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Thread: Making progress on my build...

  1. #561
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dallas_ View Post
    Looking good. Thanks for the update, I enjoy following your progress.
    Thanks John!

    All done but no adjustments made yet...
    The bulky steel hinge mounts are gone, now just simple studs off the main chassis tubes. With the FFR setup, my hatch would bind up at the corners of the body if I opened it more than maybe 50 degrees. Have about 85 degrees of arc now, limited by the hinge endpoint. Very solid and fluid. Much happier with this setup! No more sloppiness or play in closed position.





    Last edited by beeman; 09-02-2019 at 11:00 AM.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  2. Likes Procision-Auto, DSR-3 liked this post
  3. #562
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    I'm going to try something...

    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  4. #563
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    I had hoped to do something like this originally, but the FFR hatch hinge and bracket were in the way...





    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  5. #564
    Member Jkviper's Avatar
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    Nice job on the brake booster, also enjoying reading through your build thread.

  6. #565

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    No issues on the Bel Ray. It costs me more than I sell it for by the time shipping etc. is calculated in. Your source is the cheapest I have seen. I will likely pick some up from them also.
    www.myraceshop.com

    GTM solution kits
    Corvette and Race parts

  7. #566
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    Dave-

    You are a freaking magician!! I really admire what you are doing, and how you are getting it done!

    Your vision and execution are extraordinary, and I can't wait to see this thing done; but I am sure enjoying the build process, and the ride you are taking us on!!

    Keep up the great work!!

    Regards,

    Steve

  8. #567
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Dave

    What year 350z roadster trunk hinge did you use to make your hinge? Looks good and really increases the hatch opening area.

  9. #568
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Thanks Jkviper, Steve!

    Quote Originally Posted by jamesfr58 View Post
    Dave

    What year 350z roadster trunk hinge did you use to make your hinge? Looks good and really increases the hatch opening area.
    Any of the US spec 350z roadsters/convertible, I think 2004-2008. NOT the coupe/hatchback. It's not plug and play, but really pretty easy to do with some simple welding.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  10. #569
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    I think Iíll steal that hinge idea.

    update: I just bought a pair from eBay $18 shipped.
    Last edited by HardRocker; 09-05-2019 at 01:10 PM.

  11. #570
    Senior Member Taz Rules's Avatar
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    Loving this.

  12. #571
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Thanks Dave I have the hatch on now but still not happy with fit so will keep working on it and may change the hinges as the ones you made seem to work great.

  13. #572
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    Damn, you have all the answers for this monster!

    At times I wish I knew all of these solutions before starting my build. It makes me want to redo my car over and over.

    Your hatch contour is pretty much perfect with the roof line.
    Did you modify anything, or was it matched "out of the box"?
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Control Touch Screens
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    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  14. #573
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Procision-Auto View Post
    Damn, you have all the answers for this monster!

    At times I wish I knew all of these solutions before starting my build. It makes me want to redo my car over and over.

    Your hatch contour is pretty much perfect with the roof line.
    Did you modify anything, or was it matched "out of the box"?
    It didn't match perfectly out of the box. I think you are referring to this picture (I still have not made any adjustments after welding it in, may need to adjust slightly). The 350z hinges really control the position of the hatch leading edge. There is an adjustment screw built into the hinge as well that allows fine-tuning of the closed position. Before I installed the hinge, the driver's side leading edge of the hatch sat about 1/3" higher than it is in this picture. I placed a weight on that corner of the hatch to hold it symmetric to the passenger side of the hatch while I welded the mounting studs for the hinge to the GTM frame (hinge was already bolted to the hatch). Now it knows where to live in the closed position. The FFR hinges didn't have that control of position, too sloppy.

    Last edited by beeman; 09-17-2019 at 09:13 AM.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  15. #574
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    With all the cv and axle work does anyone know a source for the c clips? They have been hard to find.

  16. #575
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HardRocker View Post
    With all the cv and axle work does anyone know a source for the c clips? They have been hard to find.
    Yeah, I had the same experience.....here is a thread I started on that:

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...LE+SPRING+CLIP

    I ended up finding some in a box on the shelf here, so never did try to order any or find them to purchase....
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  17. #576
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    Thanks Shane. That 22727024 part number did the trick.

  18. #577
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    OK... Few updates. Life has been busy!
    Homemade front fuse/relay box ready for harness wrap.



    Confirming that the A/C condensor will fit behind the passenger side intake.





    Glassed in the 1/4 windows to match the Honda B-pillars.







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    Last edited by beeman; 11-05-2019 at 12:16 PM.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  19. #578
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Built up my airbox, almost done. Will make a scoop for the intake (probably 3D printed).











    Kind of a pain building the box to fit the body at the air intake and work around the chassis tube!



    Upgraded the 3D printer, I kept needing to print things that were too big for the build area on the old printer.




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    Last edited by beeman; 11-05-2019 at 12:19 PM.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  20. #579
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Just about finished up the airbox. Not trying to win any beauty pageants since the outside will be covered with heat shielding.





    Air filter is accessible, the red portion of the airbox will be held in place by screws/rivnuts.

    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  21. #580
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Quick update.
    Finishing up the wiring.
    Yamaha R1 projectors, but they are switched side-to-side so they had to be cracked open and new beam cutoffs made.




    Done, here's a Pic taken just below the cutoff and just above it.



    Last edited by beeman; 11-29-2019 at 08:57 PM.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  22. #581
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Finishing up the spoiler...



    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  23. #582
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Even back in '94 Honda was using variable resistors to control lighting, wipers, etc. So I'm having to tear switches apart and jump the internals to dumb them down a little.



    I wired up the turn signals to a standard flasher relay and FYI for you guys planning on running LED lights on the corners, the LEDs don't draw enough current to make the flasher relay even work. Ordered some flasher relays designed for the low draw of LEDs:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BTMDQM..._1.O4DbN6JQ5QG
    Last edited by beeman; 11-30-2019 at 11:03 AM.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

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  25. #583

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    Quote Originally Posted by beeman View Post
    I wired up the turn signals to a standard flasher relay and FYI for you guys planning on running LED lights on the corners, the LEDs don't draw enough current to make the flasher relay even work. Ordered some flasher relays designed for the low draw of LEDs:
    All you need to do is put a resistor across the LED leads to increase the draw when in use. The LED specific flashers are the official way to do it, but the resistors are the cheap and easy way to do it.
    www.myraceshop.com

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  26. #584
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    Beeman,

    here is a link to the load resistors that I used, for the led turn signal lights that were supplied by FFR.

    https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...g-fix/190/831/

    Steve

  27. #585
    Member Jkviper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beeman View Post
    I had to move the foot box forward and create a new firewall. I utilized 1/8" steel plate for the firewall. I incorporated modified Toyota pedals, converted from OEM hanging style to floor mounted. Utilizing C5 Corvette brake booster/master cylinder, Toyota 5/8" clutch master cylinder, Corvette fly by wire gas pedal converted to floor mounted. Driver footbox extended with sheetmetal into tunnel area, cooling lines will run outside the car similar to the 818.





    Clutch pedal converted to floor mount





    Corvette booster with shortened piston rod, fashioned a 1/2" aluminum spacer.



    Dave,

    What are your thoughts on adjusting brake bias? You and I have a similar setup to our mid engine kits and I am not sure if I will need to add a proportioning valve to either the front or the rear brakes or both to dial it in. Curious what you are thinking.

    Thanks,

    Joel

  28. #586
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Thanks Mike and Steve.
    Dave,

    What are your thoughts on adjusting brake bias? You and I have a similar setup to our mid engine kits and I am not sure if I will need to add a proportioning valve to either the front or the rear brakes or both to dial it in. Curious what you are thinking.

    Thanks,

    Joel
    Joel, are you running ABS? I'm running the OEM C5 ABS/EBCM so I'm not so concerned about front or rear lock-up, but there still may be some imbalance under track conditions. I looked through some of the C5 forums and usually guys are changing calipers to get more braking from the rear. Some of the C5 Track guys have ripped out the ABS and went with a Tilton/Wilwood setup. I don't think a variable proportioning valve is a great option in my situation as it would probably screw with the EBCM. I'm wanting the best option for street + track. Track only, I would probably ditch the ABS and booster entirely.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]89hp

  29. #587
    Member Jkviper's Avatar
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    No ABS, no track and the stock Gen V Camaro dual Master Cylinder(1” bore) with Gen 5 Camaro SS calipers. The stock Tilton master cylinders are 3/4” front and 7/8” rear so if my math is correct this setup sends 16% more pressure to the rear calipers. So my thinking is to maybe put the proportion valve on the front brakes and that way I could create similar balance.

    I have’t put much thought beyond that, but thought I’d ask since we are following similar paths.

  30. #588
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jkviper View Post
    No ABS, no track and the stock Gen V Camaro dual Master Cylinder(1” bore) with Gen 5 Camaro SS calipers. The stock Tilton master cylinders are 3/4” front and 7/8” rear so if my math is correct this setup sends 16% more pressure to the rear calipers. So my thinking is to maybe put the proportion valve on the front brakes and that way I could create similar balance.

    I have’t put much thought beyond that, but thought I’d ask since we are following similar paths.
    With the larger MC on the rear brakes, that should make less pressure than the fronts......more fluid flow, less pressure. You would have to go to smaller MC size to increase pressure.....
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  31. #589
    Member Jkviper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    With the larger MC on the rear brakes, that should make less pressure than the fronts......more fluid flow, less pressure. You would have to go to smaller MC size to increase pressure.....
    Thanks so much Shane for adding your input. i’m Glad I have it backward, now it makes more sense with what I would need to do to get good brake balance. Dave, didn’t mean to hijack your thread and appreciate your feedback as well.

  32. #590
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    I'm pretty proud of my redneck 8 channel wireless steering wheel button system!



    Lots of tedious soldering...



    Last edited by beeman; 12-06-2019 at 07:01 PM.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

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