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Thread: #9196 475hp 347 MK4 Roadster Build (Insurance and Plates)

  1. #201
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Thanks godad, hope your daughter is doing well. You also have a big engine day coming up as well. Watching...

  2. #202
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Baby is in the cradle; congratulations Brandon! I saw that intake spacer you mentioned...

    Chris
    Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.

    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  3. #203
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Cg you could sell off all the eeciv tech, make money, buy the fitech, have a much lighter carb look, and versatile combo. I sold all my eeciv stuff and made a couple thousand on it over at corral.net

  4. #204
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    Cg you could sell off all the eeciv tech, make money, buy the fitech, have a much lighter carb look, and versatile combo. I sold all my eeciv stuff and made a couple thousand on it over at corral.net
    True Dat, but guess I'm different and like the old school EFI 5.0 look. I ceramic coated my air tube satin black and blacked out the valve covers & upper/lower intake to "murder out" my engine. I'm impressed with the tuneability of the Pro-M Racing engine management system and shockingly taught this old dog some new tricks with some advanced engine tuning via a laptop. The only things left on my car is soundproofing & carpeting...graduation probably next month.

    I'm not the engine builder you are and have been truly impressed with your industriousness, knowledge and skills. I will be really curious where you go with body color, striping - chrome vs. blacked out...I'm thinking you are going to go a different or non-traditional route like mine.

    Chris
    Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.

    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  5. #205
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cgundermann View Post
    True Dat, but guess I'm different and like the old school EFI 5.0 look. I ceramic coated my air tube satin black and blacked out the valve covers & upper/lower intake to "murder out" my engine. I'm impressed with the tuneability of the Pro-M Racing engine management system and shockingly taught this old dog some new tricks with some advanced engine tuning via a laptop. The only things left on my car is soundproofing & carpeting...graduation probably next month.

    I'm not the engine builder you are and have been truly impressed with your industriousness, knowledge and skills. I will be really curious where you go with body color, striping - chrome vs. blacked out...I'm thinking you are going to go a different or non-traditional route like mine.

    Chris
    I appreciate your build as I am a fox lover and you are right it is a great system with lots of options and ability to fine tune.

    I am probably going to do things a bit different. As you said I see the car differently and will make it my own, as you have done.

    It will be some time before I am close to graduating.

  6. #206
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    Some people are switching to the linkages from the vendors and they are probably the best route but I dont have a big budget so I am utilizing as much of the stock ffr stuff as possible.

    The success to the cable is to either go with a heavy duty Lokar unit or go with the stock ffr cable. The trick to the ffr cable is to not bend it much. If you use it in a large loop it doesn't require anything more than a smooth bend to the throttle. The caveat is that your throttle has to have the ability to pull from the front rather than the rear. I used a plastic bushing to adapt the ffr cable and set screw adapter to the throttle. I also used a bracket from the clutch cable to adapt for use on top the manifold. There is still some work to do and this is just a trial run but pulling from the front keeps the cable engagement very smooth. There is less friction in the cable when its configured this way. With the "S" bends it adds friction and reduces throttle reaction or you have to add additional springs to make up for the slowed movement.

    Here is what i came up with. Its still a work in progress. But it is working the way it is now.

    2017-12-18_04-56-46 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr
    Looks good; interested to see how it works for you. I’m using the standard FFR one with double/safety throttle springs and it works fine. Of course I don’t know any better...

    Chris
    Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.

    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  7. #207
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Battery tray, mount, install.

    The battery placement was a big question for me. I already had a large yellow top and wanted to be able to get it out of the way and utilize space that I see in other builds that wasnt being used. It was too tight in front of the motor and I didnt want to run wire to the trunk. This was the place I decided on. I used a 2013 batter tray from a chevrolet suburban. its bolted down with some nice hardware and I am going to add an "L" bracket on the underside to add rigidity. Its out of the way and everything electrical is all within a few feet of the major electrical.

    Battery tray installed and reinforced


    Battery on passenger footwell


    Battery, buss, solenoid, wiring.


    EFI wiring loom and battery

  8. #208
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    I started to wire the chassis and I setup the gas tank, the fan relay, the coil, and the other small signals that run through out the chassis.

    Mocked up EFI coil and fan relay.


    Fuel Tank wiring and inertia cutoff switch



    Further working on the wiring, the chassis had some personal and unique touches added this month.

    Hand laid, individual rolls of wire, braided chassis wiring loom


    Wife hand braiding my chassis wiring


    Hand braided chassis wiring


    Wiring taking place

  9. #209
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    I came up with this mount for my stock fuel filter so that I could go to the local parts store when I need some things. Be careful if you are using fuel line for efi since its under pressure. I used 30R9 hose that came with the kit. I hope it holds up. The junk that i had used in the past literally discentegrated from ethanol in the fuel. It was 30R7 read this article on why R7 is bad stuff for pump gas cars. https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/o...dern-fuel-hose

    EFI hardline fuel hose bracket


    Fuel Filter mount, hard line bracket

  10. #210
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Here is the car in the garage at the moment. Little by little things are getting done but I still have a tremendous way to go.



    Dream car in my dream garage



    Dream garage and the dream car

  11. #211
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Power steering rack installed. Got quite a few things planned for this and I will come back and update this post when I get more pump and lines installed.

    Power steering rack installed, sold the manual rack.


    Updated July 8th 2018 I used a kit from ebay that was about 150 bucks for the pulley, the bracket and the belt. All were purchased separately but from the same buyer. The belt was 57.3 gates brand done in the v coniguration. I may later do the S configuration to get more bite on the pulley but for now this is working great.







    Last edited by TexasAviator; 07-08-2018 at 03:23 PM.

  12. #212
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    RIVETS RIVETS AND MORE RIVETS

    I still have much to do on the sheet metal. Here are some neat tricks. I got the idea from a member here. I drilled holes in tape. I then made it unique to my build. I used spacing that I got from the plane that I fly on. Its aircraft spaced riveting and I did a some homework on strength in the riveting. Its another unique touch to my build that I thought would add a personal touch.



    Aircraft spacing rivet placement



    Using tape with holes drilled in it to get correct rivet spacing
    Last edited by TexasAviator; 01-28-2018 at 11:41 PM.

  13. #213
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Of course the holes get closer together with every revolution of tape Looking good Brandon!

    Jeff

  14. #214
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Thanks Jeff,

    Yes the number of rivets will increase as the tape gets used up in some sections. I am only using the tape on long runs, its easier to use a ruler on most of the car.

  15. #215
    bobl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    Battery tray, mount, install.

    The battery placement was a big question for me. I already had a large yellow top and wanted to be able to get it out of the way and utilize space that I see in other builds that wasnt being used. It was too tight in front of the motor and I didnt want to run wire to the trunk. This was the place I decided on. I used a 2013 batter tray from a chevrolet suburban. its bolted down with some nice hardware and I am going to add an "L" bracket on the underside to add rigidity. Its out of the way and everything electrical is all within a few feet of the major electrical.

    Battery tray installed and reinforced


    Battery on passenger footwell


    Battery, buss, solenoid, wiring.


    EFI wiring loom and battery
    Does momma know you stole her battery tray???
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Holley HP ECU, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 4.10 gears, A/C, PS, PB Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  16. #216
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    Thanks Jeff,

    Yes the number of rivets will increase as the tape gets used up in some sections. I am only using the tape on long runs, its easier to use a ruler on most of the car.
    I hope you realized that I was mostly just pulling your leg----you'd have to run a lot of tape to notice the change

    Jeff

  17. #217
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobl View Post
    Does momma know you stole her battery tray???
    Haha, she had a dual battery setup and the other one was not being used so I stole it. No she does not know but man it works great! I also went to autozone and bought a tie down kit for a chevy and it fits so well.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    I hope you realized that I was mostly just pulling your leg----you'd have to run a lot of tape to notice the change

    Jeff
    No worries its the truth. I am trying to make this thing as personal as possible. Hard to do when this car has been built by pros, and great people for 2 decades.

  18. #218
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    .
    .
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcG0dl1ksw0

    Here is another video of how I wired the MK4. There are dozens of spools of wire but I know where every wire goes and what it does. What a mess. Wish I had done the Ron Francis Wiring kit but again, like everything on this car its all built by me.

    I really like the functionality of the Grote unit. It runs brakes, signals, headlights, and hazards all from one switch.

    Tim Austin over on facebook asked me for the part number. Found it. 48282

  19. #219
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    RIVETS RIVETS AND MORE RIVETS

    I still have much to do on the sheet metal. Here are some neat tricks. I got the idea from a member here. I drilled holes in tape. I then made it unique to my build. I used spacing that I got from the plane that I fly on. Its aircraft spaced riveting and I did a some homework on strength in the riveting. Its another unique touch to my build that I thought would add a personal touch.



    Aircraft spacing rivet placement



    Using tape with holes drilled in it to get correct rivet spacing
    That looks very nice, - those panels/frame should be stout...that's a lot of riveting!

    Chris
    Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.

    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  20. #220
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Brandon, I gotta' tell you, ammeters make me nervous. Looks like yours pegs at 60 amps...What is your alternator capable of? Hopefully less than the meter's maximum. Maybe you have and I missed it but if not please install a fusable link or megafuse upstream of the meter to be safe.

    Jeff

  21. #221
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Brandon, I gotta' tell you, ammeters make me nervous. Looks like yours pegs at 60 amps...What is your alternator capable of? Hopefully less than the meter's maximum. Maybe you have and I missed it but if not please install a fusable link or megafuse upstream of the meter to be safe.

    Jeff
    I am torn on running one too. I keep going back and forth. The 60 amp ammeter is actually very stout, even the one included with the donor. The reason is that amps are only exceeded if demand is there for it. With every accessory on a car including power windows, locks, stereos and other goodies on a modern car, you wont see 60 amps at a single given time. If you happen to be unlocking your car with the stereo banging, flip the door locks, and have your flashers, headlights, and fogs on, you might see 60 amps of draw.

    I am not an electrician but I have dabbled with electrical and theory since i was 12. I have studied, built, and wired everything from a house, to a 1000 watt ham radio amp. Sold 6 of them as fast as I could make them. I have a pretty good background and this is my first time with the car wiring, I have done car audio for 20 years. Electronics is where I should have got my degree but I ended up loving flying so much I made Aerospace my focus.

    The battery or alternator on our cars will never pull more than the demand needed. I added up the headlights, tail lights, blower motor, fan motor, and fuel pump. If all pull full power it will still be less than 60 amps. I have a 100 amp circuit breaker on the main lead of the alternator for protection

  22. #222
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Got my air oil separator installed with a SN95 mustang PCV valve installed in the PS valve cover. This keeps the oil out of the intake and stops gumming up the pistons and valves.

    20180226_145432 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

    20180226_145459 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

    20180226_155527 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

  23. #223
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Some other things I got ordered and done today.

    Clips for the rear brake cables.
    Forward cable and equalizer for the brakes utilizing a new ford front cable system.
    Electrical Electrical and more electrical
    Installed ford mustang horns on the driver side support under the distribution block for the brakes.
    Installed a 100 amp breaker for the in cab accessories and electrical components.
    Installed the 30 amp fuel relay.
    Installed the turned fomoco brake rotors. Used but in great condition with plenty of life left in them.
    Installed some of the exhaust header bolts.
    Wired the horns from the install.
    More and more electrical all by hand. I strung every wire on the chassis by hand.
    Installed the radiator with the provided stainless steel hoses and the provided couplers and clamps.

    Parts
    Turned rotors. 60 dollars
    Heater core hoses 40 dollars
    Relays and misc electrical parts 100 dollars
    Heater hose with cap and filler neck 55 dollars
    Heater hose pressure reducer 10 dollars
    Brake parts, c clips, front cable to hand brake 55 dollars
    PCV valve 10 dollars
    Steeda Air oil separator 65 dollars
    9mm Wires Ford Racing 50 dollars.

    All from LMR.com

    20180226_145715 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

  24. #224
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    REAR SETUP

    16.5 Inches from roll bar center hole on left body hole.

    20180226_160530 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

    15.5 inches from roll bar center hole on left mount.
    20180226_160123 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

    Should leave me an inch of tuck for the rear tires.

    20180226_150130 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr


    20180226_153048 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

    FRONT SETUP

    20.5 Inches from hood opening to edge of wheel well

    20180226_160623 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

    20.5 inches from outside of tire to inside frame rail on the chassis

    20180226_160734 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

    Should leave me flush with the outter tire or better. With a bit of camber I should have a clean tuck.

  25. #225
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Here are some extra shots of the wheels and tires I ended up with.



    20180226_151228 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr


    Front 275/40ZR17 Tire on 17x9

    20180226_160807 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr


    Rear 315/35ZR17 Tire on 17x10.5

    20180226_161128 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr



    NT555 these are going to need some tirestickers.com

    20180226_153032 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr



    10.5 inch wide front tire and 12.5 inch rear tire

    20180226_150401 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

  26. #226
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Looks good Brandon; it's always exciting to get them up on their feet!

    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post

    FRONT SETUP

    20.5 Inches from hood opening to edge of wheel well...

    ...20.5 inches from outside of tire to inside frame rail on the chassis
    Not an exact indicator because the hood opening is not centered on the engine bay 3/4" square tubing. Which spindles? FFR, Fox and '94-'95 will get 275s under, but not by much. '96 and later will put them out a bit. You need to be sure your body guy knows to trim the wheelwell returns back.

  27. #227
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Looks good Brandon; it's always exciting to get them up on their feet!



    Not an exact indicator because the hood opening is not centered on the engine bay 3/4" square tubing. Which spindles? FFR, Fox and '94-'95 will get 275s under, but not by much. '96 and later will put them out a bit. You need to be sure your body guy knows to trim the wheelwell returns back.
    I know I was just getting an idea of where it may end up from the center of the wheel well.
    thanks for your knowledge and awareness of my thread. It is a sn95 spindle with the raised knuckle tie rod mount
    Last edited by TexasAviator; 02-27-2018 at 10:25 AM.

  28. #228
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Man, those wheels look sweet. Those are my favorite rims for Cobra replicas if going larger than 15". I think I asked this on your Facebook post, but what kind of rims are those?
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  29. #229
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    I'm sorry. Thought I got everyone on there. They are lmr.com bullit anthracite 17's. The full specs are on my first post in my build thread.

  30. #230
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    I'm sorry. Thought I got everyone on there. They are lmr.com bullit anthracite 17's. The full specs are on my first post in my build thread.
    Also, one of my favorites - looks awesome Brandon.

    Chris
    Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.

    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  31. #231

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Go Big Or Go Home!

    I'm looking forward to seeing what your car looks like with the body on.

    Good Luck & Hope Your Tire Plan Works Out!

  32. #232
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    I like 'em. I've looked at those wheels many times, nice to know that they work.
    I'm planning on the same sizes or maybe 335s in the rear. Tires look great.
    Jim

  33. #233
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cgundermann View Post
    Also, one of my favorites - looks awesome Brandon.

    Chris
    Thanks man, means a lot. I know you come from fox blood and I was hoping you would approve.

    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Go Big Or Go Home!

    I'm looking forward to seeing what your car looks like with the body on.

    Good Luck & Hope Your Tire Plan Works Out!
    Thanks GoDad, I hope your family is doing better and that you can continue to work on the car while taking care of your mom. I cant wait to see how it turns out but I think they are going to work out great.

    I checked the turn radius of the front tires today and they didnt rub anywhere with the body off. They stuff nicely and I put a small curly Q in the brake lines to tuck them behind the tire at full lock. Worked out great.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim1855 View Post
    I like 'em. I've looked at those wheels many times, nice to know that they work.
    I'm planning on the same sizes or maybe 335s in the rear. Tires look great.
    Jim
    A 335 would be crazy, hope the best for what you come up with. I cant believe how big th 315 fills out the rear of the car.

    I am also using the wider SN95 rear track width, so the backspacing works out great even with the wider axles.

  34. #234
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Messing around with the zip ties today.








  35. #235
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    Messing around with the zip ties today.







    Never seen that done before; that worked out slick!

    Chris
    Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.

    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  36. #236
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Hi Brandon,

    I noticed the back cockpit wall looks like it was riveted. Can you still get your upper trunk floor in place now?


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  37. #237
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Hi Brandon,

    I noticed the back cockpit wall looks like it was riveted. Can you still get your upper trunk floor in place now?

    Just now. Slid in pretty easy, just had to maneuver it around the roll bar mounts a bit. Not bad. No trimming needed either. But thanks for the looking out.

    2018-03-02_12-13-35 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

  38. #238
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Driveshaft is in.





    Last edited by TexasAviator; 03-16-2018 at 06:08 AM.

  39. #239
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I think David was asking about the trunk floor because it can be difficult to drill & rivet once the rear cockpit wall is in place.

    You're moving right along here recently Brandon!

    Jeff

  40. #240
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Hi Brandon,

    I noticed the back cockpit wall looks like it was riveted. Can you still get your upper trunk floor in place now?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    I think David was asking about the trunk floor because it can be difficult to drill & rivet once the rear cockpit wall is in place.

    You're moving right along here recently Brandon!

    Jeff
    Oh geesh you both are right. Wouldnt be the first time I worked ahead and had to move back a bit to adjust. That is part of the crazyness of this car. Its frustrating sometimes but still so much fun. I will figure this out but I may need to get creative.

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