# 1002, SVTFreaks build.

[GoDadGo]

The Hot Rod Appears To Be Way Tougher To Build Than The Roadster!

[RoadRacer]

The Hot Rod Appears To Be Way Tougher To Build Than The Roadster!

Shhh, don't tell us that!!

[Svtfreak]

I don't like to say tougher. I'll say "more challenging". Lol

Yes at very different and obviously not refined by 10,000 builds. It's no easier than building your own using parts acquired from swap meets and speedway motors etc.

[kraftee]

It's no easier than building your own using parts acquired from swap meets and speedway motors etc.

EXACTLY! I have had several people, when told it is a Factory Five, say, "Oh, so then it is just a kit." Grrrrrr. EVERY hot rod is a kit! We just happen to buy many of our pieces and parts from one source at one time!

[Svtfreak]

This passenger door is kicking my behind. But I think I'm on the right track now.

It kept binding on the striker when closed. So I did several things trying to get it right. Moved it forward, changed the rear depth, etc. to no avail. Finally I saw it was dropping when off the striker to the slack in the hinge bushings. Well that ain't right. After lots of work, I finally realized that it was sitting on the bottom, and that was making everything out of whack. So I took some off the bottom edge and now it finally lines up and opens and closes without a problem. I haven't reinstalled the latch yet, but I will adjust it to fit the door on the proper place instead of trying to get the door on the right place by adjusting the latch. If that makes sense. Finally, it works like it's supposed to swing! Now to install the striker and then trim it to the correct gaps. I'll install latch tomorrow but I won't trim it until I blow it up to finish it.

Pic but can't really see anything different than before.

[erlihemi]

I have a similar slight drop on the drivers side, but I left it alone as it didn't create an issue with the latch and it worked better with the Hard top gasket. As the door closes it moves up and seals the gasket. On the passenger side my door was good but I ruined the gasket soon after I put the hard top on because it was too tight vertically. I actually have pondered reversing the inner door frames and hinging at the front, but, not on this project. Maybe the MKIIHR will have better doors. Leave room for suicide safety latches while your in door mode also...

[Svtfreak]

Thanks for that tip, erli. I'll watch out for that when I start on the hard top.

How does the windows fit into the hard top? Can you open the doors with the windows up, or do I have one hell of a task ahead of me to make it that way?

GOT IT!

Hah. Finally. After getting the door working right without the striker, I had to remove the built on washer from the striker and make a bushing to push it 3/8" out. Then I had to lengthen the slots in the striker plate, mainly on the bottom. Once I did that, I was able to get it to strike just right. Works like a dream now.

[Svtfreak]

After many hours learning on passenger door, driver was a lot easier. I had to drill new holes in the striker plate and make a spacer for the striker also. It's still not latching all the way, but it might be the spacer is a shade too long and the striker head is hitting something. I got tired of messing with it today though so I'll check that out Friday. And I put the top on just to see what it looks like. Cocky!! I may end up leaving the top on more than off!

[Svtfreak]

Got the drivers door dialed in. Had to trim a shade off the spacer I made for the striker. Works wonderfully now. I have a lot more work to do (start installing power windows, door handles, etc) but taking a break from doors. I threw the striker and hinge trim panels in. And moved on to the back. I drew out the lights, to make sure sizes are right. What's your opinion (see photo)? 9" hagan teardrops and 4" ovals where the stock ones would go for then signals. I've already cut those spots out to fill them flush to the back. Waiting on my resin to get here to start patching. I'm thinking I want red tear drops and orange turn signals but unsure how that'll look. I am not a fan of white or clear rear lights, but that's not out of the warrior (with colored led's instead). Or would you to red lens for them all?

Started trimming the trunk opening. Nothing magical there.




I sure am glad I don't have the motor and trans in it yet. I've spent quite a bit of time sitting in that hole.

[Svtfreak]

Not much done today. Fitting the trunk. No pics there, just sanding fiberglass.

I did make a decision on the lights. I’ll be going with only the teardrops. However, in them I will have 3 strips of led’s. One 9” strip will be brake lights only. I am gonna try (after talking to hagan) to add a second 9” strip in each side. That one will be running lights and turn signals using the high/low toggle input. The brake light strip will be high only. The other option is a 9”, a 6” and a 4”. Each with its own function. 9 is brakes, 6 is park and 4 is signals. I may not know if it’ll work until it’s in and wired but there will still be time to change my mind if it doesn’t. Oh, last option is 9” low is park, high is brake, and figure out how to add a small, maybe 1157 size led, to the bottom of the rear drop for a signal. Any of those 3 options would keep them all in one teardrop.

[Svtfreak]

Two days off work is nice.

Got trunk all fit. Got latch and cable installed and trunk aluminum in. And release. I feel like I should do something different with it but undecided yet. Maybe a popper and button where the release is? I have time to think about that. I do have to adjust it a little. Had to quit so that’ll be next week. Overall, nothing astonishing yet. The prop rod I’m not fond of so considering options to replace it also.

Set the top on and marked so I can figure out gas cap. I’d like to use a hagan with the box and lid and all. We’ll see when I decide to tackle sorting it out. And had to have some fun while the top was on.

[RoadRacer]

Come on, when you play, you're supposed to stick your elbow out, Milner style

milner.png

[Svtfreak]

Lol. You’re right except I was trying to hold myself up!

[Svtfreak]

Today I got the trunk latching right. And moved up front. Decided to get the firewall to body bolt rivnuts in. Found out my screws ain’t long enough. So waiting on those to get body back in right place before working on the hood. Meanwhile, the trunk doesn’t fit quite right. When latched and flush in center, the outside corner are high. (See pic). How do I fix that?

Until my correct bolts get here, I’m just degreasing fiberglass.

[erlihemi]

[QUOTE=Svtfreak;295541]Today I got the trunk latching right. And moved up front. Decided to get the firewall to body bolt rivnuts in. Found out my screws ain’t long enough. So waiting on those to get body back in right place before working on the hood. Meanwhile, the trunk doesn’t fit quite right. When latched and flush in center, the outside corner are high. (See pic). How do I fix that?

Until my correct bolts get here, I’m just degreasing fiberglass.

Mine is only high on the left, but the curve is also off slightly. For now I Have a quarter turn fastener on each corner to pull it in. Park it in the sun when I get a chance. If it "relaxes" before final paint I'll just glass in the holes. Mine has quarter turn on the hood and side panels anyway so it "matches". The "Jeep" method is to use 2 bear claw latches, one in each corner, with the release centered. After the second weekend out in the sun with a hot engine my hood conformed nicely. Maybe a heater in the trunk would work...

[Svtfreak]

I thought about putting it in the sun upside down with a weight in the middle. That’ll give it more curve than needed (like I had to do with the mk 4 hood), and when it hits the bumpers it’ll flex out to match. Then I’ll make a brace to keep it real close (or just get them from Tim). That’s my plan if no one else comes up with something better. Until then, I’ll work on glass, firewall fit and hood and sides.

[Svtfreak]

I did set the top on to get it out my way on floor. And hood since that’s next after I get body bolted back up. Put it in its own (temporary) feet so it’s sitting right to fit the hood. I’m really thinking it’ll spend more time with top on than off.

[RoadRacer]

Yummy. Looking good!

[myjones]

Today I got the trunk latching right. And moved up front. Decided to get the firewall to body bolt rivnuts in. Found out my screws ain’t long enough. So waiting on those to get body back in right place before working on the hood. Meanwhile, the trunk doesn’t fit quite right. When latched and flush in center, the outside corner are high. (See pic). How do I fix that?

Until my correct bolts get here, I’m just degreasing fiberglass.

You might take a look at my Gallery, the folder called trunk hinges IIRC
There is a picture in there of a frame I built to take the stress of the lift supports on the compound action hinges I used.
That frame also allowed me to re-curve the lid (sides) to match the body shape better, but it would work to shape the
bottom edge just as well. It also stiffens the lid across the bottom to improve the latch function by reducing flex.
Some builders have added a similar tube to the body to stiffen it where it was flexing and interfering with the latch function.
HTH
Dale

[Svtfreak]

Thanks, Dale. I will check that out.

[kraftee]

SVT,

Before you go hog wild with reshaping the lid, you might first install the trunk seal. I did not reshape my lid, but my body man obviously put a lot of work into the lid and the body to make it all look right. The gaps are good and everything fits pretty darned well right now (with the exception of the front bottom corner of the driver door - working on that.) And a gentle slam latches the trunk securely every time.

[Svtfreak]

If it was too far in, the seal would push it out into place. The problem is it’s too high. Any seal or bumper is only going to make it worse. I need to get it flush, or even slightly below flush so that the bulb seal or a bumper would bring it up into place.

[kraftee]

Problem is, the fiberglass lid is pretty flexy. The seal helps it conform to the shape of the trunk opening somewhat when it latches. I am just advising doing any major fit changes with the bulb seal in place. Mine was very high on the lower corners also - but came DOWN quite a bit when latched over the seal.

[DaveS53]

Any fitting should be done with the seal in place. The surface that the seal rests upon may need to be ground down to achive a waterproof seal and a good fit. Some builders have resorted to adding strong bracing to the inner trunk to alter the shape of the trunk so the curve matches the body.

[Svtfreak]

Problem is, the fiberglass lid is pretty flexy. The seal helps it conform to the shape of the trunk opening somewhat when it latches. I am just advising doing any major fit changes with the bulb seal in place. Mine was very high on the lower corners also - but came DOWN quite a bit when latched over the seal.

That’s an interesting reaction on your corners!

Pint taken on having the seal in place for final fitting. I’ll do that and only add brace if it still acts up (pun fully intended) then.

[Svtfreak]

I’ve decided to put a sunroof in the hard top. I’m leaning towards removable glass top at the moment though. But first, I have to figure out why the top is way lopsided. I was setting up to fit the hood and the whole car looked low on driver side. I know it wasn’t on the stands and was checked several times. So I got to measuring. Everything on the body was square, straight and level. The top itself was off by a bit. It took me nearly 1/4” of shims to get the passenger side up to look right.

Anyway, fit the front of the hood and worked on back. No pics now.

I had a friend of mine who is a long time body man and car builder come give me advice on making the firewall fit better. I explained my idea and he shot me down. He said it would never stay in place and would chance cracking over time if there is any twist in that area. Even with quality resin, he has concerns. After seeing how much I could move the body around when the firewall wasn’t connected, I decided he is right. It might work for a show car but, although I intend it to be show car quality build, I will be driving it. He suggested just trimming the aluminum to fit even all the way around and let it ride like that. So there we go.

[erlihemi]

At risk of thread hijak I have to say my roof was diamond shaped. I did stretch it a little, but I cant remember which side was short. The body is not symmetrical and my rear fenders are also inset different. I gave up worrying about it and stand back 20 feet. If it looks ok I run with it. I'm building a driver and never intended to perfectify fiberglass. So who is building a steel 33 anyway?? Where did those end up??
The sun roof will certainly help at the stoplight. I recommend tinted glass and a cover if possible. A kick up at the back is nice. looking forward to seeing that mod.

[Svtfreak]

Hanks erlihemi. Yes, after I measure and do what I can, visual is the final judgement. Mine hasn’t been too bad wonky, and better than most peoples.

Yes it’ll be a glass, kick up the back or remove style for sure. With a screen in it and I’ll try to form some
Type of sliding cover maybe. That part is in the very early stages of just thinking about it though.

Finished getting the hood to fit today. The nose cone is way long but wanted input before I took to grinding off excess. Everything is placed according to the manual but see how long it is? The radiator is no closer to the front suspension bolts than the manual says, in fact, prolly further away.

I rolled it outside and made sure the slope from the cowl to the grill is right. Once the low spot on the cowl is filled, and the hood slump in the middle is taken out, it should be perfect. Also glasses in the taillight holes. I’ll have to add a layer or two more I think but that’ll be easy.

[Svtfreak]

I ain’t quit or gave up. Working a lot of overtime, I plus many days spent in doctors office (had a heart scare but they thinking it’s a hernia now, heart is A-ok). I don’t think I’ll get much time until after the holidays.

[erlihemi]

Keep pluggin away! I'm suffering in the shoulder and elbow again which is getting frustrating. Went fishing and shootin and crippled myself. Now I cant' fly fish, shoot a big bore, or wet sand for a couple weeks. Glad to hear you din't have ticker issues. Overtime will pay for the accessories anyway

[Svtfreak]

Lol very true about overtime. I need inside and outside door handles soon. Tail lights and gas cap also. Plus motor. Hoping to get the power train here around spring time and get it go carting.

[Svtfreak]

No pics today. But I ground out some of the glass filling my tail light holes. It wasn’t adhered well in some places so I fixed that. Refilled it with some tricks I learned. Then I marked wheee to trim the doors to set the gaps and yanked them off. Drivers door was trimmed wrong at the front and back so I made a dam and filled that in the make up the difference. I’ll have some to add on the outside once I get it cured and turned over then I’ll trim it to fit and set gaps. I have some mistakes to fill around the arms to fix also so just touching up all that stuff. Ill post pics next week maybe when I get back out there again.

[Svtfreak]

Ok. Life should be getting back to normal. I started this transition by demodding my 5.0 mustang. The 2.9L whipple will be used on the 33. I ordered my coyote with 6r80 package earlier this week, along with a return fuel system. 4-8 weeks delivery!

[Svtfreak]

Ok, I think life is settled and can get back on the hot rod! Today, I smoothed the glass I filled taillights with and prepped it for body filler. One more hole I want to glass in but I’ll do next time i mix some up. Also settle gaps on passenger door and reinstalled it. Drivers door I have some material roads and finish getting it ready. I started working on the hood hinge and latch but didn’t finish so I’ll put pics of that later.

[BigB]

Welcome to the whip family! Can't wait to see your progress.

[Svtfreak]

Hood hinges and latch today. I must say. We always swapped from a prop rod to shocks on the mustangs. First time I ever saw a hood that needs both! Lol. Definitely an, umm, interesting solution for a neat final operation. Still gotta put the pin receivers in but I gotta get a new hole saw. I might go with something prettier for final build though.

[Svtfreak]

Today just cleaning up some things. Drilled the holes for the top in the back. I put some large washers in when I put the rivnuts so it’ll hold better for my liking. I’ll glass them up a little more when I take the body off and flip it. Filled a little more on the door front and back since I took too much off when I trimmed it lol. Also trimmed the hood so it clears to open. But I hate the way it fits at the corners now at the grill. See photo. I’ll have to figure out some way to fill that hold. Maybe fill it with the side panel (or trim panel if I decide to ditch the sides for good)

Tomorrow morning, I go pick up the motor/trans/eve/harness.

[Svtfreak]

Picked up the motor/trans and controls today from freight yard. (No room on my street to turn a truck around and no way to unload it anyway). The trans isn’t in the pic, it’s in the back of the truck. Gonna be a fun fit to get this coyote and the 6R80 in this thing. Better get my shoehorn and welder ready lol.

[Svtfreak]

Y’all know I picked up the motor and trans pack about 2 weeks ago. Then my wife got the flu. Then I got a sinus infection. Had to work some overtime. Then the flu got me. Then I got another sinus infection lol. So today I finally managed to get it unloaded. The 6R80 is huge but not as much bigger than the 4R70 as I thought it would be. The bell housing size is about same but the body is wider. That’ll make fitment easier than I was expecting. I’m hopeful now. But I have a sawzall, cut off wheel and a welder!

Hopefully I won’t have to work overtime this week and can get the top on it and then take the front off and start getting it in. I want the top and the front back on by March 24th for my church yearly car show. I’ll bring both it and the mk4.

Pic just for documentation.

[Svtfreak]

Got the hard top mounted up today. I think I am going to add two more studs across the front. I also think I’m going to cut out and fill the rivnuts behind with some glass and epoxy to make it more sturdy. I’ll do that later on.

Pulled it outside for some pics and a quick clean up. Tired of messing with body. I’ve only had 24 hours of work since mid September. Hopefully life will slow down and let me get more time soon. I’m in no hurry but it’ll take forever this way.

Some progress pics just since I couldn’t help myself. Still have to set all body gaps and finish fitting but waiting until all weight on the car to do that. After I get the motor and trans in, and maybe running, I’ll get back and finish fitting all the parts to final place.