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Thread: 5 point harness forged eyebolt mounting question

  1. #1
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    5 point harness forged eyebolt mounting question

    I am trying to accommodate a seat slider on my driver's side, but dont have a lot of real estate for mounting the forged eye-bolts. In particular on the tunnel side, but both sides are tight. The seat mounts collide with the eye-bolts if I try to locate them at the rear floor X member corners. Should I just give up on the sliders and bolt the seat mounts to the frames? There has to be a way to make this work.

    The steel tank floor could accommodate the eye-bolts with large backing washers and nuts, but it has the slots cut all around the perimeter that would need to be reinforced, at least locally to the eye-bolts. Could this be an effective/safe solution?

    Any other suggestions given the tight seat fit?

    Thanks,

    Ben
    Last edited by ben1272; 08-18-2016 at 07:24 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member UnhipPopano's Avatar
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    As this is a safety concern, you should ask the FF Techs. That said, if the backer washers were to overlap the frame, it probably would be good enough for street use, but from other posts it sounds like the design rules for racing require a more stout solution.

  3. #3
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben1272 View Post
    I am trying to accommodate a seat slider on my driver's side, but dont have a lot of real estate for mounting the forged eye-bolts. In particular on the tunnel side, but both sides are tight. The seat mounts collide with the eye-bolts if I try to locate them at the rear floor X member corners. Should I just give up on the sliders and bolt the seat mounts to the frames? There has to be a way to make this work.

    The steel tank floor could accommodate the eye-bolts with large backing washers and nuts, but it has the slots cut all around the perimeter that would need to be reinforced, at least locally to the eye-bolts. Could this be an effective/safe solution?

    Any other suggestions given the tight seat fit?

    Thanks,

    Ben
    I have used the forged eyebolts on the drivers side as I have a seat on sliders. It is a tight fit and I used a 17" seat, but it does work. I did not use the front location mount as it is in the wrong spot , so mine is mounted to a mount I put on the floor. Mine is a R.
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  4. #4
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    I would not mount anything to the steel tank floor. Not strong enough. Needs to be on the tube frame.

    Consider welding brackets off the tube frame to move the mounting location where you need it. I skipped sliders because they raise the seat and even with a racing seat bolted to cross frame bar, I will just BARELY pass the broomstick test with my helmet on. Something to consider depending on your height (I'm only 6').

  5. #5
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    I would not mount anything to the steel tank floor. Not strong enough. Needs to be on the tube frame.

    Consider welding brackets off the tube frame to move the mounting location where you need it. I skipped sliders because they raise the seat and even with a racing seat bolted to cross frame bar, I will just BARELY pass the broomstick test with my helmet on. Something to consider depending on your height (I'm only 6').
    I used 1/8 steel plate under the seat area (on top of the x bars) and this is where my eyebolt is placed, I agree I would not bolt anything to the floor that FFR puts in.
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  6. #6
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    My setup looks like some others that have been posted before, but here is what I am starting with. I think I am going to cut some 1/4" steel bars that I can weld to the frame and drill for the eye-bolts. Hopefully 1/4" is thick enough to be robust even if cantilevered off the edge of the square frame tubing. I'll post another pic when I have a mock up or first bracket cut.

    IMG_7063.JPGIMG_7064.JPG

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    How about this bracket? It is 3/16" thick and it overhangs frame enough to get wrench on nut for eye-bolt. I'd do same thing on other side near tunnel, notched to clear the tunnel framework and again something similar at the center of the X for submarine belt. Thoughts anyone?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
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    Hindsight's Avatar
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    Looks good to me. Might want to go up to 1/4" but prob be fine at 3/16.

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