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Thread: Track Width Front to Rear

  1. #1
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    Sep 2013
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    Track Width Front to Rear

    Starting to rough in my 'final' homebrew alignment before inspection.

    My build is using the Godspeed lateral link and trailing arm kit, so there is some extra work to be done setting the track width front to rear. Hoping someone with more experience can sanity check my technique and results:

    I started by suspending a string parallel to the chassis rail on the drives side. Once I had this relatively good (as close as I could get, front was easy, rear is harder to get a measurement from the edge of the rail) I measured the offsets from the string to the center nut of the axel. I feel the front is the limiting factor since it's defined by the lower control arm and mounting points used. The rear is the issue since adjustment of the lateral links affects how far the knuckle is pushed out.

    Working front to back on the drivers side I was able to get the axle nuts within 3/16" of each other, with the rear track being wider than the front. The passenger side is causing more trouble -sitting at 1/4" but the upper link ran out of adjustment at +2* camber. I have to widen the passenger rear track slightly to get the camber to -1*, I imagine it will be another 1/4" out to get there and have some room left in the upper link for further adjustment.

    After setting the drivers track I squared up the rear toe then went to the front and set toe and maxed out the caster (5*) and camber -1*. Stalled out on passenger when I ran out of adjuster, so started looking for information about good/bad having a wider track in the rear.

    Really, my question is how are people setting their front to rear track widths? Squared or Staggered? I plan to try to even out the passenger and drivers rear differences. Right now I'm running the same width tires front and rear (this will change eventually), but is that even a concern when setting the track?

    Thanks all!
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  2. #2
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
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    May 2014
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    Front track width isn't really adjustable. Rear is only adjustable if both of your lower lateral links are adjustable. On my setup, only the rear of the two lower lateral links is adjustable as that is all that is required to set rear toe. So for me, when I string align, I don't even bother setting the string parallel to the car; instead I simply ensure the string connects to the front and rear conduit tubes (I use conduit tubes in jack stands, one front and one rear to connect the strings to) at the exact same width, then I ensure the measurement from the string to the front axle nut center is the same on each side, then I ensure the measurement from the string to the rear axle nut is the same on each side. I can't recall 100% but I'm pretty sure the rear track width is wider than the front. And no, front vs rear tire width doesn't matter. The axle nut is always going to be in the same spot regardless of tire width.

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