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Thread: # 1002, SVTFreaks build.

  1. #281
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Looking good
    Steve
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  3. #282
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    Finally got the webbing and staples to finish the seat webbing. Also, after some thought, I didn’t like the idea of using wood screws to hold the back to the frame. They are not known to stay put especially when taken out and put back in a few times. So I went and got some T-Nuts and long machine screws and installed them. Now I can redo as often as needed and I will loctite them on final assembly. While I was at it (no pic) I remade one of the 2x2 braces to fit the frame better for better support.

    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  4. #283
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    Finished up putting the seats in today. Then i loaded up the Lund Supercharger tune. After a serious backfire, it fired right up and idles nicely. She’s a little slow on the initial start but it hoping that works itself out as the ecu learns. Then we went for a ride. Holy beetleguise, the trans is too tight. Pushing through the brakes bad, pushing the car when front end locked up and spinning tires when not. I’ve emailed about setting the trans cal back completely like stock. It was perfect that way since the car is so light. Then I set the hood on it for a little look-see out in the light and a photo to make my mind up on side panels or not.



    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  6. #284
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    Been a bit. For those who haven’t seen my other thread. Having some trans trouble. Had some brake trouble. While the body was off changing master cylinder, I’m doing some things I been wanting to do. The valve body for my trans is at the shop now. He’s checking it out but we are pretty certain is the converter dragging. Once he opens the filter, we should have a better idea. Meantime, today I straightened all the body edges, and trimmed them back to a more appealing width. Also, I drilled and tapped for locating bolts for the door hinges. I’m going to remove them for body installation and removal from now on to hopefully make it a little easier.



    For those that didn’t see, this was in my trans pan on the magnet. After just a couple of miles, literally only like 3 or 4, and a total of about 25 more minutes running in gear on jack stands, neither of us think this should be here. There is also a light dusting of it in the pan before I cleaned it. It is ferrous.

    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  8. #285
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    While I’m waiting on my valve body, I filled the old gas cap place that wasn’t working so well. I decided I want to flush mount it, so I thickened up the area with 5 more layers of mat. It’s kinda cool today so I got a heat lamp going to help kick it off.


    Trans dude had called and I went to get it, but when I got there, he had researched more and found that to properly test the valves, he needed some little tools. He had used12v and blew through them but couldn’t be certain on one (the torque converter one to be exact) that it was working right. Said if I had time, he would test them again with the right tools. Of course i have time. I’d love to find a problem and not have to pull the motor!
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  9. #286
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    Long break. I’m sure I could have found something to do, but decided to take a break and wait on the new converter. Elected to try a yank 3400. But they had some supply issues with the virus and all so it took him a bit to get it built and to me. Then work changed my schedule so had to wait. Started tearing it apart today. I made a plate to bolt to the blower intake so I can lift it evenly. I’m going to pull only the motor. Had a little help at one point. Pics only of plate and help. We’ve all seen motors pulled and installed lol. Hopefully I’ll have time to get it out and back in with new converter tomorrow. Working around all 3 kids and wife being home so not working all day. Taking this time to also spend time with them.


    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  11. #287
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    What's a yank 3400?
    Thanks for some converter update, I've been wondering what happened.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  12. #288
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    Jim, life happens lol. Yank is the brand, 3400 is the advertised stall speed. It’s their power adder series. After talking to a few people, including one with a cobra with a 6r80, who had similar problems, I elected that route.

    Got the motor out, converter swapped and motor back in. Lining it up was actually pretty easy. Went slow, leveled it with the leveler to get the flanges parallel, eased it back, got one bolt started, pulled up the other side to twist it around and it fell into place. I think I’m young to do it that way on final assembly when everything is painted. Just a couple pics for fun

    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  14. #289
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    Got it all back in and buttoned up today. It turned over but wouldn’t start. Then stopped even sending the start signal to the starter. Frustrated. Posted more details over in the coyote forum.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  15. #290
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    After lots of checking plugs and checking +12 and grounds with key on/off and all kinds of checks, and pulling the +12 to the ecu and clearing it out, I elected to try to reload the factory tune to the computer. And the dadgum thing turned over and backfired. So, thinking something was out of whack maybe (a sensor) and knowing it would have a better chance of running with the blower tune, I put it back in. Still backfired. In the process I heard the fuel pump suck a little air so I added some fuel to the tank. She sputtered and cussed but finally fired up and smoothed right on out. Topped off coolant and trans fluid. I can stop it with the brakes with a good leg force on jack stands so next step is to go drive it and hopefully I have this mess done and can regain my motivation and move on!
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  17. #291
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    Alright. I let it sit overnight and fired it up to make sure it’s learning and doing fine. Yep. Fired right up. Even with the KAM’s still learning. So a new first start. Mid next week I’ll get it cleaned out and go for a ride then hopefully get to moving on forward! I’ll prolly put off my goal of wanting to be painting later this year in favor of going ahead and doing. Take upgrades before then to ensure it’s gonna drive just right just in case i need to restall the converter to fine tune it.

    https://i.imgur.com/ReIXOXB.mp4

    https://i.imgur.com/ReIXOXB.mp4
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  19. #292
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    Cool! Sounds great. I love your car. The screw is awesome.
    33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
    Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19
    Titled 2-28-20

    MkI.IV 2643k

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  21. #293
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    Thanks Seth! And yes the open element and lack of sound deadening allows you to hear the screw much better than in my mustang. It’s not as apparent as older, smaller whipples that spun much faster but still adds a nice layer of sound.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  22. #294
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    Got it on her own feet and went for a ride. The 3400 is still just a touch tight, but once warm, everything worked great! No more pushing through the brakes or spinning tires when stopped! Lesson learned. Now to move on! The list of things to do before paint is getting shorter.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  23. #295
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    That is great news!

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  25. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by McGuyver View Post
    That is great news!
    Haha yes it is. Thanks!

    Took it for a second ride and took my 3 year old son with me this time.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  26. #297
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    Started working on a new shifter mount today. Rather than mounted to the trans tunnel, I want to get it lower. So I’m mounting it on the trans and at an angle so the bracket will be lower in the back. I fabricated the front bracket today. This is before I finished welding it. It’s just tacked up right now. After welding it out, it’s pretty solid. But i don’t like the back hanging loose. Enough pull on the shifter and it’s gonna contact the driveshaft. So I took a break while I ponder the rear support. I can kinda go back forward with it, but I don’t like how the angle would be and still might be bendable with enough force. Or I can go down, in front of the flange and weld tabs on the cross member that’s bolted to the trans. That is how I’m leaning but I’m gonna sleep on it before I decide for sure.

    It sure is nice, after months and months of nagging problems, to be able to go out, start it up and putt down the street.

    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  27. #298

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    RoadRacer's Avatar
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    Maybe create a thin driveshaft hoop at that point, and attach to that?
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  28. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svtfreak View Post
    I used an L-bracket from the back right side of the shifter down to the frame.
    I only took one pic from the drivers side, but you can see how I did it.

    DSCN2199b.JPG
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  29. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    I used an L-bracket from the back right side of the shifter down to the frame.
    I only took one pic from the drivers side, but you can see how I did it.

    DSCN2199b.JPG
    Are you worrried about the transmission moving a bit in respect to the frame and eventually fatigue cracking/breaking something?


    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Maybe create a thin driveshaft hoop at that point, and attach to that?
    I worked on it a few minutes yesterday and am envisioning something that is kind of along those lines. Plan now is weld two tabs to the trans mount so it can all move with the trans and bolt two braces to that that go up and support the shifter. It’s a developing work now but I hope to finish it tomorrow.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  30. #301
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    Finished up the shifter mount. Welded two tabs to the trans crossmember and the mount brace bolts to those. It’s rock solid, out of the way of the driveshaft flange and the wiring will be easy to keep out of it also. Then I cut out the tunnel for it. Since this pic, I trimmed the cable stay down and gonna patch up the slit I cut in the tunnel. Now it sits slightly lower, the bracing and cable stay will now not need to be bezeled and trimmed around. Should make it look cleaner for the final assembly.

    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  32. #302
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    So, with the changes to my master cylinder and such, my brake pedal was WAY too high and always been too close to the gas pedal, which is as close as comfortable to the tunnel.

    I started by making a cardboard shape to the rough shape I wanted the new pedal to be. I cut the wilwood one and made some inserts from steel for both side and threaded all the way through to spread the force put evenly and not concentrated on any spot of the aluminum. I thought about building a whole new pedal but elected to try this first.



    Next, I made the pedal extension part and bolted it on.


    Next, I cut it in two places and angled it over to where I wanted it. Figured wgeee I wanted the pad and welded a plate on for it. Drilled and tapped, installed pad. I probably will have to change the end to match whatever pedal I choose later on (when I get and install my final gas pedal also). It is now in a much better place, almost identical to my wife’s fusion (which I measured and used for a target) both height and distance from gas pedal.



    Much better!

    Still have some tweaking to do. One of the bolt hits the tab on the gas pedal. Might have to love it like 1/8”. The other bolt may it the steering column bolt. If so, I’ll redrill and tap in a new spot for that one. Shouldn’t be an issue.

    I’ve put a decent force on it so far with no flexing even, so I think itll be just fine.

    For anyone wondering, I couldn’t just move the gas pedal out because I am 6’2” and want as much leg room as I can get. I maybe should have kept the dual MC’s when I ditched the power brake system but I’ve cut so much of the pedal box moving stuff around. Oh well, it’s gonna be just perfect when done!
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  34. #303
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    I moved the gas pedal over just 1/4” today to make a little more room for travel. And went for a test. I’m able to make front tire smoke pretty easy! Now back to body work. Waiting on a tool to get here to flush mount my gas cap before body goes back on. Then it’ll be onward!
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  36. #304
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    Counter sunk the gas filler today.
    This shows the thickened glass I did awhile back. I cut the main diameter with a 3 7/8” hole saw, not all the way through. Then thinner it like I did awhile back on the cowl access panels. A dremel with a sheet rock depth limiter.


    Filler set in the hole. I’ll have to do some detail work around the edge to clean up the fitting.


    And a side view to see how it sits nearly flush. Maybe up just a ever so slight touch. But looks a lot cleaner than just sitting up on the body. I’ve searched all over and can’t find a cap that I like better than the ffr one. So I’ll probably take it apart and have the visible parts chromed. It’s not pulled all the way down in the photo. Sits a little wonky. I still have a spot or two to take down just a touch more.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  37. #305
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    Got the main body back on today!

    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  39. #306
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    Got the doors back on today drovers is being a little wonky. I’ll have to get on that next week. Ordered the gen 2 hood hinges, Tim Whittaker’s trunk bracing and struts and the pins to set up the select shift for the 6r80 today also. I also need more resin.....

    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  40. #307
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    Thanks for the idea on the shifter mount. I will likely follow your lead and do something similar. I am putting the Coyote and 6R80 into a 1970 Mach 1 and I did not like they idea of mounting the shifter to the tunnel.

    Any ideas as to shielding the shifter assembly from road debris?

    Have you worked out the shifter wiring to the ECM as yet and verified it works? I have the ECM wiring info from Ford Performance, but I have not progressed to the wiring stage on my car as yet.

  41. #308
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    Been piddling lately. Gen 2 hinges came but was wrong ones. Ffr getting right ones to me. Working on seat mounts but more on that later.
    Big update is Tim Whittaker’s trunk lid bars. Got the height set right with bumpers and spacers. He said this was real important. Got it dadgum close.


    These pics taken later on but you can see how the bars set in. I used a single acrew into it on each side to hold in place. I got them close to the skin edge and used silica thickener in the vinylesther resin to helpprevent it from dripping out. I made sure and got the holes all good and full of resin and painted it nice and thick on the trunk and the bar. I also cut across the x to allow it to flex some. The hole is there I’m going to form a plug to bind the skins together better later.



    Next, I put it on. Since mine has a little too much curve to it, it was high in the middle. Had to get creative in how to hold that down while the resin cures.


    got it curing now with heat on it. To help cute and to help the skin relax a little and hopefully take the perfect shape.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  43. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan_C View Post
    Thanks for the idea on the shifter mount. I will likely follow your lead and do something similar. I am putting the Coyote and 6R80 into a 1970 Mach 1 and I did not like they idea of mounting the shifter to the tunnel.

    Any ideas as to shielding the shifter assembly from road debris?

    Have you worked out the shifter wiring to the ECM as yet and verified it works? I have the ECM wiring info from Ford Performance, but I have not progressed to the wiring stage on my car as yet.
    Hey Alan. I haven’t and honestly haven’t thought about that. I’ll take a look at that when I’m back working on that area. I have an off the cuff idea though now that you mention it.

    As far as shifting, I’m told it works and is already in there just need the wires. PBH sells the pins to add to the ecu. I have them just waiting on the right wire (all I had was 12 awg and I want to add it into the ecu body harness so that was just too big. I ordered some 18 awg). It should be a pretty easy thing. I’ll let you know as soon as I do. Hopefully next week if that storm In the gulf dont screw up Monday. If not Monday, it’ll be a little bit. I’ll have to take a break to take care of the wife for a couple weeks. But I do have the pins and the wire coming so it won’t be long before I get to that.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  44. Thanks Alan_C thanked for this post
  45. #310
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    Here we go! Making the select shift of the frpp controls pack for 6r80 work.

    I ordered the pins to add from power by the hour. It comes with the placement instructions. I soldered 3 wires colors to the pins and pigtails provided and shrink wrapped them.

    Next, unplug the body harness from the ecu. This is the one that goes to the black box with relays and fuses. Looks like this from the plug side

    Cut the tape and unwrap. Remove the strain relief cover by pinching the sides and popping out.

    If you look at the back of the plug now, and look in the location 22 and 23, you can see the plastic plugs that have to come out. The plug is marked with the PIN numbers at the ends and you have to count over from there. Using a pick, gently pry the white front off the plug.

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/riqV98O.jpg
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  46. #311
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    Next, use a pick from the front and push the plastic pins out of the back enough to grab them in the 3 positions noted in instructions. Then pull them on out.

    Now, you insert the new pins in the same orientation that all the other pins are. The spring pressure tab should be facing the same way. Push each one in until it clicks. I think it’ll only go in one way. Finished, it looks like this and they should be flush with the front.

    Reinstall the white front cover, the black strain relief in the back, running the new wires in the harness. Tape it all back up. You can then decide how to run the 3 new wires to your switches. I went along the body harness (I will put it in the harness when I pull it all out for paint) and will jump out where it goes into the car and run a new loomed leg to the switches. You can use any switches you want. Console mounted momentary buttons or even some sort of paddle on the wheel.

    I fired it up and tested and seems it’s working great on the jack stands. One day I’ll go try it out in the street.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  47. #312
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    Today, I reinforced the trunk lid some. I didn’t like how much flex there was between the inner and outer skins, really letting that outer move a lot. So I cut 4 holes, sanded the edges to give it some slope to the edges and made some wood plugs. I used resin and glued those plugs in, and reglassed over the tops of the plugs to affix the inner and outer skins together. I patched up the spot in the X that I cut to allow it to relax. While I had it out and was glassing, I used some 1/4” chopped filler to complete filling in Tim Whittaker’s trunk braces.

    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  48. Thanks RoadRacer, shmelty thanked for this post
    Likes JOP33, shmelty liked this post
  49. #313

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    Tim W. recommended something similar. He filled plastic pipe sections with epoxy and then bonded them in place with HSRF or similar. The idea being that everything would have similar coefficient of expansion. I will probably do something similar when I get to that point.
    Keith HR #894

  50. #314
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    I did paint the plugs with resin so moisture stays out. I did a 23 t bucket years ago and I reinforced the whole body with wood strips and slats and didn’t have any trouble. I like the pipe plug idea.

    Actually, Tim W. gave me the idea to do it.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  51. #315
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    Prairieville, Louisiana
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    Today, I built a relay box for controlling my second fuel pump, intercooler pump and low temp cooler fans. I didn’t want relays and all just hanging around so I did this with terminal strips to have 2 powers, one ground, signal from ecu and signal from the Hobbs switch in the Intake. Then there is 3 power outlets. One for the fuel pump, one for the fans and one for the ic pump.

    Here’s the box internals.


    The Hobbs switch in the intake. The wires will get added to existing loom when I pull it apart for paint.


    I had a hard time calibrating the switch to 2.5 psi. It would pressure up way too fast. So I made a resevoir with pipe I had laying around to slow down the rate it pressured up and allow me to get it just right.


    Then it just got too hot so I called it a day.

    I do want to run this by you guys. I don’t like the hood mounts being just rivnuts. Swapping to the gen 2 hinges, I need to move them. I think I’m gonna cut a slot where I have the yellow mark, slide in and resin/glass in a piece of 1/4” plate the shape of the red box. Then fill the holes andthe slot back up so the plate is bonded in well. Then I will drill and tap the plate for the hood mount bolts. Anyone see any problem with that? Should be a whole lot more durable than the ffr way of doing it.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  52. #316
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    When you say "second fuel pump", is this a redundant system or something else that is far above my understanding? I (and another builder) have pondered the idea of a second fuel pump for emergency and if this is your thought, I would be interested in more information on your set-up.

    Thanks
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  53. #317

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    I like the idea of a back-up plate. I planned to do that for the windshield and hardtop, now I'll have to add that to the hood too. Thanks for the extra work . Keith

  54. #318
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    I am thinking the second fuel pump kicks on at 2.5 lbs of boost to ensure sufficient fuel pressure. Bad things happen to turbo and supercharged engines under high boost if the fuel pump(s) can’t keep up and it leans out.

  55. #319
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    McGuyver is mostly right.

    I am running a whipple supercharger and need plenty of fuel. Using one large fuel pump is ok but with the tank fully enclosed, I am a little worried about fuel heating with the return style system. So, rather than run one large pump, which will heat the fuel worse, I elected to run two smaller ones (340 lph each, if you want to call that small lol). That way, most of the time, it won’t be dumping a whole bunch of extra heat into the fuel being pumped in circles, and when needed (at 2.5 psi if boost) the second pump kicks on to make sure it doesn’t get lean. The fuel pressure regulator will react plenty fast enough to keep the pressure pretty close.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  56. #320
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    Prairieville, Louisiana
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    Quote Originally Posted by progmgr1 View Post
    I like the idea of a back-up plate. I planned to do that for the windshield and hardtop, now I'll have to add that to the hood too. Thanks for the extra work . Keith
    I did some plates for the windshield. I haven’t done the work yet, just planning it. If I get home and have time Friday I may start. I really need to get the second fuel pump going on get an intercooler set up so I can finish the initial tuning on this thing but I keep running across more I want to do!
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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