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Thread: Ducky2009 MK4 Build #9035

  1. #161
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Week 27 update. Things I've learned

    Don't make a center dash support (12" wide) and mount the turn signal relays on it. I already have a bad relay and can't reach it. Good thing I'm removing the body to paint. I'll add a door underneath and mount the relays on it.
    Buy an extra gauge set-up wire/switch. The clock will need reset. It doesn't keep good time and need to be set back/spring forward, time changes..... Thanks Joel....aka Jdav
    Buy the Wilwood calibers or add power brakes. Mustang Cobra calibers with Wilwood dual master cylinders suck.

    Alignment - Trim the rear upper control arm to achieve 7 degrees caster. This moves the front wheel towards the rear of the wheel well. While adjusting the body on the chassis, this will help align/center the REAR wheel to the wheel well. If you aren't careful, the rear wheel will be out of center to the wheel well... to far back and LOOK funny. I used the solid rear axle, so adjusting the upper link as short as possible will help bring the wheel forward, helping center the rear wheel to the wheel well. After adjusting (to a short length), I them aligned the pinion angle as needed by adjusting the upper control arm mount.

    Also: If you're tall like me, the DS footbox sheet metal rubs on your leg just above the ankle. (can't straighten my right leg all the way). When I remove the body to paint, I'm going to taper the sheet metal, starting close to the gas pedal, to look more like the PS.

    Added 9/19/17
    I plan to not have a hood scoop. I added the air dam panel at the top of the radiator. The under the hood temp has increased considerably. I can tell this because I haven't added the insulation up the sides of the foot boxes yet, so air is flowing from the engine compartment into the cockpit (at the door hinge area). The air temp flowing thru is much hotter then before the air dam was installed. The engine temp is the same, with and without the dam (85C - 185F). I think I'll remove it, permanently.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 10-07-2017 at 10:39 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  2. #162
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Trunk Lid Supports

    Question: What type of trunk supports, struts, lift supports, whatever your brand calls them, did you use? How well did they work? Would you pick them again?

    Thanks,
    David.... aka Ducky2009
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 09-23-2017 at 07:29 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  3. #163
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Weekly Update: Not much happening since my surprise surgery, not 100% but feeling pretty good. Started on my door panels. Had leather left over from the dash. Need to borrow my daughters industrial sewing machine to stitch them up. Not sure what thread to use yet! Decided to use the old style clips to secure to the door. Added a pic - Not my car. Don't like the screws showing. Also want the pockets a little deeper than the pic. Clips allow you to remove if needed (but should never have to) without damaging the clips. Plan to add the 1/8" padding too, same as the dash.

    Bodywork - Door panel.jpg Bodywork - Door panel CLIPS.jpg Bodywork - Door panel - SCREWS.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 09-26-2017 at 08:16 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  4. #164
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Question: What type of trunk supports, struts, lift supports, whatever your brand calls them, did you use? How well did they work? Would you pick them again?

    Thanks,
    David.... aka Ducky2009
    I am using the FinishLine version with some slight modifications:

    The FinishLine Trunk Prop Rod is mocked up ... finally.

    Borrowing on the work of others on the forum ... with a few modifications of my own. The biggest modification was to move the rod farther away from the trunk lip and mount the bottom bracket so that it would not interfere with the Breeze "D" trunk seal.

    Using some scrap 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8" angle aluminum bracket was fabricated to accept the rod's bracket on the inboard side, mount to the trunk lip and provide a location for the brace to the side of the trunk.

    A brace was fashioned from some spare 1/2" aluminum tubing. The ends were flattened out and drilled for #10 - 24 x 1/2" bolt on the top and 3/16" rivet on the bottom.

    The base of the upper support is a 1" x 2.5" x 1/4" aluminum block shaped to fit along side the "rib" on the trunk lid. Two #10-24 3/4" countersunk screws will be installed on the back (or top) of the block before it's secured to the lid with HSRF.

    All the other hardware used are SS #10-24 1/2" bolts, Nyloc nuts and SS washers.



    After getting all the mounting hardware together I needed to position the lower and upper mounts so the Prop Rod would fully open the lid and clear the Breeze seal installed on the trunk lip.

    The final position of the REAR of the mounts was 7" from the trunk edge on the body and 16 3/4" on the lid. After several tries I finally came to the realization that the darn thing could be in multiple possible positions as long as, with the trunk lid closed, no interference occurred with the body and the lid. The closer to the front; the higher the lid will open limited by the hinges. For this Prop Rod you do need to raise the trunk lid slightly to release the latch on the rod.



    The lower end of the Prop Rod is attached to bracket that is mounted on the edge or lip of the trunk and supported by a brace attached to the side of the inner trunk wall.



    The upper end is attached to a block "glued" to the trunk lid just inside the "rib".



    The HSRF will be done after the body is removed for painting and the final installation after the final body installation.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  5. #165
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Question: What type of trunk supports, struts, lift supports, whatever your brand calls them, did you use? How well did they work? Would you pick them again?

    Thanks, David.... aka Ducky2009
    I used the gas strut setup from Mike Everson on #7750. Many like it, but I wasn't happy with how it was always pushing on the hinges and made alignment of the trunk lid very difficult. I never was able to get the lid completely flat to the body. Others reported the same thing. For #8674, I used the Finishline prop rod that Carl showed. My attachments were slightly different (shown here in my build thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post260090) but after living with it through one driving season, I'd use the same setup again. Works fine. Then there's just a simple prop rod that you raise into place when lifting the lid. Breeze sells one. They're also easy to make.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Started on my door panels. Had leather left over from the dash. Need to borrow my daughters industrial sewing machine to stitch them up. Not sure what thread to use yet! Decided to use the old style clips to secure to the door. Added a pic - Not my car. Don't like the screws showing. Also want the pockets a little deeper than the pic. Clips allow you to remove if needed (but should never have to) without damaging the clips. Plan to add the 1/8" padding too, same as the dash.
    That picture #3 is my #7750 build. That's a standard Herb Fraser panel attached with automotive trim screws. Makes a very solid mount, but agree the screws don't look the best. For #8674, I made my own out of leather with 1/8-inch foam as well. Borrowed very heavily from Herb's design, but did make the pockets a little deeper. I also wanted the attachment to be invisible, and did look at clips like you show. I decided it would be difficult to use them without showing through the foam and leather (every little bump does show...) so went with multiple strips of 1-inch 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB3550 250/250 Black on the back. Nearly through the first driving season (unfortunately) and they're hanging in there very well. We use the pockets all the time.

    Last edited by edwardb; 09-27-2017 at 07:03 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  6. #166
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Thanks Carl & Paul. I'm going to go with the Finish Line prop, same as you. I was originally thinking gas strut, but played with my Impala strut and felt that it was too stiff, same as your's Paul. Fishing the back-up place in - I like the idea, just need to see if "I" can get it there.

    Door panels, third pic - Funny that it's yours, I found it on the web, no-ones name on it. Question - With three layers of leather at the pouch (back-up leather, pouch and face leather wrapped around), did the panel sit flat to the the door around the edges? I'm planning to use the metal clips and the 1/8" foam panning. I've discovered it if you add the foam over the clip and set a book on it overnight, the foam will permanently indent to the shape and not have a bulge. We'll see. Clips are due in by Friday.

    Update: Just tried to order the trunk prop. Out of stock and 2-3 months wait. Didn't even want my name to let me know when they're available.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 09-27-2017 at 01:19 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  7. #167
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Thanks Carl & Paul. I'm going to go with the Finish Line prop, same as you. I was originally thinking gas strut, but played with my Impala strut and felt that it was too stiff, same as your's Paul. Fishing the back-up place in - I like the idea, just need to see if "I" can get it there.

    Door panels, third pic - Funny that it's yours, I found it on the web, no-ones name on it. Question - With three layers of leather at the pouch (back-up leather, pouch and face leather wrapped around), did the panel sit flat to the the door around the edges? I'm planning to use the metal clips and the 1/8" foam panning. I've discovered it if you add the foam over the clip and set a book on it overnight, the foam will permanently indent to the shape and not have a bulge. We'll see. Clips are due in by Friday.

    Update: Just tried to order the trunk prop. Out of stock and 2-3 months wait. Didn't even want my name to let me know when they're available.
    I was also worried about the thickness of the layers of leather. The 3M Dual Lock fastener material I used is almost the same thickness, so the panel sits flat. There's a slight gap along the edges, but it's not a big deal. The most noticeable would be the top edge, but it's hidden by the shape of the door.

    I think that same prop rod is available elsewhere. It was used on a lot of British cars in that vintage. Here's at least one. Didn't check very closely to see if it's exactly the same, but might work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trunk-Prop-R...-/352072398174
    Last edited by edwardb; 10-02-2017 at 02:19 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  8. #168
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Purchased my trunk support, thanks Edwardb for your help. Made the rear view mirror bracket and installed, plus installed the small rubber hose to fill the slot at the top of the windshield. Found the bracket on-line but was out of stock - So I made my own. Still need to give it a polish finish. Will do it when I strip everything down to paint. Next problem..... Dropped the mirror and broke it! Time to re-order!

    Next step - Add the door panel spring clips to the door panels and drill the mounting holes in the doors.

    Mirror Bracket.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 10-02-2017 at 01:33 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  9. #169
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Guess I'm on hold for a while. Dr told me to not lift more that 10 lbs for the next 6 weeks. Had my gallbladder out on the 22nd.

    Decided to finish the door panels before drilling holes to mount, to make sure I'm happy with the end results. Still have a little bodywork around the gas filler, a little bit of a flat spot at the seam, and the radius around the top edge varies a little in size. I know these things will show up, especially with dark color paint. I'm still debating which dark blue color to use. Damascus blue, Caspian blue or Nightmist blue.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  10. #170
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    I'm still debating which dark blue color to use. Damascus blue, Caspian blue or Nightmist blue.
    My opinion: YES!!
    Jazzman
    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered 7/30/15. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash. Delivered 11/25/15, First Start 12/24/16, First Go Cart, 1/6/17, Licensed and Legal 11/20/17. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  11. #171
    Carl-

    Sorry about the gall bladder! I hate it when the original parts start breaking down; the warranty really stinks, and replacement parts are very expensive, if you can find them! I hope you have a speedy recovery, and get back to building ASAP!

    Nice job on the rear view mirror mount. I plan on doing the same. Hopefully I will have a similar result!

    I look forward to watching the rest of your finishing details.

    Regards,

    Steve

  12. #172
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve. I feel better and THINK I can do a few things, but my wife is watching! LOL

    While trying to finish up a few little things, I attempted to fine tune the headlight adjustment. Took the beauty ring off and part of the retaining clips (one on each side) fell out. Anyone else have this issue?

    Headlight Clips.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 10-04-2017 at 07:17 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  13. #173
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    FFR came thru again! I emailed to ask if I could buy the headlight clips. Received an out-of-office reply from Tony. That was late last week. Received the clips today. Thanks FFR
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  14. #174
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Door Panels

    While waiting to recover from my "two" surgeries, I decided to order the little things I still needed (trunk light/switch, tapered header shim, etc.), then make the door panels. Guess I won't be painting till spring!

    Door Panel - PS.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 11-28-2017 at 11:57 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  15. #175
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    While waiting to recover from my "two" surgeries, I decided to order the little things I still needed (trunk light/switch, tapered header shim, etc.), then make the door panels. Guess I won't be painting till spring!

    Door Panel - PS.jpg
    Dave, nice job on the door panels I like the big pocket. I might take a crack at making some out of leather also. Have a pair of Herbs but would like to match the leather I'm going to put on the dash and center counsel.
    MKIV #9122 Ordered kit 5/24/17 received kit 8/11/17 MK4 Base kit +,First Start 4/7/18, First Go-Cart 4/22/18, Coyote gen2, T-56, 2015 IRS 3.31, 17" Halibrand replicas w/Nitto NT555 G2, Withby Motorcars power brake kit W/Wilwood pedals, 04 Cobra front brakes, 15 Mustang rear brakes with mods, power steering. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Paul2STL-Build

  16. #176
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Tear down has started. Healed from (two) surgeries and weather is breaking. Planning to paint it myself, at the home garage. One more short vacation Thursday - Monday. Headed to Vegas... not to gamble. Plan to make a side trip to the Shelby factory and museum while there. Next week final body prep will start. Need to radius the corners on the vents and header cutouts and block sand.

    Bodywork - Striping Down Starts.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-06-2018 at 12:32 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  17. #177
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Tear down has started. Healed from (two) surgeries and weather is breaking. Planning to paint it myself, at the home garage. One more short vacation Thursday - Monday. Headed to Vegas... not to gamble. Plan to make a side trip to the Shelby factory and museum while there. Next week final body prep will start. Need to radius the corners on the vents and header cutouts and block sand.

    Bodywork - Striping Down Starts.jpg
    Glad to hear you are back in working condition!
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  18. #178
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    TKO600 - Oil Leak

    I have a small leak from the middle gasket on the TKO600 trans. Finding small spots of fluid in the garage. Only leaks while running. Anyone have an issue like this?

    UPDATE: Trans was leaking all the time, not just while running.

    See post #189 & 193 for repair.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-27-2018 at 09:52 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  19. #179
    Dave, Just finished your build thread. Very nice work indeed. Hope you are having a speedy recovery and have a safe trip to Vegas. The Shelby museum is a cool place and maybe if they know you are a builder, you can get to walk around the shop in back. The # 1 Shelby was classic nostalgia. Loved it, and it reinforced my love for the car and respect for the man.

  20. #180
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Power Brake Set-up

    Adding power brakes.... cutting the 3/4"frame rail is still required. The FFR modified the MK4 frame in July 2017 (no longer need to modify frame or Wilwood clutch pedal to make it work), but not enough to add power brake booster without cutting the frame.

    See All Posts: #156, 184, 194 for complete set-up
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 03-08-2018 at 08:32 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  21. #181
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    RT Turn Signal Set-up

    Does anyone else have this issue?

    The turn signal setup clicks off/cancels with little/no motion with a right turn. Turning left cancels ok. I checks the hub machining and its centered to the bolt pattern as it should be. I do have the turn signal shaft and steering wheel aligned evenly/level. The problem lies with the VW turn signals. See attached pics. As you can see, the canceling tabs inside are not centered to the hub. The magic marker mark/line is approx centered to the center of the tabs as best as I can hold by hand (the little dot is aligned to the screw to maintain alignment/clocking). The side view of the hub shows how much out of alignment it is. The marked area on the tab shows how much needing removed to even out.

    I tried to email Russ but his inbox is full at this time. I'll try again later.

    EDIT 2/15/18:
    After modification, the turn signals cancel with 90 degree turn of the steering wheel, both directions.

    Turn Signal Hub - Aligbment.jpg Turn Signal Hub - Right Trun.jpg Turn Signal Hub - Left Trun.jpg Turn Signal Hub - Right Trun -1.jpg Turn Signal Hub - Left Trun - 1.jpg Turn Signal Hub.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-15-2018 at 07:44 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  22. #182
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SerpantFL View Post
    Dave, Just finished your build thread. Very nice work indeed. Hope you are having a speedy recovery and have a safe trip to Vegas. The Shelby museum is a cool place and maybe if they know you are a builder, you can get to walk around the shop in back. The # 1 Shelby was classic nostalgia. Loved it, and it reinforced my love for the car and respect for the man.
    The museum and factory tour was great. The Shelby Cobra (aluminum body) was $162,000, without engine and trans. Fiberglass body was ONLY $92,000, with E & T. Glad I purchased a FFR Roadster. They are also making a 1,000 HP Shelby Mustang. After you purchase the Mustang, add another 50k for the mod. I asked the VP of engineering a few questions and he gave us (myself and son-in-law) a personal tour of the shop. Great place to stop in you/re in Vegas
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  23. #183
    Dave, Welcome back. Pleased that you got a tour of the shop. Kinda figured that they respect builders like Caroll and would hook you up. P.S. thanks for the request... Anthony

  24. #184
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Power Brake Set-up

    Power brakes now installed. Go-carted and works great. Needed a proportioning valve on the front, to prevent front wheel lock-ups. Didn't need an exotic shaped frame bracket that comes with some of the kits. The MK4 frame was modified in Mid 2017, moving the 3/4" outward from previous design. Only needed to move the rail out 3/4" to clear the booster. Also used the booster spacer (1/2" thk) from "Replicaparts" and 5/16" to 1/2" fluid line union barb fittings/adapters. See posts #156 & 180 for parts list and pics.

    Edited 3/6/18: Added the last pic with hoses clamped, 5/16 to 1/2 line adapters and reservoir location. Originally had the remote reservoirs too far forward. Would have interfered with the hood struts.

    See All Posts: #156, 180, 194 for complete set-up.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 03-08-2018 at 08:54 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  25. #185
    David, Nice mod on the frame for the booster. I see those plastic fittings on the booster look barbed. I don't see any clamps used. What kind of pressures, if you know, are generated by the brakes?

  26. #186
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SerpantFL View Post
    David, Nice mod on the frame for the booster. I see those plastic fittings on the booster look barbed. I don't see any clamps used. What kind of pressures, if you know, are generated by the brakes?
    Master cylinder fittings are barbed, I have not added clamps "Yet", but I will. Another trip to AutoZone. Gravity fed from Reservoir to MC, no pressure.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  27. #187
    Nice, just saw and was curious... Have to admit though, I was acquiring build tidbits... If I understand post # 185, you had to move the rail out an additional 3/4 inch? I see where you bolted the forward rail, I suspect the rear section is inside the panel? Now I see the inside mount... Nice...

  28. #188
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    DS Footbox Modification

    I decided to modify the DS footbox. At 6'2" and with Kirkey seats, I found my right legs resting against the 45 degree bend in the stock sheetmetal..... not very comfortable. Did I mention by knees bother me and I want to straighten my legs as much as possible. Now the DS footbox looks more like the PS footbox. Also added Al's HNR (heat and noise reducer).
    Attached Images Attached Images
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  29. #189
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    TKO 600 Trans leak

    Earlier I posted about my TKO 600 trans leaking at the tail shaft joint. I contacted Tremec (email) and explained that I purchased the trans one year ago, licensed the car in Sept and only has 500 miles on the car. Found out the warranty is ONLY 90 DAYS! I asked what type of gasket sealer is used and the only response I received was:

    Good morning David
    The TKO-series uses anaerobic sealer (similar to Permatex 518) at that joint
    Thank you

    I did find a repair manual on-line and can repair this myself (not something I'd recommend if you don't have trans experience). Also looks like I can do this while still in the car, still attached to the bell housing. More to follow.

    See post #193 for repair
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-27-2018 at 09:49 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  30. #190
    Hi David, Kind of a terse response. There isn't a seal that can be replaced? What a pain to have to do that at this stage. How you feeling BTW?

  31. #191
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SerpantFL View Post
    Hi David, Kind of a terse response. There isn't a seal that can be replaced? What a pain to have to do that at this stage. How you feeling BTW?
    Correct, there is no gasket. The joint is seals with gasket sealer, Permatex or equivalent. Sealant "says" it can fill a .015 gap.

    See post #193 for repair.

    I'm feeling great now. I have been physically able to get back to normal, but turned out that some of the dessolvable stitched would not dissolve. My body treated them like a foreign object (kind of like when your body pushes a splinter out), pushed them out, so it took till last week to finally heal completely.
    Thanks for asking!
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-27-2018 at 09:56 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  32. #192
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    I decided to modify the DS footbox. At 6'2" and with Kirkey seats, I found my right legs resting against the 45 degree bend in the stock sheetmetal..... not very comfortable. Did I mention by knees bother me and I want to straighten my legs as much as possible. Now the DS footbox looks more like the PS footbox. Also added Al's HNR (heat and noise reducer).
    Nice work. That mod makes such a big difference for long legs.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  33. #193
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    TKO 600 Trans leak - Repair

    MY TKO 600 Trans leak is now repaired.
    NOTE: Transmission leaking at rear extension case to front case joint.
    Step 1 - Support engine/trans at the bell housing. Remove trans mount. Remove drive shaft.
    Step 2 - Shift trans to neutral.
    Step 3 - Remove four bolts and middle inspection cover. Remove six bolts and shifter tower housing.
    Step 4 - Using a 3/16 pin punch, mark punch with tape as shown. Outer lugs - .825. Center lug - 1.150. This will drive the pins through the shifter shaft but not out of the lugs. NOTE: DO NOT DRIVE THE PINS ALL THE WAY OUT OF THE SHIFTER LUGS. Doing so will require removal of rear extension case to retrieve the pins - NOT POSSIBLE WHILE TRANS IS STILL IN THE CAR.
    Step 5 - Remove outer shifter lugs first, then the center lug. NOTE: You'll need to move the shafts forward to get the lugs off the shafts. Do NOT remove the grease on the lugs.
    Step 6 - Remove the six bolts holding the rear extension case. Separate rear case from front case.
    Step 7 - Inspect the O-Rings on the Shifter shafts. Replace as needed.
    Step 8 - Clean gasket surfaces and apply new gasket seal, Anaerobic Gasket Maker. Instructions call for only an 1/8" bead. NOTE: Do NOT let the sealer "Skin Over". Apply sealant and reassemble in less than five minutes.
    Step 9 - Re-install rear case, install six bolts and torque to 42-50 Ft-lbs.
    Step 10 - Re-install the shifter lugs, center lug first. Move each shift shaft/lug back to the neutral position after installation. NOTE: Start the roll pins on the top side of the lugs while on the workbench, slide in place and drive pins in.
    Step 11 - Apply RTV and Re-install middle cover and Shifter Tower, torque to 18-22 ft-lbs.
    Step 12 - Wait 24 hours then fill with appropriate fluid.

    Edited 3/1/18
    From 2bking: "When the tail housing is separated, there is a possibility the counter shaft bearing race will slide from its slip fit blind bore. The preload shims are behind the race and will fall out also."
    Thanks for pointing this out.
    See last pic. Shims and race are in place.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 05-16-2018 at 04:50 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  34. #194
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Power Brake Set-up

    Finally had time to make my power brake pedal. I originally drilled and tapped a hole in the aluminum Wilwood pedal to set-up the power brakes and adjust the proportioning valve. Not intended to be a long-term solution. The cast aluminum web is only approx 3/16" thick, not enough to have much strength.

    See All Posts: #156, 180, 184 for complete set-up
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 03-08-2018 at 08:34 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  35. #195
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    I decided to modify the DS footbox. At 6'2" and with Kirkey seats, I found my right legs resting against the 45 degree bend in the stock sheetmetal..... not very comfortable. Did I mention by knees bother me and I want to straighten my legs as much as possible. Now the DS footbox looks more like the PS footbox. Also added Al's HNR (heat and noise reducer).
    I guess I'm surprised that you didn't have sufficient room, especially given that you have the latest version of the footbox sheetmetal. But, it's not my car... I'm a couple of inches shorter than you and I have enough room. Then again, I've been fortunate that my knees are still holding up It looks like you extended the inside wall mostly at the transmission end of the footbox?
    Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - a work in (slow) progress
    Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes

  36. #196
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al_C View Post
    I guess I'm surprised that you didn't have sufficient room, especially given that you have the latest version of the footbox sheetmetal. But, it's not my car... I'm a couple of inches shorter than you and I have enough room. Then again, I've been fortunate that my knees are still holding up It looks like you extended the inside wall mostly at the transmission end of the footbox?
    Al,

    With the Kirkey seat set-up I can't straighten my right leg out while driving. (The back of the seat, at floor level, is several inches from the cockpit wall. The seat tilts back a little, so you have to shift it forward so the top doesn't hit the body lip in the back). I still can't straighten my leg all the way but I not longer have the bumps. I started at the trans tunnel end... it tapers it in a straight line all the way to the gas pedal. Took the 45 degree bend out. It is a little wider at the gas pedal too.

    ALSO: The new footbox adds width, not length..... I think
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 03-10-2018 at 01:07 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  37. #197
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Paint

    And the painting begins. Everything's in primer but found a few pin holes that I missed and a small spot on the body that needs some work before paint. Not sure how I missed it. Hoping the weather holds out... no rain in the next few days.

    Edited 3/18/18: With a few nice days, I was able to paint. Still need to add the clear coat. Starting to rain again, so too much humidity in the air. The disadvantages of painting at home.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 03-19-2018 at 02:55 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  38. #198
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Final Paint Color

    So I wet sanded my paint and ready to apply the last coat and clear coat. Waiting for the weather to cooperate. Friday is looking good! Sprayed a little water over the fender to show the wife the final color. I originally wanted a much darker blue.

    QUESTION: Has anyone ever painted the aluminum louvers? What type of etch did you use? I've never painted aluminum.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 03-31-2018 at 08:50 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  39. #199
    Beautiful!
    What color is that?
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  40. #200
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    I decided to modify the DS footbox. At 6'2" and with Kirkey seats, I found my right legs resting against the 45 degree bend in the stock sheetmetal..... not very comfortable. Did I mention by knees bother me and I want to straighten my legs as much as possible. Now the DS footbox looks more like the PS footbox. Also added Al's HNR (heat and noise reducer).
    I so wish I had done this!! Good job. I'll bet that is a real improvement.
    Jazzman
    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered 7/30/15. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash. Delivered 11/25/15, First Start 12/24/16, First Go Cart, 1/6/17, Licensed and Legal 11/20/17. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

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