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Thread: # 1002, SVTFreaks build.

  1. #161
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    I modified the dremel router depth tool today and cut out to flush mount my cowl covers. It's not perfect, but a little extra glass behind and a touch of body filler and they'll look great. Here is the tool and how I just cut the brace off. It took some patience for sure though.


    Here is final "routed" product.



    I did install the driveshaft cover also. Pain to do once the tunnel is in....


    Lastly, I turned the body over to finish back filling my tail light holes. Also going to glass in some metal plates for the rear top bolts. And I'm going to glass in some plates around the front top mount bolts to help spread the force out and prevent cracking I hope. Also have to build up the backs of the cowl access holes to have strength for the rivnuts that will be counter sunk there. That'll be next Mondays work. I'm off next week and hope to have the body on and maybe close to working on power windows by the weeks end.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  3. #162
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Nice job on the Cowl Covers!
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless (Maybe), Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18

  4. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    Nice job on the Cowl Covers!
    Thanks!

    A little glass work today. Glassed in some washers for the back top mount places to help reinforce the rivnuts and hold them in. Got plenty epoxy down around the nuts. Then I made some plates to reinforce the front top mount areas and help spread the load out. Hopefully prevent any stress and cracking. Then I built up the area around my access panels where I counter sinking them in since it was pretty thin. That's it for today. Got some errands to run and grab some body filler. Think I'll do the body seams tomorrow before I put the body on maybe Wednesday.


    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  5. #164
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    Made a carbon fuel vent canister today. 1 1/2 pvc pipe. Fish tank charcoal filler with dry rite to remove water. Excuse my messy bench

    The parts.

    Inlet end

    Vent end. Just a pattern of 1/8" holes. Can also see the media in some gas to test it. This is the dry rite that'll go in last to help dry the air going into the tank and hopefully help with E10's affinity for water.

    Fish tank charcoal inside a Panty hose foot then pulled tight and tied off and packed in.

    The dry rite. I filled the carbon the same way. Then pulled tight and tied off. I left extrato help keep it tight so it won't let vapors get around the media if I mount it horizontal

    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  6. #165
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    Finished product. Both ends. Cap not glued on yet. Gonna let dry rite sit in gas overnight to ensure it'll work. Just some extra help for the humid south Louisiana air. Carbon should work well enough alone but I had it laying around so trying it out.



    Tomorrow lll sand and paintit black.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  7. #166
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    That is a really nice touch on the access panels.

  8. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrp View Post
    That is a really nice touch on the access panels.
    Thanks! The only hurdle I have left is to figure out what type of seal stripping to use. It has to be thin and be able to keep water out.

    More good progress today. Turned the body back over, cleaned up the access edges. 4 layers of cloth yielded thick ledges for the plates. Then I decided to do the body seams with it off the car. I use 3M platinum plus. Then on the car it went. I also went and got the doors, top and waterfall out of storage and cleaned up the top.




    But something is wrong. All my body fasteners lined up with minimal fuss. Firewall bolts, body side rivets and rear bolts. Something definitely isn't right for that to happen lol

    Tomorrow, I think I'll reinstall the doors and fit the waterfall (haven't had it in yet) and maybeput the top on so I can start working on power windows.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  9. #168
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    Watcha planning on doing with the tail lights? looks like you filled in the space for the standard FFR lights. Going with something flush?

  10. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Watcha planning on doing with the tail lights? looks like you filled in the space for the standard FFR lights. Going with something flush?
    Yessir. Going to put hagan 9" flush mount teardrops instead. And a 12" flush mount third brake light in the top. Above the rear window.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  12. #170
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svtfreak View Post
    Thanks! The only hurdle I have left is to figure out what type of seal stripping to use. It has to be thin and be able to keep water out.
    Since you put thicker glass under the lip, why not pull your router out and drop in an 1/8" bit then cut a small o-ring groove in the flange. McMaster-Carr has just about any size o-ring that you could fit into the groove. You would not need much of the o-ring sticking out of the groove to provide a positive seal.
    Tim Sapp
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    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  13. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Since you put thicker glass under the lip, why not pull your router out and drop in an 1/8" bit then cut a small o-ring groove in the flange. McMaster-Carr has just about any size o-ring that you could fit into the groove. You would not need much of the o-ring sticking out of the groove to provide a positive seal.
    Wow. I love it! Thanks Tim!

    No pics yet. But I got the doors back in (noatches yet) and waterfall fit up. Started to fit the roll bar but without having my basic seat plan sorted out to know where my heads gonna fall, I elected to defer that till I take it apart. Got some minor door refitting to do. Top will go on tomorrow and then I can start the windows but I don't have the materials to make the plans that (I forgot the name) shared here. Maybe I'll go run errands tomorrow lol.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  14. #172
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    Top is back on. Waterfall is in. Doors are pretty darn close. Power window time. Then I think I'll try to get the blower on.

    The flange for the window weatherstripping is too thick. I need to thin it out but I'm tired. Head hurts. Going take a break.

    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  16. #173
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    Started building my power window frame from T Collins today (thanks again!). I did make one change. I cut the top peices 1/8” longer and am fitting the side rails under the 1/16” lip on each end to hide the upright u channels when viewed from the top. I actually may change them out later to even longer to trim the ends better. I’ll decide after I see how it all fits together on the car. Will be next week before I can finish them up.


    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  17. #174
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    Finished the window tracks today. Still have to put the mounting angles in the bottom but figured I’d get it in the door first as there could be huge difference between mine and tCollins. Now on to thinning the weatherstripping flange and getting these in. I’ll try to start on that next week. Gonna grind the front and rear window flanges thinner also while I’m outside with it making a mess.

    I didn’t put the felt and window scraper rubber in yet. I’ll do that right before I load the glass and into the door. At some point I’ll prolly have to redo that anyway when I maybe remake the top parts and paint or chrome them.

    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  19. #175
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    Took the top off today to thin the flanges around the windows for the weather stripping and grind the front and rear window openings out to a 3/4" ledge all around. The front and rear where fine. The side windows though where very thin in some spots, and not glued together well. I broke through in some places. Dadgummit. So, I mixed up some epoxy and soaked some cloth in it and tucked into where I broke through. I hope to get it plugged enough I can mix some flock and fill it in without having to access the backside. Well see after this cures and I can smooth it out I guess. It might have done it cause I ground too much off to try to get the weather stripping tucked as close to the body as possible. If I'd have left a touch more of the flange, might have been OK. Either way, now I have to fix it and it'll still look the way I want it to when done.

    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  20. #176
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    Made an attempt at patching the spots today. I did a test yesterday and it seems to have worked. Rather than try to get access to the backside, I soaked some glass and and poked it down into the cracks. Then sanded down. Seems to have bonded well enough. So today I did them all. After it cures well (aided by a lamp since it's cold today), I'll fill the little voids left. Also changed out the studs for mounting the front to longer ones to clear the extra bracing I put under the cowl.


    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  22. #177

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    I have a question,,, maybe a little off point, but looking at your body upside down on floor while you are doing glass work,,,, Are there any special weak areas that need an extra bit of glass work to make the body stronger etc??? I have my body sitting on a rolling dolly right side up and I can see pin holes of light coming through the parting seam at the front of the cowl. I know I'm going to have to work on that seam and maybe OTHER areas as well??? Thx in advance.

  23. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnlyAndy View Post
    I have a question,,, maybe a little off point, but looking at your body upside down on floor while you are doing glass work,,,, Are there any special weak areas that need an extra bit of glass work to make the body stronger etc??? I have my body sitting on a rolling dolly right side up and I can see pin holes of light coming through the parting seam at the front of the cowl. I know I'm going to have to work on that seam and maybe OTHER areas as well??? Thx in advance.
    If I wasnt running a top, id definitely add some sparing under the rear package tray area (rear cowl). The sides behind the dooors I also will probably add some glassed in wood to prevent flexing but will get it all together to see if its needed.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  24. #179
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    I had taken advantage of adding some glass to the underside to smooth it out and also make the fit as good as possible (ensuring as little bondo as possible). The steel baker is bonded in well and will hold however I went the extra step and bonded in special fasteners to lock in the fasteners, see my build page #167, https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...3-Hot-Rod-1028 and you can see how i had glassed and smoothed it out before bonding in the fasteners.
    20180704_134753.jpg 20180704_134801.jpg

  25. #180
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    Looks good, ajt. Is your top permanent? I don't see your weather strips there.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  26. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svtfreak View Post
    Looks good, ajt. Is your top permanent? I don't see your weather strips there.
    Top is not permanent however the tape that comes with the car, when compressed is less than an eighth thick so when i dry fit it, it did not make a difference. Here is the fasteners when they were bonded in.
    20181006_213311.jpg 20181006_213257.jpg
    I left the stainless washer there as well, my blog shows the steps I took.

  27. #182
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    Sweet thanks.

    I got my window channels fixed up (haven't smoothed it all out yet). And the top back on. Tomorrow, hopefully, I'll start working on getting the window motors and Collins frames in.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  28. #183
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    Good progress today but no pictures. I am doing the passenger side windows. Once I get it done and to the driver side, I'll document the steps and post. I have the Collins designed frame fitting and have the motor almost mounted. The holes to mount it are a pain to drill and I suggest doing it before you assemble the doors. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have that done and the glass in and maybe some movement.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  29. #184
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    OK. Started on drivers side today so will dcomument in more detail the steps to put in Collins window frames. And to let you guys see f I'm screwing up.

    Step one. Install the window striping. You can see how far back I cut the flange to allow more viewing area out of the side windows.


    Now just like ffr says, mark where the edge meets the door. This is where the glass should fall.


    Now we mark where the front and rear edge of the glass will be when centered in the opening. I used the glass. Center it up and mark the ends.



    Now we measure the frame to figure the opening. You need 1/2" on the outside from center and 3/8" on inside


    Now well draw the lines. Just like ffr says but using the above measurements. Then draw the ends. The frame is 1/2" longer than the window. So square the ends of the box you drew 1/4" longrr on each end.


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  31. #185
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    Cut it out. I used an air saw. However. I found my top was not glued together well at all. So I'll fix it later today.



    Now we need to place the motor. I'll sand the edges and clean up the slot and pick up on fitting it after my epoxy cures. Maybe tomorrow.

    The book says to cut the track and it's too short then for most people. So I measured,at the center of the slot, from the bottom of the lower door steel arm to the bottom of the slot for the window and cut the track this. It was 16 15/16th for me. Then I measured from the top of the mounting bracket up the track and cut.


    Install motor and drill and bolt up holes. I centered it to the window slot. Missing a bolt still cause I can't get it drilled right while Installee. I'll drill the last one later


    After the motor is in, you can get the windows basic position set by loosening the bolts and moving the bracket in/out/twist to line the window plate up to the slot when looking down. I have it close but not perfect in this photo. I'll line it up better once the frame is in


    To be continued. I stopped here today and fiberglassed the door tops back together. Tomorrow I'll clean that up then continue on.

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  33. #186
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    Following your install very closely as I am at the same point in getting the power windows installed. I needed to trim, reduce the thickness and get the edge as close to 3/16" as possible. As I am doing the FFR method of install, it'll be interesting to see how the felts line up as the gap is smaller than the felts themselves, I expect the window will push up and through the felt when moved up. we will see this weekend!!

  34. #187
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    Back at it today for a little bit.

    The frame sets into the slot after some sanding and filing. Here it is sitting on the nuts at each end. Mark the nuts locations and take a little material out so they’ll slide through. I removed the bottom brace of the frame and reinstalled it inside the door so as to not cut the a slot too large. I filed out cut outs for the nuts and the rivets that hold the glass wiper in



    Set down in place. You notice the center isn’t touching. I’ll pull that down later with some pretty little screws through the angle to tie the door tops to the frame and make it all stiffer.


    Install the glass holder. I trimmed the bolts so they won’t hang up on the bottom brace of the frame when lowered.


    Slide the glass in and let it kinda line the frame up to its travel. I’ll fine tune the position if all a little later. When all mounts in place.


    Fabricated the mount at the front. Had to add a piece to reach the door frame over what mr Collins designed. The passenger side didn’t need it but this side did.


    Had to stop to go somewhere so will pick up tomorrow on making the rear mount.

    Side note, I also trimmed the length of the bolts that hold the bottom brace on so they don’t hit the outer door skin.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  36. #188
    Member Tampa33Build's Avatar
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    Great detail!
    I hope to be installing the windows next month and plan on using Mr. Collin's design also.

  37. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tampa33Build View Post
    Great detail!
    I hope to be installing the windows next month and plan on using Mr. Collin's design also.
    Great! His is a great design, but it also has its flaws. I’ll detail them all and how I worked around after I have them completed and working.

    Ok. Got the rear mount done for the Collins frame. Didn’t need to be this complicated but i wanted the bolt through to the jamb to be in same place on both sides.



    Run the track down to the bottom and Install the glass and run The glass up and down by hand a few times with the frame mounts loose. This aligns the track to the window. Tighten the mounts. Then bring the track up to about halfway. Push the glass down to it. It probably will not line up with the glass holder. Loosen the motor and track mount bolts and align the window holder to the bottom of the window. I actually removed the track bracket and did the motor then redrilled the track bracket. Before and after.



    Now run the window up using the motor and get it to its highest point. Might require lowering and raising again using quick taps of the ground. It should be very close to right. (I’ve got to move my track slightly to get it to sit against the rubber at the top. I will probably remove the bottom brace of the Collins track after the mounts are tight on final assembly to get the room I’ll need to get it flush to rubber. It’s very close here)


    At this point, I decided since i have to have the passenger side trimmed to fit, I’m going to have this side trimmed to be a better fit also. I marked the glass with tape to bring to glass shop.

    While it’s in upper position, mark the glass and track for the holder install and stops install. Run to the bottom and mark for bottom stops install per instructions. Here is marked for the holder. There are slots so it just has to be close.



    Alright. Now it all comes completely apart. After I get to the glass shop, maybe after Christmas next week, I’ll get back on it for stops installation and final assembly and we’ll walk through that. I’m cautiously optimistic at the moment.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  39. #190
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    Well I just came back from the glass shop and due to the fact that the glass is tempered they cannot trim or sand it down at all!! So now I am stuck trying to figure out how to modify the hard top so the glass fits with some play, at least on the passenger side, drivers side I can work with. Curious to see where you end up as well.

  40. #191
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    Not what I wanted to hear, AJ! That’s going to be some serious glass work on that passenger side. Driver side is mighty close and could work but passenger side won’t fit as is. I’m not even sure I won’t have to shorten the Collins window frame if the glass is shortened that much.

    The edges look sanded from ffr. I find that hard to believe that it can’t be sanded. I can see not able to score and cut but sanding? I’m off to google and will let you know what glas shop says. May run by there tomorrow.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  41. #192
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svtfreak View Post
    Not what I wanted to hear, AJ! Thatís going to be some serious glass work on that passenger side. Driver side is mighty close and could work but passenger side wonít fit as is. Iím not even sure I wonít have to shorten the Collins window frame if the glass is shortened that much.

    The edges look sanded from ffr. I find that hard to believe that it canít be sanded. I can see not able to score and cut but sanding? Iím off to google and will let you know what glas shop says. May run by there tomorrow.
    UPDATE: Tony Z is sending me a new set of side windows, apparently I received ones that were fabricated too wide (just over 32" like a 1/32"). As to the finishing all the sanding and such is done before they are tempered, so what you see is what they did before tempering (which is exactly what my glass guys told me). This is why you cant sand or trim tempered glass it will break!
    Regardless, because your serial number is close to mine (mine is #1028) I would measure yours and send photos and an email to Tony Z. This is what I sent him in my email as a measurement of the passenger side. Not sure what we would do as builders without this blog and network of experienced builders!!
    20181219_201003 - with Notations.jpg

    PS. The front and back windshield are laminated (AS1) and not tempered (AS2) so laminated glass can be sanded down a bit to get that even fit. I will be having mine professionally done before they come and glue it in place after paint (I want an even 1/8" of clearance all around, it'll look better).

  42. #193
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    Thanks aj. I’ll take the measurements and call him maybe next week. 1/32” won’t be near enough though. As I said, I need maybe a touch over 1/4” taken off. I will also inquire my glass shop about cutting a whole new glass and tempering it if it comes to that. I also found the thread telling about the size problem. So I’ll look at other options after I explore that route.

    Thanks AJ!
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  43. #194

    Ol Skool

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    Great Pics! I lost track of whether your using door poppers or plan on the FFR external handles. You may want to make sure you get final fit on the door handles if your using the FFR units. It gets tight in the front of the door with the cable release and hokey assembly FFR supplies. Not sure how the Collins assembly integrates with those. Its also a good time to decide on the suicide safety latch you will use. I'm betting the hardtop and doors represent 50% of the body work on these cars. Definitely the most asymmetry side to side. Thanks for sharing your efforts

  44. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    Great Pics! I lost track of whether your using door poppers or plan on the FFR external handles. You may want to make sure you get final fit on the door handles if your using the FFR units. It gets tight in the front of the door with the cable release and hokey assembly FFR supplies. Not sure how the Collins assembly integrates with those. Its also a good time to decide on the suicide safety latch you will use. I'm betting the hardtop and doors represent 50% of the body work on these cars. Definitely the most asymmetry side to side. Thanks for sharing your efforts
    Thank you!

    I will be using door handles but I am undecided as to what I want. Part of me wants chrome handles like the ffr supplied units, and part of me wants color matched flush like what is on first gen Mazda Miata. Either way, I wanted to get the windows in and working so I can see what room is left to work with. Same with the safety latch. I have an idea and may end up building my own using transmiiosn park/neutral switch (since my shifter ones are unused for the starter as that is integral to the ecu).

    Yes I'm finding out that the top and doors and windows are about the hardest part! But I'm cautiously optimistic that I can actually do this lol!
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  45. #196

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
    GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Blog Entries
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    When You Said This Car Was Way Tougher Than Your Earlier Build Boy Did You Mean It!

    Good Luck From The Go Dad In The Dell!

    Slidell That Is!

    Steve

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  47. #197
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    Mine is #1024, did the windows a month or so ago. The PS was definately tighter than the DS but it does fit in the opening without much room to spare. Only thing I had to do was change to up stop.

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  49. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    When You Said This Car Was Way Tougher Than Your Earlier Build Boy Did You Mean It!

    Good Luck From The Go Dad In The Dell!

    Slidell That Is!

    Steve
    OH yeah Steve. The first person that says "oh you bolted together a kit car" is getting punched in the mouth! Lol. Seriously, the hot rod is more a collection of parts that ffr choose that kind of will fit together with some work to make a car. Def not as refined and proven as their mark 4's. And many parts need more massaging than building a car from parts you choose from Speedway motors (for instance).

    Quote Originally Posted by duff33 View Post
    Mine is #1024, did the windows a month or so ago. The PS was definately tighter than the DS but it does fit in the opening without much room to spare. Only thing I had to do was change to up stop.
    Thanks duff. I'll Def look into that also. Did you trim back your flange around the window opening to closer to 3/4" or did you leave it the full thickness? If I would have left the top rail the full thickness from the edge, it might have allowed me to let the window not come up quite as far. But that wouldn't have looked right.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  50. #199
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    I cut all windows to 1/2, did not want to have the edge show between seal and body. all was good but a little tight on top of doors.

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  52. #200
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    I called FFR and sent them some pics. They told me to try to fit the front windshield in so I did. Sure enough, that lower passenger corner didn't fit right. It appears my top is pulled in in that lower corner causing my problem. They suggested redrilling the mounting holes, heating the top st that corner and pulling it forward to make the fit and shape correct, using windshield fitment as a guide and that will give the right clearance for the windows. I'm going to take a little break and replace the fireplace for my wife, get her reading nook built, to keep her happy she keeps being OK with me building cars. Lol. So, I'll be back on this in a couple weeks or so.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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