To be honest those small side vent openings won't do that much.
While your driving the majority of the air flow will be out the bottom of the engine compartment, that opening is much bigger, the air will take the path of least resistance.
Yeah, I am not completely sold on the idea yet. The vents would be the highest up and back as far as I could get in the compartment. It would be a true vent on the inside with a scoop much like a NACA Vent, so although smaller in size, the opening would actually be bigger than it appears. You can't tell from the 2D but all would have a rectangular opening behind that allows flow toward the door..the badges would be tapered slightly off the surface of the panel. The heated air will want to rise and the gaps at the firewall are the path of least resistance now, so I will take care of those first. Hitting the firewall is what is forcing the air downward. I am seeing the affects of this now as any time I speed up the heated air then rushes in, drop back to a steady speed, not so much air coming in.
Thanks
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
Had a really good run in the car yesterday. Larry (33 Builder out of Grapevine, Tx) and I went out to the Star in Frisco yesterday. When I did the photo shoot in March, I was just glad to be done with it and headed home, so I wanted to get back over there and take a few more pics & videos for myself and with things just starting to come back it was still a bit slow over there. The car drove and engine cooled great! Say what you want about the Cowboys or Jerry Jones...their facility is absolutely amazing and I would encourage anyone that gets in the area to take an opportunity to stop by there.
I spent some time this morning finishing up something fun that I started a couple of months ago. I finally hardwired my scrolling LED sign into the battery cover. There is a toggle right behind the cover that allows me to turn it off when I want to and it is fully programmable... IMG_8466.jpg
I about to go out into the shop and install some snaps on my vinyl piece that covers the access holes for the hardtop just above the waterfall. The velcro is just not doing it because of all of the compound contours. Hope to have that completed by tomorrow.
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
Just another step in finding and tweaking a few things on the Hotrod...The Holley Sniper EFI has an AC Kick Off Switch that will turn the AC off at a certain % of WOT. I knew this and installed the relay and wired it. The default from Holley is supposed to be 65%, when I checked mine it was at 50%. So anytime that acceleration was past 50% the AC was receiving a signal to disengage. I have since set it at 85% and tested and it runs more consistently now. Even with some good depression for acceleration, the AC is staying on. Only when I really romp on it does it disengage. This is just a digital percentage setting within the Holley Handheld that can be manipulated and saved at anytime. Now I just need to fill a few air gaps and I think the heat might be tolerable this summer!
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
Down here in FL. we need large openings on the sides to cool the engine and have A/C work well in the 90+ temps as well as the humidity. Lots of Street rod guys take the sides off during the summer and put them back on in cooler temps. Just thought I would share that with you. Here is some examples of FFR sides we have down here. With your beautiful graphics it may be a challenge to get a good side opening to work for you.
As we all know the life of owning a Hot Rod is filled with highs and lows...this week was no exception. As I was chasing down heat transfer issues from the engine compartment to the passenger compartment (gaps @ firewall), I thought to myself I should really have the AC system sucked down, purged and refilled just so I know that I am starting with a system that is performing as it should and eliminate that as a variable. So I scheduled an appointment at the same local shop that had done my Safety Inspection for the registration. As I pulled into the parking space at the shop, I was paying more attention to the truck that was following (and turning, what I thought was extremely prematurely) behind me into the parking space next to me. Ultimately, the result was I did the inevitable and crushed the front facing camera on the bottom of the grill. Honestly, this was the best scenario as if the grill had been even a 1/4" lower (or the stop 1/4" higher) this would have been much more than $100 camera I was out! Honestly, I don't know that I will replace the camera, I was 100% for it during the build, but honestly it's like watching a train wreck - at the point you see it, you can't do anything about it. So after I picked up the remains of the camera (sheared the wire and camera right off), I moved the car into the last stall where they were able to purge the system and get the air temp to about 68°...I was pretty happy with that. I am running the Classic Auto Air Street Rodder Gen III unit provided by Dan Ruth, so I called CAA (they are local) and asked the proper filling allowance - they stated for that system (and most) it was 24oz 134a freon. The AC appears to be cycling more consistently and provides cooler air - this has done absolutely nothing for the air escaping from the Engine Compartment and coming into the Passeger Compartment, but I am working on that. BTW, the engine seems to still be cooling good as we head into some 90°+ days.
I was never really happy with the cover we came up with for the access holes in the hardtop. I think (I am not an upholstery guy) it was made a little too rigid to contour to all the compound curves in the lower portion of the hardtop. Also, using velcro on the back side was just not a good option either. I had purchased some extra material a while back knowing that I was going to do something different. I took the original cover along with the material to a local upholstery shop and explained to them my new plan, to remake the cover with snaps. They thought it was a good plan, but they were way to covered up to be able to do the work, but actually lent me their snap install tool so that I could install the snaps once I had the cover remade. On the way home, I actually stopped by another shop (closer to the house) that I had heard good things about and they were able to take the material and pattern right in. Two days & $60 later, I had my new cover. From this point, I taped the cover into the car where I wanted to install it, marked it and installed all of the snaps. It still needs a bit of heat on it, but I am much happier with the fit, form & functionality of this now!
Sorry to hear about the camera. You may want to keep looking into the A/C, I would think you should see 40-50 degrees at the vent. Possible heater valve is allowing some flow through the heater core?
Sorry to hear about the camera. You may want to keep looking into the A/C, I would think you should see 40-50 degrees at the vent. Possible heater valve is allowing some flow through the heater core?
What’s the easiest way to check this? You’re the second person that has asked me about that.
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
Pinch off the hose coming from the water pump, that will prevent any water flow to the heater core.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
Yeah - that whole 33 grill/ rad assy is very vulnerable. On my car the very lowest piece is the bottom corner of the rad tank ...I'm sure there is a custom radiator in my future at some point as I think it is only a matter of when ,not if it gets damaged.
Yeah - that whole 33 grill/ rad assy is very vulnerable. On my car the very lowest piece is the bottom corner of the rad tank ...I'm sure there is a custom radiator in my future at some point as I think it is only a matter of when ,not if it gets damaged.
Yeah, I thought the same thing this weekend - probably going to move my rad up inside the grill a little more. I'd rather have more clearance and make it a little harder to get the rad cap off..
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
At the build school, they suggested putting a sacrificial piece of aluminum between the grill and radiator, so if the grill was hit it wouldn't puncture the radiator. Honestly, the grill is probably more expensive than the radiator though.
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
As I was cleaning the car up for a show on Sunday, I noticed that the lower steering joint where it attaches to the steering rod was actually cocked slightly. When I reached down, sure enough it was loose to touch. I had loctited ALL of the set screws and jam nuts on this application as I had heard some past concerns about them staying tight. I also drilled detents for the set screws to rest into the double d rod, but was unable to do so on the hardened steering shaft with the splines. What appeared to have happened, is that the splined end of the knuckle (joint) had not loosened, but did slide back just enough to tilt a bit on the spline. It was completely tight on the other end to the double d rod without any movement there. There is not enough play (at least on my set-up) for the spline to become completely disengaged, so steering & turning were still functional. I would suggest that if this area is not something you check regularly in your normal maintenance, that you add checking ALL steering connectors, knuckles & joints to the list. I loosened both ends of the joint, slid the joint as far forward as possible, so as to engage as much of the steering rod spline as possible, then reinstalled the set-screws and jam nuts and loctited them again with Red Loctite. I put 100 miles on the car Sunday after this, checking both at the show and when I returned home and I didn't see any signs of movement or loosening...this is something I will definetly be keeping my eyes on during routine maintenance.
Yesterday I also took another reading on the AC vent, I was seeing 57.7°, so that seemed pretty good to me (will seem even better in just a minute ). I removed the Access Panels off the Cowl as I have yet to remove the hardtop myself and I am planning on doing so in the next few days - I wanted to see about accessing the bolts that hold the hardtop on. Low and behold, neither vent hose was attached to the actual dash vents. The should have definitely been zipped tied to the vents, but I also know it is extremely tight in these areas. It appeared to me they had just been set by the vents, but they could have also been tugged off when the body was placed on (did I mention it is extremely tight in this area - and I don't have wipers in the cowl). One of the defrost vent hoses had also come off at the evaporator. Needless to say, I am working (with sausage fingers) to get the hoses attached and permanently connected to the vents - I can only assume this will help with cooling substantially. AC Vent Reading.jpg
I also uncovered a couple areas at the firewall that will be getting some attention as well. You can see in the photos (DS & PS), where the chassis tube is welded at the firewall, the black air gap that runs on the outside of the chassis but in between the body creating just a tunnel of heat flowing into the passenger compartment. I will be working to fill these areas (along with any others I might find). Firewall Body-Chassis Gap DS.jpg
All in all though, it was good to get out to a small show in Lewisville, Tx Sunday and the car drove and looked great! I will be make just a few simple mods over the next week or so that I will post updated pics on - nothing to crazy, just small aesthetic details. Outlaw Performance Show.jpg
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
I was able to verify that the heater valve is performing properly. As previously noted, several of the vent hoses were off the vents allowing for air to escape. The two main dash vents, I found had larger outputs than the hose - so this means they were never attached to begin with. I stopped by the hardware store yesterday and just purchased some pvc elbows and then used some high strength hot glue and glue gun to reduce the vents down to the hose size. I was then able to re-attach the other loose connections to the evaporator and ran a small screw through each connection with a bit of RTV on it. I had planned to zip tie the ends, but many of the areas are just too tight to get to with a tie. I also removed the front nuts on the hardtop last night - surprisingly this only took about 15 minutes. I hope to have the rear bolts out tonight and the top off of the car this weekend for the first official time. I have thinking about the easiest way to remove the top. I have a 200 lb over-head hoist that I can use, but I think lifting it may tend to be a little awkward and require some innovative strapping. I think the best solution is going to be driving the car into the lift area, running two 2 x 4's that have swimming noodles on them for protection across from one lift rail to the other through the window openings, and then just run the lift up. Sounds like it should work easily...I'll let you know!
Between yesterday and this morning Star Mobile One became topless for the first time! It took probably two hours total and I truly anticipated more issues, but things went relatively smooth...of course the lift helped quite a bit! I am sure getting the Hardtop back on will be more of a challenge. There are five locking flange nuts that get removed in the front cowl area and then five bolts that get removed in the rear. I had to enlarge the holes in the front just a bit to allow for the studs to fit through correctly on the Roadster windshield and to be able to position the window where all hardtop holes are covered as well. I installed the FFR supplied gasket for the Roadster windshield and then placed it on and tightened everything down. For the Rear Cap Cover, we had drilled holes through the fiberglass piece prior to covering in vinyl, so all I had to do was use a pick to poke the holes through the vinyl to allow for some 1/4-20 Chrome Machine Screws to be installed. Still a fan of the Hardtop though, but I've got to say getting in and out of the car is much easier - just don't know if it outweighs the benefit of the AC though!
So I have only been driving the car around (topless) for two days now and here are just a few early observations I have made...
1) People will interact with you more - Not sure this is a good thing
2) I truly am a fan of the LOOK of the car with the top on and I appreciate a good AC on hot day just like any other Texan, but I have got to say if you are looking for pure driving experience, topless is the way to go!
3) The car is actually not as loud with the top off - I assume the hardtop just echoes everything and bounces it right back at you.
4) Carry some good sun screen in your console - place it in a ziploc bag, so it doesn't ooze on anything when it gets sweltering.
5) There may be some sort of Tonneau Cover in development to protect that interior on hot days - I imagine you could attach in the rear into the rear cap with some snaps then place some elastic loops to hook the mirrors!
6) Watch the angle and location of your Stereo units if you plan on driving topless very much - mine is a great position as it is, but I was originally going to place it facing straight up rear of the shifter, also trying use your phone out in the sun for directions is just useless!
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
So I have only been driving the car around (topless) for two days now and here are just a few early observations I have made...
6) Watch the angle and location of your Stereo units if you plan on driving topless very much - mine is a great position as it is, but I was originally going to place it facing straight up rear of the shifter, also trying use your phone out in the sun for directions is just useless!
i have that on my Harely too.... the screens just gets black in the sun...
Just a couple quick notes I want to add...
With the top off and a Polished or Chrome Roadster Windshield...If you are chroming or polishing your Roadster Windshield Frame, do as you wish, but remember with the top off sun will be reflecting right back at you at approximate eye level some of the time. Could be a good idea to dampen the interior side polish a bit or not chrome inside or even matte paint the inside, just a thought.
Also, I have noticed (first world problems here) that with the grill chromed occasionally when you are following behind a car the reflection from the grill will flash on to the rear lights of the car in front of you and make it appear to be braking.
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
Spent just a few minutes (less than 15) and polished up the top of the radiator this weekend! Just some Meguiar's Chrome Polish and a 5000 grit pad. Now I need a chrome cap...
Also would like to share this and get some input (I have posted on facebook too)...
So a good friend stopped by and visited at a local car show yesterday and as you all know, you tend to have a lot of free time to come up with some wild and crazy ideas at shows, right? I have been challenging myself recently to come up with a back-up plan with regards to easing the exit of heat from the engine compartment. This hasn't been an issue as of yet, but we have not hit three digit heat here in DFW, nor have I taken the car out on a 100 mile cruise with the AC blasting the entire time in that same heat. The commitment of having the star painted on the side of the Engine Side Panels (I know, shame on me) makes removing the side panels really not the best option. Others are using vents, louvers, ports, screens or just openings in the side panels, and I a can only assume they work relatively well. Ultimately, if a nicely CAD'ed and 3D printed custom side vent, strategically placed on the side panel becomes the right option, I will be okay with that. But as this friend of mine and I reviewed the engine compartment, the side panels and how they attach...I think we may have come up with an innovative, relatively simple and (most important) cool solution for allowing an easy egress for the heat. Try and fall in love with this for at least a minute, before shooting holes in the idea...On my car, there are (5) button head screws at the bottom of the Engine Side Panel and attach to the Chassis Wings. Then there are (2) more countersunk screws that attach on the top flange that goes into the side of the Cowl. Our thought is, if you pinned the the first lower attachment point on the Side Panel, then used shoulder bolts on the remaining (4) attachment points and slotted those holes in the Side Panel (instead of maintaining the through holes), you still have the (2) screws at the top into the cowl maintaining the fitment at the Hood. In theory, all of this would allow for the Side Panel to pivot out away from its normal, flush position and allow for ~1" - 1-1/2" of "wing-out" creating a tapered opening from top of the Side Panel to the bottom allowing air to escape out the sides in front of the Door. We also believe that this action could be achieved by a micro-solenoid attached to the Engine Side Panel lower flange and mounted to bottom of the Firewall. With the right wiring and set-up, the power to actuate could be ran off the temperature gauge on the car, meaning when the car temp hit a set temperature, the Side Panels would flare out ever so slightly allowing for more heat to escape. When the car was at a lower temperature or off, the panels would remain flush in their original state. Pics below may show a little better what it would look like. I'd love to hear thoughts or comments on this and remember the top of the Side Panel is remaining in its same location, so the fitment at the Hood is a non-issue. Thanks All!
It might just work, but hot air rises, so it may still work if there is enough restriction at the top of the cowl area to force air out the bottom. I would mock it up and try a run on 100 degree day, at low speeds like in traffic. The cooling fans would need to be operating.
It might just work, but hot air rises, so it may still work if there is enough restriction at the top of the cowl area to force air out the bottom. I would mock it up and try a run on 100 degree day, at low speeds like in traffic. The cooling fans would need to be operating.
Don - I will definitely have to mock up something and confirm it helps (at all)...and with all due respect - in my car, hot air hits the firewall and then proceeds through every open gap or area I didn't do a good enough job sealing!
By the way, I think I might owe you a ride! Hope you are well my friend.
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
Just a thought looking at your pictures and your dilemma of venting heat, what if you added a blue mesh in the area I marked on the picture, wont take away from the cars look but would allow a lot of air to get past the engine and out?? IMG_8725.jpg
Just thinking out loud.
Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
Andreas
Just a thought looking at your pictures and your dilemma of venting heat, what if you added a blue mesh in the area I marked on the picture, wont take away from the cars look but would allow a lot of air to get past the engine and out?? IMG_8725.jpg
Just thinking out loud.
Yes, definitely another great option! Why I love this forum, I have some great feedback regarding this subject both here and on facebook! Thanks all and keep them coming.
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
I'd paint it the same blue and install it here. JOP33a.JPG
The bigger the opening the more hot air you can move out.
The next thing I'd do it install a power resistor across the fan relay contacts that will keep the fan at 1/2 power so you will always have air flow to blow the heat out.
Last edited by JimLev; 07-03-2020 at 02:58 PM.
Reason: Typo
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
So I ran some test yesterday, put about 60 miles with the "gills" out. Rigidity of the panels was absolutely not an issue. At least initially, I am just not seeing the benefit I thought I would though. My temps were running between 185° and 200° which is pretty consistent with what I was seeing before. The outside temps were around 100° yesterday. I am going to leave the gills out for a bit longer and just monitor. I am ok with the temp as of now, it is when the hardtop goes back on and the AC kicks in that I will be concerned about the temps again.
Today I am going to work on more of permanent solution for lifting and storing the hardtop. I will try to post pics later if my solution works.
Also have to mention that I hit 3K yesterday on the odometer!
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
I think the solution to your under hood temperature problem could be solved using a little different approach. I would like you to read this article that I found a long time ago. I learned this lesson on a vehicle I was troubleshooting years ago. Trust me the missing air dam when replaced made a huge difference in the temps I was seeing. You will probably have to experiment with the placement of the air damn to find the optimal position and height. Air dams are used on most if not all cars nowadays and the bottom of the engine compartment is somewhat sealed. I would also like to add that the a/c outflow temp should be much lower than 57 degrees (I usually will not allow a car to leave my shop if over 45 after an a/c service). By your description I would suspect that your system is overcharged. Hope this helps! Ray
The problem
The impeded flow of air through your radiator and engine compartment. What engineers found was that the configuration of the body forces a strong current of air directly under the radiator, a flow which does not simply pass under the car but flows up into the engine compartment where it collides with the firewall, causing the air to back up in the compartment and create a relatively high air pressure inside it. If air inside the compartment is exerting even the slightest back pressure, it will inhibit the flow of air through the radiator. The higher the speed, the more pressure and more impedance, and at high speed, this can be substantial.
The answer
Block the area directly beneath the radiator down to the bottom edge of the frame with an air dam, preventing that unwanted flow of air into the engine compartment and thus greatly increasing the efficiency of the flow of air through the radiator at speed.
The best design for this simple air dam we've been able to come up with uses a piece of rubber floor matting available at most hardware stores. This is fixed in place with bolts that hold the radiator to the frame beneath it. The rubber matting, after it is bolted on, can be draped over the steering rods, and will not interfere with their operation. It must be long enough to extend the bottom of the frame. As the air hits this dam, it will force it into place in front of the suspension frame just behind the radiator. Above 25 m.p.h., this system will really work. The relatively low pressure inside the engine compartment pulls air through the radiator and down and under the car. Side benefits include:
1. Reduced engine fumes inside car.
2. Cleaner firewall and engine.
3. Improved cooling, as it can no longer pull air from beneath the radiator.
4. Lower under hood temperatures
I think the solution to your under hood temperature problem could be solved using a little different approach...
I appreciate you taking the time for the feedback! This is definitely something I am going to chase down and see if I can see some benefits from. I will update with any results I am able to obtain (good or bad).
Thank you again!
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
I think this is the solution for the Hardtop Removal and Storage I am going to live with for a while at least. All can be purchased at the local HFT store. Hopefully none of the items are on their recall list!
(1) 440 Lb Overhead Hoist........................................$99.0 0
(1) 2 Ton Load Leveler........................................... ...$39.99
(4) V Shape Wall Hangers.........................................$7 .96
(4) 1/8" x 24" Vinyl Coated Stainless Steel Cable.........$2.56 (from HD not HFT)
(4) D Rings............................................. ................$4.00
(2) 1/2" Foam Insulation........................................ ...$3.00
(1) Roll of Electrical Tape...........................................$1. 50
I have that same hoist, worked great on a Jeep hardtop. If you use the little snatch block pulley to double the line it works a little smoother as top is only moving at “half speed”. Mine is in a detached garage that gets pretty warm, I had an issue with oil dripping out of the hoist so you definitely need a drip pan and absorbent towel to protect your paint. (That is if you are going to leave it hanging up there)
Finished the tri-fecta this last weekend...installed a third Hagan Fattie (Flattie) as a rear view mirror for the Roadster Windshield. Had to bevel the mount just a bit to get the required angle. Also watch when drilling and tapping, in fact I strongly suggest you take the window out during this process. I wanted to make sure of the placement so I left it in - just be careful. I ended up shortening the (2) 10-32 x 3/8" screws to ~1/4". Holds good with no vibration, just a little loc-tite to finish it off...
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Originally Posted by JimLev
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And my plans to use it daily 
). I removed the Access Panels off the Cowl as I have yet to remove the hardtop myself and I am planning on doing so in the next few days - I wanted to see about accessing the bolts that hold the hardtop on. Low and behold, neither vent hose was attached to the actual dash vents. The should have definitely been zipped tied to the vents, but I also know it is extremely tight in these areas. It appeared to me they had just been set by the vents, but they could have also been tugged off when the body was placed on (did I mention it is extremely tight in this area - and I don't have wipers in the cowl). One of the defrost vent hoses had also come off at the evaporator. Needless to say, I am working (with sausage fingers) to get the hoses attached and permanently connected to the vents - I can only assume this will help with cooling substantially.
