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Thread: John's EZ36R H6 818R Build

  1. #321
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    Rear under tray.jpg
    818 rear.jpg
    Mine is also moved out 4 inches, I found that it started to fit goofy any more than that.
    Last edited by Mitch Wright; 02-08-2018 at 06:11 PM.

  2. #322
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch Wright View Post
    Rear under tray.jpg
    818 rear.jpg
    Mine is also moved out 4 inches, I found that it started to fit goofy any more than that.
    Goofy, yah, that's the technical term I was looking for! Since I got my diffusor in the scratch and dent it did not come with strakes. Were there any placement instructions with yours? And roughly how long and deep are they?
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

  3. #323
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    No instructions that I saw on strake placement but to be fair I didn't go to the manual much. I just measured equal distance from center. I will take some measurements off the strakes tonight and post what I find.
    Last edited by Mitch Wright; 02-09-2018 at 08:44 AM.

  4. #324
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    The FFR strakes are 20” long
    12.5 from flush to 2.75”
    Will up load photos when I get in the house and have a WiFi connection.
    Strakes 1.JPG
    Strakes 2.JPG
    Last edited by Mitch Wright; 02-12-2018 at 10:34 AM.

  5. #325
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    Transaxle Cooler

    I was always planning to put in a transaxle cooler to help preserve the Subaru 5MT. So here is my version.

    First I removed the temperature sensor that I fitted into the transaxle drain plug and replaced it with a tee fitting. That allowed me to reinstall the temperature sensor and have an outlet for the oil that goes to the inline screen filter. From the filter we go to the oil pump. I welded on a couple small tabs so I could easily mount the pump to the chassis. I used a cheap oil/fuel scavenge pump I found on ebay. The pump pushes the oil up and through an oil cooler I had laying around from a previous car I had built. Finally the oil is returned to the rear of the transaxle through the block off plate supplied by FFR. Doing it this way I did not have to modify the transaxle fill tube to return the oil and I still get to use the dipstick.

    The pump will be controlled by the Megasquirt ECU. It will turn on at 180oF and turns off once the temperature drops to 175oF. I plan to direct air from one of the side scoops to the bottom of the cooler.

    All in all it was a very simple fabrication that I hope will pay dividends in the form of a longer lasting 5MT.

    IMG_20180213_100531.jpg IMG_20180211_161923.jpg IMG_20180213_124956.jpg IMG_20180213_125058.jpg IMG_20180213_095129.jpg
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  6. #326
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    Easy Access Engine Undertray

    The FFR diffusor stops way short of were it needs to so you have to fabricate your own under tray panels to fill the gaps for a smooth flat undertray.

    I wanted to be able to access the section under the engine quickly and easily for general maintenance, oil changes etc. So instead of bolting the panel in place, I used some quarter turn dzus fasteners and a slot. If you look at the 3rd picture you will see 2 pieces of aluminum angle iron riveted to the frame with a small gap that forms a 0.040" slot. The under tray slides smugly into that slot and is held firmly across the entire section without any fasteners. In the 4th picture you can see the quarter turn fasteners welded to the opposite side of the chassis. 5 quarter turn fasteners is all that you need to undo to get full access to the underside of the engine for maintenance.


    IMG_20180213_154125.jpg IMG_20180213_154217.jpg IMG_20180213_155311.jpg IMG_20180213_155257.jpg
    Last edited by Hobby Racer; 02-13-2018 at 08:33 PM.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

  7. #327
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    Really, really nice!
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  8. #328
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    With that temp sensor sticking out from the transmission, how hot do you think the transmission will get before the sensor sees 185? And I just might copy that under-tray! Beautiful!

  9. #329

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    agreed - mind if I copy that?
    Regarding the trans cooler - send details on that pump please if you can. And have you measured amp draw on the pump running? I'm using a smaller (Geo Prism) alternator and although I'm interested in a trans cooler, I also have to watch my power distribution closely.
    Thanks for sharing !

  10. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbomacncheese View Post
    With that temp sensor sticking out from the transmission, how hot do you think the transmission will get before the sensor sees 185? And I just might copy that under-tray! Beautiful!
    The temp sensor should be very accurate. The probe extends far inside the tee, just under the trans drain hole so it will be in contact with the main case's fluid.

    Quote Originally Posted by aquillen View Post
    agreed - mind if I copy that?
    Regarding the trans cooler - send details on that pump please if you can. And have you measured amp draw on the pump running? I'm using a smaller (Geo Prism) alternator and although I'm interested in a trans cooler, I also have to watch my power distribution closely.
    Thanks for sharing !
    The pump can be found on ebay by searching for "oil scavenge pump", here is an example. I have not measured the current draw, but it lists 5.0 amps on the label.

    As far as the undertray, copy away! If I can help with any other details let me know.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

  11. #331
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    I like it

  12. #332
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    Update on the trans cooler. The pump actually flows TOO much. Who would have thought the cheap Chinese pump would perform too well!

    Since the trans is a splash oiling design, there needs to be a pool of oil in the case for the gears to sling around. But in about 16-18 seconds the pump totally evacuates the trans housing of oil. I can hear a pitch change in the motor as it starts sucking air. The returning oil has not had enough time to return to the drain area. When the oil is hot and less viscous it will flow back to the drain faster, but the pump will also move more oil, so no help there.

    Maybe I can drop the input voltage to slow the pump or I could introduce a flow restriction. A flow restriction would make the pump work harder and draw more amps though. For reference the pump draws between 11.5 ~ 12 amps when pumping cold Redline 75w90.

    Any other ideas to reduce the flow
    Last edited by Hobby Racer; 02-23-2018 at 07:23 AM.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  13. #333
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    I would overfill by 1.5 times the volume of the cooler (to make up for the oil in the lines) and install a one way valve on the feed line to the pump to make sure it doesn't flow back into the trans, assuming the cooler is above the trans oil level.

  14. #334
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    You could use a stock Subaru fuel controller to deliver 12V modulated power to the oil pump and control duty cycle with a 0-5V signal line. The stock Subaru fuel pump draws about 9A @ 90 psi so if you dial down the controller on the oil pump to 75% or lower, you should be fine. Adding more trans fluid would probably help as well.

  15. #335
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    In principle, I agree with Retro. If the pump is a gear pump, the check valve may not be needed.

    Is it possible to move the line into the transmission from the rear plate to the top over the gears? From what I know, there is a small opening between the chamber that held the deferential that was removed and the gears. This way create a situation where that chamber would fill up, pressure then would go up to the point that the oil flow through the opening was the same as the pump. If you drill the opening larger than the fitting into the rear plate, then this would not happen, but then you would need to consider the metal shavings.

  16. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    I would overfill by 1.5 times the volume of the cooler (to make up for the oil in the lines) and install a one way valve on the feed line to the pump to make sure it doesn't flow back into the trans, assuming the cooler is above the trans oil level.
    I'm using a gear pump so back flow is not much of an issue. I already added additional fluid to account for the lines and cooler. The pump moves the oil to the back of the transmission faster than gravity can move it back to the front. It piles up in the rear section where the center differential used to be. I may do a test, pumping the oil back to the fill tube to see the results.

    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    You could use a stock Subaru fuel controller to deliver 12V modulated power to the oil pump and control duty cycle with a 0-5V signal line. The stock Subaru fuel pump draws about 9A @ 90 psi so if you dial down the controller on the oil pump to 75% or lower, you should be fine. Adding more trans fluid would probably help as well.
    I was thinking the same thing, except I was going to use a solid state relay controlled by the Megasquirt ECU. I can then adjust the PWM signal to get the motor RPM needed to produce the correct flow rate.

    Quote Originally Posted by UnhipPopano View Post
    In principle, I agree with Retro. If the pump is a gear pump, the check valve may not be needed.

    Is it possible to move the line into the transmission from the rear plate to the top over the gears? From what I know, there is a small opening between the chamber that held the deferential that was removed and the gears. This way create a situation where that chamber would fill up, pressure then would go up to the point that the oil flow through the opening was the same as the pump. If you drill the opening larger than the fitting into the rear plate, then this would not happen, but then you would need to consider the metal shavings.
    Other than the fill tube, there is no other easy place to return the fluid to the transmission. I did drill two small holes between the chambers back when I rebuilt the transmission, but they are not large enough to equal the diameter of the return line and I don't want to pull that apart again.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  17. #337
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    Tee the dipstick tube? Drill a hole and weld on a nipple or something, so you don't change the length. Or just remove the right amount of dipstick for the size of the tee....

  18. #338
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    On my LGT 5MT the oil cooler return is thru the unused VSS (Speedo) sensor hole. LGTs didn't use the VSS in the tranny, they had VSS on a wheel ABS. I'm not sure if you can do that on a WRX tranny, or what mods it would take. I know there is an aftermarket VSS you could use, MapDCCD Wheel speed sensor; http://mapdccd.com/vss.html.
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
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  19. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
    On my LGT 5MT the oil cooler return is thru the unused VSS (Speedo) sensor hole.
    I am using the VSS sensor.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  20. #340
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    We feed it back through the dipstick hole, as it's really not needed anymore. we use a gear pump as well, so we don't need the one way valve. I wrongly assumed you were using the diaphragm type.

  21. #341
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    We also run a filter on the feed side of the pump.IMG_0846.JPG

  22. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobby Racer View Post

    Any other ideas to reduce the flow
    You could use an intermittent wiper switch to adjust the duty cycle on the pump. Might have to use it to trigger a relay if it can't handle the current draw of the pump. Also don't know about the longevity since it would be in intermittent mode all the time. Maybe worth trying?
    818R Build date 10/31/15

  23. #343
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    I'm going with a Solid State Relay and will use the ECU to control the PWM signal to the relay. I should be able to control the pump RPM to start out slow at low temps ~170 and speed up to the speed I need as the temps rise. I'll post info after it done.

    Thank you everyone for the input!
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  24. #344
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    If you are going to go that way, why not dial it in with a rheostat? cheap, easy to adjust and effective, we use one for power steering in the Saker to lighten the effort when coming into the pits.

  25. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    If you are going to go that way, why not dial it in with a rheostat? cheap, easy to adjust and effective, we use one for power steering in the Saker to lighten the effort when coming into the pits.
    It is slightly more complicated to wire up, but there are a few benefits to doing it using PWM.

    1. Less heat generated
    2. Less current draw
    3. Variable pump speed based on trans temp
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  26. #346
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    You could do a dual return, one in the rear case and one in the VSS or dipstick holes.
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  27. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Presley View Post
    You could do a dual return, one in the rear case and one in the VSS or dipstick holes.
    I am using the VSS sensor so the only other spot would be the dipstick tube. I am hoping to keep the dipstick tube clear so I can use the dipstick. I'm thinking of running a tube from the back cover directly into the main case, bypassing the the chamber that formerly held the center differential. That should prevent the pooling of fluid back there.

    But in any case I am still going to PWM the motor to slow down the pump. At about 3 GPM, its too much volume, I need more like 1 GPM.

    TransView2.png
    Last edited by Hobby Racer; 02-19-2018 at 05:54 PM.
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  28. #348
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    Couldn’t you just remove the Center diff housing and tap a hole on top of the gears?
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  29. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canadian818 View Post
    Couldn’t you just remove the Center diff housing and tap a hole on top of the gears?
    I don't think there is room up top. Plus I would have to disassemble the transmission and I don't want to do that again Taking off the back cover is easy and not too messy, but once you remove the tail section it gets involved.
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  30. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobby Racer View Post
    I don't think there is room up top. Plus I would have to disassemble the transmission and I don't want to do that again Taking off the back cover is easy and not too messy, but once you remove the tail section it gets involved.
    can you remove the dip stick tube and weld a return to it and replace it in the trans?
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  31. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Presley View Post
    can you remove the dip stick tube and weld a return to it and replace it in the trans?
    I'll look into that. I think its pressed into the case. If I remove it, it may not fit back very snugly, but its worth a look.
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  32. #352
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    We just welded it in the car, used a steel male -6.

  33. #353
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    Sealing off the radiator to the underside of the hood



    Now that the front of the radiator is sealed off, it was time to seal off the back of the radiator to the under side of the hood. I started by fabricating some aluminum sheeting to fit the opening available. This proved much more intricate than sealing off the radiator intake. The outlet of my aftermarket radiator is angled toward the center of the car. This made routing the hose easy but now makes it harder to create the shroud as it needs to jog out and then back to fit around the hose.

    IMG_20180221_162155.jpg

    After many failed attempts I ended up with a nice fit. Best part is its easily installed/removed with only 3 #10-32 button head screws! I attached the bottom using the plastic U shaped edging FFR provided. It clamps the bottom nicely and does not require any fasteners, just push it on.

    Here is a close up of the edging used to secure the bottom panel to the radiator bottom.

    IMG_20180221_165318.jpg

    Here are the panels that make up the rear shroud.

    IMG_20180221_161847.jpg IMG_20180221_163846.jpg IMG_20180221_163837.jpg

    And here are some finished pics of the shroud installed.

    IMG_20180221_164926.jpg IMG_20180221_165039.jpg IMG_20180221_170342.jpg
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  34. #354
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Wow. Very nice work!
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  35. #355
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    I gotta agree, I think this will be the best 818 built to date.

  36. #356
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    Very nice work.
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  37. #357
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    Nice job

  38. #358
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    Good looking and functional work!
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
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  39. #359
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    I like the radiator shroud and you have inspired me to do something similar with my own. Very nice clean work. I also like the dual hump exhaust and will watch yours closely.....it is originally how I wanted to proceed as well, but I am leaning towards putting the hardtop on this car, and that would require some machinations to make work.....like a targa conversion a la the Porsche Carrera GT itself.
    Last edited by ben1272; 02-24-2018 at 01:54 PM.

  40. #360
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    Thanks everyone for the kind words.

    My wing finally came in and I am starting the process of mounting it to the chassis platform I made earlier. I am thinking of positioning the wing as far forward as I can without cutting into the humps. My logic is that by positioning it farther forward it will apply the downforce closer to the rear axles creating less of a moment arm that will need to be countered by the front splitter. I will also position it ~3in. higher than the roll bar to get it into cleaner air.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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