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Thread: Star Mobile 1 Build

  1. #81
    mburger's Avatar
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    JOP33, nice shop and great build thread!

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  3. #82
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I started putting the front end back together this weekend after powder. Definitely a much slow process being coated and throughout the mock-up I also had not added any grease or torqued anything. The main issue I have ran into so far is coming up with a good combination that allows me to torque the Spindle Castle Nuts. Some have made the suggestion of using a Crows Foot wrench, another option would be to grind a socket down. I believe the nuts are 22 & 24mm, so finding the right size in a 1/2 drive that still allows clearance has been a challenge and IMHO I don't know that once I find something that works that I will be able to get the required torque on the nuts with the vehicle on jackstands. The next challenge will be similar as at this point I can only use an adjustable wrench for tightening the "large" spindle nut (I know it's larger than 1-1/4 or 30mm) and it calls for 235ft/lbs of torqe. Below are some of the pics of my progress so far...

    Front Control Arms...IMG_3782.JPG

    Not much room working around the springs and shocks, so I opted to put this area of the brake lines in before shocks...IMG_3783.JPGIMG_3784.JPG

    Shocks and Springs in...IMG_3785.JPGIMG_3786.JPGIMG_3787.JPG

    Spindles next and those pesky nuts...IMG_3788.JPGIMG_3789.JPG

    Coming together...IMG_3790.JPGIMG_3792.JPG
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  4. #83

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    I had to borrow an Autozone torque wrench (and buy a 1 3/8 socket) to tighten the hub up, but as others have said, the torque for the castle nuts is a little misleading - you have to get them good and tight, but then align the holes too.. so for me I didn't use the torque wrench there.

    Looking good with your custom color! I don't regret getting the FFR black powder (it was super cheap!) but I'd have preferred to have a white chassis. Perhaps on the 10,000 mile refresh
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  5. #84
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I also went ahead and pulled the trigger on the 302/350hp EFI and AOD Transmission package from Engine Factory. It'll be blue'd out, so a combination of the pics below...302-Blue.jpgFront Setup.jpg

    And then the AOD transmission...AOD Kit.JPG

    Engine Details...
    PRECISION MACHINED 302 ROLLER BLOCK
    NODULAR CAST IRON CRANKSHAFT
    SHOT PEENED & STRESS RELIEVED CONNECTING RODS WITH ARP RETAINING BOLTS
    Hypereutectic Federal Mogul 9.5 TO 1 COMPRESSION W/ Duralube Coating
    SPEED PRO Chrome Moly PISTON RINGS
    3 PIECE STEEL ROLLER STYLE TIMING CHAIN
    Steel Roller HYD CAMSHAFT DELIVERS MID-RANGE HORSE POWER AND Great LOW END TORQUE
    NEW MELLING OIL PUMP AND SCREEN
    EDELBROCK ALUMINUM HEADS 60cc COMBUSTION CHAMBER with Bronze Guides
    2.02 STAINLESS STEEL SWIRL POLISHED INTAKE VALVES
    1.60 STAINLESS STEEL SWIRL POLISHED EXHAUST VALVES
    COMP CAMS XTREME DUTY ROLLER ROCKERS
    HARD SEATS FOR UNLEADED OR REGULAR FUEL
    HEAVY DUTY 1.45 DIAMETER VALVE SPRINGS, 7 DEGREE LOCKS
    NEW HEAVY DUTY CHROME MOLY PUSH RODS
    Rear SUMP 6 QUART OIL PAN (to accommodate electric power assist)
    TIMING CHAIN COVER WITH SCALE
    POLISHED BALL MILLED ALUMINUM VALVE COVERS
    164 TOOTH STANDARD FLEXPLATE FOR AOD TRANSMISSION
    NEW EDELBROCK PERFORMER RPM DUAL PLANE INTAKE MANIFOLD
    SNIPER TBI EFI Fuel Injection. Includes Build in ECU, Wiring Harness, Sensor
    ELECT. BILLET IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR W/ 45,000 VOLT COIL
    ALUMINUM THERMOSTAT HOUSING AND THERMOSTAT
    ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP
    HIGH FLOW ALUMINUM Reverse Rotation WATER PUMP
    DIP TUBE AND DIPSTICK
    14 INCH CHROME AIR CLEANER W/ WASHABLE ELEMENT (Blue)
    EFI FUEL LINES AND GAS FILTER
    Chrome 100 AMP ALTERNATOR- ONE WIRE HOOK UP, SANDON POLISHED AC Compressor
    Complete MARCH Underdrive POLISHED PULLEY SET
    Polished Chrome Alternator Bracket
    NEW SERPENTINE BELT INSTALLED AND TENSION ADJUSTED
    Complete AOD Automatic Transmission Package with 3200-3500 Stall Speed
    Includes Matching Torque Converter, (3200-3500 Stall Speed) Trans. Cooler, TV Cable and Fluid
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  6. #85
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    I had to borrow an Autozone torque wrench (and buy a 1 3/8 socket) to tighten the hub up, but as others have said, the torque for the castle nuts is a little misleading - you have to get them good and tight, but then align the holes too.. so for me I didn't use the torque wrench there.

    Looking good with your custom color! I don't regret getting the FFR black powder (it was super cheap!) but I'd have preferred to have a white chassis. Perhaps on the 10,000 mile refresh
    Yes...That's probably the best option for that larger nut (and thanks, now I know the size).

    Thanks, I appreciate your comments. I am happy so far with how things are progressing and looking. I have had analysis paralysis for the last month with regards to wheels and tires, but luckily my Brother-in-Law has a set of wheels he is not using that he's going to loan me so I can get a visual before committing.

    Update: I believe the socket required is a 36mm.
    Last edited by JOP33; 06-30-2017 at 06:56 AM.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  7. #86
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Looking good with your custom color! I don't regret getting the FFR black powder (it was super cheap!) but I'd have preferred to have a white chassis. Perhaps on the 10,000 mile refresh
    RoadRacer, a white tube chassis looks fabulous....until the first time you drive it. We had Fabcar build us a tube frame for our IMSA GTU 911 in about '90. Painted it white. HUGE mistake. No matter how much you try to keep it clean - well, it's just impossible. Then, there's NO way to get a rag in between the cables and wires you have clamped or wrapped to it. Trust me, a dark color is the way to go on a tube car you're going to drive! (Sorry JOP, didn't mean to hijack your build thread.)
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  8. #87

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    Quote Originally Posted by kraftee View Post
    No matter how much you try to keep it clean - well, it's just impossible.
    I'm not a car polisher, but good point. Having open wheels and no hood sides will be fun from the dirt-in-your-teeth perspective
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  9. #88
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Double checked to make sure I could install/remove the lower firewall without issue if went forward with running the brake lines. Seemed to be ok so I installed the pedal box...IMG_3805.jpg

    Then went ahead with the brake lines...IMG_3806.jpgIMG_3810.jpg

    I also went ahead and installed the hubs, torqued the spindle nuts and capped them...IMG_3804.jpg
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  10. #89
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I am ordering some Lizard Skin Heatshield and Sound Barrier to spray on the firewall, so I am trying to hold off on it until next weekend. My Brother-in-Law has graciously offered up a set of rollers until I can overcome my inability to make a decision about wheels and tires. So my Dad and I are headed to Sulphur Springs tomorrow morning to pick them up. 18's & 20's...I'll try to swing by a local tire shop on the way home and see if they have any "maypops" for cheap to put on the 20's. Will try to get the remainder of the brake lines ran this weekend along with installing the actual brakes.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  11. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    I installed the pedal box...IMG_3805.jpg
    In that picture you see the balance bar clearly. If you use a bias knob you can see how much more room there is to attach it on
    the outboard end of the threaded shaft. The lack of the angled brace on that side eliminates the rubbing and space issues you have
    when you put it on the inboard side like the instructions say to do. The cable makes a nice easy loop and ends up anywhere you want.
    HTH
    DB

  12. #91
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    Don't expect miracles from Lizard Skin. I used both the sound and heat barriers on the entire underside of my fiberglass bodied car, plus inside the doors, behind the doors and the firewall. Aluminum conducts a lot more heat than fiberglass, so I recommend additional insulation in addition to the Lizard Skin. Closed cell neoprene foam works fairly well. On the inside floor of my car, I put 2 layers of B-quiet sound control, then glued down one layer of 1/4" neoprene foam. When it came time to install carpet, I cut another layer of 1/4" foam and just laid it on to of the first layer. The I cut carpet to fit and glued that foam to the carpet. That allows the foam backed carpet to be removed, is needed.

    I have a fair amount of empty space between the body and some interior aluminum "upholstery" panels, so I filled all the spaces with fiberglass insulation. Some of my aluminum panels also received layers of neoprene foam up to 3/4" thick to help reduce noise and reject outside heat.

    My car also has a fully insulated headliner made from 3/4" structural core foam, covered with fiberglass and painted flat black. I need every bit of this insulation to help the air conditioning system work adequately.

  13. #92
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveS53 View Post
    Don't expect miracles from Lizard Skin. I used both the sound and heat barriers on the entire underside of my fiberglass bodied car, plus inside the doors, behind the doors and the firewall. Aluminum conducts a lot more heat than fiberglass, so I recommend additional insulation in addition to the Lizard Skin. Closed cell neoprene foam works fairly well. On the inside floor of my car, I put 2 layers of B-quiet sound control, then glued down one layer of 1/4" neoprene foam. When it came time to install carpet, I cut another layer of 1/4" foam and just laid it on to of the first layer. The I cut carpet to fit and glued that foam to the carpet. That allows the foam backed carpet to be removed, is needed.

    I have a fair amount of empty space between the body and some interior aluminum "upholstery" panels, so I filled all the spaces with fiberglass insulation. Some of my aluminum panels also received layers of neoprene foam up to 3/4" thick to help reduce noise and reject outside heat.

    My car also has a fully insulated headliner made from 3/4" structural core foam, covered with fiberglass and painted flat black. I need every bit of this insulation to help the air conditioning system work adequately.
    I just wanted something in addition to the pre-cuts from factory five that I will apply before carpet install. I will actually spray this on the cockpit side of the firewall and then attach to chassis, then apply the FFR sound/heat shield.

    ...As always, I try to go in with low expectations and always come out thoroughly impressed.

    Thanks
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  14. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    I will actually spray this on the cockpit side of the firewall and then attach to chassis, Thanks
    The LS will be lumpy and not allow the firewall to nest properly against the chassis tubes if you do it that way.
    On my 33
    I traced the chassis tubes on the cockpit side of the firewall, then covered all those stripes with strapping tape.
    Leave an inch extra at each end of the tape and fold that over on itself to make a pull tab. Now apply the lizard
    skin and then pull the tape off while it's all still wet. This leaves the mating area clean and flat. I then sprayed that
    part with the aerosol version of liquid electrical tape that I got at Lowes in the electrical aisle. This puts a thin/flat
    layer of rubber where the firewall mates to the chassis. It lets you remove it later if needed by just drilling out the
    rivets since it's not bonded like silicone would be. It still isolates a little bit for sound and the did-similar metals too.

    I put my firewall on with 1/4 28 button heads both for the look and for the ease of removing it to drill for heater/AC,
    harness holes etc. while mocking up and assembling the car. I also bought the internal firewall from Mike and used 1"
    of foam between the 2 panels since the chassis tubes create that space anyway. Then I made footwell false panels and
    used the same insulation there and Boom mat on the cockpit side.
    Dale

  15. #94
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    The LS will be lumpy and not allow the firewall to nest properly against the chassis tubes if you do it that way.
    On my 33
    I traced the chassis tubes on the cockpit side of the firewall, then covered all those stripes with strapping tape.
    Leave an inch extra at each end of the tape and fold that over on itself to make a pull tab. Now apply the lizard
    skin and then pull the tape off while it's all still wet. This leaves the mating area clean and flat. I then sprayed that
    part with the aerosol version of liquid electrical tape that I got at Lowes in the electrical aisle. This puts a thin/flat
    layer of rubber where the firewall mates to the chassis. It lets you remove it later if needed by just drilling out the
    rivets since it's not bonded like silicone would be. It still isolates a little bit for sound and the did-similar metals too.

    I put my firewall on with 1/4 28 button heads both for the look and for the ease of removing it to drill for heater/AC,
    harness holes etc. while mocking up and assembling the car. I also bought the internal firewall from Mike and used 1"
    of foam between the 2 panels since the chassis tubes create that space anyway. Then I made footwell false panels and
    used the same insulation there and Boom mat on the cockpit side.
    Dale
    Appreciate all the great feedback! I may steal a few (or all of those)...Thanks!
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  16. #95
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I was able to build up the front rotors this weekend...IMG_3815.jpg

    Installed the calipers...IMG_3816.jpgIMG_3820.jpg

    I don't trust myself, so I bought a paint marker to mark bolts as I torque them...IMG_3819.jpg

    I was also able to install the Ford Racing diff cover, it seemed to be pretty straight forward...IMG_3837.jpg

    Went ahead and filled with oil and friction modifier while I had it out from under the car...IMG_3835.jpgIMG_3836.jpg

    Moser spared no expense on this sexy rear axle vent...IMG_3838.jpg

    I assume you just run a hose from it up to random place on the frame, I will check into this a little more.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  17. #96
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    Your vent fitting most likely has a 1/8" pipe thread. I use an elbow fitting with a 1/4" lawn mower fuel filter stuck in it, to keep dirt out. I also tried a little vent from Summit Racing that has porous bronze filter material, but it doesn't flow air easily, so I ditched it. It may be adequate.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-3406

  18. #97
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    So I was able to spend some more time on the build this week. Things definitely move slower when you are working with a painted product, but I am also torquing and greasing as I go along this time. I prepped the rear end to go back on the chassis. So far this has been the biggest pain (well except for forming the brake lines), so maybe not the biggest, but a pain. It's just awkward in shape and weight and now add the fact that it and the chassis are both painted, I found it challenging both times I have installed it...uh, we installed it. Yes, my lovely wife has now installed her second rear end in her life both in less than about three months, but I sure couldn't have done it with out here. The positioning and tweaking to get the bolts to line up just right...let's just leave at that I (and she) are glad it's back in!
    Rear end prep...IMG_3850.jpg

    And now it's back on...IMG_3853.jpgIMG_3855.jpg

    I think I mentioned earlier that my Brother-in-law loaned me a set of wheels just so I could the car rolling and on the ground...18x7.5's and 20x10's. He had them on a 68' Dodge, so the profile on the tires were a little bigger than I needed. Luckily there is a place just down the road that hooked me up with some used rubber for just a couple hundred dollars. I hope to have these on later today after I get the rear brakes installed.
    Loaner wheels...IMG_3858.jpg

    Oh by the way does anyone know what this is?IMG_3862.jpg

    Maybe this will help...IMG_3863.jpg
    As luck would have it, I was installing the front rotors to the rotor hats and the LAST bolt broke as I was torquing it. So now I have one rotor with a sheared 1/4-20 bolt red loctited in. I have reached out to Wilwood in hopes they could offer some support on this and they came back and said "they'd be happy to replace the hardware". I told them I greatly appreciate their support and if the rotor and hat are not mangled after I try and remove the bolt that I might take them up on that $0.75 bolt! Anyway, at this point it is on the vehicle and I do have a very large reminder on my whiteboard about it, but I haven't decided how I am going to tackle it yet.

    I also received in the Lizard Skin from Jegs this week. I purchased both the Sound & Heat shield. This is prepping the firewall (thanks myjones) to spray the sound deadner as LS suggest spraying it first when using both...IMG_3864.jpg

    I did end up scuffing the paint with a scotchbrite pad and wiping it down with thinner prior to spaying as well.

    LS Sound Deadner...IMG_3865.jpg
    I was hoping to get away with just taping it off one time, but after going to the LS website, they instruct you to wait a minimum of 24 hours before applying the heatshield, so I went ahead and removed the tape and let it dry for a day. I taped it back off and then sprayed the heatshield...IMG_3879.jpgIMG_3880.jpg
    Both products were easy to work with and sprayed on fine with easy cleanup...just have to see how it works and holds up.
    Last edited by JOP33; 06-18-2017 at 10:07 AM.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  19. #98
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    While I was waiting on the Lizardskin to dry, I was able to get the tie rods on as well...IMG_3868.jpgIMG_3869.jpgIMG_3870.jpg

    So this is the chassis currently...IMG_3872.jpgIMG_3873.jpgIMG_3874.jpgIMG_3875.jpg

    I hope to get the brakes on later today and have this thing in wheels and tires by evening!
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  20. #99
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I was able to move from just a "chassis" to a "rolling chassis"...wheels and tires are just temps, but it feels like another milestone.
    IMG_3885.jpgIMG_3886.jpgIMG_3887.jpg
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  21. #100
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Has anyone had issues shimming the rear brake calipers on the Wilwood's? I guess issues is a relative term...I had to shim .200" to get the caliper centered in the rotor per instructions. This seemed a little excessive...IMG_3894.jpg

    Also, does anyone have good pics of how they routed their e-brake from rear calipers back to mounting tab near trans loop?

    Thanks
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  22. #101
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    I would say that something is wrong if that many of the .035" washers are needed. The bolt is probably not long enough to use that many.

    Do I see a little gap between the end of the blue axle housing and the adapter plate?
    Last edited by DaveS53; 06-21-2017 at 02:31 PM.

  23. #102
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Yes, rear brakes. This is the actual kit...http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...f+8.8+Rear+End. Installed same driver side and didn't have as big of issue. I will tear down and reinstall tonight and see if I can figure out where the issue is at.

    Thanks
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  24. #103
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    Jamie you are doing well, I have had trouble with the rear brakes as well getting the gap the same on both sides of the caliper, I ended up with several washers. Then remember you will have to remove the calipers from the mounts to rotate them to 3 or 9 0'clock to get them bled. I have a professional bleeding system that pressurizes the reservoir, you can bleed the brakes without any help if your wife isn't available. Remind me when you come over for the "ride"!

  25. #104
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    Great Progress

  26. #105
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    Not sure which pads you have but IIRC some Mustang disc brake pads have a thick and thin pad. The difference is only a little but that
    doubles the offset if you have them in the wrong place. It's worth a look.
    Dale

  27. #106
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    I have spent a little time the last couple of days working on the rear brakes. My set-up in the rear was requiring 6 shims to get the caliper casting centered on the rotor. I spoke with Wilwood and they said that typically they don't advise using more than 4 shims, but in some cases they have seen the need for more. I checked the measurements off the flange and everything seemed to be correct. I also double-checked to make sure the register washer was also sitting flush. I ended up flipping the C flange bracket (or flipping sides) so that the offset went the other way. This gave me an additional .100" and dropped my shim requirement down to 3.

    C Flange Bracket Flipped...IMG_3907.jpg

    I was at Home Depot the other day I came across a piece of tubing that is apparently used on a pressure washer for soap dispensing (I don't really know how all of that works), but it seemed to look like something that would make a good rear end vent hose...IMG_3908.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  28. #107
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    Build is looking Great JOP33 !

  29. #108
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    Thanks MW 33! It's been enjoyable so far...I keep waiting for the other foot to fall!

    After I came to a compromising solution to my rear brake caliper shim issue, I move on to the e-brakes. They are just held in place with bungees as of right now since I am a little hesitant to mount them permanently until I figure out the exhaust routing...
    IMG_3909.jpgIMG_3910.jpgIMG_3911.jpgIMG_3912.jpgIMG_3913.jpgIMG_3914.jpgIMG_3915.jpgIMG_3916.jpgIMG_3917.jpgIMG_3918.jpg
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  30. #109
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    I also worked on the firewall a bit. I had already sprayed the Lizard Skin Heat and Sound barrier, but as others of you have done I went back to the area that was going to contact the the chassis and sprayed a thin film of Plast-Dip spray on. I wasn't real impressed with this as a solution (or my application of it as a solution), so I also went back with some rubber 1/16" washers before attaching the firewall. I am sure this thing will be off another 50 times, but it was good to see it up there...

    Plasti-Dip...IMG_3921.jpgIMG_3922.jpg

    Then rubber washers...IMG_3923.jpgIMG_3924.jpgIMG_3925.jpg
    I used just a little stick glue to hold them in place before mounting.

    After floating a loan for the chrome button heads for this thing, I decided to go ahead and see what it would look like...IMG_3926.jpgIMG_3927.jpg

    Lots more to get done this week.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  31. Likes Noodles33 liked this post
  32. #110

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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    I also went back with some rubber 1/16" washers before attaching the firewall

    Then rubber washers...IMG_3923.jpgIMG_3924.jpgIMG_3925.jpg
    I used just a little stick glue to hold them in place before mounting.
    I've been thinking about this - how will you seal that? Haven't you now got many air gaps between the washers into the engine bay?
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  33. #111
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    The washers are only 1/16" thick so they compress pretty well while added some vibration protection. I will still have FFR precut sound and heat deadner as well on the inside. Probably a solid rubber gasket between would have been the most functional solution, but after speaking with others, I think unless you spray something from the inside to encapsulate the firewall and tubing you are going to have air seapage. I have not completely ruled that or going back with a solid gasket out.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  34. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    So last weekend was a complete failure with regards to running the brake lines. I had flare tooling issues (after issues), wasn't impressed with FFR options for running and went off on my own (not a good idea either) and just didn't not like working with the rhino lines that FFR provided...all of that being said, I chock most of the issues up to my experience routing and flaring brake line (uh, none to this point). Here are just a couple of things from a novice's perspective I wanted to mention (take it for what it's worth, again novice)...

    1. IMHO, go ahead and purchase a coil of NiCopp line, a straightener and a "decent" flaring tool. The Rhino Lines supplied probably work great if you can stay in the realm of exactly where they are suppose to run, the NiCopp, cuts, bends & flares soooooo much easier.

    2. Several of the less expensive flaring tools tell you to use the die adapter to set the height of the tube before forming...what I found is when I flushed the tube to that height, the pin got stuck in the tube and had to be pry'd out (in most cases damaging the flare). I was more successful with going just slightly shy of the full height.

    3. Ultimately, I ended up bending small pieces for transitions in difficult to reach areas and then using unions on the straight pieces to attach.

    4. I strayed from the suggested mounting locations a couple of times, only to later slap my hand on my head when I realized the reason FFR just didn't tell you to hang it in this "wide open" space (I forgot that the exhaust will also need to run through the rearend).

    5. Finally, if you would like to make the perfect bent piece with perfect, beautiful, professional flares, 100% of the time (I guarantee), just don't put the fittings on before you flare the tube! Just kidding guys, I don't know how many times, I patted myself on the back after a flare just to look down and see that I had forgotten the fitting!

    Anyway, here are the results of two weekends and this was just to dry fit...I will remove and re-install after powder, that's when the leaks will appear

    Attachment 67546

    Attachment 67547

    Attachment 67548

    Attachment 67549

    Attachment 67550

    Attachment 67551
    What diameter tubing did you use?

  35. #113
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    What diameter tubing did you use?
    3/16" Nicopp
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  36. #114
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Mounted brake reservoirs and closed the brake system up (in theory), will bleed system tomorrow...

    IMG_3929.jpgIMG_3930.jpg
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  37. #115

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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    Mounted brake reservoirs and closed the brake system up (in theory), will bleed system tomorrow...
    Using the tube and tie-wrap trick for a spacer I see

    Good luck with the bleeding, which tool/method are you using? There seem to be a lot of choices..
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  38. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Using the tube and tie-wrap trick for a spacer I see

    Good luck with the bleeding, which tool/method are you using? There seem to be a lot of choices..
    Yes...seems to do the job. I'll start with the vacuum method, but may end up with the old fashioned "buddy" pedal pump system.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  39. #117
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Spent a little time today building a "buck" for the body. Since the kit was delivered, I had been storing all the body panels on my two post lift...
    IMG_3947.jpg

    I am actually wanting to move the chassis to the lift now, so I needed to come up with another way to store the body, but would like for it to be mobile, this seemed to fit the bill...
    IMG_3946.jpg

    IMG_3950.jpg

    This allowed me to get the chassis up on the lift...
    IMG_3948.jpg

    Didn't get as far as the brake bleed today, but I'm hopeful to press forward over the next couple of days...
    IMG_3949.jpgIMG_3951.jpg
    BTW...the movers dollies you see up against the wall are a great "cost effective" alternative to the wheel dollies that allow you to move the car. Each cost less than $10 at Harbor Freight and hold 1000 lbs each. I had the chassis with tires and wheels up on them for several days and it allowed me to roll the chassis around as needed.
    Last edited by JOP33; 07-04-2017 at 08:14 PM.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  40. #118
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    Really Really looking good

  41. #119
    Senior Member Tampa33Build's Avatar
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    Good start, looks great
    I was thinking about using the moving dollies vs. buying the wheel dollies. Will most likely never need the dollies after the build is complete. Glad to see they worked.

  42. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tampa33Build View Post
    Good start, looks great
    I was thinking about using the moving dollies vs. buying the wheel dollies. Will most likely never need the dollies after the build is complete. Glad to see they worked.
    I screwed upside down 5 gal buckets to my moving dollies so it sat higher and was easy to move around and work on for the suspension assembly.
    Up until the engine and tranny go in the dollies and buckets are fine for the weight, no need to buy the rolling stock until later doing it that way.
    HTH
    Dale
    7L hemi 33

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