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Thread: mach'er Mk4 #9146 Roadster Build (Complete Kit, 363W, TKO, IRS)

  1. #81
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    Thanks Yama-Bro. And to answer your question... It's in the works. I'm currently building an SG looking guitar that will be metallic blue with white stripes (paint scheme similar to a Gibson SG GT in Daytona Blue). It'll match the amp well enough, just not exactly the same blue. The guitar's body work is done, and I'm waiting for temps warm enough to apply finish in my garage. Then electrics, set-up, and first drive.

    Too many projects. Temperature allowing, the car takes precedence over all of them.
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

  2. #82
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    Fuel Lines

    The weather warmed up, and I got a little bit of work done on the car. I installed the fuel lines from the tank to the engine compartment, although I haven't completely fastened with clamps everywhere yet.

    I used AN fittings, with a mixture of braided lines and annealed stainless hardline.

    Tank outlet EFI to AN fitting with braided line to the in-line fuel filter. In this picture, you can see that I just capped off the return line (since I'm not using it):


    100 Micron fuel filter, with braided lines for inlet and outlet. In this picture, you can see where I chose to mount it (using a roll bar light clamp). You can also see where my brake line adaptor brackets are mounted for the rear.


    Here is the outlet from the filter, running down the frame member to below the passenger side floor panel, where it runs along the passenger side frame rail as a 3/8" hard line:


    View from the underside, of the hardline running along the frame rail:


    I went just forward of the 4" cross member, bending up and around the frame rail, and then back down - where it will go below the front mounted battery tray:


    From there, it runs along the lower front of the 4" cross member, terminating with a transition back to braided line which will go to the engine's mechanical fuel pump on the front driver's side of the engine (I need to order a shorter hose than the one I currently have for that location).

    And, it can be seen in that third picture, but I did install a couple more cockpit panels. I'm really liking this look, and am thinking more and more about the pros and cons of leaving it uncovered:





    I plan to finalize the fuel lines by finishing up the insulated clips that hold it in place. Then, on to the brake lines. Hopefully, I'll start putting in the brake lines this coming weekend.

    As always, let me know if you see something that looks like I may be creating problems for myself.

    Thanks!
    --Curt
    Last edited by mach'er; 01-29-2018 at 10:22 AM.
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

  3. #83
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    I think the red panels look pretty cool! Different and I like it. Good job.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  4. #84
    Straversi's Avatar
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    If you are going to keep those red panels exposed I'd get an adhesive plastic covering and then some cardboard over them right away. Mine are covered with Lizard skin now, and soon carpet but I've noticed I've abused those panels pretty good in the past couple of months. Yours look sharp.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  5. #85
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    Curt-

    Progress is looking good. I like the red panels too. You can't go "full badger," and not have red in the build!

    I bet you are looking forward to some warm weather. Spring is on the way, or so I am told. I look forward to seeing more of your work soon!

    Regards,

    Steve

  6. #86
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    After a 5 year hiatus (holy crap, time sure flies), I've just cleared out the garage, cleaned off the work bench, and am going to guess that I'll spend at least this weekend just figuring out what the heck I was doing, and where I was in the process. After a quick once over, it looked like my next step is figuring out how and where to mount the CNC triple reservoir I had staged on my roller cart all that time, and then on to the hard brake lines. But, I'll probably retrace all my steps up to that point before I get started back up.

    Time to get back to work. And I have a feeling that I'll be referencing the forums just about every step of the way - or at least as I get back up to speed on this build. Maybe I should read through my own build thread as a Step 1. Lol, but, seriously, I probably should.

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  8. #87
    Senior Member Blitzboy54's Avatar
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    Welcome Back!
    MK4 #10008 - Ordered 10/06/20, Delivered 03/03/21, First Start 7/22/21, First Go Kart 7/24/21
    Paint by Metal Morphous 5/14/22, Legally registered 6/8/22, Graduated 7/20/22
    Build Thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...been-delivered
    Complete Kit, Ford 306, Sniper/Dual Sync, T5, Hydraulic clutch

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  10. #88
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    Note to others: Don't abandon your project for years. I swear, it took a solid week+ just to figure out where I was, what I was doing, and finding the parts which were involved in the immediate step where I stopped.

    The little clips that capture the brake line adaptor (hard line to the flex line at each wheel)? Fronts were done, but the rears were waiting for me to resume the project. So, I needed two of them. Yeah, no idea where those went - but at least they are inexpensive.

    The drivers side inner foot box panel? It took me a second day to realize I wasn't looking for a single piece of sheet metal. Thanks to pictures here, I now know it's two pieces, and my guess is they're in the stack just waiting for me to find them.

    Anyway, I'm back in the swing. Over the past couple of weeks, I've inventoried and sorted, checked and arranged, and situated for regular progress. Including mounting a smart TV out in the garage. So, that's nice. But, what about the build? Yeah, got on that as well.

    First, I mounted the brake & clutch fluid reservoirs. This is the first time I've used rivnuts, so that was fairly cool too. Any time a new tool or process is involved, it's like a new mountain has been conquered.
    Fluid Reservoirs.jpg

    Next, with that done, I tackled the hard brake lines. Bending up the brake lines was a challenge for me. But, I got there. I guess, like everything else, don't expect to be an expert without some experience.
    Front brake lines.jpgRear brake lines1.jpgRear brake lines2.jpg

    I did do some sheet metal, the driver's footbox floor and driver's floor... But, then ran into my issue with the inside footbox mentioned above. Once I get this batch of aluminum panels in, I'll get a photo or two up. But, I plan on leaving the outer footbox panel off, until after go-karting a few times - in case I need easy access for adjustments or whatever (a tip I read here, long ago).

    Anyway, I'm back on the horse, and the ride has resumed. Thanks all.
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

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  12. #89
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    This is not a build update, really. Though I will leave this here...
    16D364C1-D340-461D-BBDA-1D81606A2B93.jpg

    So, this post is me, sitting at my younger daughter's softball game, surfing the forums and finding too many good ideas and things to add. Side pipe heat shields, fan shroud and associated hardware (and the shroud would of course need powder coating), better fitting directional indicators, and on and on. Damn. You all are so good at giving me ideas on things to try to add to my budget.

    I'll have to figure out how to limit this project creep. But, truthfully, I'm not sure I will. Perhaps I'll be hitting the Breeze website when I get home from this game, and then giving the powder coater guy a call in a week or so when it shows up.

    But for now, back to the game, and more temporary wiring harness routing tonight.
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

  13. #90
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    Actual Update - Back At It

    Alright, enough with the getting back up to speed and figuring out where I was, and all of that. I'm back and I'm building.

    I've installed all my hard brake lines, and am ready to bleed my brakes - as soon as Summit delivers the brake fluid that I ordered. I went with Wilwood EXP 600 Plus (DOT 4) fluid, and in addition to the Summit order, I also ordered a fitting to go on the bleeder screw, as I wasn't all that thrilled with the fit of the hose off my bleeder bottle. So, that job is now a Memorial Day weekend task. My biggest concern about that job is the potential for leaks.

    While I'm waiting for my orders to come in, I went ahead with the wiring harness. I've got the front harness zip tied out to where each branch terminates, and the back harness is zip tied through the trans tunnel, but then I've done actual harness retention in the rear. Here's a couple pictures of how I routed my rear harness, and what I used for harness retention.
    RearHarness1_withFinger.jpg RearHarness2.jpg

    I didn't find the manual to be clear on how/where to route the license plate light's wires. So, that's still dangling, unrestrained. Question on that small harness - Does anyone have a good description of how that gets routed from the under trunk floor area around to the arched hoop, and which surfaces to use for mounting to avoid interference?

    Up next back there is all the trunk aluminum panels. I've got my family queued up to help me push the chassis dolly out into the driveway, and I'm going to drain any *whatever* that may currently be in the diff, and then fill with 4 oz of friction modifier, and the appropriate amount of diff fluid. I want to get that done before putting the trunk floor in - as access from the top for the diff will make that so much easier. I'm going to have them help me push it out to the driveway to avoid stinking up the garage, and we'll push it back in after the plug is reinstalled and any spillage is wiped up. That stuff is absolutely rancid. Then - aluminum panels getting installed!

    I do have a question on the trunk floor... For the access panels for the fuel level sender and the pick-up tube areas, do people generally just rivet those panels in place; or, is rivnuts a better option. I'd think rivnuts would be better - but then it wouldn't be flush. Thoughts on this one?

    I also have moved up front, and have started the install of the Breeze Front Battery kit. Roughing it in, I decided I didn't like how it went together with my hard fuel line's routing. It didn't interfere, but it did seem like a future service nightmare. So, I tore my fuel line out, and have ordered a braided hose that will replace the current hard line, and can be routed to play better with the battery tray. Here's the hard line, taken out, and getting measured for replacement, and the battery tray cleco'd in.
    FrontBattery.jpg FuelLineTakeoff.jpg

    Lastly, I have a brass coolant expansion tank/reservoir thing that attaches directly to the T-Stat outlet on the intake manifold, which I really wanted to use. But for the life of me I'm not finding alternator and PowerSteering brackets that allow me to run it (alternator blocks where it would go). If anyone has suggestions on FEAD mounting bracketry that's simple and easy (even if it means having to change my water pump), please speak up. As I get closer to installing my engine, I'll probably post this as a stand-alone thread if I'm still stuck. I can't believe this is something that's hard. Here's what I've got now, which I'm not a big fan of. I suppose I could just rotate the alternator, and have it hanging below this current mounting bracket - but I just don't really even like this billet looking stuff.
    FEAD_Blocking_CoolantTank.jpg

    So, in addition to sharing my progress, there's three questions in this update:
    1 - License Plate Wiring & how to route it around?
    2 - Rivets or rivnuts for the access panels on the trunk floor?
    3 - FEAD bracket sourcing for a small block Ford alternator and power steering?

    I might be back in the swing of getting out in the garage, but I'm not back in the swing of doing a build thread. So, bear with me while I recalibrate what I put on here, and how much I share.

    Thanks all! Have a great week.
    Curt
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

  14. #91
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    There's been a bit of activity in the past 1.5 weeks. I did get the chassis dolly pushed out into the driveway, and we drained the *whatever* out of the diff - and then refilled with the specified Ford friction modifier and diff lube. Turns out that the differential was likely shipped with the right stuff already in there. I didn't know. But now I absolutely know what's in there - so I'm perfectly fine with doing the work and buying the fluids. Here's my baby, out in the driveway, soaking up some sun:
    GettingSomeSun.jpg

    After that was done, back into the garage it went, and I was able to proceed with silicone and rivets for the trunk sheet metal. I found that apparently I had planned to do this prior to the cockpit's back panels - as I had predrilled holes that I now had no way to get to. But, hey, moving on. It'll be fine, and no one's going to be able to see that anyway, right? More metal, and starting to look slightly more car like:
    TrunkSheetMetal.jpg

    Then, I moved on to bleeding the brakes. I had a separate thread about finding an adapter for the CNC reservoirs - and the AGM adapter was perfect. Using the pressure bleed system from Motive Products was pretty slick. I've never bled brakes before, so it was a bit of a learning experience:
    BrakeBleeding.jpg

    One of the things I learned? Well, apparently you're supposed to bench bleed the master cylinders beforehand. I did not know this. So, after doing the bleed at all four wheels, and thinking I was good, it was a bit odd that the pedal felt the way it did. I talked with a guy at work, who used to be a hobby racer, and who I've talked to previously about the whole balance bar set-up stuff - and the first thing he asked was, "did you bench bleed the masters?" Ah, no. So, I gen'd this up to go back and do that while it was in vehicle:
    BenchBleedOnVehicle1.jpg BenchBleedOnVehicle2.jpg

    That seemed to work really well (other than some spilled brake fluid, which I promptly cleaned up). I'm going to go back and do all four corners again, but the pedal already feels so much better.

    My battery box is in, and the ground wires are installed. I'm holding off on the positive cable until I've got the engine in, so I can be sure that the length is perfect before melting that solder slug and finalizing the cable end. Same for my fuel line, as I decided to not just guess at the final mechanical fuel pump location and am holding off before cutting it and installing the final fuel hose fitting.

    FEAD stuff is in the works (subject of a standalone thread in the main area), and I feel like I'm making slow but steady progress. Fun to be back at it.

    Now, off to look to see if anyone in my general area has an engine run stand for rent or sale. Maybe that would be a good idea, but we'll see. I'm starting to think about dropping the powertrain in, and it is killer exciting.

    Thanks, and as always, any feedback is welcome. Have a good night.
    -Curt
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

  15. #92

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Keep Wrenching, Riveting & Wiring!
    ..........You're Getting There!

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  17. #93
    Ted G's Avatar
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    License plate wiring: I mounted through the trunk to the access panel. I also ran my reverse light to that area as I may or may not have my reverse lights mounted in the license plate frame. I also ran a wire below the trunk in case I want it there. Still waiting on the body to come back from painter.... so haven't made that decision yet.

    Trunk: I went with Rivnuts on the panels to access the fuel tank. Just makes sense for easy access when needed.

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  19. #94
    Senior Member Blitzboy54's Avatar
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    The red powder coated panels look terrific! Are those going to be exposed at all or covered in carpet?
    MK4 #10008 - Ordered 10/06/20, Delivered 03/03/21, First Start 7/22/21, First Go Kart 7/24/21
    Paint by Metal Morphous 5/14/22, Legally registered 6/8/22, Graduated 7/20/22
    Build Thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...been-delivered
    Complete Kit, Ford 306, Sniper/Dual Sync, T5, Hydraulic clutch

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  21. #95
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blitzboy54 View Post
    The red powder coated panels look terrific! Are those going to be exposed at all or covered in carpet?
    Thanks for the comment. As for what will come, I've been thinking about that, and thinking about that, and thinking about that... Etc. As much as I love it, and the two tone rivet look on the different panels - I'm pretty solidly on the dynaliner and carpet side of the fence right now. Doing the build, I've got several scratches and some other damage on the powder coat - and I don't want to feel like I'm always walking on egg shells in the car trying not to ruin the finish on the panels.

    In fact, I guess as evidence that I perhaps have even made up my mind, I recently asked a neighbor who has a thing for cycling through project 70's era Firebirds if he has an upholstery guy. I'm dead set on red with white stripes for the paint on the exterior. I think a full red interior would be too much red (oh my God, did I really just say that???). But, some red in the interior - now that might just be the ticket. I've been looking at reference examples of cars with some or lots of red on the interior, downloading pictures, staring at them repeatedly, and trying to imagine what level will work with a red exterior. But all red seems too much (for a red car):
    79295_Interior_Web.jpg 1957-550-spyder-spyder-picture.jpg 232381_Interior_Web.jpg 10719927-1964-shelby-cobra-std-c.jpg download.jpg WholeLottaRed.jpg 2022-ford-mustang-gt-convertible.jpg VetteRedonRed.jpeg

    I'm still a ways from there, so there's still time. But it is definitely something I'm actively thinking about.

    Always planning about something.
    -Curt
    Last edited by mach'er; 06-02-2023 at 08:16 PM.
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

  22. #96
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    Side Quest

    I'm approaching installing my engine, but have hesitancy because I don't want to put it in and take it out, potentially repeatedly, to fix leaks or whatever (which I fully expect, since I did some of the work). Additionally, I'm still biding my time while I wait for the powder coater to get me a few engine parts back that I had dropped off. So, rather than working ahead elsewhere, or doing the DEI floor and tunnel shield on the outside surfaces of the footboxes, I'm going full on side quest.

    After unsuccessfully trying to find a decent used one, or even one to rent or borrow, I decided to build my own engine test stand. I plan to put my engine on this thing, and check for leaks, do some break-in, and probably do the synchronization of my carburetors all on the stand.

    WiringDiagram.jpg ControlPanel.jpg FanAndGauges.jpg MasterSwitchAndIgnition.jpg

    I started with this base stand frame from Summit (918015), and have pieced the rest together. I'm getting close to having the stand ready for the engine. I'm sure it will be done by the weekend, and the powder coater had given me an estimate of completion of this week. So, maybe next week I'll have both done? Get it mounted and do a first start on the engine.

    I know that's cheating for a first start. But sometimes cheating is a wise choice.

    Anyway, when I'm done with this project, I'll have to decide if I keep it for future use, sell it, or what. A car buddy said, "this just means you need more projects". Come on, man. I need to finish one of the ones I already have. First.

    Speaking of first. I'll post some first start pics/vids whenever I have them. Hopefully soon. Unless it goes horribly wrong. In that case, you'll see second start (or third, fourth,....) and maybe I'll fess up to it not being the first start.

    Hope you're all having a good week.
    -Curt
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

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  24. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by mach'er View Post

    I know that's cheating for a first start. But sometimes cheating is a wise choice.
    Nope, not cheating. Looking forward to seeing first startup.

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  26. #98
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    Footbox External Insulation Added - Thanks to JohnK

    While I impatiently wait for the powder coater to finish the parts I dropped off, I'm not making progress on the engine, nor the test stand at this point. The test stand is essentially done, and just waiting for an engine to go on it. But, I'm stuck waiting for the expansion tank to return, as it needs to go on before the water pump, which needs to go on before the CVF accessory brackets, and so on. So, I wait.

    There was a fairly major development in the hardware decision realm. I was doing research on these Weber carbs, and kept reading about how running a mechanical pump and depending on a regulator to keep fuel pressure low enough wasn't the best idea. So, I've ditched my mechanical fuel pump, and am replacing it with a Carter Rotary Vane style pump that puts out 4 psi and 50 gph. Seems the way to go. I'm dealing with the change in direction the way I know how... by just sucking it up and doing the work. I wish I had made this decision before riveting on the trunk metal. But, yup, deal with it and do the work.

    Also, JohnK had posted his methodology for installing DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield in a thread about heat shields and insulation, and linked to more details about how he did his here. I thought his pieces looked good, and I also thought it was a method I'd be able to emulate, so I went for it.

    TemplatesJigsaw1.jpg Ready2Brake4.jpg BendFlange5.jpg

    I needed to order one more smaller panel of the insulation because I didn't have room for one of the 7 panels I decided to do - but here's how it turned out otherwise.

    PassengerSideDone8.jpg DriversSideNotDone10.jpg

    I appreciate running through other build threads, and finding ideas like this, and giving them a shot. Mine isn't turning out perfect, but I'm trying to not let perfect get in the way of the very good. And, I'm pretty happy with it, so that's good enough for me.

    Anyway, I'm going to head back out to the garage, and wrap up the routing of the new electric fuel pump wiring, and then add a fuel pump relay to the test stand. Moving on, finding projects, and being thankful for all the help this forum provides.

    Enjoy your Father's Day weekends.
    -Curt
    Last edited by mach'er; 06-16-2023 at 04:55 PM. Reason: Picture formatting
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

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  28. #99
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    Killer Frustration

    Melt down... the solder has melted down. This is so frustrating. I had this coolant expansion tank for a SBF, and had gone to great lengths to get this thing incorporated into my build.

    I decided it needed to look better, so I took it for powder coating. The powder coater took 4 weeks (vs his 2 week estimate), which was torqueing me off to begin with - but he finally let me know it was 'done'. But, while it was baking, apparently the solder used to make the tank was a very low temp solder - and flowed to the bottom as it hung in his giant oven, pooling and then cooling. I'll still have to go pick it up and evaluate what happened (and whether it can be saved) - but ARGHHHH!

    Crazy. I hadn't even thought that the powder coating process would be hot enough to desolder the thing. And I am finding it hard not to be mad about it, though it's not the powder coater guy's fault that I dropped off a part that would do that. I'm seriously just sitting here facepalming.



    UPDATE: I went and picked up my stuff, and it might not be so bad. It definitely lost solder, but along with the immortal thought from Dumb and Dumber, there might be a chance. I'm going to attempt to figure out a way to build a test rig to pressure check it. But, if nothing else, it looks good.

    DB4407F5-5883-46A0-8405-E12036681CFD.jpg B1C62EC1-DA67-45AB-9A7A-5EF68602138A.jpg

    I'll report back as to whether I successfully figure out how to test it - and what the verdict is. I'm trying to be optimistic.
    Last edited by mach'er; 06-26-2023 at 03:48 PM. Reason: Update and pictures.
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

  29. #100
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    The bad news is, it was leaking. It was leaking badly around the filler neck base - so badly that I couldn't tell if it was also leaking anywhere else. So, out came the torch, and I finished the job of desoldering the filler neck from the tank. Then, I did my best at cleaning up the metal to prepare to reassemble and resolder it back together.

    8BEB9124-0600-4FE7-B74D-EF62903777D2.jpg 520D8B10-68F3-43E8-9F7B-CF017B727E23.jpg

    I had to order solder, because all I could find locally was lead free stuff - and I wanted to use a decent leaded solder. After it arrived, I went ahead and fluxed, soldered, and moved forward with another leak check.

    7E30E176-8E19-427E-807D-2C6728CF17F3.jpg 90EC6873-3B70-4B1D-A37E-38458764514C.jpg 33EB44AC-2533-4015-8E4B-6AF9DE87EBED.jpg

    You can see I used some PVC fittings, and a Motive Products Power Bleeder to pressurize up to about 15 psi, to see if it would hold. It would not. Bummer. I tried to use a soapy solution to find where it was leaking, but all I did was make a mess. So, I filled a big ol' bucket, submerged the thing, and pumped it up - looking for bubbles. I was pretty happy to find it was leaking at the plate that I used to block the thermostat/inlet flange. After redoing that with some gasket sealer - no leaks. It sure seems like it holds!

    Now, on with the build!!
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

  30. #101
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    I spoke too soon. One more leak found at the thermostat housing area, where the pipe passes through the mounting flange. I had to desolder all that, clean it up, and resolder.

    00EC2764-01FC-40CF-A8FE-11F5ED16E62E.jpg CD9433F0-4EFD-4162-8BF5-33BE56595854.jpg

    The mounting plate is pretty thick, so it was a lot of heat to get a good solder joint. That means that the powder coat in that area is a bit worse for wear. But, I'm thinking that those surfaces aren't exactly front and center anyway - so it's still fine enough in my mind.

    This time, pretty darn sure it's leak free.

    I should also say that I did find a vendor that sells these things (for SBF 289/302), but in kit form - so not assembled. If I can fix mine, I think it's a decent do-it-yourself option for anyone with 'build your own' car skills. YouTube and trial and error was enough to get it functional.

    EDIT: I also just saw that Mike Forte has them on his site. https://fortesparts.com/product/vint...gas-fill-tank/ (But I wouldn't recommend having them powder coated! Maybe chromed, or careful rattle can.)
    Last edited by mach'er; 07-02-2023 at 09:32 AM. Reason: I didn't know. Forte's has these tanks.
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

  31. #102
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    Today's progress was fun, except for the heat and high humidity. It was a muggy day, and when I broke down my CVF cardboard boxes at the end of the day, they felt damp. I know I was sweating my *** off, but I didn't know cardboard could do that too.

    CEBDAA70-FE14-472B-A230-2704CEE446D2.jpg 37F30AD8-D65A-4C90-B172-04780D63798E.jpg

    I went with CVF front end accessory drive (v-belt) to keep room for that expansion tank.

    The mid passenger side alternator location meant I needed to take out the four studs holding the alternator's rear housing, and rotate the back 180 degrees to have the positive stud in a favorable position. Then, I set it up so the alternator belt would be on the front groove of the crank & water pump pulleys.

    I used the 351C power steering bracket, along with a Saginaw pump (also from CVF). After putting it on, I realized it was destined for the front groove. Argh! Back to the drawing board with spacers, washers, and multiple runs to ACE Hardware for socket head cap screws of different lengths and some other supplemental stuff that didn't come with the kit - but different combinations of aftermarket stuff calls for some level of being accepting of this kind of thing when it happens.

    Next up, measure for length and get the actual v-belts - but only install the alternator belt initially. I'll put the PS belt on when the time comes - but certainly not until after I'm done with the test stand.

    I also still have to figure out where the pressure dropping insert thingy goes - to run at the right PS pressure for the rack. And I probably should do that before I put it in the car - in case it's easier to get to beforehand.

    But, I'm done for a bit, because a family vacation is about to start. But, then on to putting this thing the test stand. I feel it's very close to that.

    Have a safe 4th of July!


    Edit - I should mention that the para cord worked well for visualizing pulley alignment. Maybe there's some official way to do it - but this worked for me.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by mach'er; 07-01-2023 at 10:19 PM. Reason: Picture formatting
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

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