Been super busy with life.
Went today and had the a/c lines crimped. Nice and simple, compact system. Will install after 1st start.
Another issue I knew I had to deal with was where to move the PCM to, no room left in FFR location due to surge tank, a/c components. This will work well.
It is time to get things cleaned up and painted, winding down the chassis fabrication.
Under dash space is at a premium, going with F40 style windshield defog.
Moving along, looks like you are making good progress, hope things keep going your way...
Thank you James.
A little distracted at the moment, but will be back to the GTM soon. My wife accuses me of ADHD, whatever that is...I think she's just stringing random letters together again...
Thank you James.
A little distracted at the moment, but will be back to the GTM soon. My wife accuses me of ADHD, whatever that is...I think she's just stringing random letters together again...
Any one does this to a car must have ADHD, does not matter what it means.
Well, it's officially running. Kooks headers and midpipes only. We kept getting a good start but the engine would die after about one second. Stock C5 PCM tune. Any ideas?
We kept trying to trace down fuel issues. Played around with the pump, relay, checked lines, filter, etc. Ran some starter fluid to confirm fuel issue, and it ran on the starter fluid.
Decided I'd post troubleshooting questions here for you guys... Then called the tuner at Lingenfelter. Took him about 2 seconds to realize the anti theft system was activating. Duh! So it seems that the anti theft system still allows spark and fuel pump, seems to deactivate the injectors? Pulled the PCM, it's off to the tuner for a base tune to be followed by a formal tune when it's driving.
That has kicked my butt a few times on my 818 when the immobilizer randomly stops sending the good to go signal to the ECU. I wound up wiring up a small LED to duplicate the flashing light in the OEM unit so I could tell when it is acting up. Hopefully you can just get it turned off on your ECU, will save you a ton of headaches.
Yes, the running for 1 second is a common thing with the VATS. Be sure to tell your tuner to deactivate the VATS and ALSO deactivate the steering column lock (choose "not fitted") or the VATS will come back to haunt you later on. Many guys in the beginning (when we were all sending our ECU's in to FFR to have them programmed) had this issue. FFR was turning off the VATS, but leaving the steering column lock "on". The car would start and run...sometimes for months....and then out of the blue, it would not start anymore (well, start for one second and die like what you have going on).
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts
I sent my pcm to FFR this summer for vats delete. They did delete vats but not the steering column...so vats would still kick in. I ended up getting HP Tuners module so I could properly delete vats and also to resolve other codes that popped up, etc. Wish I would have gone the HP Tuners route to start with.
Thanks guys. PCM is dropped off, time to get things really moving for spring driving.
Another project that delayed 1st start, a friend and I installed a Challenger 10k 2-post lift. Just got the 220 ran today, all bled and balanced. Pretty excited about it.
Getting the wiring into looms. Tuner has my PCM done with the preliminary tune, picking up today. Driver's side window mechanism in and functional, welded in new stops to match the right excursion. Getting the interior back in and interior panels mated up so they can be re-covered. Had to go back through this thread a couple of times to remember some things, like how the window mechanism mounts ...
Still quite a bit of work to do, but it's basically a go kart.
Tuned PCM back in, ready to go-kart. Tuner just says no high revs until dyno tune. Doing a custom exhaust behind the Kooks headers, let me know if anyone is interested in buying my Kooks cat back (everything minus the headers).
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts
Congrats on the progress. I see you are adding some steering wheel controls. Wondering if you are going wireless, or some other approach.
I’ve been eyeing the Raptor Pro and the Freewheel wireless systems. There is also a Raptor knockoff on eBay for less that 1/2 price. The other choice I am looking at is using the Krontec quick release which can pass 22wires through the quick release.
Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.
MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.
Congrats on the progress. I see you are adding some steering wheel controls. Wondering if you are going wireless, or some other approach.
I’ve been eyeing the Raptor Pro and the Freewheel wireless systems. There is also a Raptor knockoff on eBay for less that 1/2 price. The other choice I am looking at is using the Krontec quick release which can pass 22wires through the quick release.
Just curious what you are planning.
The off the shelf system was $1k+, so I made my own by basically using a couple of 4 channel car alarms which gives me 8 channels wireless. I briefly mentioned it a couple of pages back.
Check these in my car, with some work this could cost much lower than 1K, 6 input plus functioning Horn button all through the standard NRG quick disconnect contact ( 2 pins Ground and Signal), these is no other connections even for the lights, the output go from 0 to 12v for whatever you want.
Yeah, Mostafa, I lack the programming knowledge to do it that way. I think the ideal system is like the current OEMs with different resistors for each button function. I think that is how yours functions? Is yours Arduino based?
Arduino could be good development platform unfortunately is not really designed and packaged for car so NO i do not use Arduino for my car.
in past 10 years or so I have developed several different body control module, some with few outputs and some with lots of output, please check below.
I finally settled on newer concept ( not shown below ) and that is the one I did all my car BCM with, it is small and almost fits anywhere with IP67 packaging, it very fast very low power in ignition is off mode( under ma per module , I use 11 in my car), my own CAN message system, my own OS and has it own relatively simple programming language, some co workers/friends for last 5 years keep telling me I should sell these to others so now seriously still thinking about it, may be 2021 is the year.
For the steering solution I just use the same modules, the network on the wheel is a bit more complicated than a resistors divider, since it almost has 7 button and lights all in one, most cars windows and mirror have lots more than 1 wire, but they do use divider network to reduce connection pinouts.
if more needed something like this, I would do a PCB for the steering hardware part so it will be easier other wise lots it could be a tedious but not hard.
Pictures of my progress over time, spent lot of money and time for all iterations.
They are made by Aptiv (Formerly Delphi), designed for holding fuses in IP67 sealed box, may be diode and few small items.
I just made my designed to fit inside, it was LIN bus based but LIN bus was too slow and by the time I got power and ground and communication there was no much pins left, once I installed on my car noticed too much base wiring ( 3 ) and things got busy fast, so caned it.
New concept is are crazy good so far, have put it some GT40 for some automated functions for a local shop here ( for most part he builds cobra and GT40), and now working on full BCM for Corvette 68( all lights, window. lock, fans, fuel pump, fuel level sender, gauges, RPM and Speed, and more, using 8 modules. for now it has all been free of charge.
Everything in car get better power ( 12v) and much less wiring and easier wiring diagram to keep up with since most of interconnections is in CODE.
If I am going to sell then it will 2021 or never as I am getting to old for start up plus my regular day job, but I love this stuff so may be will happen.
If I am going to sell then it will 2021 or never as I am getting to old for start up plus my regular day job, but I love this stuff so may be will happen.
Mostafa
Seems if you have the skills and passion for car builds - and you do, and you have first hand experience with your own build - and the skills to put together custom car network packages for hotrods and anything else, what a game changer for future builds. More EV drivetrains will make it into cars as well, and with that probably the desire to have a modern freely configureable body wiring that doesn't require tearing into the harness for every addition or feature. Another advantage I can envision is that it simplifies troubleshooting in case a harness / feature isn't working right.
Restored GTM #82 w help of friends. Now cruising, tracking, upgrading.
I have never used the ISIS system, or whatever it is called now, but my question would be, what is different about what you are doing as opposed to the already available ISIS system?
Also, I have used ECUs and PDUs (Power Distribution Unit) in builds that communicate via CAN. Again, what are the advantages/differences in your style of system?
EDIT:I see you did post a couple of items here that are definitely a step above what ISIS does.
I have never used the ISIS system, or whatever it is called now, but my question would be, what is different about what you are doing as opposed to the already available ISIS system?
Also, I have used ECUs and PDUs (Power Distribution Unit) in builds that communicate via CAN. Again, what are the advantages/differences in your style of system?
EDIT:I see you did post a couple of items here that are definitely a step above what ISIS does.
To be honest I considered ISIS almost 10 years ago but as I looked more into it it was way too limiting for me, only thing in common may be they both use CAN bus but so do all cars today. All that breath are not all same
There are lot of difference, Few serious issues with ISIS that are not an issue with these.
I do not have ISIS, so below are just info from data sheet and few other users info
1. ISIS is too big for what it does.
2. Hard to fit places, like door and other places
3. A simple system cost you $1500, could easily run into 3 to 4K for more
4. Inputs limited to 5V only and can get damaged easily
5. Still all input have to go master so not much wiring saving
6. limited PWM outputs
7. output freq too low some thing, I think max is 500Hz.
8. Not customer programmable.
9. very limited analog inputs.
10. Switch must return ground back to master cell
11. Can not be left in your car active without battery discount more than few days, just think if you could have to disconnect you battery if you do not use your car fro few day
Some of reason I did this design.
1. Small in size but big heart., I use them in GTM door where there is almost no room, my whole door connect with only 6 pin connector which can easily be disconnect, (power, GND , two speaker wire and 2 can bus)
A. used for power mirrors
B. used for windows
C. used for popper
D. door open button, mine is on the door under the flat area close to door handle area
E. light on the button to show locked or unlocked
2. Used for my rad fan multi speed speed control
3. Extra temp sensor by radiator, but connection is only few inches from device
4. Control of the horton( heater) valve, if ii is left on with 12v gets supper hot and is not designed to be on all the time, so it first turn it on and then power the power to hold it in place
5. Power steering control, for speed vs assist level, ( I think you sell something for this that Enny did long time ago)
6. I use other sensors like fuel pressure, oil temp, engine bay coolant temp, oil level, all these connected in engine bay and then use by other in system if needed.
7. I have 2 engine bay fan that are controlled by these boxes, with full PWM so only runs max speed if engine bay is hot.
8, My hatch gate is powered and open by these,
9. MY hood is powered and open by these boxes ( need over 60 amp peak current)
10. All columns stuff is connected to then and functional, including the telescopic.
11, All radio are connected to this system
12. full functioning remote..
13 Full diagnostic, you can see all nodes voltage and some cases the current draw. check below example
14. Full system current, in my car every thing is connect to modules expect the ECU power
15. All my heater fans and ac is control by these and simulates the knobs.
16. General power to all device is much better, since one power line could be 12 or 10 guage depending on what they are doing but outputs 14 since they are so short to where they need go 16. Isis Draw several 100 ma per box, these draw under 1ma per box in ignition off mode, one does not have to disconnect battery all the time. most like typical cars with all the electronic
17. Low battery disconnect for items are may be Normandy on with ignition off, like radio and my dash so it comes on instantly, but if battery low ( x level ) it can turn them off.
18. Super simplified wiring, I think is one of the best part, is is basically excel sheet with function names, also mu dash shows all connections and name of function, I will attach picture
Hardware development cost is very high for these type of current and power it requires many rev and builds small package are expensive for assembly and not easy to do at home.
Basically these are small fits most places and lot of functionally that can be adopted to almost any BCM functions and some others things.
A bit left to imagination be glad to talk to you if anything specific you may need.
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Originally Posted by jamesfr58
