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Thread: Star Mobile 1 Build

  1. #441
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    So only four hours later I have all the aluminum that I need to take out out (and the trans tunnel and cover of course)...wasn't as bad as I thought it would be...

    This is the old Passenger Floor Plate I had made to cover the auxillary fuse block(s) I installed. It was just a little too small for my liking and to protect that area, so I made a second plate that covers much better and has a slight kickout on the bottom (all will be covered with carpet eventually)...

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    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless (Maybe), Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18

  2. #442
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I decided to just go with a dab of RTV High Temp Sealant and then let it dry. Since I had the panels off and I had some leftover Lizard Skin...everything got a heaping dose of LS Ceramic. I hit the diamond shaped area that rest right above the exhaust several times...

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    I will try to get everything back together tomorrow. I have few things I want to check for tight tonight since I have the aluminum off.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless (Maybe), Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18

  3. #443
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I did get the aluminum back in last weekend and for the most part it went back in fairly easy. One thing I did add (and difficult to see in the photo) is I cut and placed some rubber gasket material under the aluminum where the e-brake goes passes thru the floor. Once I had the floor back in over the rubber, I slit it to allow for the clevis to pass through. I just thought this might help keep moisture and dust from entering...

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    Additionally, I will add that in the beginning I drilled and tapped holes in the chassis for the aluminum and used 10-32 machine screws to hold everything in place. When I installed the aluminum this time (hopefully for the last time) I went back with #12 Self Piercing Screws and these seem to hold very well. I don't know that they will hold up to a lot of R/R, but I was finding that the machine screws weren't holding up that well either, so we will have to see with these (I believe that #10 would have worked if I had not gone with the 10-32's prior)...

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    I had also been back and forth on being able to adjust the seats. I am 5'11" and will probably need to do some adjusting to get the brake pedal in the right (more comfortable...you lucky Gen 2 guys) position. When it's all said and done, I can't see there being more than about 2" either direction (front to back) in my set-up, but if need be, I wanted to be able to adjust for that, so while I had the seats out I came up with a viable solution. I took some 3/4" square tube (same size as the seat frames), cut them to 11" long and then drilled holes along them at 1" intervals. I then took and 11ga steel plate 6" x 12" and drilled it out to match the existing holes in the aluminum and chassis. I then welded (2) of the the tubes to the plate and the other (2) to the bottom of the seat frame. In the end this raised the seat almost an inch and allows me to shift the seat forward and backwards however I need to. It cost me about $30 in material, but it did take about 8 hours of my time...

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    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless (Maybe), Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18

  4. #444
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless (Maybe), Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18

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  6. #445
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    cont'd...

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    Going to follow this as I need to have the drivers side adjustable fore and aft. Will possibly be using this concept for the mount even though from a height standpoint I should be fine (but could use the additional bit of height. THX!

  7. #446
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Clever. That’s a great idea.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  8. #447
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Yeah, the most time consuming part was drilling the holes. Anyone with access to a Bridgeport or CNC Mill could knock this out pretty quickly (ours were full at work). And honestly, all you really need is about (6) holes in each tube, (1) location for nominal, (1) for forward and (1) for aft, that gives you an inch of travel either way. You could adjust the spacing on the holes to give you more with a minimal amount of work.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless (Maybe), Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18

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  10. #448
    Member MBB Larry's Avatar
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    I am fortunate to live about 20 minutes from Jamie. I am about 6-months into my build, and have become good friends with Jamie. I can tell you, he has done a beautiful job with
    his build. It is an inspiration and motivation for me. I tried to tell him Eagles Green with an Eagle on the side would look nice, but did not go over!?!?! Living in "Cowboy Country", and spending of $$$$$$ on an Eagle paint job, would not be a good idea!?!?
    Your getting closer Jamie!!! Great Job!
    Larry
    FFR Hot Rod #1106

  11. #449
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    You need to come up to 121 with Jamie sometime. I'd love to meet you. Maybe we could get TDSapp out too.

  12. #450
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrp View Post
    You need to come up to 121 with Jamie sometime. I'd love to meet you. Maybe we could get TDSapp out too.
    This sounds like a great idea...once Kory has my car, I'll be up there at least once a week.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless (Maybe), Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18

  13. #451
    Member MBB Larry's Avatar
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    There are getting to be enough of us in North TX to start up a Club, and have some meetings. And hopefully some Cruises in the near future.
    FFR Hot Rod #1106

  14. #452
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Finally got the fit-up done on the fab cover for the solenoid. I will have chromed Monday, but wanted to confirm fit before doing so. My design, but I can't take the credit for forming or weld (I can weld in a pinch, but not when aesthetics are of importance). I think it will look sharp once chromed...

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    Hope to do a little more work and then start organizing parts to handover to painter next week ! Might even try to get out to Autorama tomorrow.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless (Maybe), Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18

  15. #453
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I was able to get a few more small things done this weekend. As mentioned previously, the car is scheduled to go to the Painters this next weekend. I know that by looking at the current state of the car, some may think that I still have a ways to go before paint, but with my build the challenge I was willing to accept was getting the engine in, started and the car rolling. I do have a background in Automotive Collision Repair and Refinishing, however that was many, many years ago and the advancement in the process, product and technologies surpassed my level of comfort about two decades ago. So this accompanied by the two previous back surgeries I have had with the possibility of a third looming in the near future drove the decision to leave the fit-up of the body, doors, etc. to the experts (..."stay in your lane Bro", right). The shop that I chose is more than capable of doing a great job as they have worked on a previous 33' and did an awesome job (WRP's 33'). The challenge now will become not straying from the plan and letting the professionals do their job! Anyway, back to this last weekend, so at the risk of additional overkill and the fact that I had the seats out, I added some Thermo-Gard as a top layer to the Lizard Skin, DEI heat shielding and FFR heat & sound barrier. I know, I know it's overkill right? I just thought that adding the additional protection at this point is the best option. If I never notice the difference in not having it then its done its job and in the scheme of things it was easy to lay down and relatively in-expensive. In some areas I just used some velcro dots, in other areas I just used a small dollop of RTV. The intent was to still be able to remove this if need be without destroying it. The sheet came 48" x 72" and for the most part I was able to cover the entire passenger compartment. It is easy to work with although I would suggest a good pair of scissors opposed to a box cutter or exacto knife...

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    Last edited by JOP33; 02-18-2019 at 07:33 AM.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless (Maybe), Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18

  16. #454
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I tried something around the auxiliary fuse block to see if it would work (I will report back as it is still drying, however I am hopeful). I had an area on either side that I wanted to insulate a bit, so I took some 3mil plastic and persuaded it into the area as best as I could then I sprayed (cautiously) some spray foam and allowed it to expand into the areas. My hope is that after trimming the face down, I will have some foam inserts that can be pulled out if needed. I'll have see how concept and theory transition into reality, but at this point I am still hopeful...

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    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless (Maybe), Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18

  17. #455

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    That extra insulation should be well worth it come summer. I did the same with more DEI and Thermo Gard.
    I have more insulation arriving any day now to put in the doors, in front of the fuel tank, and in between the door hinge and the front of the rear wheels.
    Probably should add some to the roof too.
    '33 Hotrod, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

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  19. #456
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Just as a bit of a follow up, the foam insulation experiment concluded last night. I'm not going to call it a success but not a failure either. I believe with the right process and a little warmer temperatures this would be a viable solution to the area I was working on. The product trimmed up relatively easy with a hacksaw blade. I should have done the application in gradual layers opposed to trying to fill the area at one time, but all in all a good learning experience and I will possibly try it again...

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    In an effort to just try to cover the chassis through transport this weekend, I just picked up a (relatively) in-expensive car cover from the local top of the mountain auto parts store. I started with the 13-14 foot length and it was too small, so went back and jumped up two sizes and then one seems quite big, but will do the job (and the body and hardtop are not on). For the purpose of transport it will only be covering the chassis, my long term hopes are to go with a Coverking or something a little higher end, but the cover seems to be decent quality and serve a purpose and it was cost effective. It also has straps and eyelets to use for tying...

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    I also temporarily fit-up the lower trunk brace I had fabbed to help stiffen that area. The verdict is still out on this and I will know more once the body is on...

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    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless (Maybe), Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18

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