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Here is a picture of my relocation of the license plate.
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Here is a picture of my relocation of the license plate.
Melb-Mike,
Id like to see, but I have already mostly completed the J Kleiner mod. I labored over this for about a year, and I have the solenoid but decided to not use it.
I also added the LED's and with the original bracket was simple.
Now I just have to fit the bottom and put a hole in the plate and frame.
Last edited by mcwho; 05-22-2017 at 02:50 PM. Reason: add pics
Baghdad Bob
Complete Kit Delivered July 2010, serial @ 7287, Whitby Power Brakes, Whitby Tonneau, Power Steering w HEIDTS PS Valve, Hydralic clutch, 15" Wheels, BFG Tires, 331 stroker w Quick Fuel 650, RPM Heads, Air Gap Intake. IRS w 3.27, TKO-600. FFMETAL Firewall Forward, FFMETAL Dropped Battery Box in Trunk, Enlarged Passenger footbox, Breeze Cubby storage, Breeze Seat Brackets, Herbs Door Panels. Ford ruby red 12 coats.
I did not bother to flip the light package. I cut the slot in the plastic lenses then notched the plate enough to just miss contacting the lighting unit. A small strip of door edge guard for insulation & some silicone to reseal the light. About 20 minutes work.
A nibbler works very well in shaping the cut on the plate. No problem seeing "North Carolina"
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15
Gumball said he used a trunk lid from Karl Gess on his Mk III. I heard of another guy who got one from Sankuer Composites.
Are there third party suppliers who can provide an alternative trunk lid for the Mk 4?
Or you can take my approach and get rid of the handle and have a remote trunk release. Trunk release from a 95 mustang, Thanks Rex.
Gary
trunk 2.JPG trunck 1.JPG
Mark IV base kit, 2015 Coyote, Wilwood brakes, IRS-3.55 TruTrac, T56, ABS, PS, Nitto G2, Carbon fiber Dash
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
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Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread
While the idea of an electric or remote cable release sounds interesting, I think I prefer conger's idea of simply inverting the system and putting the handle in the body just below the trunk lid. No problem with dead batteries, broken cables or wire faults of any kind.
Battery is in a drop box in the trunk. Under the plate is a backup keyed cylinder, mechanical override if the battery dies. I had to epoxy a steel bar inside the trunk lid to bolt the trunk release to.
Gary
Mark IV base kit, 2015 Coyote, Wilwood brakes, IRS-3.55 TruTrac, T56, ABS, PS, Nitto G2, Carbon fiber Dash
grluisi150, so you have a standard flat key opening hidden under the plate? Just move the plate out of the way and open the trunk with the key? Sounds like a simple and effective backup plan. Maybe I will have to consider that.
Yes, and I had a locksmith key it with the same as the hood locks.
Gary
Mark IV base kit, 2015 Coyote, Wilwood brakes, IRS-3.55 TruTrac, T56, ABS, PS, Nitto G2, Carbon fiber Dash
For those who are removing or relocating the handle, how are you lifting the trunk lid once it's released? The handles also serves this purpose, and without it, not sure what you'd grab to lift the lid. Once it's finished, the trunk lid is surprisingly heavy, plus it's hinged from the opposite edge. So you have to lift nearly the entire weight when opening. Gas assist struts are possible, but the ones normally used barely hold the lid when open, let alone provide all that much lift assist. It would be possible to use stronger struts, but even in using the standard ones I've found it challenging to get the hinges aligned and the lid closed/flush with the body. The struts pushing against the hinges even while closed doesn't play nice in my experience. I didn't use struts on my last build. Bottom line, very common for changes to affect something else. You almost never can make one change in isolation. The pluses and minuses must be considered.
To the OP, my only comment after following this thread is wait until you get into the build. If this bothers you, I'm wondering how you're going to react to the DS door alignment (or should I say lack of...), the asymmetrical body, radiator mounting, windshield mounting, instrument panel mounting, wiring, side pipe alignment, the list could go on. There are challenges with these build. This isn't one of the big ones IMO.
Last edited by edwardb; 05-25-2017 at 04:40 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Sorry if it offends anyone I can't watch without comment any longer. This is a 20 minute fix and then you can move on to real challenges. Some of you guys are making it much harder than it needs to be. Good luck with whatever route you take.
Jeff
Jeff, I meant no offense when I started this thread, and I take no offense from your comments. Your solution IS simple and quick. I can readily understand why so many builders have chosen to follow your example. In fact, I may end up joining the group, since I have found and saved your thread on the other forum.
I was just hoping that I could find a way to mount the plate without drawing the ire of any LEO's for "altering" it with notches or "hiding" it under the light. And I'm doing this all before I have even ordered my kit, just so I have it in my build plan. Truth is, until I actually have a kit and try to fit a plate, I won't know exactly how I am going to do it. But I do appreciate everyone's help and suggestions.
Thanks.
Last edited by edwardb; 05-25-2017 at 07:48 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Not a problem, I used gas struts. I went with 40 pound struts They lift the trunk 3/4 way by themselves and their very little weight to use the light fixture to raise the trunk lid all the way. The gas struts make it simple to install a switch on for internal trunk lights. 40 pound struts have minimal effect on the lid shape.
Gary
Mark IV base kit, 2015 Coyote, Wilwood brakes, IRS-3.55 TruTrac, T56, ABS, PS, Nitto G2, Carbon fiber Dash
Sounds like you have it sorted out and a good setup. Great. Quick clarification. My point about the gas struts had nothing to do with the lid shape. My experience with the Mk4 style struts that push on the hinges, assuming that's what you have, is they make it hard to align the hinges. Maybe I'm the only one that had this issue. But for #7750, I never was able to get the hinges adjusted to keep the struts from pushing the edge of the trunk lid above the body opening. It's pretty subtle, but something that always bothered me. Enough that I didn't use struts on my last build.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I had the same problem with gas struts. Either they were two week to hold the lid open or so strong that they pushed the lid up and the lines were no longer smooth. With the stronger struts, If I did not lock the trunk, the vibration would work it open and the struts would open the trunk lid. No fun on a busy highway.
Mk4 Roadster, Picked up complete kit 8/22/14. Most FFR options except Wilwood brakes and IRS. First start 11/11/14. Go-kart 3/8/15. 347 Stroker, TKO 500, 3-link/3.27 rear. PA street legal 7/29/15.
You are not alone my friend. I've encountered it on a few cars and in fact just heard from an owner who added them to a car I did for him a couple of years ago---same thing; when the struts are off the lid aligns perfectly but with them on the hinge arm is loaded in such a way that the forward lip goes up. I told him that I'll work on adjusting it at LCS.
Jeff
So. It was subtle. And yet, it always bothered you. You DO get it! That's exactly the way the plate issue has always bothered me.
Again, I apologize for any feathers I have ruffled in starting this thread, but I am just trying to find the best solution to incorporate into my build plan.
I understand that in the original design, the "T" handle was used to lift the trunk lid. But when you use a remote release, you don't really need the struts to be so strong as to lift the lid all the way, or even most of the way, up. All you really need is sufficient lift to get your fingers under the edge of the trunk lid so you can lift it just as if you were using the handle. Seems to me, that kind of strength should not make the set up adjustments that difficult. Anybody have a different solution to getting that initial lift of the lid?
SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF
Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.
Anyone having concerns about using gas struts attached to the MK IV trunk hinges should consider Mike Everson's earlier design trunk strut kit. While more visible attached to the underside of the trunk lid, they don't have the alignment issues the later design (attaching to interior hinges) has caused for some. I have used them on both MK III and MK IV trunk lids (both fit with hidden trunk hinges) without any issues. They also free up storage space in the front trunk area.
Sean
MK 3.5 roadster (MK IV body retrofit to MK III chassis) 396W stroker, 4 bbl mass air EFI, QH (self-tuned), AFR 195CC Renegade, XE274HR, GP 4-1-4 SS headers, 3link, 3.73, 15" Halibrand replicas, SAI mod, bumpers, 2 X roll bars, IČ electronics, PS, hydroboosted brakes: 95 GT front, custom MK VIII calipers/Cobra discs rear, FFR front, Levy rear LCA's, Forte front, VPM rear bars, CF dash, mod comp layout w/Auto Meter Ultra-Lites, Lucas tri-bar headlights, coupe taillights, painted by SRP (again!)
Found that if you just snug them up enough to hold their position you can close the lid then push down on it to get it aligned. The open it just enough to get your hand & a wench on the nuts. Tighten as much as you van then open it further to finish tightening them.
Don't remember how many pounds the struts are but they are just strong enough to hold the lid up in a breeze & will not lift the lid from its closed position.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 05-27-2017 at 08:37 PM.
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15
How did we get from Rear License Plate to trunk hinges?
That said, concerning the gas struts on the MK4 hinge, the whole weight of the trunk lid (and plate and light) is articulated on those 4 little 1/4 inch bolts that attach the hinge to the trunk lid. I don't know how much the fiberglass structure is beefed up and strengthened at that mounting point, but it better be substantial. That's probably why in the closed position, the struts and hinge are pushing and deforming the mounting point. Strengthen that mounting pad, and alignment problem should diminish or go away.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Solution. Put the trunk on a electric solenoid and do away with the trunk handle.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.