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---Boyd---
MkIV #9042 build thread
www.boss427.us
427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019
Thanks for the response Rick. With your post, I'm thinking these front springs, although pretty stiff, are quite responsive to the different weights we place in the front of these cars. Some need to raise collars to lower the frame, others need to lower collars to raise the frame and yet others have to replace the springs completely. Simple as 100 lbs can make quite a difference.
Nice work on your car, getting yourself satisfied.
---Boyd---
MkIV #9042 build thread
www.boss427.us
427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019
Boat and anyone else reading here, a word of caution. Your spring collars should be the same height left and right. Unless you have the equipment to do corner weights, the best process is to make the car geometrically the same on both sides and trust that FFR welded the frame together correctly (which I do). think of it this way. Take a 4 leg table sitting on a flat surface. Each leg is pushing on the floor w/ the same weight. Now think of replacing those legs w/ adjustable springs that are all set to the same length. Again, each leg/spring is pushing on the floor w/ the same weight. Now take the LF spring and make it 1/8 inch shorter and adjust the RF spring and make it 1/8 inch longer. The table will still be sitting exactly the same, not leaning either way. But the RF spring will be pushing on the floor w/ more weight than the LF. So the LF will be more likely to lock up under hard braking.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
Good point, thanks Craig. When I started the process, they were equal (side to side), but after going up and down a few times, I must have missed a turn on one side, that would be about my .15 inch (3.05 vs 2.90) difference I have. I'll even them up. It took me a couple tries to figure out that because of the mechanical advantage on the shock on the A-arm, a movement of .1 inch on the shock gets me .2 inch or more on the ride height change. (The rears are easier with a near 1 for 1 change.) I haven't measured the rear shock collars lately, but I'll check and even them up as well.
Last edited by boat737; 03-22-2018 at 08:21 AM.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
---Boyd---
MkIV #9042 build thread
www.boss427.us
427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019
Are pictures taken at ride height? The upper A arm angles ( downward to the outside) indicate higher than normal ride height or very short tire. They should be flat or tilting slightly up at the spindle. I don't know if my perception of the photos is correct but looks to me like chassis is set too high.
358 SBC, Winters QC, Sweet mfg, Coleman, AP Racing, ARS, TKO 600, Fuel Safe
---Boyd---
MkIV #9042 build thread
www.boss427.us
427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019
I should have said A arm angles ideally are flat to tilting upward. My car has fabricated spindles and relocated Upper and lower arms. Factory A arm mount locations may result in different range of angles for given ride height.
Picture of driver side actually looks pretty close to flat.
358 SBC, Winters QC, Sweet mfg, Coleman, AP Racing, ARS, TKO 600, Fuel Safe
It's always fun to restart an old thread, so here we go. Setting ride height was this afternoon's activity. I thought I had a pretty good idea how I was going to go about it, but found this thread. Quite useful, actually. But... a question: the front is equally set right/left at 4 1/2 inches. I was hoping to get it around 5, but I can't turn the collars any more (by hand). The rear, without touching it, turned out to be about 5 1/2 on both sides at the frame. (The round part of the frame, in front of the welded pieces that are just a bit lower at the very rear of the frame tubes) It appears (from some of the above posts) that it's not uncommon to have the rear a little higher. What about an inch higher? Too much? The solution would be to get one of the above listed spanners (oh boy! a new tool!). I like GoDad's option at 6.95 vs. the Amazon wrench at 30+ bucks, but I'm not convinced it would fit. So - raise front or leave it alone? GoDad wrench or Duke wrench? Thanks!
Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount
Al_C,
I've used a Rubber Strap Wrench too.
That option is an easy one to come by too.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-2-Pi...l-Set/50029434
Steve
Tire Diameter is a consideration, if you have short front tires compared to others. Are photos of car on the ground? Picture of right front looks like A arm angled down.
358 SBC, Winters QC, Sweet mfg, Coleman, AP Racing, ARS, TKO 600, Fuel Safe
Forgot my older post, senior moment.
358 SBC, Winters QC, Sweet mfg, Coleman, AP Racing, ARS, TKO 600, Fuel Safe
OK, I'll lower the rear and leave the front alone. Jeff, you're welcome to tweak it when we get the car to Bloomington!
Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount