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Thread: Russ Thompson Turn Signal wiring

  1. #1

    Russ Thompson Turn Signal wiring

    I am wiring up the Russ Thompson Turn Signal and using the momentary stalk button to activate hi beam/low beam & Flash to pass with a Ron Francis harness.
    I've looked through all of the diagrams provided and others I have found, but still unsure. Especially when it comes to what wires are feeding each relay.
    Would appreciate confirmation from you guys that I am doing this right:

    Feed:
    Connect the RF gray TURN FLASHER FD wire to the Russ Thompson common larger Black wire

    Left Turn:
    Connect the RF green/yellow/green (LEFT FRONT TURN/LEFT REAR TURN/LEFT DASH IND LIGHT) bundle to the Russ Thompson Black-white wire

    Right Turn:
    Connect the RF blue/white/blue (RIGHT FRONT TURN/RIGHT REAR TURN/RIGHT DASH IND LIGHT) bundle to the Russ Thompson Black-green wire



    Flasher on/off toggle switch:
    Connect the RF pink HAZARD FLASHER wire to one spade of the switch
    Add diodes to each then join and connect the RF blue RIGHT FRT TURN and green LEFT FRT TURN wires to the other spade of the switch


    VW Relay:
    Split out and connect the RF brown HI BEAM IND wire to 56a
    Connect the RF red LOW BEAM wire to 56b
    Connect the RF blue HDLT SW>DIM SW to both 56 and 30
    Run a new wire from S to a diode, merge with a wire from 85 of Bosch relay and connect to one of the Russ Thompson smaller black wires



    Bosch Relay (i am also using a relay plug):
    Connect the other split of the RF brown HI BEAM IND wire to 30
    Merge a wire with the one coming from S of the VW relay and connect to one of the Russ Thompson smaller black wires
    Connect RF brown HIGH BEAM wire to both 86 and 87
    87a is not used



    Russ Thompson:
    Ground the other small black wire
    Last edited by Jdav; 05-21-2017 at 10:12 AM.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
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  2. #2
    Senior Member NICK C's Avatar
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    Sounds good to me. I'm in the process myself and am trying to get confident in the procedure. Nick

  3. #3
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    I am going to lurk as I am doing the same right now and am definitely not sure what I am doing!
    5.0 HO from a '93 Mustang, SVE heads, Trickflow stage 1 cam, Trickflow Street Burner intake manifold, T-5 w/mid shift, IRS
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  4. #4
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    The RT turn signal wiring can be daunting at first. In fact I wired it once to get it working, then re-wired it to clean it up. Your assumptions are correct. If your wiring a flash to pass and using the FFR supplied headlight switch, use this schematic


    The verbiage on the bottom of the schematic (can't see it in this image) is accurate and addresses your questions exactly.

    I ended up wiring the entire circuit using distribution blocks depicted and just Velcro'd them to the back of the firewall (if you have room). I can't recall exactly what positions the headlight switch needs to be in to operate the flash to pass vs. high beam but the RF harness makes it real easy to wire it. There is a plug that connects from the FR harness to the back of the switch.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by RickP View Post
    The RT turn signal wiring can be daunting at first. In fact I wired it once to get it working, then re-wired it to clean it up. Your assumptions are correct. If your wiring a flash to pass and using the FFR supplied headlight switch, use this schematic


    The verbiage on the bottom of the schematic (can't see it in this image) is accurate and addresses your questions exactly.

    I ended up wiring the entire circuit using distribution blocks depicted and just Velcro'd them to the back of the firewall (if you have room). I can't recall exactly what positions the headlight switch needs to be in to operate the flash to pass vs. high beam but the RF harness makes it real easy to wire it. There is a plug that connects from the FR harness to the back of the switch.
    Thanks RickP
    I saw that one, but didn't really understand how those distribution blocks were set up. Are the inputs directly across from each other connected but the ones above and below isolated?

    Any strong reason against just using butt connections with heat shrink?
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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    I saw that one, but didn't really understand how those distribution blocks were set up. Are the inputs directly across from each other connected but the ones above and below isolated?
    Yes.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    Any strong reason against just using butt connections with heat shrink?
    Great debate going on in another thread currently regarding connectors etc. Everyone has an opinion on what's best.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-advice-please

    For me personally, I did not use any type of butt connector. I soldered those type of connections and heat shrinked them. Just my own personal preference. Del City is a great source (EdwardB turned me on to this source quite some time ago) for any type of electrical component such as heat shrink, terminals, terminal blocks, distribution blocks etc.

    And yes, to echo EdwardB's response to your other question on the terminal block. Whatever you feed going in one side, its the same going out on the other side. The terminals are connected from side to side underneath. With a simple jumper from terminal to another terminal (set), you eliminate the need to splice a wire. If you took the terminal (distribution) blocks out of the schematic RT provides, you would end up splicing a lot of wires together. Not a good way to go and over complicates an already complicated circuit.

    Last, regarding jumpers. I made my own but they do make little metal jumpers. I didn't see any on Del City website specifically for their terminal blocks, but this is what I'm talking about. .

    https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...244-ND/2424514

    Maybe Paul has a better source?

  8. #8
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    I have that diagram, but I can't figure out how the supplied FFR headlight switch plays into it.
    5.0 HO from a '93 Mustang, SVE heads, Trickflow stage 1 cam, Trickflow Street Burner intake manifold, T-5 w/mid shift, IRS
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  9. #9
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    Wait, I think I answered my question. It is left alone, right?
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    Delivery 9-10-16, First Start 12-28-16, First Go-Kart 2-18-17
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  10. #10
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    Leave the headlight seitch alone. As with most British cars I wired the momentary switch through a relay to work the horns. This also cleans up the dash a bit. Some have also used it as a flash to pass and wired it through a relay in conjunction to the high beam switch. As with all the functions of the turn signal kit you need to run it through a realay as the contacts with in it can't handle the current draw of what they are activating.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by lahrs37 View Post
    Wait, I think I answered my question. It is left alone, right?
    Laurence, are you using the Ron Francis harness? If you are, Ron provides a plug for it.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by lahrs37 View Post
    I have that diagram, but I can't figure out how the supplied FFR headlight switch plays into it.
    Quote Originally Posted by lahrs37 View Post
    Wait, I think I answered my question. It is left alone, right?
    I assume you're referring to the diagram in post #4 and #5. You and others are correct. The headlight switch is used as is with the connector provided in the RF harness. Not affected by the referenced diagram.

    All the options get a little confusing. But in the end it's maybe not as complicated as it seems. The RT turn signal assembly has two simple switches. One SPDT switch for the turn signals. Replaces the dash mounted SPDT switch provided in the kit. Wired like the RF schematic shows, except now you have a steering column mounted and self cancelling turn signal function. If wired along with the kit provided two indicators and DPST hazard switch exactly like the RF schematic shows, everything works as advertised.

    The RT assembly also has a momentary pushbutton switch in the end of the turn signal stalk. This can be used for whatever you want. Many use it for the horn as already mentioned. Since the RF harness already has a relay for the horn, it's as simple as attaching the two RF dash horn wires to the momentary switch and you're done.

    Others want it to be for headlight high/low beam switching, replacing a dash mounted switch as shown in the RF schematic. This is where it gets more complicated because now a latching relay is required. And if a flash to pass function is desired, gets even more complicated with another relay. Then you end up with a solution like the diagram shows. There are several variations, but in the end are similar with how they use the relays.
    Last edited by edwardb; 05-29-2017 at 06:03 AM.
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  13. #13
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickP View Post
    Laurence, are you using the Ron Francis harness? If you are, Ron provides a plug for it.
    Yes I am and I see it now, thanks.
    5.0 HO from a '93 Mustang, SVE heads, Trickflow stage 1 cam, Trickflow Street Burner intake manifold, T-5 w/mid shift, IRS
    Delivery 9-10-16, First Start 12-28-16, First Go-Kart 2-18-17
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  14. #14
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I assume you're referring to the diagram in post #4 and #5. You and others are correct. The headlight switch is used as is with the connector provided in the RF harness. Not affected by the referenced diagram.

    All the options get a little confusing. But in the end it's maybe not as complicated as it seems. The RT turn signal assembly has two rather simple switches. One SPDT switch for the turn signals. Replaces the dash mounted SPDT switch provided in the kit. Wired just like the RF diagram shows, except now you have a steering column mounted and self cancelling turn signal function. If wired along with the kit provided two indicators and DPST hazard switch exactly like the RF schematic shows, everything works as advertised.

    The RT assembly also has a momentary pushbutton switch in the end of the turn signal stalk. This can be used for whatever you want. Many use it for the horn as already mentioned. Since the RF harness already has a relay for the horn, it's as simple as attaching the two RF dash horn wires to the momentary switch and you're done.

    Others want it to be for headlight high/low beam switching, replacing a dash mounted switch as shown in the RF diagram. This is where it gets a little more complicated because now a relay is required. And if a flash to pass function is desired, gets even a little more complicated. Then you end up with a solution like the diagram shows. There are several variations, but in the end are similar with how they use the relays.
    In hindsight I might have simply made the button on the stalk the horn, but I have already finished the dash and included the horn button. I have the RF harness and will rely on the referenced diagram. I have already snagged the relays and diodes referenced. The main thing I am now running into is that the wires coming from RT assembly seem to be totally different colors. I.e. I have 2 smaller red wires coming from the assembly that don't seem to be referenced in that diagram.
    5.0 HO from a '93 Mustang, SVE heads, Trickflow stage 1 cam, Trickflow Street Burner intake manifold, T-5 w/mid shift, IRS
    Delivery 9-10-16, First Start 12-28-16, First Go-Kart 2-18-17
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  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by lahrs37 View Post
    In hindsight I might have simply made the button on the stalk the horn, but I have already finished the dash and included the horn button. I have the RF harness and will rely on the referenced diagram. I have already snagged the relays and diodes referenced. The main thing I am now running into is that the wires coming from RT assembly seem to be totally different colors. I.e. I have 2 smaller red wires coming from the assembly that don't seem to be referenced in that diagram.
    Don't get hung up on the colors of the wires in the RT assembly. There should be only five wires and they're easy to identify with a continuity tester or VOM. Two wires that are normally open and closed when the momentary switch is pushed. Find those first. As I recall, they're a smaller gauge than the others. The three remaining will be for the turn signals. One of them will be common. The other two will have continuity to the common wire when the turn signal is activated. One in the left turn position. One in the right turn position.
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  16. #16
    Not sure if this will help or hurt, but here's how I wired it on mine:

    I had bought the Russ Thompson turn signal system and at the end of the turn signal is a small button (see "PUSH" in diagram below). Like many others I wanted to use this for the high beam switch. Also this button can be used as a "flash to pass" button. With that the headlight switch doesn't need to be on to flash them.
    Back to the documents and the forum to figure out how to wire this thing up. Also shown is that I wired up the fog lights to the low beam output signal. The thought is that when you put on the high beams, the fog lights will shut off. For the Relay Switch I used a Standard LR-35. Here's what I ended up with:


    For the hazard switch, I used the ON-ON double pole switch from the kit. For the turn signal, I was using the Russ Thompson turn signal. It took a bunch of research to figure out how I wanted to connect it up. Eventually I settled upon the following schematic:


    Normally, the hazard switch will be in the down position (connecting left to middle in the above picture), which connects the turn signal path. The middle connection of the hazard switch goes to the dash LED and front/rear lights for each side. Then the turn signal will function.

    With the hazard switch in the up position (connecting right to middle in the above picture), the turn signal will be bypassed and since the hazard flasher connects to both the left and the right side of the switch, both sides will flash.

    -Matt

  17. #17
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Don't get hung up on the colors of the wires in the RT assembly. There should be only five wires and they're easy to identify with a continuity tester or VOM. Two wires that are normally open and closed when the momentary switch is pushed. Find those first. As I recall, they're a smaller gauge than the others. The three remaining will be for the turn signals. One of them will be common. The other two will have continuity to the common wire when the turn signal is activated. One in the left turn position. One in the right turn position.
    Oh that is super helpful. Thanks!
    5.0 HO from a '93 Mustang, SVE heads, Trickflow stage 1 cam, Trickflow Street Burner intake manifold, T-5 w/mid shift, IRS
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  18. #18
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtwarog View Post
    Not sure if this will help or hurt, but here's how I wired it on mine:

    I had bought the Russ Thompson turn signal system and at the end of the turn signal is a small button (see "PUSH" in diagram below). Like many others I wanted to use this for the high beam switch. Also this button can be used as a "flash to pass" button. With that the headlight switch doesn't need to be on to flash them.
    Back to the documents and the forum to figure out how to wire this thing up. Also shown is that I wired up the fog lights to the low beam output signal. The thought is that when you put on the high beams, the fog lights will shut off. For the Relay Switch I used a Standard LR-35. Here's what I ended up with:


    For the hazard switch, I used the ON-ON double pole switch from the kit. For the turn signal, I was using the Russ Thompson turn signal. It took a bunch of research to figure out how I wanted to connect it up. Eventually I settled upon the following schematic:


    Normally, the hazard switch will be in the down position (connecting left to middle in the above picture), which connects the turn signal path. The middle connection of the hazard switch goes to the dash LED and front/rear lights for each side. Then the turn signal will function.

    With the hazard switch in the up position (connecting right to middle in the above picture), the turn signal will be bypassed and since the hazard flasher connects to both the left and the right side of the switch, both sides will flash.

    -Matt
    Cool! That is really helpful too! I will head back into the garage ready to conquer!
    5.0 HO from a '93 Mustang, SVE heads, Trickflow stage 1 cam, Trickflow Street Burner intake manifold, T-5 w/mid shift, IRS
    Delivery 9-10-16, First Start 12-28-16, First Go-Kart 2-18-17
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  19. #19
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    Well I managed to make it so only the brights work and the left turn signal is stuck on. Interestingly the right signal works as it is supposed to. No running lights at all and the hazards don't operate. I flipped the diodes just in case I installed them backwards, and rechecked the wires coming from the RT mechanism. Finally I just had to walk away. Hopefully when I come back with fresh eyes I will see something dumb and obvious!
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  20. #20
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    What wire is "To headlight switch feed 2" in the RT diagram? There doesn't seem to be a corresponding wire on the RF side.
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  21. #21
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    Quick update (should I start a new thread?) I went to start troubleshooting today and noticed the headlights no longer came on at all. Then I noticed the VW relay was smoking. I quickly disconnected it and burned the #$_& out of my fingers in the process. I checked​ my fuses and I have blown several. Obviously I am not fit to be doing this. I am going to go get new fuses and see how I can simplify this circuit. I really don't need flash to pass - that can just be a dead button. Probably better than setting my car on fire...
    Last edited by lahrs37; 05-30-2017 at 04:06 PM.
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  22. #22
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    You can do this. But remember that blown fuses indicate a problem and are not a problem themselves. Cliche advice, but it's good advice: one circuit at a time, figure out what's going wrong that caused the fuse to blow. Make one change & test it before making any other changes. When you're tired of chasing electrons, work on something else. It's not like you don't have other stuff you can do!


    John
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  23. #23
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    You can do this. But remember that blown fuses indicate a problem and are not a problem themselves. Cliche advice, but it's good advice: one circuit at a time, figure out what's going wrong that caused the fuse to blow. Make one change & test it before making any other changes. When you're tired of chasing electrons, work on something else. It's not like you don't have other stuff you can do!


    John
    That is great advice John. I traced the problem to the unused Hot Rod section of the RF harness. I had clipped it and wrapped it, but hadn't isolated the individual wires. Progress!
    5.0 HO from a '93 Mustang, SVE heads, Trickflow stage 1 cam, Trickflow Street Burner intake manifold, T-5 w/mid shift, IRS
    Delivery 9-10-16, First Start 12-28-16, First Go-Kart 2-18-17
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  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by lahrs37 View Post
    What wire is "To headlight switch feed 2" in the RT diagram? There doesn't seem to be a corresponding wire on the RF side.
    Lawrence, did you ever confirm what wire this was?
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  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by lahrs37 View Post
    What wire is "To headlight switch feed 2" in the RT diagram? There doesn't seem to be a corresponding wire on the RF side.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    Lawrence, did you ever confirm what wire this was?
    You won't find that wire in the RF harness. You need to add it. The added jumper wire provides the "always on" power for the flash to pass function.
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  26. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    You won't find that wire in the RF harness. You need to add it. The added jumper wire provides the "always on" power for the flash to pass function.
    Where do you jump it from?
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  27. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    Where do you jump it from?
    It's shown on the wiring diagram first shown in post #4. "Headlight switch 2" is a terminal on the headlight switch. Added jumper goes from there to the indicated terminal block on the wiring diagram.
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  28. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    It's shown on the wiring diagram first shown in post #4. "Headlight switch 2" is a terminal on the headlight switch. Added jumper goes from there to the indicated terminal block on the wiring diagram.
    So somewhere on here?


    And then I think I have everything else run according to the diagram in post 4, but I have a LEFT FRONT TURN and RIGHT FRONT TURN wire (solo, not a part of the 3 wire bundle) that I'm not sure where they go
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  29. #29
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    Lawrence, did you ever confirm what wire this was?
    edwardb explained it perfectly. I ended up simplifying my set up and got rid of the whole flash to pass thing. The dimmer switch ends up doing the same thing, so I mounted that close to the wheel. I would chime in about the turn signal wires and the hazard, but I ended up making a few mistakes and redoing a few things. I don't think I used the turn signal wires. Not sure about the extra hazard wire...
    5.0 HO from a '93 Mustang, SVE heads, Trickflow stage 1 cam, Trickflow Street Burner intake manifold, T-5 w/mid shift, IRS
    Delivery 9-10-16, First Start 12-28-16, First Go-Kart 2-18-17
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  30. #30
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Jdav, Lahr37, On the light harness plug, both red wires are hot with ignition off (master switch on). You can use either one to feed the Bosch relay, terminals 86 & 87, but make sure you use the same wire size as the feed to the switch...... You are using this feed to flash the lights.

    The solo wires, left and right turn go to the dash (speedo) turn-indicator lights. You do not need diodes on the turn indicator lights (per the RT instructions) because each light in an individual (isolated) light bulb. The double turn signal wires and the double pink hazard flasher wires go to the hazard flasher switch (center connectors). Because the switch is a double pole, single throw, again, you do not need diodes. If you connect the turn wires to the bottom terminals of the switch, the hazard lights will work when the switch is flipped up.

    NOTE: The diode between the VW and Bosch relays is needed. I wired per RT instructions (less four diodes) and everything works, including flash to pass. If you have questions, email me.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-05-2017 at 01:11 AM.
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  31. #31
    Ducky2009 covered it. You just need an added hot wire from the headlight circuit to power the relay and light them when the headlight switch is off. There shouldn't be any extra wires. Everything is accounted for in the RF schematic plus the referenced schematic in post #4. As I recall, the indicator light wires are specifically marked as such.

    Quote Originally Posted by lahrs37 View Post
    edwardb explained it perfectly. I ended up simplifying my set up and got rid of the whole flash to pass thing. The dimmer switch ends up doing the same thing, so I mounted that close to the wheel.
    Not sure I understand this. Flash to pass means pushing the high beam switch with the lights off flashes the high beams on/off. A particularly annoying thing I don't appreciate when people do it to me BTW. Not the same thing as switching back and forth between low and high beam when the lights are already on.
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  32. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Ducky2009 covered it. You just need an added hot wire from the headlight circuit to power the relay and light them when the headlight switch is off. There shouldn't be any extra wires. Everything is accounted for in the RF schematic plus the referenced schematic in post #4. As I recall, the indicator light wires are specifically marked as such.
    OK, so cut the additional hot (red) wire from the headlight switch and split it into 2 (one remaining run to wherever it is run to in the harness and the second, new one to my terminal block)?

    Re: extra wires, from the RF harness, I have these bundles of wires that are for right front turn/right rear turn/right turn indicator (BLUE/WHITE/BLUE) and left front turn/left rear turn/left turn indicator (GREEN/YELLOW/GREEN) that i was gong to connect to the terminal block as shown.


    But then I also have a separate single wire for Left Front Turn and Right Front Turn that I cant find in the schematic
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  33. #33
    Yes to the first part. That works. Not sure I can explain about the extra wires. Any chance these are are from the Hot Rod harness? That's an extra leg that's also in the harness that can be left as is or many of us just prune it off.
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  34. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Yes to the first part. That works. Not sure I can explain about the extra wires. Any chance these are are from the Hot Rod harness? That's an extra leg that's also in the harness that can be left as is or many of us just prune it off.
    I pruned off the leg that was labeled "Hot Rod", these are in the leg that all of the other lighting wiring is in. I guess I'll just cap them and wire tie them out of the way.

    Thanks for all of your help on this. I'm sure I sound like an idiot at times, but I'd rather get confirmation from the experts and do it right the first time than guess and have to re-work.
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  35. #35
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    OK, so cut the additional hot (red) wire from the headlight switch and split it into 2 (one remaining run to wherever it is run to in the harness and the second, new one to my terminal block)?
    Joel, I didn't "cut" the red wire. I removed the wire from the harness plug (use a small screw driver to release from harness plug) and skinned the insulation about an inch back, then used a connector end (cutting the end off) and pried it open a little and slipped over the skinned wire. After adding the extra wire, I crimped the extra wire to the bare wire and soldered. Because the wire is not in the harness plug you can slide shrink tubing over and heat shrink to seal it up. Re-install is correct place. Take care to take a pic, there are a few empty spots in the plug... made sure you put it back in the correct place.

    Turn signals: The multi wires and the single wire is connected in the harness. You can run the multi wires to the RT turn signal switch and the single wire to the hazard switch, or vise-versa, which ever gives you the ability to reach each switch (wire length). The pink hazard wire goes to the hazard switch. The gray wire is the common for the RT turn signals. FYI... I unwrapped the tape/plastic wire covers and separated the single wires and gray wire, taped and covered with the plastic cover, then they were long enough to reach the turn signal switch.
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  36. #36
    Senior Member lahrs37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Ducky2009 covered it. You just need an added hot wire from the headlight circuit to power the relay and light them when the headlight switch is off. There shouldn't be any extra wires. Everything is accounted for in the RF schematic plus the referenced schematic in post #4. As I recall, the indicator light wires are specifically marked as such.



    Not sure I understand this. Flash to pass means pushing the high beam switch with the lights off flashes the high beams on/off. A particularly annoying thing I don't appreciate when people do it to me BTW. Not the same thing as switching back and forth between low and high beam when the lights are already on.
    Yes, you are totally correct! In Philly, because the roads are so little there are many times on "2 way roads" that only one person can fit so we flash our lights to indicate the other person goes. Because of the whole no-roof thing I can simply wave people on, so that isn't an issue.
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  37. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by Not sure I understand this. Flash to pass means pushing the high beam switch with the [U
    lights off[/U] flashes the high beams on/off.
    Flash to pass is a helpful feature in my neck of the woods to warn on-coming drivers of deer or antelope near the road. In Germany when driving on the autobahn, if you see lights flashing in your rearview mirror, you better get over to the right lane or risk being run over by someone driving much faster than you.

    A driver's favorite sign:
    autobahn-end-of-restrictions-sign.jpg
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  38. #38
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Jdav, Lahr37, The solo wires, left and right turn go to the dash (speedo) turn-indicator lights....
    I miss spoke here. The turn indicator (dash indicator lights) are marked as such. The single and multi wires go to the RT turn signal switch and hazard switch as described before.
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  39. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    I miss spoke here. The turn indicator (dash indicator lights) are marked as such. The single and multi wires go to the RT turn signal switch and hazard switch as described before.
    So even though the single wires are marked as FRT, they actually connect to the rear as well?
    Meaning I could connect the single wires to my terminal instead of making the run highlighted in red in the attached?
    2014-02-17RTschematic_zps9e735dd2[1].jpg
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  40. #40
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    So even though the single wires are marked as FRT, they actually connect to the rear as well?
    Meaning I could connect the single wires to my terminal instead of making the run highlighted in red in the attached?
    2014-02-17RTschematic_zps9e735dd2[1].jpg
    Yes. The single blue wire (FRT) is one-in-the-same of the blue wires in the multi wire connection. The attached wiring schematics from RT is easier to understand IMO. If you unwrap the turn signal harness wires it will be much easier to see/understand.
    ALSO: Because the turn indicator lights are two separate bulbs (instead of one in the RT instructions) you don't need diodes (2) on the indicator lights. Also, because the hazard switch is a single throw, double pole switch (isolating each side of the switch) you don't need diodes (2) for the hazard switch. Only one diode between the VW and Bosch relays is needed.

    RT Turn Signal Wiring.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-06-2017 at 08:40 AM.
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