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David aka Ducky2009
Week 27 update. Things I've learned
Make a center dash support (3/32" thick x 12" wide, from the bottom of the dash straight forward to the frame rail) REMOVEABLE if you're mounting the turn signal relays on it. I already have a relay fail.
EDITED: After removing the body, I changed the design to allow removal from inside the car. Attaching screws were originally installed from the top down, making access with the body on impossible.
Buy an extra gauge set-up wire/switch. The clock will need reset. It doesn't keep good time and need to be set back/spring forward, time changes..... Thanks Joel....aka Jdav
Buy the Wilwood calibers or add power brakes. Mustang Cobra calibers with Wilwood dual master cylinders suck.
Alignment - Trim the rear upper control arm to achieve 7 degrees caster. This moves the front wheel towards the rear of the wheel well. While adjusting the body on the chassis, this will help align/center the REAR wheel to the wheel well. If you aren't careful, the rear wheel will be out of center to the wheel well... to far back and LOOK funny. I used the solid rear axle, so adjusting the upper link as short as possible will help bring the wheel forward, helping center the rear wheel to the wheel well. After adjusting (to a short length), I them aligned the pinion angle as needed by adjusting the upper control arm mount.
Also: If you're tall like me, the DS footbox sheet metal rubs on your leg just above the ankle. (can't straighten my right leg all the way). When I remove the body to paint, I'm going to taper the sheet metal, starting close to the gas pedal, to look more like the PS.
Added 9/19/17
I plan to not have a hood scoop. I added the air dam panel at the top of the radiator. The under the hood temp has increased considerably. I can tell this because I haven't added the insulation up the sides of the foot boxes yet, so air is flowing from the engine compartment into the cockpit (at the door hinge area). The air temp flowing thru is much hotter then before the air dam was installed. The engine temp is the same, with and without the dam (85C - 185F). I think I'll remove it, permanently.
Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-29-2023 at 10:37 AM.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
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