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Thread: LearningCurve's 818C Build

  1. #1
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    LearningCurve's 818C Build

    The build process has officially started. Time to start a new thread.

    Quick recap. I picked up an 04 WRX with 168K miles at auction back in August. It started and went into gear but the rust on the body was quite extensive. I spent the next 8 weeks tearing the car down and cleaning up the parts. There is still a lot to be done with the old parts (engine and transmission included) but at least the process has started.

    The 818C kit was delivered at the beginning of November and other then completing the inventory there has not been much action. The options I went with were the powder coating, aluminum shifter, and upgraded vinyl interior.

    The goal for the car is to make it street legal, ~300hp, and to learn as much as I can along the way.



    Donor Car Teardown
    Last edited by LearningCurve; 12-29-2016 at 01:26 PM.
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  2. #2
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Great way to start the new year!

  3. #3
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    One of the things I did complete in the last week was reassembling the de-powered steering. I went the route of removing the inner seal so that there was no need to tie the two sides together with external fittings and tubing. I went as far as removing the chamber fittings and filled the holes with some JB weld. I also reused some of the old fittings (also filled with JB weld) to seal the valve assembly gear box. I did not weld the quill in the pinion assembly as I don't have a welder so I am hoping this won't make a noticeable difference. Overall it turned out well.

    https://goo.gl/photos/kyvH8i8pd9gvG2Ci8
    Last edited by LearningCurve; 01-11-2017 at 08:50 PM.
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  4. #4
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    The biggest holdup on making any progress over the last few weeks has been trying to find a place to store all of the body panels. My garage is already full of parts and there is just barely enough room to work. Most of the body panels I was able to store on this large self in our bedroom (the gf is being very supportive in this adventure). The hardtop was the biggest challenge of all. My garage ceiling is not super high so hanging it from there was not going to be an option. I had almost resorted to placing it on my deck and securing it down with a tarp but luckily it didn't have to come to that. My girlfriend's sister and brother-in-law offered to let me store it in their unfinished basement in their new home. I couldn't be more grateful. I had to rent a Uhaul cargo van (9') to get it over there but it was worth the cost knowing that it will be safe until I am ready for it. For those that are interested, the hardtop fits almost perfectly in the Uhaul cargo van.

    With the hardtop off the frame I was finally able to start making some progress with putting on the floor pans. Clecos are an impressive little device. I went ahead and bought a pneumatic rivet gun. It is a bit tedious to use since it does not want to eject the spent rivet and ends up getting jammed if I don't manually remove it each time. Still better than a hand operated rivet gun.

    https://goo.gl/photos/hahcGUutc4tKWR9y5
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  5. #5
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Glad to see you're up and running! Did you have a plan for attaching the seats? It might be tricky with the floor pan riveted in place - I waited to permanently attach mine after finalizing the seats.

  6. #6
    Senior Member fastzrex's Avatar
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    Good to see another build. I feel the pain; I delayed delivery of my 818C for almost a year due to space (other projects not going according to plan) and time. And storage of the body components take of a lot of space. Once completed, it will be worth your time!
    ~ Mark

    818C S/N 429ES: Start Date 1 September 2016
    2001 NB Miata LS3 V8 440 rwhp
    2004 Miata MazdaSpeed Factory Turbo

  7. #7
    Senior Member Loring's Avatar
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    Welcome to it. A lot of great folks here. Looking forward to progress pics.
    818C | Kit delivery: 3/19/16 | Status: Powertrain installed
    Daily: 2014 CTS-V - Fat and slow

  8. #8
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Glad to see you're up and running! Did you have a plan for attaching the seats? It might be tricky with the floor pan riveted in place - I waited to permanently attach mine after finalizing the seats.
    This had not occurred to me as I was just following the instructions for the manual. Hopefully it won't be that much of an issue.

  9. #9
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    I went ahead and had all of the bare metal parts powder coated. It was sort of a pain trying to keep track of the exact box I pulled them from but in the end I feel they turned out well.


    https://goo.gl/photos/R9pZMe5aHt9CQtRr7
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  10. #10
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    This past weekend I finished up the sheet metal for the firewall and started on the control arms. The sharkhide was slow to be delivered so I will have to go back and try to apply that to the aluminum that was already riveted on.

    https://goo.gl/photos/P6UyTAEATLwBmdqG7

    A few years ago I had the wheel bearings replaced on my 04 WRX. It ended up being rather expensive and since this is something I wanted to learn how to do I went ahead and purchased a shop press. Well that was delivered yesterday and in the process of putting it together I found that that jack was leaking pretty bad and the frame was missing a few parts. I hit up the seller (Ebay) and they said they would send me some replacements. We will see how that goes so with any luck I will be attempting to rebuild the spindles in the next week or so.
    Last edited by LearningCurve; 01-19-2017 at 08:23 PM.
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  11. #11
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    Replacement jack arrived so I started rebuilding the front knuckles. At this point I completely disassembled both knuckles and now I am debating on the best method to clean and paint them before reassembly. Earlier, I ran both knuckles through the electrolysis tank so other than some surface rust they are in pretty decent shape.

    Thus far I am pretty happy with the shop press. The new jack is in much better shape then the original and it had no problem pressing out the bearings. While not always the cheapest method, having the right tools makes the job so much easier.

    https://goo.gl/photos/EJ9zwMqjmAxv5tEn8
    Last edited by LearningCurve; 01-30-2017 at 08:24 PM.
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  12. #12
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    Oh man, been debating a press. Got a quick list of what it would be handy for? All I can ever think of is wheel bearings.

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    great progress thus far! I used to live in Gainesville VA, small world....

  14. #14
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    I started painting the front knuckle this weekend. I just went with some black caliper paint. This should be plenty durable enough. I also started installing the front suspension. I had to modify the brackets that were bolted to the control arms a bit. There was just too much of a weld bead to get the bolt flush with the bracket. By grinding down some of the excess weld I was able to get the bolt flush in the bracket which then allowed the strut bolt to slide through the eye much easier.

    https://goo.gl/photos/F1WxZWbYRaFHqAzc8
    Last edited by LearningCurve; 01-30-2017 at 08:23 PM.
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  15. #15
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    This weekend I finished rebuilding the front knuckles with new bearings and got them mocked up on the frame. I also installed the steering rack. I have not yet decided on brakes or rotors yet so I need to start thinking about those.

    https://goo.gl/photos/6Du15BVPREKxKQPf7

    After finishing up on the front knuckles I started taking the rears apart. The first one came apart without too much difficulty and have it to the point of being ready for cleaning and paint. As for the second one, I couldn't get the spindle to budge. I am using a 20 ton press. I ended up damaging my pressing tool from the amount of force being applied. I am trying to avoid having to buy a new one so I think I will take it over to a local mechanic and see if they can get to pressed out. I also still have to deal with the lateral link bolt that is still seized in both of the rear knuckles. I think I might be able to grind and drill the rest of that out though.

    https://goo.gl/photos/JEEhztJdfSbgJTfq5
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  16. #16
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    Use heat on those lateral link bolts. Once you have the bearings out, and if you can get hold of an acetylene torch, heat the area of the spindle where the bolt passes through. No need to get it red hot - maybe just the slightest shade of dark red at most. If you don't have access to an acetylene torch, the little Oxy/MAPP gas setups they sell at Home Depot will probably do the trick. Propane probably won't get it hot enough. The bolts look decent in your pictures. Might be worth salvaging.

  17. #17
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    If applying heat doesn't work, you could also try spraying everything with PB blaster and letting it sit for a few days. Then on the press, when loaded up, try tapping the spindle with a hammer (try hammering in the direction of the press load, not sideways!). The shock impulses can help wiggle the bearings free but you have to be careful not to hammer the whole thing out of the press, safety goggles will help. This method has worked form in the past with stubborn bearings. If you need a home depot map gas torch, let me know.

  18. #18
    Senior Member UnhipPopano's Avatar
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    Consider the problems you may have with the spindl if corrosion is so bad that you can not get it apart. At what point do you decide that it is a waste of money and time to continue, rather than to replace it?

  19. #19
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    I appreciate everyone's advice on the rear knuckle and spindle issue. I tried everything you guys mentioned (PB Blaster, tapping it with hammer, and applying some heat). I just could not get the thing to budge. I took it over to a mechanic not far from my house and he was able to press it out in about 20 minutes. I asked him how he did it and he said he did everything I did except for the heat. He recommended against applying heat to the knuckle as it could weaken the metal. The spindle will definitely need to be replaced but the knuckle is still in good shape. After getting the inner race press out I moved on to removing the sized bolt. I ended up drilling out the bolt from the one side of the knuckle and this then allowed me to break the other end free with a breaker bar.

    After cleaning up and painting the knuckles they look pretty good.

    https://goo.gl/photos/xsgNNVawqbY2zgNr5
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  20. #20
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    Wow those long bolts look worse than I thought from the earlier pictures.

    Heat won't weaken the cast metal parts - I think what you're referring to as the "knuckle" - as they are not heat-treated. Otherwise it'd be a poor choice for engine blocks.

    Glad you got it apart. Nothing more frustrating than rusted-together parts.

  21. #21
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    I spent the last few weekends trying to finish up rebuilding the rear axle housing and parking brake. I purchased a couple of new backing plates for the rear axle housing as as luck would have it the bolt holes did not like up completely so I spent a day grinding the holes out. I pressed in new bearings and so far they are looking good. I am now trying to remember where all of the parking brake pieces go and ensuring I have it all installed correctly.

    https://goo.gl/photos/wxLbdFSxdBskm3FY9

    Since I had to essentially cut out the rear suspension from the donor car due to the amount of rust, I have on order a new set of trailing arms and lateral links. I hope to get those by the end of the week.

    Not much else to report. I still have not decided on brakes yet. For a much as I would like a Wilwood big brake kit I just can't seem to justify the cost. I think I might just end up going with a new set of Power Stops.
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  22. #22
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    Finally got the rear knuckles and the parking brake rebuilt. Also got them mounted to the rear suspension.

    https://goo.gl/photos/wxLbdFSxdBskm3FY9

    Rear axles were cleaned up and rebuilt as well.

    https://goo.gl/photos/cVFT5CqH2jjkkdYKA

    The fuel pump assembly was in pretty bad shape from all of the rust so I cleaned that up and rebuilt it with a new Walbro.

    https://goo.gl/photos/Si5c7PpvArrUngYd9
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  23. #23
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    Now on to the scary stuff. I started tearing the engine down last weekend. I have all of the accessory parts off and am pretty much just left with the long block with the belt still attached. I took a ton of photos so when it comes time I should just be able to follow them in reverse to put it back together.

    https://goo.gl/photos/WvrNXBVvwiLtwbgE8

    If it is not already obvious, the next step is to get the belt and heads off without damaging any of the valves or other internals. I am still planning to go the route of a hybrid build using a new STI short block and reusing the old heads. Rebuilding this engine is really where I want to be able to do as much of it myself as I can. I am nervous about what it will take to get the heads into decent shape while ensuring that the new motor is reliable. I don't plan on going to crazy with this build. Worst case, if I get myself in too deep I will just outsource the rest of the rebuild.
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  24. #24
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    Best of luck removing the heads. Mine were bears. On the other hand, my steering knuckles were super easy, so maybe you've already paid the piper, so to speak.

  25. #25
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    This weekend I started tearing down the long block. I start with the timing belt removal procedure. Since I had not done this before it was good practice to ensure I fully understood the concepts of aligning all of the cam shafts and avoiding any valve interference. With the belt and pulleys off I a went ahead and removed the oil pump and water pump. After putting everything back together I start working on the cam shaft bolts. I had read what a pain these can be to get off and my experience was much the same. Using the old timing belt and the vise grip method I was able to break free 3 of the bolts with little difficulty. It had to the last bolt that broke my 10mm Allen socket and in the process broke one of the cam sprockets. I ended up drilling out the center of the bolt and then was able to break it free.

    https://goo.gl/photos/LP6pBpFKGDGFg2zWA

    One additional note. Before removing the timing belt I attempted testing the cylinder compression with a gauge I recently picked up off of amazon. I was only able to get any compression out of one of the cylinders and that only came out to 30PSI. During the compression stroke on the other three cylinders I can hear the air escaping by either the intake valves or the exhaust valves. Not great news but it means that I will probably have to outsource my heads to be rebuilt. Probably for the best.
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  26. #26
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    I did a leakdown on mine and only found one cylinder to lock up tight. It was an insurance wreck with a broken timing belt, but I can only see one bent valve. Others might be, but very slight. I've completely disassembled them, and the valve faces (that contact the seats) are concave rounded (140,000 miles, supposedly)

    For what it's worth, I don't think I would put much stock in a compression test if you had to turn the engine by hand, but I might be wrong.

  27. #27
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    This past weekend I took on the task of removing the cylinders heads from the engine. Again, documenting everything as I went along. There is lots of carbon build up on the valves and in the combustion chamber, which I also noticed when first removing the spark plugs. I also found the problem with getting no compression in one of the cylinders. A fairly large piece of one of the exhaust valves is missing. Obviously that will have to be replaced. I will have to do so research to see how much of the old components can be cleaned up and reused versus buying replacements. I know valves are not all the expensive but I want to be careful about going down that road of replacing everything since that will all start to add up quickly. Again, I am not looking for any crazy numbers from the build and to me it is more about the learning process.

    https://goo.gl/photos/iNfiMZi6JqnWudbE6
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  28. #28
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    The block and heads seem to be in good shape apart from needing a good cleaning. I couldn't see any cracks, even around the spark plug areas, which is a good sign. Never seen that type of valve failure though, that's interesting. I have a spare set of used heads if you need any components like valves (a couple are bent though but some should be good). I certainly got bit by the "replace everything" bug for sure, it's tough to resist since everything is already taken apart. Are you taking the block apart too?

  29. #29
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    Burned valves can have all sorts of interestingly shaped holes. If the valves were leaking so bad you couldn't get any compression, it's easy to see how they could burn so that might be it.

  30. #30
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    I removed the broken exhaust valve from the cylinder head and it is worse than I expected. The cylinder head also has a chunk of metal missing from it as well in the same location. Any ideas is this is repairable?

    https://goo.gl/photos/j9rE4qX1LgKkCiuo7

    I may take the remaining short block apart at some point but since I don't plan on reusing it, it would only be done as an act of curiosity.
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  31. #31
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    Where has all the time gone....

    As it turns out, I was told it is not advised to try and repair any damage to the heads where the valve seats. So this means I had to source another head from Ebay. I found one that had a few bent valves that I could use as a core have rebuilt. I disassembled the heads myself and dropped them off at AndrewTech to be cleaned, decked, and have a valve job done. I got them back a few weeks ago and started rebuilding them last weekend. They look brand new at this point. The only pieces I am still missing are the cylinder head plugs so I have added that to my growing list of needed parts.

    https://goo.gl/photos/4jbtGCtmVfJ4QGFm6
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  32. #32
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    While waiting for the heads to be cleaned and the new short block to arrive I went ahead and started cleaning a prepping other engine accessories and brackets.

    TGV Delete and Parts Cleanup:
    https://goo.gl/photos/hndqUsM2BLtra9YEA

    The new short block arrived and I must say I was less than thrilled with the packaging. The output shaft appears to have been been forced through the box on multiple occasions. I am hoping this is not a sign of any internal damage.

    New Short Block
    https://goo.gl/photos/eXf5KeoH7p883cBy8

    So after much research I settled on a hybrid (2.0 Head to 2.5 Block) build using the JE pistons to drop the compression ratio. I felt this option was the most cost effective for getting a forged piston at the correct compression ratio while avoiding the additional cost to have the heads chamber matched to the 2.5 block. Right now I am in the middle of installing the piston rings and making sure my gaps are correct.

    https://goo.gl/photos/sZJVYNwXddCsuhHL8
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  33. #33
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    What size are the old pistons you took out? I'm about to send my block off, and I need a set larger than standard (99.75mm? 100mm?).

  34. #34
    Senior Member EODTech87's Avatar
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    He said it was a new short block so it would be 99.5mm
    -Jason

  35. #35
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    Thanks.
    Last edited by turbomacncheese; 02-17-2018 at 03:55 PM.

  36. #36
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    I finished up with the pistons a few weeks ago and then got the new short block on the engine stand. With the heads bolted up (ARP studs) I went through the process of setting the correct lash and had to order up a few shimless buckets to get everything within the correct tolerance.

    https://goo.gl/photos/QpC8ApXTMoXsrX6y6


    As I have had the time I will add a piece or two to the engine. The process has been slow since I am still having to clean and prep parts as I go and I am still finding some parts that are beyond repair and require them to be ordered from the dealer. Eventually I will get back to actually building the car.

    Engine Progress:
    https://goo.gl/photos/53mPyuM9YsC1nPUm6

    Parts Cleanup:
    https://goo.gl/photos/pQvEvs4LLBzxiQAdA
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

  37. #37
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    The engine is looking real nice. I noticed your upper coolant cross over has the hard line going over the bell housing; depending on your intercooler plan (AWIC?) this may cause an annoying interference later. I had the same cross over originally but replaced it with one of these:
    coolant cross over.jpg
    They go for ~$30-40 on ebay and now is a good time to replace it since the intake manifold is off. Likewise, it's a good time to do Wayne's cooling mod.

  38. #38
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    do you plan on running AWIC? was wondering since it's a coupe it has the added roof vent for air to the engine. i wonder if the vents will allow enough air to the IC to keep temps down so that an AWIC isn't necessary?

  39. #39
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    Some guys have had good results building a 2-part plenum over the AAIC and keeping the ducting separate for both parts.

  40. #40
    Member LearningCurve's Avatar
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    Been a few months since I posted so I thought I would give a quick update.

    Engine was finished up in November and got it installed without too much trouble. Clutch and transmission went in smoothly as well. Getting the rear axles in was a pain since the only way I could figure out how to do it was to completely disassemble everything first.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/lIzzGAbJlAO9gJoh1

    Gas tank also went in. I did use some fuel cell foam and a hydramat to hopefully prevent any starvation issues.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/2PfhklPg6nueU6Aw1

    I also installed the brake and clutch lines. I am not real happy with the brake line routing and I am almost sure I will have some leaks given it was my first attempt at flaring. I will consider this my practice run and once I prime the lines, see what needs to be replaced and if I can route it any better.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/yXXmmAveE9IpBPTJ3

    Also got the radiator and AWIC installed. I am going with a hybrid BOV/BPV. The biggest pain for the AWIC was getting the re-circulation line connected. If the line coming off the BPV is not angled correctly, getting it to line up with the re-circulation line at the turbo inlet is a pain. Have not mounted the pump or run the lines from the intercooler yet.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/MluxcUmmptZ8df5r1

    Finally decided on the brakes and just finished up installing those last week.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/gjn2qHb0Nkxj9Poq1

    Up next is the wiring harness, which I plan to try and do myself.
    818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
    Daily: 2004 WRX
    Weekend: 2012 S4

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