"original" set up for fresh air inlet in the shroud

[VeniceCobra]

My footboxes are... hell, literally!

I shopped around and find the ********** vent kit flappers, hose and flanges. I’m opting not to use inline motors for now. I sure I could always go back and install them later if I need.
I don’t want to use **********’s single hole front air vent ducts as I want to keep fresh air on my brakes.
So my other option was to use Cobra’s Earl front vent ducts. I remember they had 2 outlets, but I cannot find them anywhere.
(if anyone has a pair of these for sale, please feel free to pm me).

I search the web, and I found another option: Having the air inlet in the shroud as it used to be done on the “original” car (see the attached picture)… but, I’m not entirely convinced it will work and bring enough air in the footbox…

When it comes to discussing and finding solutions to a tech problem, you guys are amazing, so please insight me with your knowledge.

Will it be enough fresh air circulation to feed the footbox?
Do you think that with this setup, I should use the inline motors?
I was thinking to modify an eyeball (like the spot trim) to catch air as much air as possible.
(I still have no clue how I’m gone do that!)

Guys, what are your thoughts?
Thanks for your help.

Patrick

[David Hodgkins]

Since I closed up all of he openings (front wheel splash guards, radiator side, bottom and top metal, holes in front of driver's footbox, added fresh air vents) I found out that the hot air still comes around the sides and is MUCH HOTTER than before! Now my footboxes are MUCH hotter than they used to be. If you can stuff foam into the gap on the sides that will really help kill the heat. I have some in there now but there are spots on the top and bottom that I missed and the air coming through there is unbearable. Now about the vents. If you use an inline 3" fan with the hole in the fan cowling as shown I think you will be fine. Just remember, stopping the air from leaching into the cockpit from the engine is MANDATORY or the vents will be non-effective, based on my experience.

HTH,

[Cobradavid]

I'm guessing that pulling air from the radiator inlet will work, but you'll definitely want a blower to move the air. I don't think you'll get much ram-air effect there since most of the ram air coming in the big nose opening will be going through the radiator.

I used the brake duct opening to pull air to my driver side footbox. Go faster than ~25 mph and I get good flow just from the ram air. When I'm stopped or moving slowly, I turn on the blower. My entire system (including butterfly valve) is home made. For the fan, I use a bilge fan blower purchased at a boating store. It works great.

I agree with David H. You need to block off all the areas between the footbox and the body so you don't get engine compartment air sneaking into the cockpit.

David

[VeniceCobra]

I'm guessing that pulling air from the radiator inlet will work, but you'll definitely want a blower to move the air.
David

Agree with you as it is not a frontal inlet, the flow of incoming air won't be enough. Then as you said at low speed the blower would be perfect.

[VeniceCobra]

This is what I'm going to use for the inlet in the shroud:
http://actoncobra.com/index.php?main...roducts_id=347

It seems pretty cool

[Cobradavid]

I used the brake duct opening to pull air to my driver side footbox. Go faster than ~25 mph and I get good flow just from the ram air. When I'm stopped or moving slowly, I turn on the blower. My entire system (including butterfly valve) is home made. For the fan, I use a bilge fan blower purchased at a boating store. It works great.
David

Here are pics of the system.

The butterfly valve, assembled and painted:


The valve housing is a PVC pipe and a metal duct transition. The valve is made from two pipe caps. I cut the "knock out" centers from both caps. One center section is the butterfly flapper, and the other cap's ring is cut in half to make a C-shaped stop for the flapper. Coat hanger wire was bent to shape and epoxied to the flapper.


Assembled and painted valve closed (you can see the extra, yellow knock-out center in the upper left):



Valve opened:



The valve is mounted in a hole cut through the footbox forward wall. The valve is opened and closed via a manual choke cable (pull to open the valve), which has the handle attached to the transverse 2 x 2 member below the dash.

Valve closed:



Valve open:



Another metal duct transition piece was modified to make a scoop for the brake cooling duct opening. I made brackets to mount the scoop and for mounting the bilge blower. Pipe clamps attach the metal dryer duct sections to the scoop and the bilge blower, and blower to the valve housing. The wires for the blower motor run through the rear duct to a switch on the dash. The rear duct passes through a hole in the elephant ear panel. Zip ties hold the duct sections in place.


Scoop:



Blower and rear duct:




The system has worked perfectly since I installed it in May 2010. The few times I had to remove the elephant ear panel, I just cut the zip ties, detach the rear duct from the blower motor, disconnect the wires, and pull the duct through the panel as I pull the panel out of the wheel well.


David