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Thread: Wareaglescott's Coyote build thread - INDEX ADDED TO POST #1

  1. #281
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    Great progress Scott, I'll have to visit again soon to see it all in person. And Go Dawgs.
    Sure come back any time. That game was brutal yesterday. Never seen such a poor offensive half or I guess from your point of view a spectacular defensive half! Congrats on the win.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  2. #282
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    interior

    Worked on the interior the last couple days. It is pretty much done other than the permanent installation of my fighter stick shifter.

    I wasn't sure what guys did to cover the hole for the parking brake. I put a couple filler pieces in place and then carpeted over it. With my seat location that area was very tight around the boot. I am thinking about doing something underside in the transmission tunnel to weather proof it a bit. Then again I never intend to drive in the wet and other than the very rare getting caught in unexpected rain in which case the entire interior will get wet so I am not really decided if I will bother.


    After that was done and the transmission tunnel walls were carpeted I did my final installation of the seat mount plate. The 4 bolts in the middle of the plate are tapped into the frame tubes. The two bolts going through each seat mounting bracket also go through the floor. Just in case I need to move the seat some when the body goes on I made it so I can move the bolts to new holes if needed.


    Here you can see how I ran the carpet over the seat mounts with just the part that attaches to the seat sticking through. Took a little bit of time to trim the carpet but I like how that worked out. Looks pretty clean I think. I did not glue down the area over the bolts on the bracket that I potentially may need to move just in case. Just made a little flap that sits down under the seat.


    After the carpet was done I reinstalled the seats and transmission tunnel . Getting those hidden bolts in the transmission tunnel from underneath is a little tricky but I like not seeing any fasteners. I am hopeful it will be a long time before I need to take that piece off again. I am very pleased how the interior came out. My only complaint is the lumps in the dash where I made the hidden mounts. I am going to wait until the body is on and see how noticeable it is but at some point anticipate redoing that. Due to the thickness of my transmission tunnel covering I had a little conflict with my fighter stick shifter so I am having to get that part modified a little bit. Other than that the interior is complete. I took it out for a quick go cart. It had quite a different sound to it now that the insulation and carpet is in. At first I was concerned something was wrong with the motor but then I realized it was just quieter. Really happy how the interior is looking!
    (excuse the blue tape on the seat belts. They are way to long. Mom is coming at Thanksgiving and bringing her sewing machine so we have a few projects lined up including fixing the length on the belts. Also the shoulder belts are just thrown over the top of the rear wall because they are a pain to feed through the little slot and they will be coming in and out again.)

    Last edited by wareaglescott; 11-16-2016 at 02:45 PM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  3. #283
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    Scott, The interior is looking great. Very nice job. The carpet over the seat frames came out very well. The tape looks cool. LOL How about posting a pic of the complete chassis as it sits now? Again, great job. Len

  4. #284
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Looks great. If I remember, you sent your body off to paint a while ago. How's that coming?
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  5. #285
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Here you go Len. Just happened to take one today when I had it outside.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  6. #286
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    Man that is looking great. Clean and neat look. The belts are going to look great when you get the body on. Thanks!

  7. #287
    Senior Member mmklaxer's Avatar
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    This has been a great thread to follow - especially for someone with a comparable skill level. I don't recall seeing a paint scheme for your build (might have just been a while) but is there any chance you're painting it white with blue stripes and orange pin stripes? The seat belts scream "Auburn Theme" similar to Dave's USC build...

  8. #288
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmklaxer View Post
    This has been a great thread to follow - especially for someone with a comparable skill level. I don't recall seeing a paint scheme for your build (might have just been a while) but is there any chance you're painting it white with blue stripes and orange pin stripes? The seat belts scream "Auburn Theme" similar to Dave's USC build...
    Thanks!
    My avatar picture is my paint scheme. I had an artist draw that up as a concept to see if I liked it. I have 3 grays and 2 oranges for the stripes I am choosing between. I still need to finalize those selections but it will pretty much look like the picture.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  9. #289
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    trunk carpet/phone charger

    Today I put some carpet in the trunk area. I was not really caring to have anything fancy back there. I just wanted something that was functional. I went to home depot and got some indoor/outdoor carpet for about $20. I went with gray since that is my exterior color.
    I did the majority of the trunk area. I wasn't sure if some of the panels that have bulb seal on them might need to be trimmed some when the body is installed so I left the carpet off of those areas for now. It will be easy to go back and add that after the body is on. I debated whether to cover the fuel access holes. I ended up covering those plates in carpet. I debated using rivnuts to make them removable but just decided I would rivet them in place. It is so easy to drill the rivets out and replace them I will just do that if I need to access under the panels. The one towards the center I have already riveted. The one on the passenger side I will just leave the clecos in until after the body is on. I think that hole will be needed to access one of the bolts.


    After that I installed a dual port USB charger. During the build planning stages I stayed away from any additional electrical components because I was so intimidated by the wiring. I am really pleased to have a better understanding of it at this point. I am enjoying learning all these new skills on the build. I used the radio power wire since I have no radio and ran a ground to the frame. Then I drilled a hole in one of the dash support pieces and installed the USB charger there. I plan to make a small pocket out of carpet and mount it on the drivers side of the transmission tunnel. This will hold my cell phone and sunglasses and should blend in nicely with the other carpet. The location of the charger is pretty much right above where the pocket will be so i can run a short charging cord.


    The weather here continues to be amazing. About 70 today and not a cloud in the sky. I decided to go for another go cart around the neighborhood and did about 4 miles. Everything is working great. If this weather keeps up I may set some sort of go cart mileage record! haha
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  10. #290
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    ...The one on the passenger side I will just leave the clecos in until after the body is on. I think that hole will be needed to access one of the bolts...
    If you have not seen this you might want to consider it and do it now prior to body installation. Sure does make life easier

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...hlight=coupler

    Cheers,
    Jeff

  11. #291
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    pedal and exhaust pipe temps

    Working on my pedal positioning today. I have found during go carting that the pedal usage is working fine for my size 13 feet but I am unable to get my foot to the left of the clutch pedal to stretch it out when not shifting gears. I had previously mounted both the brake and clutch pedal as far left as they could go.

    I decided to try the clutch pedal as far right as it could go:


    This proved to be just to tight between the brake and clutch pedal. Next I tried the center mount position on the clutch pedal:

    This worked out quite well. Very nice for shifting and I can get my leg stretched out to the left of the pedal. It is amazing how that has improved my overall comfort in the car. At 6'3" and size 13 feet I need all the space I can get. Amazing what a 1/2" adjustment will do.

    The weather continues to be great. Spending some more time go carting around the neighborhood. After about a 15 minute drive today I was curious about the exhaust pipe temps as I am always warning people to be careful exiting the vehicle. I do have heat shields installed on the pipe. Out of curiosity I took some temp readings right after I got out.

    The header at the motor was 228 F
    The Jpipe was at 161
    The side pipe just behind the flange was 136
    The pipe at the tip was 83
    The heat shield was 70 and the ambient temp is right at 70.

    This data is pretty much useless but I found it interesting anyways. I am sure after a longer harder run things will be much hotter. I also wonder how much of an additional cooling effect I get by not having a body and the pipes getting maximum airflow.
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 11-22-2016 at 09:35 PM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  12. #292
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    I like your heat data. I am putting a second layer of heat shield material on the inside and front walls of the footboxes to protect against all that heat getting on my feet. Did you happen to check what the temperature was on the inside front of the DS footbox after your drive?
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  13. #293
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    I like your heat data. I am putting a second layer of heat shield material on the inside and front walls of the footboxes to protect against all that heat getting on my feet. Did you happen to check what the temperature was on the inside front of the DS footbox after your drive?
    Funny you should mention that. I was just thinking yesterday that with all my drives I have never felt any sort of hotness in the foot box area. I attribute this to two things. First the longest I have ever run the car is about 15 minutes and second without a body they are getting max airflow over them for cooling. I expect with longer duration drives with the body on it will be much different. I saw in another build thread someone applied heat shield on the outside of the foot box just behind the pipes. I am considering doing that.
    I will take a reading on the outside and inside of the footbox after my next drive and let you know.

  14. #294
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    With all due respect to all those builders that have fabbed some great looking heat shields on the engine side of the footbox, I haven't found additional heat shielding necessary. With a heat and sound product on the inside of the footboxes (I use Lizard Skin, but there are lots of good choices) plus carpet, in 5+ seasons, 10-12K miles (I've lost track) and all kinds of weather including really hot, I haven't noticed heat radiating from the footbox panels. Same for the passenger side. I don't have the data because it was several years ago, but I did some sampling of the footbox panels nearest to the exhaust headers with an infrared thermometer after some long cruising runs. As long as there was some separation, the heat transfer wasn't nearly as much as you might think. Air filtration from the engine compartment will be felt immediately though. Makes me wonder if what some feel as radiated heat is actually air leaking in. Getting everything sealed up is critical.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  15. #295
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I'm kinda' with edwardb...nothing out of the ordinary in mine, just cheap Reflectix insulation and carpet with no vents yet in all of my years and miles, many of them on 90 degree days &/or stop and go traffic I have never thought to myself "Man, my feet sure are hot"

    OK, now back to your regularly scheduled build thread!

    Jeff

  16. #296
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul and Jeff. Your experience in these type issues is always appreciated by this newbie! One aspect of the build I really enjoy is coming up with solutions to issues that come up. It is sometimes hard to differentiate what is actually needed vs what just seems like a good idea other builders have come up with. Thanks for the help.

    FWIW after I drove today I put the temp gun on the headers and they were about 260. The exterior wall of the drivers front footbox was 86 and the interior wall was 74. More useless data but I think the above advice is pretty solid.
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 11-23-2016 at 06:00 PM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  17. #297
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    interior work

    Working on a few interior projects today. Luckily my Mom came to town for the holiday with her sewing machine in tow so I could put her to work.

    My first issue was the seat belts. I ordered some orange belts to match my body stripe and for a little extra color accent. Not sure about the simpsons that come with the kit but these were way to long. I decided to cut them down.

    I figured the appropriate length with a decent margin of adjustability and cut them. Then I treated the end with a flame to melt it a bit and keep the edge from fraying. That worked quite well and probably would have been fine just like that.


    Since Mom was here I had her fold them over and sew a nice edge on them to look more factory made.


    Next up was the shifter boot. My plan was to make one from scratch with extra leather I had on hand. I had previously ordered a leather boot for the traditional shifter that came with the kit. My goal is to be able to use both and ultimately when I get rid of the car I will take my fighter stick out and put the original one in so I needed two boots total. Once I determined figuring out the template to make one from scratch and have it fit perfectly was beyond my brain power I decided to just modify the hole in the one I had ordered. I will just order another one for the original stick.

    Here it is installed. Really have been enjoying driving the car with this shifter and now I love the finished look.

    After that I had one last sewing project. I wanted a pocket for my cell phone and sunglasses. I figured a little pocket made out of some leftover leather I had from the transmission tunnel cover placed on the drivers side of the tunnel down by my right leg would work good. This area is also just below my usb plug so I can run a short charging cord from the plug to the pocket and keep it out of the way. The camera flash lights it up pretty good but in normal lighting conditions it is not really that noticeable.


    Another beautiful day meant another go cart ride. Had to take Mom for her first ride. Passed 50 miles today. Beginning to wonder what the record is for most go cart miles? haha
    I did talk to Jeff at Whitby this week and he indicated another 6-8 weeks until the body is ready. That will be right about the window he told me to expect when I dropped it off. I am hopeful that will hold up. I am getting pretty low on tasks to accomplish before the body is on. I guess I will just have to keep driving it then.
    Hope everyone has a wonderful Thanksgiving!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  18. #298
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    drivers footbox panels

    Small update today. I did the final install of the rest of the drivers foot box panels. I am pretty confident I will not need to access anything in this area. I had considered using rivet nuts for the removable top plate but decided it is so easy to drill rivets out that I would just go ahead and rivet it in place. I did deviate from the instructions just a bit. I am thinking it is highly likely at some point in the future I will need access to this area. So for the two top pieces on the inside top of the footbox I did not use any silicone. I just riveted it. That way when I need to get in there it should be a little easier.

    It was another beautiful day so I went for a go cart ride again. I was having some concern about my brakes. I have never driven a car with manual brakes. I was unsure and had no real way of knowing if the braking force that I was getting was appropriate. I had a friend that has a MK3 and also some race cars come over. He indicated he though the brakes were working very well so i was glad to hear that.

    If you have been following this build you have seen mention of the issues I have had with my SCT X4 tuner communicating with the car. My X3 works great. At the suggestion of a Ford tech support supervisor I have become friendly with I took my PCM off the car and sent that and the tuner into Ford for a diagnostic check. I won't be able to drive the car for a week or two until that gets back. Curious if they will figure anything out.

    Now that I have over 50 miles on the car and multiple heat cycles combined with the fact that the car is not drivable I plan to put it up on jack stands and go back through everything checking all the fasteners and everything I have done up to this point. I figure this is a good time to go back and recheck everything as I make final preparations for body installation. My list of items to accomplish before the body is on is almost complete.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  19. #299
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Your build is really making great progress. Good idea to go over everything after the driving you've done. I'll be interested to hear what Ford finds out with your PCM. FYI, and maybe you know this already, those two panels you're talking about can't be removed once the body is on. Doesn't hurt that you didn't use silicone IMO since they're not too structural at that point. Do make sure they don't leak though. Of course the body can be removed (and guys do it all the time) but it's not a small task and not something you would do without a major reason. You'll especially feel that way after it's painted.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  20. #300
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Your build is really making great progress. Good idea to go over everything after the driving you've done. I'll be interested to hear what Ford finds out with your PCM. FYI, and maybe you know this already, those two panels you're talking about can't be removed once the body is on. Doesn't hurt that you didn't use silicone IMO since they're not too structural at that point. Do make sure they don't leak though. Of course the body can be removed (and guys do it all the time) but it's not a small task and not something you would do without a major reason. You'll especially feel that way after it's painted.
    Thanks Paul. That is the newbie in me shining through. I totally did not consider the body blocking those panels from being removed! Good to know. I cant imagine the way I have that compartment loaded up that it would be possible to change a master cylinder through that access panel. Sure hope I will never need to access that area. I may go back and revisit that and seal it up better to prevent leaking.

    I will be sure to let you know what the outcome is with the computer I sent to Ford.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  21. #301
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    wheel centers

    I had read of people having issues with the steel centers getting stuck or being very difficult to remove. I once agin decided to follow Edwardb's lead and install some set screws to keep the center piece from being able to spin within the wheel.

    I used 10-24 set screws in a 3/4" length. Cutting oil. A #25 drill bit. A 10-24 tap, silicone and a 90 degree pneumatic drill. I did have to shorten the handle on the tap so I had room to rotate it as the tap went in.



    The idea is to get the center piece positioned and then drill through both the wheel and the center cap. Then tap the hole and insert the set screw. This is the area I was trying to get the set screw through for the best effect.


    Prior to drilling you need to make sure the center piece position is right where you want it to be. I applied lots of tape to protect the wheel from the spinning drill head. I wanted to account for the thickness of the lug nut cover piece. I did not have anything that thickness to shim it with so I ended up putting the cover piece on upside down and then tightening down the spinner. This worked quite well. You just need to be careful taking the spinner on and off not to scratch the lug cover piece. I did not have an issue with them scratching though. In fact when I opened up the 4 small boxes each unit was contained in I realized I was missing 2 of the cover plates so I ended up using each one on two wheels while I wait for the other two to be shipped.


    Getting the hole drilled that precise was a little tricky for me. Not much margin of error. On the first wheel I missed it a little high. I still got good engagement with the set screw but wasn't super pleased. At this point I decided I would use some silicone as well around the perimeter to hold the center piece in position. So I refined my process a little on the second wheel. I went ahead and put the silicone on and stuck the center piece in the hole. Then I put the lug cover plate on inverted and then the spinner. Then I drilled and tapped the hole and inserted the set screw. I put a liberal amount of blue thread lock on the set screw.

    It worked really well. The lug cover plate covers the holes you drill and the center piece is pretty solidly affixed so hopefully no issues in the future trying to rotate the spinners off. Once again the learning curve on this was interesting to me. Took me 45-60 minutes for the first wheel and each one got easier and my hole location more right on as I went through the remaining 3 wheels. Down to about 15 minutes on the last one. Now that I have a good system I guess I will just have to build another one!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  22. #302
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    wheels and splash guards

    Small update today. I am running out of things to do until the body is finished.

    I got the wheels installed with the spinners and lug covers. Nothing to exciting but at this point I don't think the wheels will need to come off again until the body is complete so that is nice. I am really not to pleased with the finish on the spinner pieces. Particularly the recesses in the spinner arms. I am thinking of powder coating them to make them look a little better. I am considering a few options and may go as radical as color to match my stripe. Will have to think that over though.


    I got some spray on bed liner and applied that to the forward surface of the splash guard panels. I intend to do the inner wheel well areas on the body as well. Wish I would have done that before sending the body off to Whitby. I will just be very careful on application after it is done. I did tape off around the edge to make it easier for the bulb seal to go on. I wasn't sure how thick the finished product would be after applied. Now that I have done it I don't think it would have been an issue going all the way to the edge. With that being said I understand it is likely I will need to trim these some for best fit so my taped off area may end up gone after that anyways.


    I also spent a fair amount of time yesterday on the computer working on the insurance application. The car will be leaving my house soon to travel to Whitby for body install and I figured it was a prudent time to get insurance. The company wanted me to show the cost I have in this project so I went through every receipt and made a spreadsheet of what the parts have cost so far. I had another sheet of my total cost which included things like tools and miscellaneous cost. It is interesting to see what I have spent just on parts vs the total cost at this point. I know when I go to register the vehicle I will need that spreadsheet of the parts costs so the great state of Alabama can get their tax cut so I am glad to have knocked that out.

    I haven't been able to drive the go cart for about 10 days. I sent my Coyote PCM into Ford Racing for them to check something out. It is on the way back and will be here Monday. Looking forward to driving around the neighborhood some more.
    While the computer was gone and the car was unable to drive I put the car up on jack stands and throughly went back over EVERYTHING. I have 50 miles on it now and figured this was a good opportunity. I was quite pleased how everything is looking. Couple bolts needed a little tightening but other that that everything is good to go.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  23. #303
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    fixing another rookie mistake

    Previously when it came time to install the small top panel on the drivers side footbox I decided to just rivet it in place. It is so easy to drill out rivets I decided if I needed to get in there I could just drill them out. That was a great plan until I was looking at some other threads and realized once the body is in place I would not be able to get a drill on some of those rivets. I would really hate it if I need to get in there and it required removing the body to get those rivets out! I have had a couple times during this build where I have not really considered how the body would be sitting and what it will or will not allow access to. That is all part of the first timer learning curve I guess.

    I decided I needed to reevaluate that plan and install it with rivet nuts that were positioned where I would be able to get the fasteners out. I drilled and installed the rivnuts.


    That worked well for securing the panel but that left me with a bunch of previously drilled holes that would be unused and didn't look to great. I ended up installing the rivets in the holes but just in the top panel. Basically they will look riveted but not be attached. After that I drilled out the holes in the panel I was mounting it to so the diameter was big enough to allow the backside of the rivet to fit down into the hole and sit flush. Then I painted the fasteners to match and screwed it on. Not thrilled with the extra rivets being there but I figured it is better than empty holes and I did not want to order a new piece and go to the powder coater again. If the look ends up bothering me it will be easy to change out later.


    I was still having issues getting my SCT X4 tuner to communicate with the car. At the suggestion of Ford racing tech support I sent them my tuner and coyote pcm. I got it back Monday night. When I installed the pcm and cranked up the car it was running absolutely horrible. It gave me a DTC code dealing with the mass airflow sensor. The computer was gone about 10 days in which time the car just sat there. It always ran perfectly before. I find it highly unlikely the MAF sensor all the sudden failed right while the computer was gone. Ford is sending me another sensor. Maybe that will fix things but I am skeptical. The box with the pcm was delivered in a tremendous rainstorm and was wet. I fear moisture has got into the pcm and is causing my issues. I really don't know though. I am currently waiting for the new MAF sensor and if that does not fix it we will take a look at the pcm next. I love the modern reliability the Coyote should provide but it is a little concerning to get into a computer driven issue such as this with no way to get the motor serviced at this point. Hopefully I can get this resolved with conversations and parts sent from my contact at Ford racing. He has been extremely helpful so far.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  24. #304
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    The box with the pcm was delivered in a tremendous rainstorm and was wet. I fear moisture has got into the pcm and is causing my issues.
    Highly unlikely the PCM was damaged by a little moisture. Those things are made for the harsh environment under the hood. Including heat, cold, water, salt spray, etc. The internal circuit board is actually completely sealed with potting material during final assembly. One of the reasons they're basically not repairable. That plus all the miniature components surface mounted on the circuit board. Pretty certain they're all made similarly, but this one I have personal knowledge of. Spent lots of time at the plant in Texas with my former employer where these specific Ford modules are made.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-07-2016 at 04:04 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  25. #305
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Highly unlikely the PCM was damaged by a little moisture. Those things are made for the harsh environment under the hood. Including heat, cold, water, salt spray, etc. The internal circuit board is actually completely sealed with potting material during final assembly. One of the reasons they're basically not repairable. That plus all the miniature components surface mounted on the circuit board. Pretty certain they're all made similarly, but this one I have personal knowledge of. Spent lots of time at the plant in Texas with my former employer where these specific Ford modules are made.
    Well there you go Paul adding logic into my panic driven diagnosis! Haha
    That is good to know though. Thanks!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  26. #306
    Straversi's Avatar
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    That worked well for securing the panel but that left me with a bunch of previously drilled holes that would be unused and didn't look to great. I ended up installing the rivets in the holes but just in the top panel. Basically they will look riveted but not be attached. After that I drilled out the holes in the panel I was mounting it to so the diameter was big enough to allow the backside of the rivet to fit down into the hole and sit flush. Then I painted the fasteners to match and screwed it on. Not thrilled with the extra rivets being there but I figured it is better than empty holes and I did not want to order a new piece and go to the powder coater again. If the look ends up bothering me it will be easy to change out later.


    Creative fix. Thanks for posting. Even the little things are of great assistance to those of us following behind.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  27. #307
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    That worked well for securing the panel but that left me with a bunch of previously drilled holes that would be unused and didn't look to great. I ended up installing the rivets in the holes but just in the top panel. Basically they will look riveted but not be attached. After that I drilled out the holes in the panel I was mounting it to so the diameter was big enough to allow the backside of the rivet to fit down into the hole and sit flush. Then I painted the fasteners to match and screwed it on. Not thrilled with the extra rivets being there but I figured it is better than empty holes and I did not want to order a new piece and go to the powder coater again. If the look ends up bothering me it will be easy to change out later.


    Creative fix. Thanks for posting. Even the little things are of great assistance to those of us following behind.
    -Steve
    Thanks Steve. I have 3-4 others holes in the car that were poorly positioned that now have a fake rivet in them. This was the first mass substitution! Certainly not optimal but nobody will ever know but me and whoever is reading this.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  28. #308
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Worked on the seat mounting brackets today. I had previously mentioned how I purchased some mounting brackets made by Kirkey for the high back seats. These allowed me to mount the seats with a little bit of recline. When the brackets attached to the seat the alignment to the floor did not provide a suitable point to bolt the seat into the frame. I decided to make some plates that I could attach the seat to and then attach the plate to the floor. Since I can not get bolts through with the seat in position it was a little tricky getting everything lined up perfectly.

    The first step was to mount the brackets to the seat and make some wood templates.


    Next I removed the seat from the brackets after marking where they hit the wood. I drilled holes through the bracket into the wood and through the floor plate. Ultimately these bolts will be bolted through the floor. That will help slightly but I didn't feel the floor was strong enough to hold the seats by itself.


    Once I determined my idea would work with the wood templates I got a piece of 1/8 steel plate and cut them out.

    Then I transferred the holes from the wood template to the steel plate. These four bolts in the picture are the ones that will also go through the floor. I reattached the seat just to make sure everything lined up perfectly.


    After that I again removed the seat and put the bracket back on the floor. Then I used the four bolts that go through the mounting bracket to hold everything in position. After that I drilled and tapped 4 holes into the frame tubes.


    These seats are not going anywhere with this setup. Next I am going to clean up the parts and put a coat of paint on the steel just to prevent any future rust. I will put the carpet over the plates and just have the seat mount bracket sticking up. I also intend to add a brace at the rear of the seat to the back wall. I am pretty confident I will not have a problem with the seat position when I go to put the body on but just in case I will wait until final assembly to work on the rear bracing.

    Between the mounting and the seat heaters I have spent quite a bit of time on the seats. Funny how that works out. Prior to the project I just figured I would order some seats and put them in. Much more complicated than I anticipated. I enjoy the part of the build when you have to figure things out with your own solutions.
    Now it is football time. Big game today! War Eagle
    I have been totally lurking for a while watching your build. It is looking great! I have the same seat as you, but I was planning on putting them on sliders. From your experience, is that doable? I am shorter than you at 6' so I don't anticipate needing as much room.

  29. #309
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lahrs37 View Post
    I have been totally lurking for a while watching your build. It is looking great! I have the same seat as you, but I was planning on putting them on sliders. From your experience, is that doable? I am shorter than you at 6' so I don't anticipate needing as much room.
    I have never looked at sliders because I knew I did not want them. My main aversion to them was the seat sitting any higher than it had to and putting my head near or above the top of the windshield. At 6'3" I am comfortable in the car but it is still quite tight. If I were 6' there is still no way I would need a slider. I think at 6' and the seat all the way back it would be darn near perfect. Of course that does not really accommodate any shorter drivers. Some of my wife's friends have desires to drive my car. Perfect built in excuse when I tell them sorry you are to short and the seat does not adjust! haha

    I have spent a lot of time on those seats so i will add a few more comments. The seat brackets I bought allow a little recline which increased the comfort. The kirkey lumbar support I ordered from summit drastically increased my comfort in the car. In fact I have a neighbor that works from home that comes and helps me all the time when I need hands during the day. He loves going on go cart rides. After I put the lumbar in the drivers seat only and he sat in it he strongly requested one for the passenger side!
    The seat heaters work great installed in these seats. Cutting the foam away and inserting the heater and glueing the foam back was quite tedious but I am very glad I did it. I have no windshield yet and have driven the car in the low 40s. The seats keep me very warm. I think once the windshield and wind wings are in place driving with those in cooler weather will be quite nice. I am very satisfied I opted for seat heaters instead of the heater. (brand new heater for sale though at a great deal, I changed course after I ordered it)

    I was advised not to even think about installing those seats before the body was in place. That is why I came up with a system that will allow me to move the seat location on the plate relatively easy. The outside shoulder bolster is going to be very tight to the body. I have read lots of cases where guys have bent them in. I got some pictures of the body overhang and measurement at various locations around that seat. I am expecting to need to move the seat and possibly needing to bend the shoulder bolster when it comes time to put the seat in with the body on. One thing to think about with sliders is the position of that side bolster as the seat moves fore and aft in relation to the body. I will pass on the same advice as the experienced guys told me. Wait to permanently mount the seat or have a provision for adjustment after the body is on.

    In regards to the seat brackets I used. I think they are meant to attach to the seat with the flat part that mates to the floor on the outside. There just is not enough width in the cockpit to accommodate that setup. At first I just reversed them and had both flat parts under the seat. Then I realized on the side of the seat next to the door you have room for the bracket as it is intended. Since I had 4 total brackets, 2 of each type for the 2 seats I ended up using the two that were alike on the same seat and the other two that were alike on the other seat. Hopefully that makes sense. So basically the part of the seat next to the transmission tunnel has the bracket more under the seat and the side of the seat by the door has the bracket pointing out.

    Last thing and I have not addressed this yet is it is recommended that seat also be attached to the rear cockpit wall. I am debating whether this is necessary but it seems like a good idea. Working out a mounting system for the rear wall with the seat in a fixed position will require some thought. If the seat is on a slider that would really require some thought!

    Hope that is useful!
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 12-08-2016 at 01:34 PM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  30. #310
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    Wow, that is a ton of good information. Thanks! My use case is a little different because my wife is definitely going to drive the car too and she is significantly shorter than me. Hence sliders are a must and attaching the seat to the rear wall is impossible. You have me sold on the lumbar support, and I am curious about the recline. I have a feeling that will not play well with the sliders.
    One thing I am thinking about is embedding speakers into the head rests. I got the idea from my old Miata. It was amazing how well you hear, and it wasn't blaring it so everyone would be craning their necks.
    Anyway, keep up the great work!

  31. #311
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    engine dress up

    Today I made some badges to dress up the engine compartment a bit. This actually goes back 10 years to a Mustang I was doing and came across this product called Alumajet. They are very thin adhesive backed aluminum sheets you can put through a standard inkjet printer and make your own badges. After you print the sheets you spray them with clear coat and then peel off the adhesive 3m backing and put them in position. I was skeptical at first when I did these. I had the Mustang for 5 years and the badges looked as good the day I sold the car as the day I put them on. I will say they were in the engine compartment and not exposed to sunlight very often so I am sure that helped them not to have any fading.

    I had a couple sheets left over and in my office for the last 10 years so I figured I would give them another try. I gathered some images online and made up what I wanted to use. The trick was finding a printer that would work. You need an ink jet printer and the sheets can bend some but not a lot. Most printers now seem to feed the paper in from the front and it does a 180 and comes back out the front. That will not work. You basically need a printer that feeds from the rear and comes out the front. I spent hours driving around to 5 print shops in town. Nobody could help me. Then I started looking at neighbors houses for the right one and the 4th neighbor had what I needed. I printed them off. Let them dry and then sprayed with two coats of clear. Then I cut them out from the sheet and applied them. I did have to poke a hole in the center of the three pieces that went on the triple reservoir caps so the vent would remain functional.

    One additional detail that needs consideration if you do this. Ink jet printers can not print white. The sheets come in various colors including aluminum. If the logo you use has any white in it you need to have white sheets to start with.

    Here are some pics:




    I used gray and orange to match the future exterior paint


    Last edited by wareaglescott; 12-08-2016 at 09:24 PM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  32. #312
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    Scott, That is awesome. Cool to add that to your build. Unique touches. Len
    1972 Corvette Stingray 350 c.i. Manual Steering & Brakes
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  33. #313
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    i just finished reading through you're thread. Amazing progress! I'm in the researching phase now and have enjoyed following your build. Hopefully someday I'll have some hands on experience to share with the group.

  34. #314
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimi323 View Post
    i just finished reading through you're thread. Amazing progress! I'm in the researching phase now and have enjoyed following your build. Hopefully someday I'll have some hands on experience to share with the group.
    Thanks. This forum is full of some really great people that go the extra mile to help whenever they can. I think I built my car more from forum input than the instruction manual! I spent a lot of time researching ahead of time and it helped tremendously. Welcome to the forum. Feel free to ask any questions you come up with.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  35. #315
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    Scott-

    I really like your engine compartment labels! They look sharp, and add some interest in there.

    Like you have been doing all along, that extra attention to detail makes all the difference.

    Thanks for sharing all that you have!

    Regards,

    Steve

  36. #316
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Field trip to Whitby and paint samples

    Work took me to Greensboro, North Carolina yesterday so I took an opportunity to visit Whitby Motorcars and to meet Jeff Collins. My body has been at Whitby since July 20th. I had a transport company deliver it to them so I had never actually been there myself. It was great to lay eyes on the facility. Jeff has always been great to speak to on the phone so it was nice to meet him in person. He gave me a tour of the facility and introduced me to some of the other employees. They had quite a few Cobras there as well as some other factory five vehicles. I really enjoyed seeing it all.

    When my body was dropped there Jeff told me to expect 4-6 months. He said at times it has been longer but they have upped there ability to get cars though the process. I was very pleased with the work I saw and some of the more finished products. Looks great. I know I will be very pleased with my finished body. My body is still in line waiting to be worked on. Not exactly sure how long it will take. Late January will be the 6 month point. I am hopeful the body will be ready about then. At that time I will take my go cart up there and let them install the body and windshield.

    Here are a couple pics I took.


    The most exciting part of the field trip was getting my color samples I had been waiting for. I am in the process of choosing between these colors to come up with my body and stripe colors. The stripe will be one of the oranges. I am also doing something a little non standard with the stripe. #1 is to dark but the other two grays are in contention for main body color.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  37. #317
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WIS89 View Post
    Scott-

    I really like your engine compartment labels! They look sharp, and add some interest in there.

    Like you have been doing all along, that extra attention to detail makes all the difference.

    Thanks for sharing all that you have!

    Regards,

    Steve
    Thanks Steve!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  38. #318
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Not that you need (or perhaps even want!) my opinion, but I like 3 & 4. Perhaps because it is most similar to your very nice artist rendering. I will look forward to seeing what you choose. Now if I can only make a decision on what colors to paint mine!! Glad the trip went well.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  39. #319
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input Kevin. 3&4 is definitely the leading vote getter among everyone I have asked. I think I'm pretty much decided on 4 for the stripe. 2 and 3 are pretty close for the body so I am still mulling that over.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  40. #320
    Senior Member Raceral's Avatar
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    Most people do not realize how much work goes into these bodies to get them straight. They are very wavy and every sq.inch has to be worked. The Hot Rod bodies don't even fit correctly and have to be really Frankensteined in order to get to fit. It will be worth the wait. My body wasn't even close to fitting. They said they had to add material to the doors to get the gaps right on one end . I had to take them my frame for final fitment. That's mine beside the blue one with the hood and trunk laying on it.
    Last edited by Raceral; 12-15-2016 at 10:41 AM.
    Thanks,
    Al Adkins
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