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Thread: # 1115 resurrection

  1. #1
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    # 1115 resurrection

    A few weeks ago I put the word out that I was looking for an unfinished Factory Five Racing 33 Hot Rod kit. I got 3 responses, a Gen 2 Stage 1 kit in Missouri, A Gen 1 Stage 1 kit in the Carolinas and a Gen 2 Stage 2 kit in New Hampshire. The guy in Missouri turned out to be a complete flake, the one in the Carolinas was nice but a Gen 1, I really wanted a Gen 2. After a few e-mails and phone calls I made an offer on the one in New Hampshire and we made a deal. I offered to send a deposit and was told that wasn't necessary. He agreed to hold the car until Thanksgiving weekend and if I didn't show up he would move on to the next guy. Made me a little nervous only having a verbal agreement but he was a man of his word. Since I was driving to New Jersey to spend Thanksgiving with my daughter, a quick trip to New Hampshire would work out perfectly. I made the 14 hour round trip yesterday and picked it up.
    Basic info, Build #1115
    383 SBC Stroker rated at 425hp, 700r4, 8.8 rear w/3:73 gears. The engine is a new build off of E-bay and has never been run, never fired. The Trans is new from Patriot trans. As you can see, there has been a bunch of assembly but, I'm going to blow it all apart and do it my way .. lol
    20221127_094832.jpg20221127_094851.jpg20221127_094904.jpg20221127_094920.jpg20221127_094927.jpg20221127_094949.jpg

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  3. #2

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Good Luck, Happy Wrenching & Watch Your Pinkies!

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    great find. Let the fun and sometimes frustration begin. But we all get through it will a little patience.

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    Good find, nice to see he had the doors and trunk already trimmed to fit.
    I think I had the doors on/off about 10 times before I was happy with the fit.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Good find, nice to see he had the doors and trunk already trimmed to fit.
    I think I had the doors on/off about 10 times before I was happy with the fit.
    Unfortunately, they're on the there but not adjusted or aligned and not so sure about the gaps.. this should be fun.. lol

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  10. #6
    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    What a find! Have fun with it.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1, Gen.2 ordered 11/11/2021 started June 12, 2022, LS3 E-Rod crate engine, Tremec TKX, 8.8 WITH 3.55 Ratio and limited slip with 31 spline axles.17X8 and18x10 Race Star wheels wrapped in Conti Extreme contact DWS tires, Mustang Cobra brakes all around. Electric PS and AC. Hard top, electric windows and bike fenders. First Start 5/31/2023. Go-Kart 6/2/2023.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mastertech5 View Post
    What a find! Have fun with it.
    Thanks, I've enjoyed watching your build tread and learning from it.

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    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    I have my fits of rage at times. Like with the ECU power up wire if you read that. I spent half a day looking through the harness for it and it was coiled up with the diag. connector and accel. pedal wiring in the left corner on the floor. The instruction said to locate it in the harness and can be brought into the interior with the other two. Can be, to me, means find it and run it in with those if desired not when you run those in it will hit you in the face that that's where it is. Even though I was a Tech for 40 years the manual writers and engineers think everyone has an engineering degree and they'll understand. NOT����
    Now that that's over with I'm glad you can learn from my build. If you have questions feel free to ask me here or on the sub-threads under 33 Hot Rod pertaining to your subject, which I've noticed you have done. Great group of people here willing to help.
    Last edited by Mastertech5; 12-12-2022 at 04:06 PM. Reason: Correct autofill errors
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1, Gen.2 ordered 11/11/2021 started June 12, 2022, LS3 E-Rod crate engine, Tremec TKX, 8.8 WITH 3.55 Ratio and limited slip with 31 spline axles.17X8 and18x10 Race Star wheels wrapped in Conti Extreme contact DWS tires, Mustang Cobra brakes all around. Electric PS and AC. Hard top, electric windows and bike fenders. First Start 5/31/2023. Go-Kart 6/2/2023.

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    First thing was to pull the intake and see if it is a Hyd roller or not, and it's not. Ordering a Howards Roller Cam and Lifters, Advertised Duration 278/284, Lift .500/.510 and all the associated gaskets. So far i've purchased seat adjuster tracts, a Mike Everson fan shroud, a complete A/C kit and a 33 replacement grill. Spoke to Dan Ruth about some other misc goodies. He's winding down and not producing things like he used to so i'll have to source some things elsewhere. Need to get the body off and see what needs to be addressed. It's going to be slow process

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    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    I can't tell from your pictures. EFI or carb?
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1, Gen.2 ordered 11/11/2021 started June 12, 2022, LS3 E-Rod crate engine, Tremec TKX, 8.8 WITH 3.55 Ratio and limited slip with 31 spline axles.17X8 and18x10 Race Star wheels wrapped in Conti Extreme contact DWS tires, Mustang Cobra brakes all around. Electric PS and AC. Hard top, electric windows and bike fenders. First Start 5/31/2023. Go-Kart 6/2/2023.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mastertech5 View Post
    I can't tell from your pictures. EFI or carb?
    Right now it's carb. I'm running a Holley Stealth Term-X on my Camaro and leaning towards that or an 8 stack multiport system like the Borla unit.

  19. #12
    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    The eight stack looks so cool! My preference though. Old time Hot Rod look.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1, Gen.2 ordered 11/11/2021 started June 12, 2022, LS3 E-Rod crate engine, Tremec TKX, 8.8 WITH 3.55 Ratio and limited slip with 31 spline axles.17X8 and18x10 Race Star wheels wrapped in Conti Extreme contact DWS tires, Mustang Cobra brakes all around. Electric PS and AC. Hard top, electric windows and bike fenders. First Start 5/31/2023. Go-Kart 6/2/2023.

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  21. #13
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    Parts are rolling in
    Cam & Lifters
    timing cover
    Fuel Pump
    Fan Shroud
    seat tracks
    Electric steering
    A/C kit
    20221216_124149.jpg

  22. #14
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    Got the new grill from 33pizzaguy and it's nice. mocked it up and laid the hood on there. I love the 33 look so much better than the 32 grill.
    20221222_164941.jpg20221222_164952.jpg

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  24. #15
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    Radiator arrived today, mocked up the shroud and fan. Looks much better with the shroud and i'm sure helps the cooling.

    20221226_211801 by F G, on Flickr

    20221226_211741 by F G, on Flickr

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  26. #16
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    Pulled the cam & lifters out and prepping for the new Hyd Roller set up

    20221226_174352 by F G, on Flickr

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  28. #17
    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    You know about the bushing or bearing that needs to go on the front of the cam when converting to roller lifters, I hope. Keeps the cam from walking so the cam lobes stay in position on the lifters. I'd hate to see your engine get ruined.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1, Gen.2 ordered 11/11/2021 started June 12, 2022, LS3 E-Rod crate engine, Tremec TKX, 8.8 WITH 3.55 Ratio and limited slip with 31 spline axles.17X8 and18x10 Race Star wheels wrapped in Conti Extreme contact DWS tires, Mustang Cobra brakes all around. Electric PS and AC. Hard top, electric windows and bike fenders. First Start 5/31/2023. Go-Kart 6/2/2023.

  29. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mastertech5 View Post
    You know about the bushing or bearing that needs to go on the front of the cam when converting to roller lifters, I hope. Keeps the cam from walking so the cam lobes stay in position on the lifters. I'd hate to see your engine get ruined.
    Yep, cam button and need to set to around 0.005-0.010 inch end play. Thanks, never hurts to have a reminder

  30. #19
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    Got the cam and lifters installed last night, measured and ordered new push rods. Set the camshaft end play only to find that the new fancy aluminum timing cover won't clear the short water pump. So now I need to re-do the end play with the stamped steel cover.
    I'm worried about this engine, it seems very dirty inside for an engine that has never been run. Not sure if it's from sitting around in a very dusty, dirty area wherever it was sitting the past few years or if it's the typical e-bay engine deal. The entire car is covered in dirt so i'm hoping that's all it is. Going to wash it out with some cheap thin oil and a small brush and drain it... As many times as it takes until I feel better about it.

  31. #20
    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
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    Was it a crate engine that was bought and shelved? By dirty, do you make rust scale, gunky oil build up, debris, what is the definition of dirty?

    If it was supposedly a new crate engine, you take an engine builder line BluePrint Engines and they run an orange dye in coolant passages and I think blue dye in the oil to check for leaks while doing their initial start up / dyno test, then drain it and crate it like that, they never flush them. The orange is misleading cause it makes the initial water orange / rusty looking and there would be a bluish haze in the oil passages & valleys.

    One way to tell if it was ever ran would be to remove the head and see if you have wear on the cylinder wall or a carbon ring build up at the top of the cylinder.

    Ebay buys make me leary, I've gotten lucky and burned on eBay.

    Jim
    33 Hot Rod w/ 302 & Tremec T5; paint color is 68 Ford Mustang GT LimeGold
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Build-Thread

  32. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33fromSD View Post
    Was it a crate engine that was bought and shelved? By dirty, do you make rust scale, gunky oil build up, debris, what is the definition of dirty?

    If it was supposedly a new crate engine, you take an engine builder line BluePrint Engines and they run an orange dye in coolant passages and I think blue dye in the oil to check for leaks while doing their initial start up / dyno test, then drain it and crate it like that, they never flush them. The orange is misleading cause it makes the initial water orange / rusty looking and there would be a bluish haze in the oil passages & valleys.

    One way to tell if it was ever ran would be to remove the head and see if you have wear on the cylinder wall or a carbon ring build up at the top of the cylinder.

    Ebay buys make me leary, I've gotten lucky and burned on eBay.

    Jim
    This wasn't "my" purchase, it was the original buyer/builder that I bought the kit from and came with the car. I knew it was a risk but I felt for the price of the kit, I could make it right if I need to. As far as dirty, I feel and see grit in the lifter valley. Put a magnet on the grit and it's not metallic, more like actual dirt. I was able to run it between my fingers and it kind of dissolved or broke down in to a mud, if that makes any sense.

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  34. #22
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    Well Jim, In my infinite stupidity, It dawned on me tonight while cleaning the intake gaskets off the heads and thinking, dang, there's a lot of dusty dirty on the edge of these gaskets... I didn't clean around the intake when I removed it and all the dirt that was along the edges fell in to the lifter valley..
    I gave the lifter valley a good bath and scrubbing with 10w-30 and i'll drain the pan tomorrow.

  35. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just 1 More View Post
    Well Jim, In my infinite stupidity, It dawned on me tonight while cleaning the intake gaskets off the heads and thinking, dang, there's a lot of dusty dirty on the edge of these gaskets... I didn't clean around the intake when I removed it and all the dirt that was along the edges fell in to the lifter valley..
    I gave the lifter valley a good bath and scrubbing with 10w-30 and i'll drain the pan tomorrow.
    Happens to all of us.

    Jim
    33 Hot Rod w/ 302 & Tremec T5; paint color is 68 Ford Mustang GT LimeGold
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Build-Thread

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  37. #24
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    Flaming River Elec assist steering installed

    20230102_150049 by F G, on Flickr

    20230102_155818 by F G, on Flickr

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  39. #25
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    I placed my order for a 33 hot rod last week. I just got my confirmation letter today. Can you tell me how to post a question to all 33 hot rod members? So far I figured out how to reply to a link, but do not see any tab to post a question. Thanks.

  40. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanQ View Post
    I placed my order for a 33 hot rod last week. I just got my confirmation letter today. Can you tell me how to post a question to all 33 hot rod members? So far I figured out how to reply to a link, but do not see any tab to post a question. Thanks.
    You should see a "Post New Thread" blue button at the main 33 forum, but perhaps not yet because you're new. David (the admin) will likely have to push a button - DM him
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

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  42. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanQ View Post
    I placed my order for a 33 hot rod last week. I just got my confirmation letter today. Can you tell me how to post a question to all 33 hot rod members? So far I figured out how to reply to a link, but do not see any tab to post a question. Thanks.
    Dan congrats on ordering a hotrod. When you can post you will see this.

    D3095204-D851-43CD-8948-6EDD4125FBBC.jpeg
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  43. #28
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    Frustration has set in... I knew I was going to have to redo some stuff and now that i'm in to it, I find myself getting very frustrated with the rabbit hole that's opening up in front of me, finding more of what I suspected and kind of expected but, that doesn't make me feel any better. The guy who started this project slapped it together halfazzed and skipped stuff like insulation and sound deadening in the floor aluminum panels.. Oh and the wiring that's just hanging or balled up under the dash. It started with, the cam replacement, which went good, then installing a March Serpentine drive with A/C & Alt so I can fire the engine... crank pulley wouldn't fit. Found out that FFR has a revision on the engine mounts and that moves the engine back a little, but not far enough for me, we're talking 1/8 - 3/16 more needed. I've got the engine back as far as it will go, the trans pan hitting the welded in crossmember that you cant get to because all the aluminium floor panels and trans tunnel have already been riveted in.. so start drilling out rivets,, but wait, there's a series of rivets that are behind the engine along the firewall.. Have to pull the engine to get to them.. grrrrr.. let's go to plan B, leave the engine where it is and break out the mini belt sander and take some off the steering rack mount bushing, That worked, but only gives me 1/8-3/16" clearance and you have to pull the crank pulley to remove or install the belt, I can deal with that. Now to weld up the re-fabd engine mounts. BUT, I really need to get those damn rivets out so I can pull the trans tunnel to get to all the wiring and fuel lines.. rant over for now..... to be continued

  44. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Just 1 More View Post
    Frustration has set in... I knew I was going to have to redo some stuff and now that i'm in to it, I find myself getting very frustrated with the rabbit hole that's opening up in front of me, finding more of what I suspected and kind of expected but, that doesn't make me feel any better. The guy who started this project slapped it together halfazzed and skipped stuff like insulation and sound deadening in the floor aluminum panels.. Oh and the wiring that's just hanging or balled up under the dash. It started with, the cam replacement, which went good, then installing a March Serpentine drive with A/C & Alt so I can fire the engine... crank pulley wouldn't fit. Found out that FFR has a revision on the engine mounts and that moves the engine back a little, but not far enough for me, we're talking 1/8 - 3/16 more needed. I've got the engine back as far as it will go, the trans pan hitting the welded in crossmember that you cant get to because all the aluminium floor panels and trans tunnel have already been riveted in.. so start drilling out rivets,, but wait, there's a series of rivets that are behind the engine along the firewall.. Have to pull the engine to get to them.. grrrrr.. let's go to plan B, leave the engine where it is and break out the mini belt sander and take some off the steering rack mount bushing, That worked, but only gives me 1/8-3/16" clearance and you have to pull the crank pulley to remove or install the belt, I can deal with that. Now to weld up the re-fabd engine mounts. BUT, I really need to get those damn rivets out so I can pull the trans tunnel to get to all the wiring and fuel lines.. rant over for now..... to be continued
    I've been there - it can be done! I've used a couple of methods: a flexible drill extension and a right angle air drill - the latter is my favorite for tight spaces and I've ended up using it quite a lot.

    air drill.jpg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

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  46. #30
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    Welded up the new engine mounts with the old brackets. Re-clocked the steering motor. This set the engine back as far as it could go. Should be just enough for the front serpentine drive and now room for exhaust also.

    20230114_184656 by F G, on Flickr

    20230114_184616 by F G, on Flickr

    20230114_184551 by F G, on Flickr

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  48. #31
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    BLING ALERT !!!!

    20230115_171754 by F G, on Flickr

    20230115_171809 by F G, on Flickr

  49. #32
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    Looks great! I have the same pulley system on my SBF

    Steve
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  51. #33
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    Any chance you could post measured distance from front of balancer to back of rack. I'm hoping for 3.75 or more. I'm making plans for a truck with a 350 Chevy and from what I've been told 33 and 35 are the same firewall forward

    Thank you

  52. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by THUNDERSTRUCK View Post
    Any chance you could post measured distance from front of balancer to back of rack. I'm hoping for 3.75 or more. I'm making plans for a truck with a 350 Chevy and from what I've been told 33 and 35 are the same firewall forward

    Thank you
    I'm right at 3.75 to the rack mount on the passenger side, that I sanded down, almost 4 to the actual rack body.

  53. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just 1 More View Post
    I'm right at 3.75 to the rack mount on the passenger side, that I sanded down, almost 4 to the actual rack body.
    Thank You
    Sounds like it will be close but will work. Have you moved engine back at all

  54. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by THUNDERSTRUCK View Post
    Thank You
    Sounds like it will be close but will work. Have you moved engine back at all
    As far back as I could move it. Trans pan is now bumping the crossmember

  55. #37
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    Got the uppers in today, now waiting on the lowers
    20230120_150757.jpg

  56. #38
    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    Looks like you'll have to remove those from the frame mounts to adjust. The ones I got have a double ended stud sleeve with 2 locknuts, similar to the front lower control arm rear, on each each of the sleeve so removal is not necessary. I also have bushings for the diff housing that look like the front ones on those arms. No binding. Are you getting adjustable lowers too. I was told by Mark Reynolds at Breeze that you shouldn't use those that he sells on a 4 link. You need the stability and give of poly or rubber bushings on a triangulated 4 link. I'm glad I got the uppers though because I adjusted them to the kit arm length before installing them and my pinion angle is too excessive so I need to make them longer to raise the pinion higher.
    Last edited by Mastertech5; 01-20-2023 at 11:00 PM.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1, Gen.2 ordered 11/11/2021 started June 12, 2022, LS3 E-Rod crate engine, Tremec TKX, 8.8 WITH 3.55 Ratio and limited slip with 31 spline axles.17X8 and18x10 Race Star wheels wrapped in Conti Extreme contact DWS tires, Mustang Cobra brakes all around. Electric PS and AC. Hard top, electric windows and bike fenders. First Start 5/31/2023. Go-Kart 6/2/2023.

  57. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mastertech5 View Post
    Looks like you'll have to remove those from the frame mounts to adjust. The ones I got have a double ended stud sleeve with 2 locknuts, similar to the front lower control arm rear, on each each of the sleeve so removal is not necessary. I also have bushings for the diff housing that look like the front ones on those arms. No binding. Are you getting adjustable lowers too. I was told by Mark Reynolds at Breeze that you shouldn't use those that he sells on a 4 link. You need the stability and give of poly or rubber bushings on a triangulated 4 link. I'm glad I got the uppers though because I adjusted them to the kit arm length before installing them and my pinion angle is too excessive so I need to make them longer to raise the pinion higher.
    These use the Ridetech "R" joint which have a cushion of sorts so it's not as brutal as a solid spherical heims joint.


    BMR makes a replacement bushing for the 8.8 housing that uses a spherical insert. It eliminates the binding of the bushing.

    BK074_large.jpg

    The lowers will also be Ridetech "R" joints on both ends. Not sure why he suggested not using them on a triangulated 4 link. My 68 Camaro has a complete Ridetech triangulated 4 link with "R" joints on every rod end and it's fantastic.

  58. #40
    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    I asked him if I used a panhard bar to keep things straight would be ok and he said no. Only use one on parallel 4 bar links. I can always change them out later.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1, Gen.2 ordered 11/11/2021 started June 12, 2022, LS3 E-Rod crate engine, Tremec TKX, 8.8 WITH 3.55 Ratio and limited slip with 31 spline axles.17X8 and18x10 Race Star wheels wrapped in Conti Extreme contact DWS tires, Mustang Cobra brakes all around. Electric PS and AC. Hard top, electric windows and bike fenders. First Start 5/31/2023. Go-Kart 6/2/2023.

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