Wareaglescott's Coyote build thread - INDEX ADDED TO POST #1

[Jeff Kleiner]

...I ended up with an excessive amount of extra belt length. For now I have it tapped up. I intend to find someone to cut and sew them to an appropriate length.

I really like the contrasting belts Scott; they look great! Regarding eliminating the excess....If the belt material is like the Simpsons rather than having to sew them after cutting you can just cauterize the end by running the tip of a soldering iron across it. This seals the nylon over so that it doesn't unravel. Experiment and give it a try!

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

I really like the contrasting belts Scott; they look great! Regarding eliminating the excess....If the belt material is like the Simpsons rather than having to sew them after cutting you can just cauterize the end by running the tip of a soldering iron across it. This seals the nylon over so that it doesn't unravel. Experiment and give it a try!

Jeff

Ok thanks Jeff. I have a substantial amount of excess so I can cut near the end and give it a shot. I like the price of that option!!

[wareaglescott]

Worked on aligning the front this morning. Previously I had set the rear toe and camber.

I purchased some toe plates, a laser level and the Fast Trax 91000 tool with the no lip adapters.
The first issue I had was with the 18" wheels and the fast trax tool at full extension it was just a little short for the adapters to grab the lip of the wheel. I went ahead and made an extension so it would fit out of some spare metal I had. Also to make sure I did not throw off the angle at all I added some shims on the bottom two pieces so everything was equal.
Here is my extension:


My first step was to use the toe plates and get the toe in set. I knew the other adjustments would change this setting but I wanted to get it close. I was shooting for 1/16" toe in.
Once the toe was close I set the camber at - .5 degrees. Again I knew adjusting the others would throw this off but cycling through camber then caster seemed to get me closer each time to the final settings.
Next I worked on caster. This is a little more tricky. The end of the fast trax tool is angled at 15 degrees. Basically you turn the front of the wheel out 15 degrees. Then set the level to 0 and then turn the front of the wheel in 15 degrees and you can adjust the upper control arms until you get your desired caster angle. With power steering I was shooting for 8 degrees. The problem with the tool end is it is about 3/4" long and trying to judge 15 degrees with any measure of accuracy is difficult. I came up with what I believe was a pretty good system.

First I taped some leftover wood trim on the ends so I could get a little better visual indication of where I was at in relation to straight:


Here the tool is attached to the wheel. You can see where I added the extension and shims to accommodate the 18" wheels:


To figure out the 15 degrees I ended up turning the toe plates upside down and placing them along the inside of the wheel. I determined exactly straight by using a fixed point from the frame and measured in both directions. Then I marked that line on the garage floor with a sharpie. Then I got out my angle measuring device and set it up for 15 degrees and marked a line of off the center line 15 degrees in both directions. I marked both of those lines with the sharpie. Then I was able to turn the wheels and measure the resulting distance from the line drawn to the toe plate. I evened it up until the measurement was equal all the way down the line. Here the wheel is turned out. You can see the 3 lines I drew and I am measuring the distance from the toe plate to the 15 degree out line:


I feel this was as accurate as I could get at home with no advanced equipment. Basically I cycled through toe in, camber, and then caster and each rotation it seemed to get closer and closer to what I was looking for. Since one movement affects the others I think this is the only way to go. It was time consuming but ultimately I think the alignment is quite good. I later validated this with the tracking on my go cart ride. Car tracked perfectly straight with no wandering one way or another. That was a short validation though. I may take the car in for professional alignment once I get it done. I will have to see how it feels and the tires are wearing in the future. Really happy I tried this at home.

I did come across one issue during alignment. I appreciate Jeff Kleiner taking the time for a phone call to help me out mid process. Once again the generosity of this community is spectacular.
To get the 8 degrees of caster on the drivers side I was very close to running out of adjustability on the rear upper control arm. When I got over to the passenger side at first I could only achieve about 6 degrees. Jeff has previously mentioned this possibility and the need to trim the adjustment sleeve a little to make it work. I thought I was going to need to do this on the PS. Turns out when I cycled through the other measurements I was able to achieve 8 degrees without modification. I am essentially at full adjustment though and can go no further. Once I get the body on and the ride height changes I will revisit the alignment and may need to make some further modifications.

After the alignment was done I was ready for my first go cart. I went through and checked all the fluids and greased everything up again. I had a pre go cart checklist to make sure I was ready to go. It was quite exciting pulling it out of the garage with intentions of leaving the driveway for the first time. I was nervous about bottoming out coming off the driveway. That was not a problem. I just took it slow. The car drove beautifully and I couldn't be more pleased. Took my wife on a quick ride also. I cant seem to get the smile off of my face. Really proud to reach this milestone. I am very thankful for all the amazing help I have gotten along the way.


Here is a quick video:
https://youtu.be/jcIsIWjaveA

[edwardb]

Awesome for the first go-kart! It's coming together. Congratulations.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Another milestone met! Congrats

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

Not much build progress to report. I have a list of tasks I want to get to but have been spending a lot of time on the phone with tech support trying to get my SCT tuner issue figured out. They have escalated that to engineering and it may take 1-2 weeks to hear back.

In the mean time I have taken a couple go carts around the neighborhood to see how things are running. I was having some smoke coming from the DS j pipe area. Finally traced that back to a leak at the power steering rack. The fluid was blowing back onto the exhaust causing the smoke. I believe I have that corrected now. No leak on today's go cart so I will continue to monitor.

After a few drives I have realized my self alignment was not what I hoped it was! Haha. I believe the track is off. I loaned my tools to a friend. I will be revisiting that in the near future.
The car seems to track straight but it takes holding the steering wheel at about 11 oclock to stay straight. Now keep in mind my wheel is removable so I can orient it however I want. It always starts straight but then I end up at 11 o'clock to go straight down the road.
Can anyone give a suggestion what is likely off with these circumstances?

[Railroad]

Sounds like your thrust angle is off. ie rear is not following the front. Measure the distance between the wheels on each side, first. Follow up with rear alignment, similar to the front, per specs.

[AC Bill]

A four wheel alignment done at a professional shop isn't really that much, and I feel well worth the dollars. A good alignment can make the car a joy to drive, or a handful if it's off.
The ride height will need to be adjusted once it's all together, so whatever aligning you do now isn't going to make a big difference, (other than perhaps for your short go-kart excursions). The car will weigh more after the body, roll-bars, windshield etc., is on, and your pretty close to licensing it. Set the ride height to where you want it, then get the final alignment done. The springs/shocks will often settle after some miles. If you notice it settled some, just raise it to the same exact height as it was when you had the alignment done, and it will be back in alignment.

[wareaglescott]

A four wheel alignment done at a professional shop isn't really that much, and I feel well worth the dollars. A good alignment can make the car a joy to drive, or a handful if it's off.
The ride height will need to be adjusted once it's all together, so whatever aligning you do now isn't going to make a big difference, (other than perhaps for your short go-kart excursions). The car will weigh more after the body, roll-bars, windshield etc., is on, and your pretty close to licensing it. Set the ride height to where you want it, then get the final alignment done. The springs/shocks will often settle after some miles. If you notice it settled some, just raise it to the same exact height as it was when you had the alignment done, and it will be back in alignment.

Thanks for the response.
I'm not concerned about the cost of alignment. I am just of the mindset that if I can build the entire car I should be able to align it myself also. I didn't get it exactly right the first try but for me that is part of the learning process. Now if I can't get it nailed after 3-4 times then I might seek outside help. I have found up to this point I haven't asked any questions here that all the helpful people on the forum have not been able to help me with. My other issue is I live in a small town and finding a shop I trust to dial in this front and rear suspension is not real easy. I'd like to learn how to do a good alignment with the tools I purchased so I can change it myself to account for any ride height changes or whatever.

[wareaglescott]

Worked on the weather pack connectors for the lights at all four corners today. My gauge backlighting is not working and I need to hook up my seat heaters. I am planning to take off my dash to work on those items so I figured I might as well go ahead and test out the lights so I was exactly sure what all worked and what needed attention.
I used two 3 position weather pack connectors on each corner. One for each light unit. Up front I took the existing ground wire from the harness and made a ground point to the frame. Then I added a ground wire from that point to each of the two lights per side. I would have liked to do this in the rear with the grounds but the fuel tank was blocking my access to where I would have liked to drill. For the rear I just used the existing ground wire and split it off running to both lights per side.
All the lights worked. I do have one bug. When I hooked up the brake lights the light illuminated and stayed on. No key in ignition and not touching the brake pedal. Only way I could turn them off was to pull the fuse or turn off the master power switch. So know I need to figure that out. Any suggestions on what is causing that?

It was nice to see the lights on even if they are only temporarily mounted. Look forward to the day I have a body to attach them to!

[Railroad]

Switch out of adj...

[wareaglescott]

Switch out of adj...

That was it. All squared away. Thanks

[wareaglescott]

My MIL illuminated and indicated P0116 - engine coolant temp sensor 1 circuit range performance

I have become friendly with a tech at Ford tech support and I asked him about this. He actually indicated that this is a known issue and there is a coolant temp software issue that is causing this in the crate motors. Apparently when they get the factory PCM they diet a lot of stuff out of the production version of the pcm. Somewhere along the way this caused an issue and there is a software update for this.
I was given the option of sending my PCM to them to flash with an update or they could send me a device to upload a software fix through the OBD port. So if anyone gets this code in the future call Ford for a software update. Dont try to trouble shoot it with other methods.

[Straversi]

Love the go cart video. Congratulations.
-Steve

[carlewms]

A bit late on my part but CONGRATULATIONS!

[wareaglescott]

I went back and revisited my alignment. I was having to hold the wheel at about 11 o'clock to track straight. After measuring everything out looking for where the error was I found the issue to be my garage floor. The drivers side front was sitting on a level floor. When I did the passenger front initially I did not recheck the level of the floor. Turns off that area has some slope in it. Once I figured that out I realized I had a pretty good difference in camber between the front tires. I corrected that and went for a test spin. Drove around the neighborhood a bit and it seems much better. At least good enough to get me through the go cart phase until I do final alignment after the body is on.

Have about 10 miles on the car now. Enjoying the short drives to shake things out a bit and see what issues show up.

Next thing I need to do is bed the brakes. The car stops fine but it certainly is not a hard stop. I see the wilwood instructions show tips for bedding the brakes. I have obviously never done this nor driven a car without power assisted brakes so I don't really have an expectation for what to expect.
Any tips on bedding the brakes are appreciated!

Thanks

[Gromit]

Glad you worked out the alignment issue a flat workspace is why the pro setups have those big steel frames
Keep posting I'm enjoying the build vicariously

Chris aka Gromit

[wareaglescott]

I mentioned earlier in the thread I was getting P0116 code from the motor. It was labeled "engine coolant temp sensor 1 circuit range performance". After talking with Ford performance they indicated there was a bug in the pcm software that required an update. The options were to send them my pcm or they could send me a hand held tuner to upload the update. I choose for them to send me the hand held device. Plugged it in to the OBD port and uploaded the software update per the instructions. Should be all taken care of now.
If you have a 2015 coyote watch for this error code.

[wareaglescott]

Well almost 4 months after the kit was delivered I received my last backordered part today. The door latches showed up. Glad to have everything I purchased in my possession and don't have to track anything else down.


Now I am working on installing the seat heaters in the Kirkey high back seats with the help of my loyal assistants. They always lay just inside the basement garage door waiting for me and get pretty excited when I have an inside project:


Wondering if anyone has any tips on this project? The foam is attached the the seat cover. I am thinking I need to cut the foam away and put the heater between the cover and the foam or I would not be able to feel the heat very much. Can anyone confirm this? Also since the seat bottom pretty much sits flat on the floor I will have to bring the wires out the back of the seat and route them around somehow.
I am unsure on the mounting location for the switches. Trying to decide on either the dash or somewhere along the transmission tunnel. I think aft of the shifter would be a pretty good spot. Anyone have pros/cons on various switch locations? I do know I want to be able to see both the switches so I know if they are on or not. I once had a vehicle that had seat heater controls on the side of the seat and it was very hard to visually tell if they were on or off. It drove me crazy.

Thanks

[Railroad]

I think forward of the shifter would be more accessible and use some LED indicator lights, whether the switches are in line of sight or not. It also seems stuff behind the shifter gets in the way more than forward of the shifter. I saw a console with cup holders incorporated. I know that is not period correct, but I do need holders. I understand you are more rural than city, but I would seek out an upholstery shop on the foam and seat cover issue. Maybe someone on here has experience doing it. You might be able to drill and grommet a hole in the alum seat frame for the wiring. Nice set of helpers you have there.

[Straversi]

looks like your assistants want those heaters installed under their beds. Quick and easy. Big switches for those paws.

-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Worked on the seats today.

I purchased these mounting brackets from Kirkey.


The limited room required me to turn them around from their intended direction and the tab that mounts to the floor is now under the seat instead of on the outside of it. It will make it a little trickier to get them bolted in. I like the mounts though because it allowed me to put a little recline into the seats.
Here they are mounted to the seats.


I also installed a lumbar support in my drivers seat. It is also a kirkey product and came with a couple snaps to rivet to the seat to hold the support in place. I can easily add one to the passenger seat if my wife decides she wants one.


After that I moved on to the seat heaters. I read of two different ways you could install these in the kirkey high backs. First was to put some sort of insulating material like felt on the aluminum part of the seat. Then put the heater blankets on that and then put the seat cover over it. The foam padding attached to the seat cover is pretty thick in areas. I was afraid the heaters would not feel hot enough if I did this. I read mixed reviews on the effectiveness of the heaters doing this so I choose the other method.
The way I did it was to cut away the foam in the area the heater pad would go. Put the pad just under the seat fabric material and glue the foam back into place. This is what I was starting with.


That foam was really attached good. It was quite a tedious time consuming process cutting and pulling it away in the intended area. Here you can see the pad in place. The middle piece I completely removed and added back on at the end. The other parts I could just cut part way to insert the heating pad.

No pictures of the bottom pad but it was pretty much the same. The heating system consist of 2 pads per seat.
After I had the pads in place and the foam glued back in I needed to run the wires. I drilled a hole for the plug through the lower inside corner of each seat and put a rubber grommet in there and ran the wires. These will not be visible when the seat is mounted. I put some padded clamps on the back of each seat to hold the rest of the wiring harness. This location will work good because with the slant of the seat back the harnesses will kind of be in the dead space just behind the seat and totally unseen and out of the way.


I decided to mount the switches on the transmission tunnel forward of the shifter. I drilled another hole in the side of the transmission tunnel right near the back inside of the seat and ran my needed wires into that area. I am still working on covering the transmission tunnel so I will post pictures of the switch position when I get done.

It was a beautiful day here today. I had to sneak in another go cart ride for no real reason. I am up to 15 miles on the odometer. Everything is working great. Now that I have driven it around a few times I intend to put it up on jack stands and do a thorough inspection of everything and look for any issues.

[wareaglescott]

Installed the outside wall of the drivers footbox today. I was waiting as long as I possibly could so I could access the pedal area. After driving and everything working ok I am pretty confident I won't need to get back in that area. With that being said I expect something to pop up next test drive! haha. I am still working on getting my handheld tuner issue worked out so I did not cover the top yet so I still have access to the wiring harnesses in there.


After that I started working on my transmission tunnel. I plan to make it removable. I wanted to figure out the location of the heat seater switches and drill the holes for the fire extinguisher mounting bracket. I got that all mounted up. Heat seaters are just forward of the stick. I like this location. Had to temporarily put the fighter stick shifter in place to get a look at how the final product is shaping up. Nothing super fancy but I am really pleased with my aviation themed touches I have added. I really like the aspect of being able to have something unique in my car.

Here is how it is looking:


I ordered some leather to cover this piece and will get to work on that when it comes in. Next I am going to start the heat/ sound insulation for the entire cockpit area.

[wareaglescott]

Worked on the interior heat/ sound shield. I used a thermo tech product. Prior to the install I siliconed any gaps between panels. Then where the pieces came together I used some dynamat aluminum tape. Pretty happy how it came out. I read a lot of people make cardboard templates to cut the pieces. I just grabbed the carpet sections out of the box and used those for templates. Worked great. Would have taken me 4 times longer to use card board. I ended up putting the insulation on the under side of the transmission tunnel cover piece. I am going to cover that with leather so I did not want the top getting to thick.

[wareaglescott]

Knocked out a few projects today. Was having an issue with the coyote throwing some codes related to the vacuum powered intake runner controls. The issue is well documented in this thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-CMCV-Plumbing

After I figured out there was a problem but not knowing how to correct it EdwardB did a beautiful job working out the fine details and providing instructions on how to correct the issue. Anyone installing a 2015 Coyote needs to reference this thread. I highly recommend you take the hose off from the rear of the engine and install the replacement piece PRIOR to dropping your engine in. It was really not enjoyable trying to get that off with the limited work space provided by the installed motor.
Thanks EdwardB for another great contribution to the building community on this issue.

Also today I worked on mounting my transmission tunnel. Again by following EdwardB's lead. I wanted the attachment points to be hidden.

I made some L shaped pieces and attached them to the cross braces in the transmission area. They are carefully positioned so I can put a bolt through them from underneath the car. Not exactly easy to take the cover off but it is doable and you will see no fasteners. After I positioned these two pieces I placed the cover on and drilled through from the top. Then I unbolted the 2 pieces from the transmission tunnel cross braces and riveted them on. That way I could be sure my alignment was exact. I still need to cover the tunnel with the leather I ordered and then it will be ready for a final install.



Underside showing the brackets attached:


After that I temporarily mounted my seats so I could go on another go cart ride. I had a few things to check out since my last drive.
First I realized I had incorrectly set my tach up at 1 pulse per rev. The correct setting was .5 pulse per rev. I changed that and a functional check of the tach with some spirited accelerations shows it is working properly now.
Next I was able to test the seat heaters I had installed. Had a buddy ride with me. Both worked great.
Lastly I wanted to check for any codes associated with the vacuum system. I did not get any and everything worked great in that area.

Put another 3 miles on the car as I continue to shake it down looking for any issues. I am up to 18 miles. Hope to get about 50 before the body is ready to go on. It was 80 here today. Beautiful day for a ride and the Coyote is running great!

[2bking]

After I got mine on the road, I had some hot air coming in around the seat area which I traced to the tunnel cover. I had made it removable and attached it under the carpet with 8 screws from the top. The welded tubes that frame the tunnel were not in plane and allowed the hot air to pass between the tunnel cover and frame. I made a gasket to seal it.

[wareaglescott]

After I got mine on the road, I had some hot air coming in around the seat area which I traced to the tunnel cover. I had made it removable and attached it under the carpet with 8 screws from the top. The welded tubes that frame the tunnel were not in plane and allowed the hot air to pass between the tunnel cover and frame. I made a gasket to seal it.

Good to know. Thanks King. I will watch for that.

[Vette1972]

Hi WarEagleScott, I just finished reading your entire build thread. Wow what a great job and nice posting of how the build went. Interesting all the trials and tribulations you experienced and SOLVED. Will keep up as you finish. Thanks, Len

[wareaglescott]

Hi WarEagleScott, I just finished reading your entire build thread. Wow what a great job and nice posting of how the build went. Interesting all the trials and tribulations you experienced and SOLVED. Will keep up as you finish. Thanks, Len

Thanks Len. I enjoy doing the build thread. I learned a ton from reading others so will be pleased if anyone finds any useful information in mine.

Scott

[wareaglescott]

As I have been go carting a bit I have been looking for areas that need attention.
My front PS brake line was rubbing the tire a little bit and at full steering lock and the tire was rubbing the F panel.

Here is a picture I took before:


I purchased some steering rack limiters from Breeze and installed them. Also the first picture was taken prior to my alignment and also with the wheels in the air. Today I was able to rotate the brake line fitting a little and that improved the line rub issue. With the alignment and the steering rack limiters I now have this at full steering wheel lock and the wheels on the ground:


Looks like I should be good now. I do have a question. I put trash bags under the wheels and turned the wheel full lock. Obviously the car is not moving. When the car is rolling should the full steering wheel lock be this same position or do they possibly go further with the motion? I know if the car is on jacks I can make it turn further. I was not sure what affect forward motion may have on things. I am confident the brake line rub is taken care of. Just want to make sure on the F panel rub.

[wareaglescott]

Buddy came over with his GoPro and we took a little ride.

Not quite sure what the whistling noise is. Must be the airflow over the camera.


https://youtu.be/n5zwJ14r-L0

[wareaglescott]

Today I covered the transmission tunnel in leather. I am real happy how it turned out. I found a place on line the sold auto upholstery leather remnants and I purchased a piece large enough to cover the transmission tunnel for about $50 shipped. I also found a piece to redo the dash in leather but have not decided on doing that for sure or not. The leather I got matches the existing dash vinyl quite nicely.

As usual I followed EdwardB's advice and ordered the same foam and adhesive he used to cover his dash and transmission tunnel. The only difference was I used 1/4" foam instead of 1/8". Being the first time I ever did this my theory was the extra 1/8' thickness might help me hide any errors I might make.

First step was to cut a piece of foam and apply the adhesive. I cut it oversized and them trimmed it after it was installed. I put the adhesive on both mating surfaces let it set up for about 5 minutes and then stuck them together



When I was trimming it I had to cut out for the shifter and then seat heater switches. I ended up using a sanding disk on my dremmel to shape the edges after I trimmed them

.

After that I went and covered with the leather.
I have temporarily placed the trim ring in place because I am checking on the clearance the shifter has from the transmission tunnel and wanted to make sure everything was in place.


I did come to find out the foam was not as forgiving as I hoped. The area where I installed the fill piece around the shifter hole is visible underneath the leather. I used some flush mount rivets and riveted that piece on from the top. If I were to do it again I would have riveted that piece from the bottom and then made a fill piece so everything fit perfectly flush. It is not really noticeable and won't be particularly when the shifter boot is in place but if I ever do it again I will be sure to do it from below.

Really pleased how the interior is coming together. I am working on the seat mounting brackets which will be another post to itself. Since my bodywork is being done at Whitby and no sanding will be done with the car on the body I am going to go ahead and install most the carpet as well. I think it will be a little easier to do that before the body is on and it should not get messed up by sanding dust or anything.

[Straversi]

I'm far from this step but have been giving it some thought lately. I was wondering what sins the foam covered. Sounds like the surface has to be pretty smooth and blemish free. Good to know.
-Steve

[edwardb]

I did come to find out the foam was not as forgiving as I hoped. The area where I installed the fill piece around the shifter hole is visible underneath the leather. I used some flush mount rivets and riveted that piece on from the top. If I were to do it again I would have riveted that piece from the bottom and then made a fill piece so everything fit perfectly flush. It is not really noticeable and won't be particularly when the shifter boot is in place but if I ever do it again I will be sure to do it from below.

I'm far from this step but have been giving it some thought lately. I was wondering what sins the foam covered. Sounds like the surface has to be pretty smooth and blemish free. Good to know.
-Steve

Looking great Scott. The leather look on the transmission cover is nice. There really isn't anything about foam or covering, whether vinyl or leather, that's forgiving. If there's a bump or imperfection in the base surface, it's going to picture through to the final covering. Get it dead flat and smooth. I use JB Weld for filler if necessary. It sands out nicely. Even dents in the foam will show. Ask me how I know. I had to do one of my door panels over because of that.

[wareaglescott]

Looking great Scott. The leather look on the transmission cover is nice. There really isn't anything about foam or covering, whether vinyl or leather, that's forgiving. If there's a bump or imperfection in the base surface, it's going to picture through to the final covering. Get it dead flat and smooth. I use JB Weld for filler if necessary. It sands out nicely. Even dents in the foam will show. Ask me how I know. I had to do one of my door panels over because of that.

Paul,
Those flush mount rivets you mentioned did not show through so I was happy about that. You cant even tell the brackets for the hidden mounts are there so that is good. For the shifter hole fill piece I am just planning on people staring at my fighter stick shift and wondering why the heck that is in a car! They shouldn't even notice the other imperfections with that visual distraction! haha
It didn't occur to me I should have mounted that below until after the fact. Learning as I go. I will just add that to the file for next time!

[wareaglescott]

Continuing to work on my interior.

These Kirkey high back seats are somewhat complex to mount to my satisfaction. Due to my height my seat will be fixed and not adjustable as far back as I can get it. Ordered some Kirkey mounting brackets but they did not line up with a good spot on the floor to bolt them in. Ended up making a template out of plywood and then 1/8" steel plate and am working on getting that drilled and tapped to the frame. At the same time I need to be able to move the brackets if there is a conflict with the body going on. I want the plate under the carpet though so I am working on that and the carpet. Here is one pic of what I am installing. Will do a more detailed explanation on the seat mounting when I get it done


I did get the rear wall carpeted this morning. After I finish the seat bracket install I will do the rest. I ended up ordering some adhesive to cover both my transmission tunnel and for the carpet. It came with a spray gun but I decided that would be a mess and it would probably trash the gun. I decided just to brush it on. Got some really cheap brushes at Home Depot and it brushes on very nice and then I just throw the brush away. Here is what I am using.


This stuff gets tacky pretty quick. I applied it on both the wall and the back of the carpet. Then let it sit for about 5 minutes and then put the carpet piece in position. Due to the size of the rear wall piece I was concerned about how long it would take me to apply the adhesive and dealing with that big of a piece when it was sticky. I decided to clamp half of it in position and then apply the adhesive to only the other half first and then do the second half. That worked out really well.


Came out pretty good. I will have to finish my seat mounting plates before I can do the rest. I really enjoy the different parts of the build that require to try something you have never done before. Had a few of those the last couple days.

[Vette1972]

You are coming along nicely. I like the detail you are providing. Keep it up! Len

[wareaglescott]

Worked on the seat mounting brackets today. I had previously mentioned how I purchased some mounting brackets made by Kirkey for the high back seats. These allowed me to mount the seats with a little bit of recline. When the brackets attached to the seat the alignment to the floor did not provide a suitable point to bolt the seat into the frame. I decided to make some plates that I could attach the seat to and then attach the plate to the floor. Since I can not get bolts through with the seat in position it was a little tricky getting everything lined up perfectly.

The first step was to mount the brackets to the seat and make some wood templates.


Next I removed the seat from the brackets after marking where they hit the wood. I drilled holes through the bracket into the wood and through the floor plate. Ultimately these bolts will be bolted through the floor. That will help slightly but I didn't feel the floor was strong enough to hold the seats by itself.


Once I determined my idea would work with the wood templates I got a piece of 1/8 steel plate and cut them out.

Then I transferred the holes from the wood template to the steel plate. These four bolts in the picture are the ones that will also go through the floor. I reattached the seat just to make sure everything lined up perfectly.


After that I again removed the seat and put the bracket back on the floor. Then I used the four bolts that go through the mounting bracket to hold everything in position. After that I drilled and tapped 4 holes into the frame tubes.


These seats are not going anywhere with this setup. Next I am going to clean up the parts and put a coat of paint on the steel just to prevent any future rust. I will put the carpet over the plates and just have the seat mount bracket sticking up. I also intend to add a brace at the rear of the seat to the back wall. I am pretty confident I will not have a problem with the seat position when I go to put the body on but just in case I will wait until final assembly to work on the rear bracing.

Between the mounting and the seat heaters I have spent quite a bit of time on the seats. Funny how that works out. Prior to the project I just figured I would order some seats and put them in. Much more complicated than I anticipated. I enjoy the part of the build when you have to figure things out with your own solutions.
Now it is football time. Big game today! War Eagle

[Paul2STL]

Your build is really inspiring me to iron out my plans for my build. I have been book marking a lot of tips. I will be building the same set up in the future hopefully sooner than later just waiting for the 50/50 sale.

[Jdav]

Great progress Scott, I'll have to visit again soon to see it all in person. And Go Dawgs.