Roadracer's #997 build

[RoadRacer]

Fitted the replacement oil pressure gauge from FFR this morning in between meetings, then grabbed a quick backroad 30 miles to 'test it'. Works perfectly, 40-50psi.

2021-03-17 12.34.58.jpg

[RoadRacer]

Here's the steering joint. Stare at it for a bit and you'll see it isn't perfectly stable/tight on the steering rack side.

[RoadRacer]

Cannot wait until tomorrow - after waiting 3 weeks for an appt I finally get to get the VTR-68A filled in by the Sheriffs Auto Theft task Force.

I was going to get the car on the lift and check everything today but didn't feel up to it, got shingles 2 weeks ago which sucks! Cars being going well, although it did flood at a traffic light yesterday which was very odd. Maybe something stuck a needle. When I looked in the carb, gas was flooding out of the primary side, but after cranking it started again and ran fine. Brand new carb so we'll see if that happens again.

Re: the steering joint above, FFR saw the video and said to mark where the set screws are (3 in this joint) and drill some dimples so the screws can grip better. I think I may have done that with 1 of them, but it's been a long while, so I'll check when on the lift.

[dstelter]

James,

How did the Sheriffs inspection go? guessing you had to go into Austin for Travis County Sheriff?

Doug

[RoadRacer]

James,

How did the Sheriffs inspection go? guessing you had to go into Austin for Travis County Sheriff?

Doug

Hey Doug, yeah, was a real non-event! All of the central TX options have been shutdown for a year, except one - the Georgetown (Williamson County) location is the only one left. Hence the 3 week's I had to wait for an appt. Disappointing to wait so long for a piece of paper, but hopefully everyone can learn from that - book early in the process!!

So what happened yesterday was that I drove in, two Sheriffs said Hi, nice car, what is it? One of them was interested because their Dad wants a Factory Five, so that got them chatting. I handed them the VTR-68A and the $40 money order, and two photos - the engine number and the chassis number. They glanced inside at where I said it was, but that was it. Signed, stamped and out of there in under 10 minutes. It's not an inspection in any sense of the word.

BTW - and this is critical - my motor is a goodwrench crate motor that I bought secondhand, so the engine number stamped on the block is a generic ID, not a specific engine number. There is no engine number stamped on a crate motor, just "maybe" on an aluminum tag that everyone loses. So my motor is indistinguishable from any other GM crate motor. I was worried that this would be a problem, since the intent is to determine if any part was a stolen part. But, nothing happened!

2021-03-29 13.45.03.jpg 2021-03-29 13.45.08.jpg

So, I went straight round to the DMV and submitted all the forms (~25 pages of them) and are now waiting for them to give me the last letter confirming I have all the pieces. Then the last step is to take everything to the county tax office. Man,there are a lot of steps, but they are all easy at least. The problem is that nowadays there is so much time between them, and so many people involved. Luckily Texas allows 3 x 30day temporary permits, and I bet I'll use all that 90 days to get a tag...

[33fromSD]

Awesome... one step closer!!

Yeah, I found 9 time out of 10 if you can get the person or people engaged in a pleasant conversion things typically go smoothly, it's the numbskulls who grow an attitude with these folks who tend to have the problems.

Jim

[RoadRacer]

Got a day in the garage to throw it up on the quickjack and check everything underneath. Didn't find anything loose or bent or damaged, which was nice. Well, until I got to the motor and found one spark plug was dead somehow - looked fine but the exhaust temps were all 450-550deg except #7 which was 220deg. Swapped out the plug - couldn't see anything wrong with it, but afterwards the pipes were all same temp. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Also found #8 plug was loose, but not terribly so.

Worst part was the front upper boots. They had both come off the upper balljoints, so I'll have to look into that before it trashes the balljoints.

balljoint.jpg

[RoadRacer]

My engine has been sounding like a bag of bolts recently, horrible rattles like every rocker needs adjusting. Loud as hell. Anyway I hoped it was the fuel pump.. I had installed a high volume Holley recently. So today I got tired of it and decided to remove the mechanical pump and rely on my electric pump that I had as backup.

I removed the mechanical, removed the pushrod and blanked it off. I took the car out tonight and.. it was the pump! The engine is now purring along. No rattles.

No idea why the Holley was so loud, the pushrod looked normal, no wear. Oh well!

Next I will try to align the car with the new 4 wheel kit I just bought. Trying to improve the tramlining.

[RoadRacer]

I bought a 4-wheel alignment kit from here recently, so assembled that and started checking the alignment that a local shop put on.

They said they had 3.0/3.1deg caster set, but I only see 2.4/2.6deg which seems a little low, especially considering my quite severe tramlining. So I'll increase the caster to 3.5-4deg and sacrifice some steering effort in the hope of getting better straight-line stability. The extra negative camber around corners won't hurt.

But there's no obvious (to me at least) way to adjust caster. I'm used to adding shims/washers on the upper a-arm to move it back to increase caster. But I have no upper A arm and no space for shims on the upper links that I do have.

I'll ask on a new thread too, but anyone have recommendations on the best way to adjusting caster/camber on the 33 setup?

[RoadRacer]

ok, I re-read Dr Ruths alignment sticky again carefully (I find it hard to understand), and got this:

Adjust front lower control arm for caster
Adjust the rear lower control arm for camber
Finally adjust toe using tierods

Wallace18 seems to corroborate this in this other thread

[RoadRacer]

Had some fun yesterday with my new alignment setup. Overall, it works well and is easy to use.

I did find (as suspected) that the shop alignment had given me way too little caster, which would explain the skittishness. I measured 2deg on both sides, but camber and toe were on spec. I wound in/out the front lower link to set new caster, and initially set 4deg, then later increased to 5deg. Still a work-in-progress as I try what I like.

To make it faster, I made notes of the length of thread exposed at both ends of the rod and plotted that against measured caster in a spreadsheet. This allows me to quickly set caster to whatever degree I want by measuring threads. It's a pretty straight line - of course it's not exact, but saves me some time as I experiment with what feels good on the crazy country roads.

The graphs below show drivers and passenger exposed thread length vs deg caster. FWIW, the sides were different so I expect the rods aren't exact same length. The rod lengths only need to be adjusted a few millimeters!

home-alignment.jpg caster-angles.png

[33fromSD]

Had some fun yesterday with my new alignment setup. Overall, it works well and is easy to use.

I did find (as suspected) that the shop alignment had given me way too little caster, which would explain the skittishness. I measured 2deg on both sides, but camber and toe were on spec. I wound in/out the front lower link to set new caster, and initially set 4deg, then later increased to 5deg. Still a work-in-progress as I try what I like.

To make it faster, I made notes of the length of thread exposed at both ends of the rod and plotted that against measured caster in a spreadsheet. This allows me to quickly set caster to whatever degree I want by measuring threads. It's a pretty straight line - of course it's not exact, but saves me some time as I experiment with what feels good on the crazy country roads.

The graphs below show drivers and passenger exposed thread length vs deg caster. FWIW, the sides were different so I expect the rods aren't exact same length. The rod lengths only need to be adjusted a few millimeters!

home-alignment.jpg caster-angles.png

Very nice...what alignment system did you go with James?

Jim

[RoadRacer]

Very nice...what alignment system did you go with James?

Jim

Jim, I got the Tenhulzen 4 wheel alignment setup ("one gauge+string frame" option). Bought it off another member, still boxed!

[33fromSD]

Jim, I got the Tenhulzen 4 wheel alignment setup ("one gauge+string frame" option). Bought it off another member, still boxed!

Thanks James

[33fromSD]

Jim, I got the Tenhulzen 4 wheel alignment setup ("one gauge+string frame" option). Bought it off another member, still boxed!

You need to stop posting cool stuff like this...I ended up ordering it.

I also already have the Fast Trax alignment tool but it only does caster & camber and is a little clunky to use.

[RoadRacer]

You need to stop posting cool stuff like this...I ended up ordering it.

I also already have the Fast Trax alignment tool but it only does caster & camber and is a little clunky to use.

LOL this is my first tool so I cannot compare..

[RoadRacer]

I went for a drive with 5deg caster and much improved but I can’t help thinking there’s more to get. I’ve upped it to the 7deg that I see for power steering cars. Bizarrely I’m not getting any heaviness of steering - or at least it’s still acceptable. I’m on 285 fronts so obviously it’s heavy at slow speeds but I don’t mind that.

Fun playing with the setup!

[cob427sc]

Did you solve the loose joint at the steering rack spline? I have the same problem and have spot drilled to no success as it keeps loosening after only a few miles of driving. I don't think it will fall of but makes a lot of play in the steering which is unsettling. I'm actually thinking of welding the joint to the shaft - what's the chance that this will ever be taken apart? It seems that the spline cut of the joint is slightly oversized and there is no way to make it fit tighter on the shaft.

[RoadRacer]

Did you solve the loose joint at the steering rack spline? I have the same problem and have spot drilled to no success as it keeps loosening after only a few miles of driving. I don't think it will fall of but makes a lot of play in the steering which is unsettling. I'm actually thinking of welding the joint to the shaft - what's the chance that this will ever be taken apart? It seems that the spline cut of the joint is slightly oversized and there is no way to make it fit tighter on the shaft.

Sorry, yes, I must not have posted that. I tried drilling the rack shaft but it's hard as you-know-what and I couldn't drill it on the car. So I followed Jim's idea and pulled off the UJ where it attached to the steering rack, covered the splines generously with 6-minute JB weld, then re-fitted and snugged up again with the grub screws. I have never used this stuff before and was skeptical, but it worked like a charm. It set like it was one piece. Miles later there is still ZERO play in my bottom joint.

Yes, it's a pretty severe fix, but it was literally 15 mins work and I only applied to one side so I figure if I ever need it off I can still remove from the other side of the joint. I just wanted that slop gone.. and so far it looks perfect.

[33fromSD]

Sorry, yes, I must not have posted that. I tried drilling the rack shaft but it's hard as you-know-what and I couldn't drill it on the car. So I followed Jim's idea and pulled off the UJ where it attached to the steering rack, covered the splines generously with 6-minute JB weld, then re-fitted and snugged up again with the grub screws. I have never used this stuff before and was skeptical, but it worked like a charm. It set like it was one piece. 1000 miles later there is still ZERO play in my bottom joint.

Yes, it's a pretty severe fix, but it was literally 15 mins work and I only applied to one side so I figure if I ever need it off I can still remove from the other side of the joint. I just wanted that slop gone.. and so far it looks perfect.

Glad to hear it worked out for you...JB-Weld is good stuff.

Jim

[33fromSD]

LOL this is my first tool so I cannot compare..

The Tenhulzen alignment set up (one gauge+string frame) showed up today...guess once I get all the paint stuff and the interior done I'll be at ~ride weight (minus passengers) so then I'll be ready to give this gizmo a try.

Jim

[RoadRacer]

Jim's always posting super impressive paint updates, so today is mine (LOL).

I woke up and thought why don't I rattle-can my hardtop? I bought it second hand and the previous owner had bondo'd and sanded the top, but not painted, so the filler has been exposed and the gelcoat was all matt from sanding. So I thought I'd tidy it up a bit - but certainly not to any standard at all. Just minor prep and rattle can.

And by minor, I mean this

2021-04-24 14.04.53.jpg 2021-04-24 13.47.58.jpg

some masking, some sanding, some washing, bought a tack rag from local autozone, then started spraying with white universal primer. Rattle can is hard to get looking nice but after some sanding and 5 cans I got it good enough. I was going to then do gloss black but I realized gloss black is going to be much harder than a matt white.. and I was quite digging the white top on a black body - perhaps the local cops will like it?

So I left it as-is, and we'll see what happens next.

2021-04-24 17.35.59.jpg 2021-04-24 19.26.41-1-1.jpg 2021-04-24 17.35.41.jpg

[33fromSD]

Mileage: 1202

Jim's always posting super impressive paint updates, so today is mine (LOL).

I woke up and thought why don't I rattle-can my hardtop? I bought it second hand and the previous owner had bondo'd and sanded the top, but not painted, so the filler has been exposed and the gelcoat was all matt from sanding. So I thought I'd tidy it up a bit - but certainly not to any standard at all. Just minor prep and rattle can.

And by minor, I mean this

2021-04-24 14.04.53.jpg 2021-04-24 13.47.58.jpg

some masking, some sanding, some washing, bought a tack rag from local autozone, then started spraying with white universal primer. Rattle can is hard to get looking nice but after some sanding and 5 cans I got it good enough. I was going to then do gloss black but I realized gloss black is going to be much harder than a matt white.. and I was quite digging the white top on a black body - perhaps the local cops will like it?

So I left it as-is, and we'll see what happens next.

2021-04-24 17.35.59.jpg 2021-04-24 19.26.41-1-1.jpg 2021-04-24 17.35.41.jpg

Looks great James....nice job... it's amazing how much color changes these cars

Jim

[FF33rod]

Totally different look. Maybe put a small red pail upside down on the roof now too and you can be a 1933 cop car !

Steve

[RoadRacer]

PSA - Don't forget to check your balance bar everyone . My brakes were adequate, but I finally got to the point where I could check the balance bar again - I thought I'd set it up correctly according to the manual a long time ago, but I obviously hadn't. The bar was equal "at rest", where it should be angled towards the front master cylinder. So I adjusted it, and brakes certainly feel better.

[cob427sc]

I just did the same readjustment of the balance bar and it improved the brake feel tremendously. It was previously setup neutral and took a lot of pressure to firmly stop the car. Now with the bar favoring the front but quite a lot, the brake pedal takes less pressure and is easier to stop. I've practiced high speed stops and don't feel any issues with stopping power or straight line stops.

[peterh226]

I just did the same readjustment of the balance bar and it improved the brake feel tremendously. It was previously setup neutral and took a lot of pressure to firmly stop the car. Now with the bar favoring the front but quite a lot, the brake pedal takes less pressure and is easier to stop. I've practiced high speed stops and don't feel any issues with stopping power or straight line stops.

Can you take a picture of where your adjuster ended up?

[RoadRacer]

I’m away right now Peter and can’t take pic but I’ll tell you I wound the front MC thread until it was flush with the front side of the balance bar.. basically as far as the front could be done safely. I didn’t adjust the rear side though so I still have some adjustment on the side if I need. Hth

[JOP33]

I had actually gone a bit too far forward with my BB adjustment & was experiencing to much Front Brake...they were locking up & sliding at stops (on slight gravel & at indoor shows on polished floors). I just recently backed off some of the front & also installed a Wilwood Brake Bias Remote Adjustment Knob under the dash. This allows me to dial it in a bit more conveniently.

[RoadRacer]

Not a great day today - finally got notice from the DMV that my goodwrench crate motor bill-of-sale (from the original owner) isn't good enough. They need a VIN from the car it was pulled from. Er.. there was no car. It's a crate motor, I say.

Their answer was, ok, well then we need the car appraised and a bond in lieu of details for where the motor came from. The forms they give me CTR-130 and VTR-125 are bizarre, so I guess I'll be googling them. It appears I need to have the car professionally appraised (lord know why) and then I'm applying for a bonded title?!

Good grief... I'm patient, but I'm nearly 90 days into this process now, with delays and bureaucracy every step of the way.

[33fromSD]

That sucks

Jim

[33fromSD]

Hi James

Thinking about this some, I got my crate engine through BP Engines and they supplied a packet when my engine arrived that links the serial number on the new block to my purchase order, spec sheets, dyno charts, etc..

I don't know how Goodwrench Crate Motors do their provenance for their engines, or the life history / age of your engine (I know you note above you bought it off the original owner), but the serial number on your engine should be in GM's crate motor system and traceable back to them to show it was a new engine verses pulled from a donor.

Not sure if the previous owner could help with info on where they bought it from originally so you could contact the company for info or if the previous owner possibly still have the paper work from their purchase showing the serial number.

Sorry you're going through this.

Jim

[sread]

Well that does suck! I'm kind of in the same situation as all I have is a bill of sale from the guy I bought the kit from including a receipt where he bought it off Ebay. I wonder how much of it is just the luck of the draw depending on whose desk it crosses at DMV? That's totally asinine they would require that when you have a documented purchase of a new crate motor but for some reason doesn't surprise me at all.

[RoadRacer]

Hi James

Thinking about this some, I got my crate engine through BP Engines and they supplied a packet when my engine arrived that links the serial number on the new block to my purchase order, spec sheets, dyno charts, etc..

I don't know how Goodwrench Crate Motors do their provenance for their engines, or the life history / age of your engine (I know you note above you bought it off the original owner), but the serial number on your engine should be in GM's crate motor system and traceable back to them to show it was a new engine verses pulled from a donor.

Not sure if the previous owner could help with info on where they bought it from originally so you could contact the company for info or if the previous owner possibly still have the paper work from their purchase showing the serial number.

Sorry you're going through this.

Jim

Thanks Jim, part of the problem is that these motors don't have a serial number. The number on the block is more of a part number - they are all the same. So completely unidentifiable. I can't track the original seller anymore (all done through craigslist and the records are gone). So I'm working with an appraiser now

[FF33rod]

Man James, that is frustrating! hope you get it sorted quickly

Steve

[33fromSD]

Thanks Jim, part of the problem is that these motors don't have a serial number. The number on the block is more of a part number - they are all the same. So completely unidentifiable. I can't track the original seller anymore (all done through craigslist and the records are gone). So I'm working with an appraiser now

That really stinks James, sorry you're going through this.

This is where BP Engine is doing it right......all their engines (reman block or fresh blocks) have a unique S/Ns stamped on the block (not one of these cheap aluminum tags bolted on that can be removed either) so at any point BP Engines can identify the engine / build, look up components used based on S/N, dyno info, age, etc. I ordered two 302's at the same time, one for my 33HR and the other for my 55 F100. This was one of the first things I asked at BP Engines. I wanted traceability.

Each came with a unique S/N that is not only stamped on the block, but my invoices for both engines references the different S/Ns, the dyno file name has the serial # in it, the build folder included has the serial #, etc.

302 Build Folders (S/Ns on folders match block)
fullsizeoutput_53.jpeg

33HR Engine S/N Stamp
fullsizeoutput_55.jpeg

55 F100 Engine S/N Stamp
fullsizeoutput_54.jpeg

Jim

[J R Jones]

James,
For what it is worth, I have a 1968 300hp 327 SBC that is from an Excalibur. (Fresh rebuild, and for sale) The block is number stamped but because the engine was not installed in a Chevy, it did not come off the assembly line. It is stamped with a number sequence for Service and Warranty engines. I do not know how one would document that source, and hope I do not have to.

[RoadRacer]

Ha, well getting an "appraisal" wasn't hard. lol. Get this.. I found https://autoappraisers.com/ and emailed them. They asked me a few questions and wanted a few photos.. and bam a filled-in VTR 125 came flying back to me for $100. No inspection, no driving.. they didn't directly asked me what I wanted the answer to be, but let's say I got what I wanted Obviously, I'm assuming a lower price is better than a higher one.

So back to the DMV this afternoon to see what else they can throw at me.

[33fromSD]

Ha, well getting an "appraisal" wasn't hard. lol. Get this.. I found https://autoappraisers.com/ and emailed them. They asked me a few questions and wanted a few photos.. and bam a filled-in VTR 125 came flying back to me for $100. No inspection, no driving.. they didn't directly asked me what I wanted the answer to be, but let's say I got what I wanted Obviously, I'm assuming a lower price is better than a higher one.

So back to the DMV this afternoon to see what else they can throw at me.

Awesome...great job....I started my registration process today. SoDak actually changed how they do kit cars 6 months ago, so now I needed to fill in an application for Title & Registration as well as filled in a parts affidavit for a rebuild (they now consider Manufactured Kits as rebuilds) and had to send in my MSO paper work and all receipts into the state. In 2-4 weeks they will contact me for a location to take the car for an inspection which will be interesting since they didn't give me a temp plate so I guess I'll trailer it there.

Once the inspection is done the state sends the paperwork through for a title and I can get my title & license. Thinking they make that sound too smooth. Interestingly enough though, once of the questions on the affidavit was engine serial number and proof of invoice (with S/N) listed if it wasn't pulled from another vehicle. Glad I had what I had from BP.

Jim

[RoadRacer]

Awesome...great job....I started my registration process today. SoDak actually changed how they do kit cars 6 months ago, so now I needed to fill in an application for Title & Registration as well as filled in a parts affidavit for a rebuild (they now consider Manufactured Kits as rebuilds) and had to send in my MSO paper work and all receipts into the state. In 2-4 weeks they will contact me for a location to take the car for an inspection which will be interesting since they didn't give me a temp plate so I guess I'll trailer it there.

Once the inspection is done the state sends the paperwork through for a title and I can get my title & license. Thinking they make that sound too smooth. Interestingly enough though, once of the questions on the affidavit was engine serial number and proof of invoice (with S/N) listed if it wasn't pulled from another vehicle. Glad I had what I had from BP.

Jim

Can you not get 30 day temp plates from local office? Ours are $30 cash, 10 min job. Anyway, good luck!!