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Thread: Boss 427 Build

  1. #201
    Boydster's Avatar
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    No input overnight, thats OK, means other people are thinking the same as me...
    "Huh?" Either that or everyone knows and they're like "dude... really?!?!"

    After walking away and thinking over breakfast this am, I recalled that whenever I jacked one corner, it at least partially unloaded the other side... in other words, the frame is so stiff that you could jack the whole front end from one corner. (I suspect that if you had the means, this MkIV frame would allow you to jack 3 tires off the ground from one corner). So it also makes sense that what I've done is raise the whole front end, although unevenly, using the front left shock / spring, then just made a little adjustment to the right front to make that side equal. Hence, frame heights about the same but the springs are way off. If I was able to take it out n drive it, after a few bumps and brake hits, I might come back and find everything out of whack again.

    I'm going to start over with both springs equal, then screw the collars down in equal, smallish amounts (instead of trying to set one corner then the other in large amounts) until I get the center of the frame crossmember tube to the height I want. Then we'll see how the end of the main frame tubes measure up. I think she'll come together nicely.

    Back to work...
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  2. #202
    Senior Member broku518's Avatar
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    wow, that is just weird. Don't make any sense to me. I just check mine, they are both 2 1/4 inch.
    If you have the floor level, frame level, I would think it would either be a spring or the shock itself.
    Life is short, so start living it.
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-in-the-garage!
    delivery date: 10/31/2017, first start 2/24/2018, title and registration passed 6/22/2018

  3. #203
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boydster View Post
    I'm going to start over with both springs equal, then screw the collars down in equal, smallish amounts (instead of trying to set one corner then the other in large amounts) until I get the center of the frame crossmember tube to the height I want. Then we'll see how the end of the main frame tubes measure up. I think she'll come together nicely. Back to work...
    That's exactly how you have to do it unless you have corner weight scales. Don't try to adjust side-to-side. You could create a dangerous condition. Adjust all four with the suspension hanging and the collars just touching the springs. Then set it back down, check ride height, and adjust both sides (2 front, 2 rear) the exact amount for each adjustment. Agreed the suspension is stiff, so hard to bounce it much when you set it back down. I usually roll it back and forth a few feet and that seems to settle it down OK. You may end up with a slight difference from side-to-side. 1/8-inch or whatever. Don't worry about it or try to adjust it. If it's a large difference, I would suspect the springs aren't the same. BTW, I've done all my builds this way. Out of curiosity, was able to borrow a corner weight scale setup and check #8674. It was almost perfect. Didn't touch a thing.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  4. #204
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul. It worked out well and my thinking was accurate. Thanks for the backup.

    I'll put up a longer post later today, but got all the ride heights set, rear axle centered and square, and got the caster, camber and toe set with the wheels straight ahead. Took about 8 hours, but got it done.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  5. #205
    Boydster's Avatar
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    So it's time for ride height and alignment. There's a lot of posts out there, but nothing too recent, so I'll give a little overview of how I did it.

    First was the steering rack. Back when I installed the rack and steering shaft, I followed the procedure in this post by Karlos from a few years ago. So I knew my steering rack and wheel were centered.

    Ride height is next. After my little fiasco in a previous post, I figured that we have to adjust the shocks in small amounts and equally to maintain the same spring pressure side-to-side and very close to equal heights. I did as Paul / Edwardb suggested and with the suspension hanging, set the collars right down on the springs. I measured the shocks from the top of the spring collar to the top of the threaded tube to make sure they were equal. The fronts and rears were at 2.5". Even though I used silicone spray on the threads and did my adjustments with the suspension hanging, I still could not turn the collars by hand once the spring started compressing. So I used my Koni shock adjustment spanner that I had previously gotten from Breeze (cheaper than Amazon!). Got the rear frame height set to 5.5" with 3" on both shocks and the front crossmember is at 4.25" at center with 3.25" on the shocks. Good place to start as I expect it to settle and also to have to adjust after getting the body installed.

    Next I wanted to make sure the 8.8 is square in the chassis. This is done with the panhard bar and the Breeze adjustable lower trailing arms. I measured in several places from the axle (not the brakes or tires) to the frame and found that while it was square with the frame, it was sitting about 1" to the right. I ran strings on jackstands off the rear sidewalls and then measured from string to chassis and confirmed it was over too far. Adjusted the panhard bar and got it solid in the middle. Cool.

    Now for the front suspension. Caster & camber, then toe. I used some alignment plates I borrowed from a friend of mine... I had tried the wax paper thing and the tires just tore it up. Didnt have any large plates around nor any floor tiles. The turn plates worked very well and it was quite easy to turn the wheels back n forth many, many times. I also used the FasTrax Caster / Camber Gauge along with their toe plates.

    Setting the caster gets you started, but it will change as you then adjust the camber. I was shooting for +8* caster, -.5* camber for a power system. I mistakenly wasted about 2 hours when I realized I was using the wrong 0* mark and only had 3* caster set in when I was reading 8*. Be sure to use the right scale. So as you set the caster and camber, working back and forth, you'll find the adjustment amounts getting smaller and smaller until it all comes right into place. Beautiful. I did NOT have to cut or modify the upper arm tubes in any way. I had read of so many people that did need to do this that I was expecting to.

    I did one wheel, then the other. Went back and forth and double checked several times. She's good. Time to work on Toe.

    First step was to center my steering wheel and strap it down. I ran a ratchet strap to the brake pedal to hold the wheel centered. Using the FasTrax toe plates made it really easy. I clamped a level to one wheel (making sure it was against the wheel lip and not being held out by the tire sidewall... the 17"ers dont have much sidewall bulge) and found the wheels only had about 1/4" toe in, but by checking with strings, they were pointing out to the right. I brought both tires back to straight, verified by running strings and measuring from string to the frame back by the door latch area. Very small adjustments make a big difference when measured that far away. With the wheels set straight, I was easily able to use 2 tape measures to check the toe. Got her adjusted to 1/8" toe in... each tire toed in 1/16" from straight and verified by the 2 tapes across both tires.

    Went back and double checked everything... ride heights, equal shocks, rear square and centered, steering wheel centered with tires straight ahead, caster, camber, toe in. Shes set pretty good, I think, and I feel good about the way I measured and verified.

    [edit] To sum up my settings... 5.5" rear height, 4.25" front height, R Front caster +8* camber -.5*, L Front caster +8-8.25* camber -.5*, total toe in 1/8" [end edit]

    One step closer to go-cart!





    Last edited by Boydster; 03-17-2018 at 08:20 PM.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  6. #206
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Looks great! I've enjoyed learning how to do my own alignments and it's satisfying when it's done and drives properly. Couple hints. Those turn plates look nice so good you had that option. Wax paper I agree wouldn't be up to the task. I use heavy duty plastic trash bags. I cut one bag into four pieces and have used the same pieces for several years on multiple alignments. Two stacked pieces on each side. Slide around easily and seem to be holding up fine. The one disadvantage is you have to figure out the 15 degree angle for the caster. The turn plates are nice having the direct readout. For setting ride height, I always jack the car up to make the adjustments, taking the spring pressure off the collars. Many others recommend the same thing.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  7. #207
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Looks great! I've enjoyed learning how to do my own alignments and it's satisfying when it's done and drives properly. Couple hints. Those turn plates look nice so good you had that option. Wax paper I agree wouldn't be up to the task. I use heavy duty plastic trash bags. I cut one bag into four pieces and have used the same pieces for several years on multiple alignments. Two stacked pieces on each side. Slide around easily and seem to be holding up fine. The one disadvantage is you have to figure out the 15 degree angle for the caster. The turn plates are nice having the direct readout. For setting ride height, I always jack the car up to make the adjustments, taking the spring pressure off the collars. Many others recommend the same thing.
    Thanks for the support. Kind of daunting when you're undertaking it for the first time. But pretty cool once you get into it. As I got close to the final settings, I was adjusting 1 flat at a time. I'll remember the garbage bag trick if I need to visit this again and cant get the plates.

    With the springs, I did start with the car jacked, springs unloaded and ran the collars down until the spring was secure. That was my 2.5" measurement from the top of the collar to the top of the threaded shock tube. So all the spring freedom has been taken out with the wheel in the air, just to start. I could only turn the collars maybe another 1/2 to 1 full turn by hand. Eventually, they had to screw down another 3/4 inch, so had to use the spanner to compress that spring. With the car jacked. Even the wheel had to be removed each time because there's not enough room to swing the spanner. I dont how you guys do it by hand.

    Maybe I need to clarify this... when I now jack my car under the frame to wheel off the ground, my springs are still in tension and tight in place. They do not come loose. And there's no way I can turn the collar by hand to compress that spring.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  8. #208
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boydster View Post
    Maybe I need to clarify this... when I now jack my car under the frame to wheel off the ground, my springs are still in tension and tight in place. They do not come loose. And there's no way I can turn the collar by hand to compress that spring.
    Hmm... That's not my experience. With the collars just touching the springs, the ride height is typically too high. So once you start measuring, it's necessary to back off the collar a turn at a time or whatever to lower the ride height. At least with the Koni shocks and Factory Five springs I've used, at final ride height, both front and rear springs are loose by quite a bit when the car is jacked up and the suspension hanging. That's one of the reasons the instructions say to tie wrap the spring to the top hat. So that it stays seated even with the spring loose. But I'm also just noticing you have the rear ride height set at 5.5. That's pretty high. Any particular reason? Most including me have it at least an inch lower than that.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  9. #209
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Hmm... That's not my experience. With the collars just touching the springs, the ride height is typically too high. So once you start measuring, it's necessary to back off the collar a turn at a time or whatever to lower the ride height. At least with the Koni shocks and Factory Five springs I've used, at final ride height, both front and rear springs are loose by quite a bit when the car is jacked up and the suspension hanging. That's one of the reasons the instructions say to tie wrap the spring to the top hat. So that it stays seated even with the spring loose. But I'm also just noticing you have the rear ride height set at 5.5. That's pretty high. Any particular reason? Most including me have it at least an inch lower than that.
    No particular reason for the 5.5". I read somewhere that about 5" is good in the rear, nice rake, looks good. I left it a little high so it could settle some. I can try it lower.

    My front springs and shocks def do not act like what you've described. With the car jacked, collars just set on the top of the spring (top of collar 2.5" from top of threaded tube), Drop the car down and the frame height as measured at the front tie-downs on the main tubes would be about 3.5". So had to screw the collar down to bring up the height. Maybe I'm not measuring at the correct point? Further back is certainly higher...

    Went out to the garage and 2x checked that i have the correct springs and shocks in the correct places... 500# springs in front, PN 14626. 350# springs in rear, PN 25612. Jack front wheel clear, front shock measures a hair over 15" extended.

    I cant imagine what might be wrong...
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  10. #210
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Is it possible we are discussing setting ride heights with no engine vs having an engine installed? I can see where mine would certainly act more like yours if there was no engine and being done during the build vs how I'm doing it now at almost driving weight (no body).

    Did some searching and found a post or two where others had the same situation as me, but nothing was ever posted up as to any findings...
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  11. #211
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boydster View Post
    No particular reason for the 5.5". I read somewhere that about 5" is good in the rear, nice rake, looks good. I left it a little high so it could settle some. I can try it lower.

    My front springs and shocks def do not act like what you've described. With the car jacked, collars just set on the top of the spring (top of collar 2.5" from top of threaded tube), Drop the car down and the frame height as measured at the front tie-downs on the main tubes would be about 3.5". So had to screw the collar down to bring up the height. Maybe I'm not measuring at the correct point? Further back is certainly higher...

    Went out to the garage and 2x checked that i have the correct springs and shocks in the correct places... 500# springs in front, PN 14626. 350# springs in rear, PN 25612. Jack front wheel clear, front shock measures a hair over 15" extended.

    I cant imagine what might be wrong...
    I don't know that anything's wrong. Just different than what I've experienced and others that I'm aware of. With the amount of rake you're running, that would make some difference. But don't know that accounts for all of it in the front. I normally measure the ride height on the 4-inch tubes pretty much in-line with the axles. I do 3.75 front, 4.25 rear, starting a little more than that when new. With 5.5 rear ride height, doesn't necessarily hurt anything. But I agree it's probably necessary to tighten the collar to push it up to get that height. Probably showing a pretty good gap between the top of the tire the wheel well too.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  12. #212
    Boydster's Avatar
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    I've looked it over and over. I'm going to drop the rear some more and revisit the front to drop it some more, maybe as much as 1/2". Get it Go-carted and see how she does.

    Thanks for the help...
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  13. #213
    Boydster's Avatar
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    I'm not going to fret over this too much more. I'm convinced there is nothing wrong with my setup, just somehow my car is different from some others.

    I now have the frame heights set at LF 4-1/16, RF 4-1/4 and LR 4-1/4, RR 4-1/8.
    Both front shocks are set equally at 3.0" and the rears are equal at 1.5", top of collar to lip of threaded tube.

    I'll revisit my alignment later this week and fine tune to get it in for these frame heights. But this should be fine to get me through everything else until I get the body back from Whitby's.

    Thanks for putting up with the posts.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  14. #214
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Successful Go-Cart! Video coming soon...
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  15. #215
    Boydster's Avatar
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    ...and here's the video. She runs pretty good.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Mv1P6pj4mM
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  16. #216
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    She runs great!
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  17. #217
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Wow. Got to do a First Go-Kart on the Boss and then got called out of town for some unexpected training. For those that care, the company is pulling out our 767 and giving us MD-11's. Completely new beast that I've never worked on, so lots of training. PS -> I tookoff, flew about 1/2 hour and then landed the MD-11 full flight sim at headquarters. May have been an ugly landing, but we lived. Not bad for a mechanic. Yowza.

    Anyways, finally getting back to the build. Pulled the center console cover off today and got to work on the leather. 1/8" foam then the Grey hide. Came out pretty good... no wrinkles.



    Riveted the angle brackets back on to mount the switchpanel and installed the seat heater switches. Used a 14mm socket to really push those switches down into the foam until they clicked.



    Had previously installed rivnuts (I'm not even going into what they are made of ! ) to mount the cover, but decided to clean it up and got some of this velcro. Figured it really isnt under any stress like holding the gauges or all those switches. Drilled out the rivnuts and applied the velcro on top of thestructure.



    I think it's looking pretty good for a first-timer with not much imagination. Glad I went with velcro and not 6 more screws.



    Started test fitting all the carpet pieces. I dont see any of these pieces that I want to bind the edges. I know I will near the door, but dang these carpet pieces fit nice n tight. After this pic, I took em all out and sealed up any forgotten holes and painted some of the corners where I didnt want shiny metal to appear. Tomorrow, we glue.



    Not much for 5-6 hours of work, but it felt good to get back to her...
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  18. #218
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Loving the look of that gray leather.
    How you like the Mighty Dog? I currently fly the 717 (MD-95 renamed). It has pretty much the same flight deck in miniature scale. haha
    Any update on the bodywork progress?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  19. #219
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Glad I went with the grey. I think shes gonna look good in the end. I like a bit of contrast. And my stripes are going to be close to the same grey with a splash of color. I'm going Ford Sterling Metallic Grey base.

    Heh, you call her Mighty Dog, we call her Mad Dog. Big airplane. Everything requires ladder work. #2 engine sucks... especially when its not running. Still lots of old DC10 in her, just lots of electronic upgrades. Fuel in the tail is complex; moving adjustable CG. Lots of cables, just like the old 8's. Flight boys love it, very automated flight deck. I get to play when that automation breaks down...

    Never worked the 717... dont think there's much demand for that one in a package freighter version. Delta?

    Have had a hard time getting in touch with Jeff. Its been just over 3 months, so I reckon they havent come across anything negative. Probably sitting outside waiting on some sunshine to bake a little...
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  20. #220
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    That center console looks awesome, I like the use of other than carpet material there. I'm guessing you could probably access the top of the trans by removing it easily.

  21. #221
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidW View Post
    That center console looks awesome, I like the use of other than carpet material there. I'm guessing you could probably access the top of the trans by removing it easily.
    Thanks. Thats the plan, that by quickly removing my switchpanel, I can then remove either the center console cover or the dash in just a few minutes for maintenance / repairs. I'm planning on my stripes being the same relative color as the light gray leather.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  22. #222
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    At Delta the 88 already had the Mad Dog name so when the 11 showed up it got named the Mighty Dog.
    Good luck with it!!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  23. #223
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Spent more time with the Boss today. I had set the pinion angle and ujoint angles earlier in the build, but I knew it wasnt right and never felt confident about it. Spent some time reading last night and got a good grip on it.

    The object being to: get the rear 1* lower than parallel to the trans (all heim joints), both ujoints <or= 1* difference from each other and both ujoints less than 3* each.

    After several hours, I got it really close. Just like the front end alignment, when you change 1 thing, it changes other stuff. So there's a lot of back n forth. In the end, I got the rear down 1.1* from parallel with the trans and the ujoints are at .2* front and .7* rear. Required a 1 1/8" spacer under the trans, kinda high, but still clear of everything in the tunnel (wiring, ebrake cables, handle, etc). Notice I'm not saying what my actual degrees were.... they dont matter. And they would be different on my floor compared to your floor. What matters is the relationship between each item in the equation.

    With that out of the way, I installed the Metco driveshaft safety loop. Glad I got in on the group buy for this back before I got the car.

    From up top...


    And from below...


    This adds a nice safety measure for not much work and I have looked at the proximity of that driveshaft to some very valuable parts a few times...
    Also, while it was up on stands, retorqued the rear axle cover bolts because of a little drip I've been seeing back there. Turns out they were just a touch over hand tight. Torqued em down to 25 ft/lbs.
    Started gluing in all the interior carpet, but will save those pics for the whole thing tomorrow.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  24. #224
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Finished up a bunch of interior items today... the carpet, bolting in the belts, seats are in position (not bolted), final install center console and switch panel... it looks a little muted in black and gray, but I think it looks nice. No shifter knob yet... I've left it up to my brother as he wants to buy that for me. I'm pretty happy... it's custom without being brash, I fit, it feels good, and I feel I've done everything the best I can. Except the wiring... that needs cleaning up. And there's a few things I might have done differently, but I'm happy with what I've got so far.

    Anyways, some pics...


    Note that I removed the badging from the seats and the belts... I like that clean look. May try to get some Factory 5 stickers for the seatbelt camlocks.







    Last edited by Boydster; 05-03-2018 at 05:13 PM.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  25. #225
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    Looks awesome!! I like the leather shifter boot, I just ordered the leather boot for mine, I guess my rubber boot that came in the kit wasn't exactly centered and the stiffness of the rubber kept pulling it out of 2nd and 4th gears.

    Boyd it looks like your dash panel is a lot higher than the 3/4 tube it mounts on in that picture, probably just the angle of the picture. Looks good I like the gauge layout.

  26. #226
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidW View Post
    Looks awesome!!
    Thanks!!

    Boyd it looks like your dash panel is a lot higher than the 3/4 tube it mounts on in that picture, probably just the angle of the picture. Looks good I like the gauge layout.
    The dash panel screws are dropped down about an inch from the bottom of the 3/4 tube. I left the leather long so it could be peeled back and the aluminum adjusted if need be. I know the edge of the dash is 3/16" above the welded corners as called out. Yeah, I'm pretty happy with the layout too. Thanks!!
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  27. #227
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidW View Post
    I like the leather shifter boot, I just ordered the leather boot for mine, I guess my rubber boot that came in the kit wasn't exactly centered and the stiffness of the rubber kept pulling it out of 2nd and 4th gears.
    The leather shift and ebrake boots and trim rings came from Lokar, same as the ebrake handle and mechanism. The 427 replica shift handle is from **********. It works nicely, but it can be a bugger trying to get the boot to stay in place while screwing it all down.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  28. #228
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Looking good. Factory five supplies really nice (enamel and chrome) hood, trunk and steering wheel emblems with the complete kits. Check the size of those for your seat belt camlocks. If they are the right size they would look good and hold up better that the decals. Just a thought.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  29. #229
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    Steve, those emblems come in the base kit as well. From the camlocks I've used, I suspect they will be too large, but only Boydster would be able to answer that for his particular harnesses.

  30. #230
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    Looking good. Factory five supplies really nice (enamel and chrome) hood, trunk and steering wheel emblems with the complete kits. Check the size of those for your seat belt camlocks. If they are the right size they would look good and hold up better that the decals. Just a thought.
    -Steve
    I'll do a comparo and see how it looks. I have the badges that came with the kit. They may look good, may be too big. I'll try it.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  31. #231
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Fun day, raising money to help homeless companion animals.

    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  32. #232
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    Looks big next to the red car! How did you register it for the show, as a work in progress or build, or as you are going to register it for tags?

  33. #233
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    That interior looks so cool.
    I have a very light leather interior in my 911. As I was deciding on it I read lots of stuff about the surface getting dirty or discolored. I spoke with a professional detailer and he recommended this product. I am very happy with the results so far. May be worth considering to help keep that great looking interior looking clean and new!

    https://opticoat.com/page/opti-guard-leather
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  34. #234
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidW View Post
    Looks big next to the red car! How did you register it for the show, as a work in progress or build, or as you are going to register it for tags?
    There was no real registering, just making a donation to the local SPCA. No awards or trophies, just a good ol' fundraiser.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  35. #235
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Thanks much for the kind words and product, Scott.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  36. #236
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Boydster, It looks great! I definitely couldn't go with light colored leather like that , it would be dirty in no time in my hands

    Mark
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  37. #237
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Eaton View Post
    Boydster, It looks great! I definitely couldn't go with light colored leather like that , it would be dirty in no time in my hands

    Mark
    Thanks Mark. I'm a mechanic, so I get dirty too. Just gonna be a labor of love to keep her clean...
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  38. #238
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    Havent been doing much on the Boss, just tinkering here and there, waiting to hear from Whitby's on a timeline to take her down for fitting.

    Bought a new trailer and kit for building my own Serpent Express. Pretty neat setup. Dont know how much I will be using it, but I know there will be at least 2 more round trips to Whitby's and then probably 2 local trailerings before tags are issued.Trailer is a 16' long, dual axle, dual brakes, emergency brake, led rear lights, full steel diamond plate with a 4' drop tail and on-board ramps. I then replaced all the side marker lights with same style LED's.

    In Process:


    Did another car show at the County Animal Control / Dog Pound. There were enough really nice machines to blow the place out and people were parking blocks away to see the show. One of the nicest cars IMHO was a 1967 Shelby GT500 Mustang that had been rebuilt by the owner from the ground up. It was spotless and almost perfect in every way. This car had an interesting history, part of which was Sports Car Club racing in Japan.

    Gary Luigi joined me with his Coyote powered MkIV. He just got legal this year and has already been autocrossing quite a few times. We made sure to get parking together so we could show kind of a with-and-without-body type comparison. We did get into some interesting conversations through the day. One guy insistently kept asking what kind of car it was built on. He just could not grasp that it is its own design.

    Me and Gary, soaking up some shade






    One thing we discovered that had been bugging me for a while... Every once in a while when running the engine, I'd get a puff of smoke off the left header. Couldnt ever figure it out. At the show, I saw a wet spot about the size of 1/2 sheet of paper under the left header where it bolts to the sidepipe. Gary and I traced it up to a leaking clutch reservoir. I used 3 of the F5 fluid reservoirs and it turns out one was leaking at the outlet fitting.

    Got home and dug in to investigate. I have 1/8"NPT 90* to 3/8" hose barb fittings in there. Of course, these can only be tightened so far so as to point in the direction needed. But even when using Loktite thread sealant, OK for brake fluid, it still leaked. Maybe it has a crack or a bad thread. I also found another that was leaking out from under the cap, even after cleaning, drying and not having fluid near the top (?!?!). This one makes no sense to me and I cannot fathom how it is leaking. Anyways, I got tired of dealing with it. Found the classic CNC triple reservoirs that everyone else likes to use on Amazon Prime, so ordered that up and had it here in 2 days, free shipping!! Also ordered 3ea 1/8NPT to -4AN straight fittings and 3ea -4AN to 3/8 hose barb 90* elbows. This will allow me to adjust the direction I need plus get em good n tite so no more leaks.



    Working today on making the mount bracket and getting everything plumbed back in. I like that these new tanks have vent holes in the lids and an expandable diaphragm seal under the cap... allows for expansion and fluid level changes.

    So I have about 7 miles on the Boss so far. Its been fun starting to get to know her and showing her off a bit. Cant wait to get wrapped up with Whitby's and get back to finishing her up.
    Last edited by Boydster; 06-25-2018 at 10:19 AM.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  39. #239
    Senior Member broku518's Avatar
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    Hello Boyd.
    Where did you get the safety loop from? I see it in pictures above. Seems pretty solid and bolt on, right?

    Thanks,
    Martin
    Life is short, so start living it.
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-in-the-garage!
    delivery date: 10/31/2017, first start 2/24/2018, title and registration passed 6/22/2018

  40. #240
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broku518 View Post
    Hello Boyd.
    Where did you get the safety loop from? I see it in pictures above. Seems pretty solid and bolt on, right?

    Thanks,
    Martin
    Yep, very solid, bolt on and quite adjustable, too. I got in on a group buy about 2 years ago, dont know if they will have any pre-made, but please check...

    Metco motorsports

    Factory 5 driveshaft safety loop
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

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