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Thread: FFR Headlight Switch high low beam toggle and indicator light

  1. #1
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    FFR Headlight Switch high low beam toggle and indicator light

    I can't seem to figure this part out. The FFR Headlight Switch is connected to the RF wiring harness plug. The ON/ON toggle switch is connected to the BRN-HIGH BEAM (side tab toggle) LT BLU-HDLT SW-DIMSW (center tab toggle) RED-LOW BEAM (side tab toggle) then the BRN-HI BEAM IND LT wire is attached to the blue indicator light and the indicator light is grounded. When I pull the Headlight Switch out to the on position the headlights don't come on until I flip the toggle switch. The indicator light never comes on. What am I missing, could it be a bad toggle or a bad Headlight Switch?

    FYI everything else works, running lights, blinkers blinker indicator lights, brake light, tag light.

    Only the headlights with the high low beam and the indicator aren't working properly.
    Last edited by DavidW; 08-29-2016 at 09:45 AM.

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    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    Check Headlight Switch ground and the HDLT fuse in the RF fusebox.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    Both ground and 15 amp fuse are good. The ground is attached to the Headlight Switch, the open male spade connector. I checked all the fuses, I blew the headlight fuse accedently when checking the switch and I replaced it with another 15amp fuse. When I pull the Headlight knob out to the first section, (running lights) then pull it out all the way nothing happens to the headlights until I flip the switch, the headlights then come on. So I only have low beam headlights with no indicator light.
    Last edited by DavidW; 08-29-2016 at 07:22 PM.

  4. #4
    Master Builder
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    Sounds like you have the toggle switch connected wrong . Does the toggle switch have three prongs on back, if so center should be from headlight one side to low beam and other side to high beam and indicator. I am assuming that the toggle switch double on switch and not a center off switch.
    Kenny

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Agreed sounds like you had the toggle switch wrong. Easy enough to check your wiring though. Put a voltmeter or test light on the LT BLU-HDLT SW-DIM SW wire. It should show +12V when the headlight switch is pulled to the second position. If so, your wiring and headlight switch are working. Jumper the LT BLU-HDLT SW-DIM SW to the RED-LOW BEAM wire and pull the headlight switch to the second position. The low beams should light. Then jumper the LT BLU-HDLT SW-DIM SW to the BRN-HIGH BEAM wire and pull the headlight switch to the second position. The high beams should light. Assuming all is working OK, those are the connections you should be making with the switch. You can confirm what pins on the switch to use with a VOM or continuity checker. The indicator light will light with the positive side hooked to the BRN-HIGH BEAM wire and negative to ground. If the high beams work the indicator has to also work.
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    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    All three have 12v when pulled out to the second position. When I put a jumper from blue to red and pull headlight switch to the second position the headlights come on. If I jump blue and brown high beam and pull the headlight switch to the second position nothing happens.
    Last edited by DavidW; 08-30-2016 at 08:25 PM.

  7. #7
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidW View Post
    All three have 12v when pulled out to the second position. When I put a jumper from blue to red and pull headlight switch to the second position the headlights come on. If I jump blue and brown high beam and pull the headlight switch to the second position nothing happens.
    You did disconnect all the wires from the switch before testing, right? I didn't say that, but assumed it would be understood. Your results don't make sense if the wires are loose. The RED-LOW BEAM and BRN-HIGH BEAM wires are just connections to the respective headlight bulb filaments. If they have voltage on them with nothing connected something is wrong in your wiring. Only the LT BLU-HDLT SW-DIM SW wire should have +12V because it's the source to power the lights.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Thought of one other thing to check. Make sure you have the 3-pin headlight bulb connector wire properly. That's the little pigtail that is included with the headlight assembly and needs to be connected to the RF front harness.

    White = high beam, Red = low beam, Black = ground.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  9. #9
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    Headlight wires.jpg

    I found the problem, see in the picture above. It seems someone at Ron Francis had me in a frenzy trying to find out what "I" did wrong during the wiring of the typical, straight forward wiring for the MKIV Roadster. I should have noticed it when connecting the QD but hey they only go together one way and why would it be wrong. I'm glad I tested all the lights. I guess this will give me some experience working with the weatherpack QD.

    Thanks for all the help and responses, I'm glad the support is here.

  10. #10
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidW View Post
    Headlight wires.jpg

    I found the problem, see in the picture above. It seems someone at Ron Francis had me in a frenzy trying to find out what "I" did wrong during the wiring of the typical, straight forward wiring for the MKIV Roadster. I should have noticed it when connecting the QD but hey they only go together one way and why would it be wrong. I'm glad I tested all the lights. I guess this will give me some experience working with the weatherpack QD.

    Thanks for all the help and responses, I'm glad the support is here.
    Yea, that would do it. Good catch. There's a special tool to get the pins out of a weatherpack style connector. You'll have a very difficult time without it. It's just a small round tube that goes down around the pin and pushes in the tabs so you can pull it out the back. The tool isn't expensive (< $10) and some guys have found some small tubing that's the right size and not used the tool. Otherwise you're likely to ruin the connector body or pins trying to get them out. Ask me how I know.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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