAF, Injectors, Purge control, IAC.
----Connect to BR & YR lines. (So BR, YR, YL should all be powered from the infinity box main relay power wire)
-LgW
--Delete
-B
--Delete
Starter
-Y
--Connect the ECU and starts Y wire to the starter wiring of the infinity box.
The rest can be deleted everything else is security and AT stuff.
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Remove everything but the R/F wires these are for your radiator fans.
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B82 diag
--Subaru only diag tool not needed.
B81 diag
--Subaru only diag tool not needed.
--Only remove the wires do not remove the whole BR line just remove to the connecting point.
Check Connector
--Subaru only diag tool not needed.
--GB
---Connects to VSS but is not needed for VSS to function.
---Delete
--B
---Delete
--LgB
---Delete up tell connecting point.
--Or
---Delete up tell connecting point.
Natural position
-- Delete up to connecting point. FYI I have a JDM ecu and it didn't require me to bridge the connection you may need to if your using a USDM wrx ECU/ EJ205.
Keep the rest
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Straight forward remove the red if you don't want these sensors I had no need for them. Keep the rest as is.
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Nothing needs to change unless you have a EJ207 see below if you do.
EJ207:
You will need to repin the wiring connectors to work with the Ej207 engine harness. See the attached link below for the new pin locations. Section7_EJ207.PNG
The AVCS wires will need to be shielded wire. I used security wire from ACE. You can get the pins in bulk or shoot me a PM and I can send you some pins for less then anyone else. For more see my other thread about ECU pins. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Wire-terminals
-Remove power steering light
-Some delete TGV thats up to you. If you have a EJ207 You can remove all the TGV wires as they wont be used.
-If you have a EJ207 see below
Page 9
Section9.PNG
-Nothing changes here.
-For the EJ207 you will need to pin your harness to match the diagram above follow the ST arrows.
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Page 10 Section10.PNG
No changes
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Only question is if vss can be disabled without making anything grumpy(I will be testing with code disabled once car is in motion) otherwise, this system works and runs! Only thing I have yet to test is the car in motion. My engine started and idles just fine as it is!
Excellent documentation! Documenting the wiring is a must, we always, always have to come back there one day or another. It's hell without documentation.
How's the IBox running? Quick, smooth?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
Excellent documentation! Documenting the wiring is a must, we always, always have to come back there one day or another. It's hell without documentation.
How's the IBox running? Quick, smooth?
Yeah once I understood that I just need to simplify my understanding of the infinity box everything went over much easier. I am just happy to have a relay free system for 99% of the car. I am still going to have to get some relays though for my intercooler fans and that's about it.
Here are a few pics of my harness I used fire proof sleeving for all my wires. Each main connector has its own sleeving so that I could manage the wires better. I find that having a large clump of wires just makes things harder to manage as well as diag if you ever have any problems. All my wires run into the center tunnel so that the ECU sensitive parts can be protected from heat and water.
ECU is in the center in between the seats so it can't get wet or get any heat. My rear firewall panels are removable,it is just taken off for the pictures. My firewall panels have the Infinity boxes installed on them. I'm just finishing up a few things before I place them back on.
Here is a bad pic of the Infinity box my camera got blurry and I took the firewall back off so I could finish up some wiring. But just so you have the idea. I will try to get some nicer pics once I close things up again. image1(2).jpeg
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
Here is my website version if anyone needs a bit cleaner version. Finally got my website up to date with the wiring parts. http://redfogo.com/index.php/wiring/
awesome write up!! I'm about to start my harness and this will help a lot. How much of the sleeving did you use? Did you use the split sleeving?
I used the fireproof sleeving from McMaster-carr you have to depin from one end of the connector to get them on. But like anything lots of other options out there. The amount you will end up needing will depend on how you end up doing the job. You can throw it all in one large sleeve or go smaller individual ones. I wanted every connector to have its own sleeve so I used a decent amount of sleeving about 150 feet maybe more. Also the location you want the ECU will tell you how much wire you will need. I wanted my ECU inside the car under the shiftier so I could keep it away from heat and the elements.
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Originally Posted by TouchStone
