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Thread: JDav's MK4 #9028 Build Thread

  1. #81
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    It's possible I mixed up my nuts. It looks to be a 3/4 in coarse thread nylon lock nut. Is that what it should be?
    Not sure without my car here to look at.
    I'm sure Jeff's suggestion is probably much better advice. I was just taking a guess.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  2. #82
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Tapered end of the tie rods should be 1/2"-20 fine thread.

    Jeff

  3. #83
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Tapered end of the tie rods should be 1/2"-20 fine thread.

    Jeff
    Yep. That's my problem, I definitely have a coarse one. No luck finding it in my boxes and also struck out at the hardware store. I guess I'll have to order one.
    Thanks for helping me figure out the problem
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  4. #84
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    Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, should have it, hate to see you order and pay more shipping than the cost of the parts. Good luck,
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  5. #85
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Railroad View Post
    Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, should have it, hate to see you order and pay more shipping than the cost of the parts. Good luck,
    I was able to pick one up at Lowe's today. Oddly, the Home Depot right by my house (where I tried first) did not stock them. Very happy to pay $1.47 rather than 10x that in shipping.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  6. #86
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    9 Weeks In (I guess I missed my 8 Week update)
    I've gotten a lot of little things done like plumbing my reservoirs starting to bleed the MC and brakes, fitting the drop trunk and installing some of the driver side aluminum.
    Wiring will be next.
    Bleeding the rear brakes has not been as easy as I expected. I did discover a leak, but I'm not getting fluid to he calipers. It might just be that it takes longer than I expected (I've never bled brakes before). I know it's out of order, but I did the fronts after not seeing any fluid on the tears for a while (just to make sure I was doing it right). I re bench bleed the rear MC, so hopefully now it'll go more smoothly.

    That will all have to wait, as we had a storm roll through this morning and I'm dealing with this:

    Luckily no one was hurt (and the garage is safe), but I have no power and no way to get in and out of the driveway.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  7. #87
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    What did you end up doing with the rear brake connection? I have the same rearend as you and took the T connection off the bracket on the rearend, and replaced it with a three female T. Then got a new hose 20" long with a male connection on one end and female on the other but still figuring how to mount that connection to the chassis. Did you come up with a good solution?
    Randy

  8. #88
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    I was able to get the Mustang fitting that Jeff noted in post 70 (Ducky had one from MPS and then MPS sent me the proper bolt).
    I then fabbed a simple bracket to attach that fitting to the bottom of the triangle support piece of the upper trunk floor. Sorry, I dont have any pics.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  9. #89
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    10 weeks in
    I was out of the country for most of the week, so very little progress, but after finishing bleeding the brakes, I put the wheels and tires on. Now it actually looks like a car!
    I also started on the electrical.
    Overall, I'm moving quicker than expected. That is both good and bad. Good in that I haven't experienced too many setbacks or problems, but bad in that I will need my engine and transmission very soon in order to continue. I had thought that I wouldn't need it until the fall, so I don't yet have the money saved up to purchase it. We'll see how long I can sit on hold before I whip out the credit card...

    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  10. #90
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Looks good Joel. I like the supervisor in the 2nd picture. Looks like he has a real nose for quality control!

    You do realize the longer you wait to order the motor the more extra items you will come across and convince yourself you must buy! Probably cheaper just to order it today! haha
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  11. #91
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    Build is coming along nicely.

    Is that the FFR power steering rack? What power steering setup are planning to use with the coyote?

  12. #92
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cardnation View Post
    Build is coming along nicely.

    Is that the FFR power steering rack? What power steering setup are planning to use with the coyote?
    Yes, I ordered the complete power steering system from FFR
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  13. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Jdav,
    I have the Mustang fitting, if you want it you can have it. I also have the drop trunk for you. Call me tomorrow when you get a chance.
    David
    Hello, If nobody wants that fitting, I will take it off your hands.
    Dave

  14. #94
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave22 View Post
    Hello, If nobody wants that fitting, I will take it off your hands.
    Dave
    Sorry Dave, I already got it from Ducky and am using it
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  15. #95
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    11 Weeks In
    I did some additional wiring and installed the trunk aluminum and the rear cockpit aluminum.
    When running the rear harness, I had a couple of tweaks I had to make versus how it is described in the instructions. First, I had to split out the fuel level sending wires earlier than how the harness came as there was not enough slack to connect to the fuel level sender plug and the fuel pump plug. Second, since I am doing a drop trunk, i had to shift the entire harness closer to the passenger side. I believe that I should still have plenty of wirer for the driver's side lights. I also ran the license plate wires between the inner and outer trunk aluminum and ground out a hole for it to exit right below the trunk hoop - that seemed like the most logical and clean way to route.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  16. #96
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    13 weeks in
    Progress has slowed over the past 2 weeks as I've been extra busy at work and I am running out of things I can do before I need my engine/trans. I still have not ordered those.
    I have done a bit more wiring. I bought 2 LED strips (one for each footwell) and attached them. I am using the supplied led strip for the trunk so I also ran a new lead wire back there through the rear harness. I'm following edwardb's lead and using a magnetic switch (on order from amazon) to activate it. I also added the seat heater pads to one of my seats.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  17. #97
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    Checking in from Cobb County here. Enjoying your build thread. Looks like we may have similar names based on the member id. I wanted to check in on your tag/title plan. I assume you are from one of the 13 counties. Is this a concern for you? I am planning a Daytona build and I am a little nervous about this.

    James

  18. #98
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    Checking in from Cobb County here. Enjoying your build thread. Looks like we may have similar names based on the member id. I wanted to check in on your tag/title plan. I assume you are from one of the 13 counties. Is this a concern for you? I am planning a Daytona build and I am a little nervous about this.

    James
    My dads name is actually James (you arent my dad, are you....).
    I have done research on tag/title and frankly its confusing and vague. Best case scenario seems to be to not title it and register/tag it as a 65, thus being exempt from emissions - it seems many have done that before and its just a matter of getting the right person in the tag office. I dont really want to think of the worst case scenario. Ducky2009 is also in the same boat, and is aiming to start the registration process before me.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  19. #99
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  20. #100
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Jdav, I have property in Walton county where emissions is not required. I want a title, so if I decide to sell, I can no matter what state.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  21. #101
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    I believe if there is will, there is a way. This may be a novice talking, but is it possible to have a separate exhaust system that is installed for the sake of passing emmissions and then swap out each year? What would be needed, cat and muffler? "Hindsight" suggests registering as an antique/hobby car and forego title. May cause issues when time to sell, but not sure I will be selling this one anytime soon.

    Not your dad.

  22. #102
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    I believe if there is will, there is a way. This may be a novice talking, but is it possible to have a separate exhaust system that is installed for the sake of passing emmissions and then swap out each year? What would be needed, cat and muffler? "Hindsight" suggests registering as an antique/hobby car and forego title. May cause issues when time to sell, but not sure I will be selling this one anytime soon.

    Not your dad.
    The crate coyote does not have any emission control systems, so it's pretty much impossible from that perspective.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  23. #103
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    Jdav,

    Hey, it was great to meet you on Saturday. Thanks for letting me ask so many questions. May I ask what made you go with the coyote and why cats? The plan is hopefully to not be required to pass emissions. The coyote seems a little more technically challenging to install?

    James

  24. #104
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    Jdav,

    Hey, it was great to meet you on Saturday. Thanks for letting me ask so many questions. May I ask what made you go with the coyote and why cats? The plan is hopefully to not be required to pass emissions. The coyote seems a little more technically challenging to install?

    James
    Nice meeting you as well.
    I originally planned on adding cats to try to pass emissions, but subsequently found out that the control pack doesn't have the proper emissions control software so cats wouldn't help - I no longer plan to add them.
    I chose coyote mainly to have a reliable "turn the key and go" experience once it's built. It will be a bit more work to set up, but after than I shouldn't have to do too much maintenance. And with great build threads like edwardb's, there is a pretty clear path on making the coyote work.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  25. #105
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    The crate coyote does not have any emission control systems, so it's pretty much impossible from that perspective.
    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    May I ask what made you go with the coyote and why cats? The plan is hopefully to not be required to pass emissions. The coyote seems a little more technically challenging to install? James
    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    I originally planned on adding cats to try to pass emissions, but subsequently found out that the control pack doesn't have the proper emissions control software so cats wouldn't help - I no longer plan to add them. I chose coyote mainly to have a reliable "turn the key and go" experience once it's built. It will be a bit more work to set up, but after than I shouldn't have to do too much maintenance. And with great build threads like edwardb's, there is a pretty clear path on making the coyote work.
    Couple of comments about these statements. While the crate Coyote without cats is missing some of the elements Ford installs on their production vehicles, it still has extensive emission control systems. It's a full-up modern computer controlled engine that's monitoring the combustion process and keeping it within a very narrow window. If you plumb the EGR using the "strict" guidelines in the FF instructions, that too becomes part of the emission controls. Granted I'm still at very low mileage with mine, but I'm amazed how clean it runs. Essentially zero exhaust smell. The inside of the pipe tips are still shiny like new. I can drive it into the garage and immediately shut the door with zero smell. For my carb'd SBF's, I usually left the door open for a while to let things air out. Without cats, the Coyote isn't going to pass a current model year emissions test. That part is true. But it's still a very clean running engine.

    Speaking of cats, I have read where some guys have installed them. They work but a couple challenges. First is the actual exhaust plumbing. You're probably looking at something custom. I read where Mike Forte was prototyping a Coyote setup with cats. But haven't heard if that was completed, available, etc. Might be something to check. Second, a production Coyote has wideband O2 sensors before the cats that are used to manage the combustion. Then another pair after the cats to confirm all is working properly. The crate Coyote has the first set, but not the set after the cats. Those are deleted from the custom program Ford delivers with the crate version and there are no wires to hook them up. You could still run the cats without the rear O2 sensors, which I assume is what people are doing who have installed them. They would still work. Just not provide feedback to the PCM without other changes that could get pretty complicated.

    As far as whether the Coyote is more technically challenging, that's kind of a mixed answer. I will admit to feeling that way as well before diving into mine. For me, now that I've been through it, kind of a "pay me now or pay me later" situation. Yes it's a little more work to install. If you're comfortable with electrical wiring, it's not hard. Just more of it. For those who are not comfortable with wiring, maybe a little daunting. But you're not on your own. There are lots of instructions and build threads (including mine, thanks for the shout out) that detail ways to approach. The rest is about the same as any other engine, just a little tight because it's a big/wide engine. But all that's been improved a lot as well with sheet metal changes, motor mount mods, etc. But once it's done, the engine runs beautifully and there's basically nothing left to do. Just hang on because it's incredibly responsive and makes gobs of power. I am definitely won over.

    A more traditional build, especially carb'd, is certainly easier to install. But once installed there's still more work to do to get it running as well as it can. That can be daunting, and many don't have the equipment or skills to tune carbs. The aftermarket EFI systems offer an alternative over a carb. And while they are advertised as plug and play, there are too many posts that suggest otherwise. Not to say they don't run great, or that it's difficult. But there's a curve there. Some are still installing the older 5.0 small blocks or 4.6 mod motors with their factory EFI. Can work just fine, but not sure I put those in the same league as the 435+ HP Coyote and IMO the effort (wiring, etc.) is no easier than a Coyote. Maybe a bit harder. With the Coyote you get a fully engineering and turnkey setup. Basically it's a standalone system. There are five interface points between the Coyote system and the RF harness. That's it. Plus power and gauge senders, which you have to do with any engine.

    Hope that helps and is constructive.
    Last edited by edwardb; 05-09-2017 at 10:31 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  26. #106
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    Lots of great info. Thanks Edwardb. I am planning a Gen 3 Coupe build and I understand that others are installing Coyotes in them. I would like PS and AC, but understand there are placement issues. Do you have any thoughts on this?

  27. #107
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    Lots of great info. Thanks Edwardb. I am planning a Gen 3 Coupe build and I understand that others are installing Coyotes in them. I would like PS and AC, but understand there are placement issues. Do you have any thoughts on this?
    I'm thinking about a similar build and have the same question. Very early for me so no solid answers yet. What I have so far is that according to Jim Schneck at FFR, it's possible to run a KRC power steering setup which leaves the factory A/C location open. I used KRC power steering in my latest Roadster build, and it fits and works great. Not cheap, but what isn't... That will be the first thing I consider. Another idea I saw in a build thread was this front drive setup from LMR: https://lmr.com/item/SVE-8511D/coyot...-mustang-11-16. Will check that out as well. Plus keep watching and looking.

    Now back to Jdav's build thread.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  28. #108
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Now back to Jdav's build thread.
    Then I guess I need to keep building!
    I've decided to go ahead and order my engine/trans, just need to plan my schedule for shipping. And either borrow or make some engine lift plates.
    What type of space does the crate take up? As I've mentioned, I am pretty limited on space in my garage, so I need to make sure everything can fit.

    Also, EdwardB, I am wiring up courtesy lights in both the footwell and the trunk like you did. For the footwell, I followed the FFR instructions to attach to the grey and red (i think it was red) courtesy light ron francis harness wires. My understanding is that this should allow me to turn those on and off by twisting the headlight knob. You noted that you also tapped into the courtesy light power for the trunk light since it is an always on circuit and created a separate grounding point. I assume that the separate ground connection is what keeps the trunk light as an always on (turned off by the magnetic switch) and that I will not need to have the headlight knob twisted on in order for the trunk lights to be hot.

    As far as my 14 week update, more slow progress as noted before. I did install the other seat heater pad and added the aluminum spacers on the seat frame as EdwardB did. I also ran the power wires for the seat heaters through the trans tunnel. I will be mounting the switches either under the dash or on the under dash A panel, so I need to extend the wires and run them through the trans tunnel as well.
    I also bought some vinyl from JoAnn fabric to cover the trans tunnel. The fiancee is taking the lead on that part of the build. She also wants to do vinyl on the rear cockpit wall - I cant find that anyone has done that, so open to any thoughts on if that is a bad idea.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  29. #109
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Glad to hear you ordered the motor. It will show up on a standard pallet.
    For the lift plate the home made ones I made worked good and were easy to produce. EdwardB provided me the measurements. They are in my build thread post 124.
    Rear cockpit wall vinyl sounds pretty cool!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  30. #110
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    I've decided to go ahead and order my engine/trans, just need to plan my schedule for shipping. And either borrow or make some engine lift plates.
    What type of space does the crate take up? As I've mentioned, I am pretty limited on space in my garage, so I need to make sure everything can fit.
    Here is a picture for the Coyote crate. The Racedeck squares on the floor are 12 x 12. So you can get an idea of the size.




    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    Also, EdwardB, I am wiring up courtesy lights in both the footwell and the trunk like you did. For the footwell, I followed the FFR instructions to attach to the grey and red (i think it was red) courtesy light ron francis harness wires. My understanding is that this should allow me to turn those on and off by twisting the headlight knob. You noted that you also tapped into the courtesy light power for the trunk light since it is an always on circuit and created a separate grounding point. I assume that the separate ground connection is what keeps the trunk light as an always on (turned off by the magnetic switch) and that I will not need to have the headlight knob twisted on in order for the trunk lights to be hot.
    The RF Red (+12V) and Grey (ground) courtesy light circuit is switched by the headlight switch. It makes/breaks the Grey wire to ground by twisting the headlight knob. The Red wire is always hot. So it can also be used to power the trunk lights. As long as you provide a separate ground, twisting the headlight switch is not required for the trunk lights. Recommended wiring would be to take the +12V from the RF Red Courtesy Light wire to the positive side of the trunk light. Then take the ground wire side of the trunk light to the magnetic switch, and the other side of the magnetic switch to an actual chassis ground location. I put a ring terminal on the end of the ground wire, and riveted it to a spot on the back of the trunk hoop where I removed the powder coat. Now the magnetic switch makes/breaks the ground to the trunk light just like the headlight switch does for the courtesy lights. Pretty straightforward.
    Last edited by edwardb; 05-09-2017 at 07:31 PM.
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  32. #111
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Perfect, thanks Edwardb
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
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  33. #112
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Just to add to Paul's courtesy light comments---you run the courtesy light ground wire back to this terminal on the headlight switch:



    When the knob is turned to the detent it creates continuity between this terminal and the metal switch frame however be aware that the headlight switch has to be grounded to complete the circuit. There is a tab on the metal switch frame (opposite the side visible in the photo above) that will accept a female spade connector. To assure that the switch is well grounded run a wire from that tab to the chassis.

    Cheers,
    Jeff

  34. #113
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Week 15
    I continued the electrical work - completing the seat heater wiring, extending the wiring for the switches and testing it our (they work!). I had ordered 2 extra on-off-on toggle switches from FFR to use for the seat heaters - i was debating using those or the supplied switches, but decided on the FFR toggles to keep the look. I am going to mount them on the A panel part of the firewall that is on top/in front of the trans tunnel - out of the way, but still easily accessible.

    I also put the battery in the Breeze front battery tray and started on that wiring, but didn't get too far as I don't yet know where I will mount the starter.


    And it was time to say goodbye to the frame dolly. She finally put her feet on the ground:

    But then I put it right back up on wheel dollys.

    And finally, I did some work on the dash - getting the glove box in (I used the FFR upgraded dash with glovebox), using a aluminum insert plate on the door with acorn nuts securing it to the hinges and then epoxy-ing the insert plate to the glovebox door. I'll add some pics of that when I get home tonight.
    And I couldn't resist putting the gauges in as well. I decided I wanted the speedo on the right and tach on the left - it just feels more natural to me that way.

    With the RT turn signal and the turn signal indicator & high beam lights integrated into the gauges, I'll only need to find a place to mount the check engine light. The other existing holes will be for horn, ignition and lights with my hazard switch going down on the A panel with the aforementioned seat heater switches.
    Last edited by Jdav; 05-15-2017 at 01:21 PM.
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  35. #114
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Congrats on getting it on the ground!
    Starter goes on the lower passenger side of the motor.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  36. #115
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    I had ordered 2 extra on-off-on toggle switches from FFR to use for the seat heaters - i was debating using those or the supplied switches, but decided on the FFR toggles to keep the look. I am going to mount them on the A panel part of the firewall that is on top/in front of the trans tunnel - out of the way, but still easily accessible.
    I'd recommend being a little cautious there. CobraHeat seat heaters? The supplied switches have specific wiring for the high and low circuits, relay, dropping resistor, etc. that's in the harness. Make certain your replacement switches exactly duplicate what the supplied switches are doing. Personally I think the supplied switches look fine alongside the Lucas style toggles. Plus they have the seat logo and red and green indicator lights. But like many things it's a matter of opinion.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  37. #116
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I'd recommend being a little cautious there. CobraHeat seat heaters? The supplied switches have specific wiring for the high and low circuits, relay, dropping resistor, etc. that's in the harness. Make certain your replacement switches exactly duplicate what the supplied switches are doing. Personally I think the supplied switches look fine alongside the Lucas style toggles. Plus they have the seat logo and red and green indicator lights. But like many things it's a matter of opinion.
    According to the guy I spoke with at CobraHeat, the switch is just a standard 3-way. But I'll do some additional bench testing to make sure everything is in order. Thanks for the watch out.

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Jdav; 05-16-2017 at 09:01 AM.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
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  38. #117
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Yesterday was a big day - the engine and transmission was ordered!
    Coyote and TKO600 from Mike Forte.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
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  39. #118
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    According to the guy I spoke with at CobraHeat, the switch is just a standard 3-way. But I'll do some additional bench testing to make sure everything is in order. Thanks for the watch out.
    Sounds good. That's the first I've seen of an actual schematic for the heaters. Their instructions don't include one. I've wondered exactly how they switch between high and low. Always thought there was some kind of dropping resistor in the circuit, but never saw anything like that in the harness and wasn't sure exactly what the relay was doing although could hear it clicking on the low setting. Studying the schematic, now see they have the pads in parallel for high, and in series for low using the relay. The resistance of the pads themselves is obviously enough to effect the low setting. Interesting. Maybe I'm the only one that didn't know that.
    Last edited by edwardb; 05-17-2017 at 09:06 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
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  40. #119
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Sounds good. That's the first I've seen of an actual schematic for the heaters. Their instructions don't include one. I've wondered exactly how they switch between high and low. Always thought there was some kind of dropping resistor in the circuit, but never saw anything like that in the harness and wasn't sure exactly what the relay was doing although could hear it clicking on the low setting. Studying the schematic, now see they have the pads in parallel for high, and in series for low using the relay. The resistance of the pads themselves is obviously enough to effect the low setting. Interesting. Maybe I'm the only one that didn't know that.
    The guy at CobraHeat sent over the schematic after i spoke with him about what I wanted to do. I don't understand what you just said, so you were certainly not the only one who didnt know that!
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
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  41. #120
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Some new artwork for the garage
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
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