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Thread: Richey's 33 build by wallace18

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynntuna View Post
    I'm sorry , my question wasn't clear. Did you weld it , bolt it rivit it, the method of attachment?
    Rivets and bolts.
    Last edited by wallace18; 08-16-2017 at 03:16 PM.

  2. #82
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    The last 2 days I have been working on the top, P/W and outside door handles. I use painters tape to hold the weather strips in place on the top. I wait till after paint to mount them permanently. I cut out for the P/W and found out I am missing 4 brackets. FFR is shipping them, Thanks Dan! I started of the outside door handles. Boy they are a PITA!!! I really prefer to use remote door openers myself but, Richey wants the handles. I will have to fabricate a better cable deal by the latch. I am at least making some progress, LOL!

    IMG_2029.JPGIMG_2030.JPGIMG_2031.JPGIMG_2032.JPGIMG_2033.JPGIMG_2034.JPG

  3. #83
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    Spent the morning getting everything working really good on the passenger door. See the photo on how I had to modify the cable setup to the latch. I was able to do all my mods to the drivers side and now have both doors about 90% done.

    IMG_2035.JPGIMG_2036.JPGIMG_2038.JPGIMG_2039.JPGIMG_2040.JPG

  4. #84
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    Finished up the drivers window. I started on the side exhaust. Very tight where it passes thru the frame right before going out the body. I had to oval shape the pipe to make it fit and have clearance. Finished up passenger side. Still more work to do on drivers side exhaust.

    IMG_2042.JPGIMG_2043.JPG

  5. #85

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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Spent the morning getting everything working really good on the passenger door. See the photo on how I had to modify the cable setup to the latch. I was able to do all my mods to the drivers side and now have both doors about 90% done.

    IMG_2035.JPGIMG_2036.JPGIMG_2038.JPGIMG_2039.JPGIMG_2040.JPG
    That whole door assembly as delivered needs to be re-designed. Mine wasn't quite as far off on the cable to latch as yours looks, but, that hokey handle and spring arrangement FFR supplies is sub par. Are you using the supplied mirrors?

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    That whole door assembly as delivered needs to be re-designed. Mine wasn't quite as far off on the cable to latch as yours looks, but, that hokey handle and spring arrangement FFR supplies is sub par. Are you using the supplied mirrors?
    As far as I know I am. I most likely will use convex mirrors though.

  7. #87
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    Last 2 days I installed the front headlights and wired them up. My customer wants to be able to drive the car with the sides and hood off of the car. So I modified the side panels so you can leave the headlights attached. I also mounted the Roadster windshield since my customer requested to be able to go back and forth with the 2 tops. Personally I would stay with the hardtop. If you think you may want to use both do not mount the roadster windshield as in the manual. The holes will not be covered up by the hardtop. Instead mount the hardtop. Trace its outline and install the roadster windshield inside the hardtop outline. Also install the roadster gasket on the windshield frame not on the body. I made holes for the rear speakers and decided to mount tweeters in the holes I made for the A/C vents that I screwed up earlier. I installed and modified the trunk rear bottom aluminum piece and tested the rear lights. Mounted the license plate holder and light as well as the B/U light.
    Basically once I do the center console, PWR door switches, radio and a/c controls car will be ready to go out for paint.

    IMG_2045.JPGIMG_2046.JPGIMG_2047.JPGIMG_2048.JPGIMG_2049.JPGIMG_2050.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 08-23-2017 at 02:21 PM.

  8. #88
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    Today I mocked up the center console. A/C controls at top and radio below. Then in front of shifter the P/W switches. Towards the back the arm rest will pivot up to allow storage and a cup holder in front of it. All will get covered in grained black vinyl. I still have to cut out for P/W switches and wire it all up.

    IMG_2051.JPGIMG_2052.JPGIMG_2053.JPGIMG_2054.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 08-23-2017 at 07:23 PM. Reason: attachments

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Today I mocked up the center console. A/C controls at top and radio below. Then in front of shifter the P/W switches. Towards the back the arm rest will pivot up to allow storage and a cup holder in front of it. All will get covered in grained black vinyl. I still have to cut out for P/W switches and wire it all up.

    Attachment 72733Attachment 72734Attachment 72735Attachment 72736

    I am getting error messages on all of the attachments.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  10. #90
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    Tom-

    Like Tim said, I too am receiving error messages...

    Regards,

    Steve



    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    I am getting error messages on all of the attachments.

  11. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by WIS89 View Post
    Tom-

    Like Tim said, I too am receiving error messages...

    Regards,

    Steve
    Me too!

  12. #92
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    I deleted them and reinstalled them. I can see them now.

  13. #93
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    Wallace,

    Nice looking console! I like how it looks. I might have to steal the design for my car. :-)

    Only change I would make is somehow getting two drink holders in it. SWMBO will insist on not having to hold her drink.


    Are you going to put USB ports in the console for charging phones or an Aux cable to connect a phone to the stereo? SWMBO and I was talking the other day and I think that when I get to that point I am going to not put a radio head unit in the car. The amp and speakers will be wired to either accept Bluetooth or an Aux cable input from a phone or tablet. That way I don't have to worry about wiring up a radio and figuring out where to put it when the dash is already a tight fit.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
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  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Last 2 days I installed the front headlights and wired them up. My customer wants to be able to drive the car with the sides and hood off of the car. So I modified the side panels so you can leave the headlights attached. I also mounted the Roadster windshield since my customer requested to be able to go back and forth with the 2 tops. Personally I would stay with the hardtop. If you think you may want to use both do not mount the roadster windshield as in the manual. The holes will not be covered up by the hardtop. Instead mount the hardtop. Trace its outline and install the roadster windshield inside the hardtop outline. Also install the roadster gasket on the windshield frame not on the body. I made holes for the rear speakers and decided to mount tweeters in the holes I made for the A/C vents that I screwed up earlier. I installed and modified the trunk rear bottom aluminum piece and tested the rear lights. Mounted the license plate holder and light as well as the B/U light.
    Basically once I do the center console, PWR door switches, radio and a/c controls car will be ready to go out for paint.

    IMG_2045.JPGIMG_2046.JPGIMG_2047.JPGIMG_2048.JPGIMG_2049.JPGIMG_2050.JPG
    What size speakers are you going to install in the dash and waterfall.

    Bob.

  15. #95
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    I have some 2.5" Tweeter speakers from a BMW for the dash and 4.5" 2-way speakers for the waterfall. I found the BMW ones in a local U-Pull-it boneyard. An easy fix for my goof up on A/C vent location.
    Last edited by wallace18; 08-25-2017 at 11:15 AM.

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    My Cousin's family has an auto recycling facility. They also have a separate U-Pull it section, only because
    their business evolved on their farm they call it the "EWE pull it".

  17. #97
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    Tom I like the aluminum console over the wood one I did that I copied off tiger bill...very clean

  18. #98
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    Today I wired up the A/C controls, radio, speakers, courtesy lights, A/C vents and P/W switches. I covered the front of the console with black vinyl and reinstalled the waterfall. Installed the shifter boot also. I am waiting on S/S cupholder to come in mail so I can finish up rear of console. Stereo sounds great!

    IMG_2055.JPGIMG_2056.JPGIMG_2057.JPG

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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    I have some 2.5" Tweeter speakers from a BMW for the dash and 4.5" 2-way speakers for the waterfall. I found the BMW ones in a local U-Pull-it boneyard. An easy fix for my goof up on A/C vent location.
    Thanks for the information.
    Bob

  20. #100
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    Finished mocking up mirrors, panels and trim so car can go to Huegenics for paint tomorrow. 68 days from when I picked up kit and 44 days of actual working on car. Total hours so far is 220. Hope to take some time off and maybe do some work on GTM.

    IMG_2058.JPG

  21. #101
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    Dropped car off at Huegenics today. Richey picked out a really cool candy red for above the cove line and a metallic silver for below. I have a few things to remove from the car for them to get started on bodywork. Here is a few pics at Huegenics
    http://www.huegenics.com

    IMG_2059.JPGIMG_2060.JPG

  22. #102

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    Nice Work!

  23. #103
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    Nice job!!
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

  24. #104
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    Tom-

    Nice work as always. Perhaps, a good chance to catch your breath!

    The color combo sounds great. Without seeing it, I would be tempted to switch the colors; red on bottom, silver on top. However, I bet it will turn out great.

    It's been fun following along, and I look forward to seeing it all wrapped up!

    Regards,

    Steve

  25. #105
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    Made it thru Irma fine. Huegenics had no damage , So 33 is fine as well. While I wait for paint work, I finished up rear console, has magnetic catch for top. Also engine turned sill plates and window inside plates. I use the FFR window seals on the outside and Steele weather strip with felt for the inside on aluminum angle.

    IMG_2101.JPGIMG_2103.JPGIMG_2105.JPG

  26. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Made it thru Irma fine. Huegenics had no damage , So 33 is fine as well. While I wait for paint work, I finished up rear console, has magnetic catch for top. Also engine turned sill plates and window inside plates. I use the FFR window seals on the outside and Steele weather strip with felt for the inside on aluminum angle.

    IMG_2101.JPGIMG_2103.JPGIMG_2105.JPG
    Tom
    That's a nice looking console, you may want to make a few more of those ?
    Dale

  27. #107
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    Stopped by Huegenics Saturday. They are really doing some fine work on the 33. Lots of work making the cutout side panels more stiff. Also getting all the gaps perfect. Still lot more work to do before primer. These guys take the time to do it right!

    IMG_2110.JPG

  28. #108
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    While I was at Huegenics today I took more pics and fitted the rear cover for when you go topless, LOL. They are getting closer to primer every day.

    IMG_2118.JPGIMG_2119.JPGIMG_2120.JPGIMG_2121.JPGIMG_2122.JPG

  29. #109
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    Went to Huegenics and took the body off the chassis. Brought the chassis home to finish up what I can before putting on the painted body and all the rest.

    IMG_2199.JPGIMG_2201.JPG

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  31. #110
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    Spent the last few days cleaning off all the dust from the body work. I also installed 2 hood stops in the rear to support the body better in this area. Fully adjustable.

    IMG_2211.JPGIMG_2212.JPG

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    Wallace, if you don't mind me asking, what did you do about the thermostat housing? I looked through the build thread but couldn't tell for sure.

  33. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    Wallace, if you don't mind me asking, what did you do about the thermostat housing? I looked through the build thread but couldn't tell for sure.
    Bought a swivel one from Speedway. Part # 550-2670

  34. #113
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    If you want the Summit Racing number I bought one today... SUM-371101
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  35. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    If you want the Summit Racing number I bought one today... SUM-371101
    Thanks for the help guys. This forum is awesome!!

  36. #115
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    With the GTM gone to its new owner, I had time for the 33. Marsha helped me rebleed the clutch. Then I installed the carpet and seat belts.

    IMG_2219.JPGIMG_2220.JPGIMG_2221.JPG

  37. #116
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    I had L&S Auto trim do the waterfall in vinyl. I installed the speakers. Body work is all primiered and going to sit for a week to cure. Hope to put on color by the 20th.

    IMG_2223.JPGIMG_2224.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 01-06-2018 at 07:55 AM.

  38. #117
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    I have followed this build pretty closely since it is very similar to what I’m doing. I admire your work greatly but need some help. Today I’m working on the electric power steering and once I had the clocking ready to drill the final two holes the distance below the frame rails concerns me. In its current position the ps motor is approximately two inches below the frame rails and the oil pan approximately one inch below the frame rails. 2B82DF13-C75E-4217-95D3-25B517542BCF.jpeg
    However when I attached a level to the x frame in the center of the car those measurements were cut in half. 6E81D4DF-3421-4752-8918-A54FF63DE04D.jpeg10DECE2F-4A58-4EBF-B8FA-D36CE015B0A1.jpeg
    Does this appear to be about correct?

  39. #118
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    I wouldn't have anything hanging lower than the oil pan sump.

  40. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    I have followed this build pretty closely since it is very similar to what I’m doing. I admire your work greatly but need some help. Today I’m working on the electric power steering and once I had the clocking ready to drill the final two holes the distance below the frame rails concerns me. In its current position the ps motor is approximately two inches below the frame rails and the oil pan approximately one inch below the frame rails. 2B82DF13-C75E-4217-95D3-25B517542BCF.jpeg
    However when I attached a level to the x frame in the center of the car those measurements were cut in half. 6E81D4DF-3421-4752-8918-A54FF63DE04D.jpeg10DECE2F-4A58-4EBF-B8FA-D36CE015B0A1.jpeg
    Does this appear to be about correct?
    Yes that is correct. That is what happens with the LS3. It does not happen with the SBF. I clocked Richey's as far up as I could.

  41. #120
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    looking forward to seeing your build of a 33 and then 35 pickup. still waiting on a 33 steel body to be available. haven't gotten past build school, just lurking and looking. with ten and more builds, you are my hero.

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