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Thread: Toms 33

  1. #241
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    I am happy with the fenders and boards IMG_8005.JPGIMG_8006.JPGIMG_8012.JPGIMG_8013.JPGIMG_8014.JPGIMG_8015.JPG Had to add glass to both front of fenders and both backs of boards.
    Will start on bumpers or lights, and have the doors to finish.
    Last edited by 1932; 05-17-2018 at 12:55 AM.

  2. #242
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    IMG_8015.JPG Had to add glass to both front of fenders and both backs of boards. Will start on bumpers or lights, and have the doors to finish.
    Hey Tim, I noticed that you have bolts going through the running boards, I would like to suggest a possible alternative to having it bolted through (will eliminate the holes). Please take a look at this link: http://rotaloc.com/products/bonding_...ed-bolt-studs/, we use these male threaded bolt studs all over the place in the industry we are in.In your application I would use something like this one: http://rotaloc.com/products/bonding_...studs/m1-sb32/ in stainless, which could be simply laminated to the underside of the running board and it is just as strong as the bolt through and the attachment is hidden. I/we use the Rotaloc nuts all over the place in what we do which simplifies a lot of hidden critical attachments. With the level of detail you are putting in here I would highly suggest using these to keep the clean and precise look your developing. Cheers!
    Last edited by AJT '33; 05-17-2018 at 08:02 AM.

  3. #243
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    Thanks AJT, but i can not get them on with the studs sticking out!

  4. #244
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    Wow! Very impressive! Looks fantastic.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

  5. #245
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    Thanks AJT, but i can not get them on with the studs sticking out!
    And if you did a Rotaloc nut and screwed a bolt up into it? There are a lot of varieties out there otherwise mabe integrate a decorative protective plate on the running board that uses those bolts as well.

  6. #246
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    Hi AJT, i just glassed the front fenders to boards, made one part. pics to come.
    Will have outside door handles and coul lights, so bolts will have some company.

  7. #247
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    Glassed the front fenders and boards together, because of not fitting and work to make them look my way!IMG_8028.JPG
    Fabbed up the rear bumper mounts- 1 inch DOM and angle iron is good!IMG_8017.JPGIMG_8026.JPGIMG_8031.JPGIMG_8032.JPGIMG_8019.JPG
    Will put the battery on bumper bracket, have to make other part.IMG_8020.JPG

  8. #248
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    I really like the bumpers. Looking forward to see the finish on them

  9. #249
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    I think that is a terrific style! The bumpers, door and trunk handles, stock lights etc really look good. I even like the exposed running board bolts!

  10. #250
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Are you looking to do a front fender as well?? I'm interested as I need to do the same and have concepted a look out of simple Oval tubing.

  11. #251
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    will be fabbing the front bumper mounts next week. going to make clamp to the sway bar mount then back to fram. Not much to go to.

  12. #252
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    Looking great Tom! I haven't gotten back to my running boards. The extra wide rear fenders I made look huge. Your pic of the rear bumper show how much wider these cars really are. Looks like you're having fun

  13. #253
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    New battery box built into rear bumper brace.IMG_8033.JPGIMG_8035.JPGIMG_8037.JPGIMG_8038.JPG

  14. #254
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    Nice job on the battery box, that's a good place for the weight too.
    Dale

  15. #255
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    Thanks for those pics, didn't realize there was that much room there (I don't have the body on yet).
    Can you tell me where you got the bumper from? As good as the car looks without a bumper with the battery in that location a bumper would be a good idea.

  16. #256
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    The stock parts came from Bob Drake ( bobdrake.com ) very good quality.

  17. #257
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    With bumper and battery on needed to move exhaust (every mod makes for more changes)! Moved exhaust out from battery and down behind bumper. Had the front pipes that had bends on flange end so used them in back.IMG_8039.JPGIMG_8040.JPGIMG_8042.JPGIMG_8044.JPG

  18. #258
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Where did you get the bumper from? I need a front bumper and am dreading building one. The. rackets from the car will be fine but it's the bumper itself that I'm dreading to build, would like to buy and modify if necessary. THX.

  19. #259
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    First class setup on both bumper and battery

  20. #260
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    The ones i have are stock 33 bumpers from Bob Drake, but if you are going to cut up you need to find ones that you like the look, then make fit.
    There is no provision for bumpers so you will have to make your own brackets as to frame .
    Last edited by 1932; 05-26-2018 at 07:50 PM.

  21. #261
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    Good i got my Quickjack and aluminum jack. IMG_8046.JPGIMG_8047.JPGIMG_8049.JPGIMG_8058.JPG had to lift front of car to get lift under- not a problem.
    Worked on mounting lights, had to mod the stock mounts and build the under fender part,more work to do on them.IMG_8062.JPG
    Last edited by 1932; 05-30-2018 at 01:43 AM.

  22. #262
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    Got the headlights where i want them,had to cut up the mounts and wield up then braze cups to fit light ball, make the wedge to fit fender, then brace to fender brace. Will clean up when i take fenders off.IMG_8065.JPGIMG_8066.JPGIMG_8067.JPGIMG_8069.JPG

  23. #263
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    Good i got my Quickjack and aluminum jack. IMG_8046.JPGIMG_8047.JPGIMG_8049.JPGIMG_8058.JPG had to lift front of car to get lift under- not a problem.
    Worked on mounting lights, had to mod the stock mounts and build the under fender part,more work to do on them.IMG_8062.JPG
    Please just remember to have safety jack stands in place if you work under the car, that way if you should have a release of pressure the stand is halted at a height. Be safe.

  24. #264
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    Do you have a front bumper too?

    Robert

  25. #265

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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    Please just remember to have safety jack stands in place if you work under the car, that way if you should have a release of pressure the stand is halted at a height. Be safe.
    AJT, Quickjack does has a locking mechanism built in: http://www.quickjack.com/why-quickja...t-jack-stands/
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  26. #266
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    AJT, Quickjack does has a locking mechanism built in: http://www.quickjack.com/why-quickja...t-jack-stands/
    Excellent, want to keep you safe to enjoy the toy later!!!

  27. #267
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    Got the front bumper brackets built and bumper on.IMG_8074.JPGIMG_8075.JPGIMG_8077.JPGIMG_8083.JPGIMG_8088.JPGIMG_8092.JPG

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  29. #268
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    That is awesome

  30. #269
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    Putting on exhaust cutouts QTP low profile with a oval 45 to go into header pipe just in front of bolt flange, using all the room. Had a hell of time wielding, well the dam regulator was letting the gas out top , looked to be working but not enough gas to wield. That was enough for today, will fex tomorrow.

  31. #270
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    Are you not worried abt the heat radiation from the exhausts on the battery? Heat and batteries don't go well together....

    Oh and I take it is a yes on the front bumper then!! hahahaha

    Robert

  32. #271
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    I think that battery will be cooler than in engine compartment.

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  34. #272
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    Well have appointment @ DMV on 19TH and CHP on 7/31. Have read post's and talked about but CHP told me to go to DMV first, so will do!

  35. #273
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    Cut out the bad wields and fixed, have to work on down turns.IMG_8093.JPGIMG_8094.JPG
    Last edited by 1932; 06-16-2018 at 12:15 AM.

  36. #274
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    Got it all in and was able to keep all above the bottom of frame, have to stop putting parts on, no room!IMG_8098.JPGIMG_8102.jpgIMG_8103.jpgIMG_8104.jpg

  37. #275
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    OK well i have Insurance with hagerty, no problem only restriction is 7500 miles a year, guaranteed value. Then went to DMV and worked thru that, had a very nice young lady that was willing to read what i brought and other info, asked two other workers and super, called sacramento four times. I ended up with Kit car as 33 replica and they used the serial number for the VIN, as per sac. Paid my tax and fees, got all my paper work with 60 day permit. So we will see i have appointment at CHP on 7/31.

  38. #276
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    Would like to have the front window in for driving , but out for paint. Thinking about two sided tape? Any ideas on this? Going to drive car for chp-lamp & bar, shakedown before paint.

  39. #277
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    Would like to have the front window in for driving , but out for paint. Thinking about two sided tape? Any ideas on this? Going to drive car for chp-lamp & bar, shakedown before paint.
    I was also looking to see how the front and rear windows install and cannot find anything in the guide, may be blind but am I? If someone knows what page number its under please tell me!! THX!!

  40. #278
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    They glue in like all modern glass.

  41. #279
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    They glue in like all modern glass.
    Thanks 1932, I have not dug in deeper right now but did yours come with the appropriate glue and any finishing trim for the inside of the window? My serial number is #1028 so I am not sure how that compares to other current or recent kits. I will be digging into this on the weekend to see what i have in my kit as I don't see anything listed on my inventory list nor do I remember my son saying anything when he did the inventory of everything.THX!

  42. #280
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    You get only the glass in kit. I will ask neighbor that does glass repair.
    Have decided to go ahead and put glass in as inside paint is single stage and outside paint is base-clear coat .

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