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Thread: ATX MKIV #9644 Coyote Build Thread (Index Post #136)

  1. #1
    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    ATX MKIV #9644 Coyote Build Thread (Index Post #136)

    * Build Index Added - Post #136 (will keep this updated as the build progresses)

    Hi everyone!

    I've been a member of the forum for many years, doing tons of research and planning my build. I've met quite a few members of this forum and the local Cobra Club here in Austin, some of who gave me rides in their cars and spent many hours answering questions for me. I was planning to do a salvage Coyote build in about a year, but recently a partially started MK4 kit came up for sale that I couldn't pass up. This kit has almost all the options I was planning and was within my "budget". So after many years of dreaming of this build, I've finally taken the plunge. It all happened fairly quickly so I wasn't really prepared - I spent the entire weekend rearranging my garage, building shelving, and shuffling tools around. But in the end I was able to make the space I need. I'll be building this in a 2.5 car garage and my wife's car will take up one spot. With the help of a good friend, and a very generous offer to borrow an enclosed trailer already set up for Cobras, I picked up the partially started kit on 8/11/21 from north Houston and hauled it back to Austin.

    About Me
    I have very little practical experience when it comes to working on cars other than basic maintenance, so I plan to ask a lot of questions and seek advice from more experienced builders. It's one of the things I love about this group - everyone is willing to help and offer advice. I'm a mechanical engineer by trade and I'm not afraid to fab custom parts. So this build will be a first for me in many respects, but something I've been wanting to do for at least a decade.

    Goals of this build:
    I will primarily be doing street driving but have hopes of doing some beginner autocross occasionally. We do have a lot of great twisty roads and hill country surrounding Austin. I'll probably go to car shows every now and then as well. I want to add in a lot of creature comforts (AC, heated seats) to extend the driving season as the weather in TX can be brutal especially in the summer.

    Kit Details & Build Plan:
    At this time, I'm thinking that I want to go with a more modern look. I'm highly considering blacking out all the chrome (and wheels) and going with a less than traditional paint scheme. But I'm not 100% decided yet. I hope to make up my mind once I'm at go-kart stage. Here's a list of the major options/accessories included in the kit I purchased, which was shipped from FFR in late 2019. All parts were new/crate when purchased originally. Some of the items I don't plan to use and will probably sell them on the forum later once I'm sure I won't be using them.

    From FFR:
    • MK IV COMPLETE KIT
    • POWDERCOATING ROADSTER CHASSIS
    • MODULAR 4.6/COYOTE ENG/TRANS MOUNT KIT
    • 2015 IRS PARTS w/COMPLETE KIT
    • COYOTE FULL LENGTH HEADERS WITH KIT
    • BODY CUT-OUTS
    • BLACK LEATHER SEATS UPGRADE
    • COYOTE POWER STEERING w/COMPLETE KIT
    • FRONT LOWER ARMS - STANDARD WIDTH
    • FFR GPS GAUGE SET W/KIT
    • Mk4 STAINLESS STEEL BUMPER KIT (will probably sell)
    • STAINLESS SIDE EXHAUST UPGRADE w/HDW
    • WIND WINGS
    • 1.50" MK IV LH CHROME ROLL BAR UPGRADE
    • 14" LEATHER STEERING WHEEL UPGRADE (will probably sell & replace w/ wooden trim wheel from FFR)
    • 2018 IRS 3.55 CENTER SECTION & SPINDLES
    • 12.88" FRONT WILWOOD BRAKES - RED W/KIT
    • 12.88" 2015 IRS WILWOOD BRAKE KIT - RED
    • SUN VISORS
    • ROADSTER WIPER KIT (may sell this)
    • 1.50" PASS SIDE CHROME ROLLBAR
    • 1.50" ROLLBAR GROMMET SET
    • ASSEMBLED SIDE LOUVER SET
    • 18" HALIBRAND STYLE WHEEL/TIRE PACKAGE
    • COYOTE INSTALLATION KIT


    Other Items (included in sale)
    • Coyote Gen 2 Crate Engine - Complete and assembled (Forte)
    • Tremec-T56 Transmission - mounted to the engine (Forte)
    • Hydroboost (Forte)
    • Hydraulic Clutch (Forte)
    • Modified Wilwood Pedal Box Assembly (Forte)
    • LED Headlamps (will probably replace with different style)
    • OTB-6444 S.S. Triple Reservoir
    • Ford Mustang 2005-2018 Mass Air Flow Housing , 3.50" OD (HS-SS-350D6)
    • 3.5" Diameter Aluminum Honeycomb Air Straightener Screen, 1/4" (6mm) Cell (S-350D14)
    • ThermoTech COOL-IT mats (for cockpit insulation)
    • Radiator Fan Shroud
    • lots of tools (engine hoist, torque wrenches, sockets, cleco tools, drill bits, grease gun, wheel dollies, brake flaring tool....lots of others I can't remember)


    Additional Mods/Accessories
    Here are some of the mods I'm considering, but not 100% decided on yet (more research needed):
    • Air conditioning/Heating
    • Heated seats (possibly cooled as well if possible)
    • All LED interior and headlamp lighting
    • Under-dash closeout panel
    • USB under-dash ports
    • Cup holders in trans tunnel
    • Push-button start
    • Roll bar LEDs
    • Front battery mount
    • Drop trunk storage mod
    • Rear cockpit wall cubby
    • High-back seats - although I prefer the look of the low-backs, I may go with high backs for added safety
    • Driveshaft safety loop
    • Custom saddle leather interior - seats, trans tunnel, rear cockpit wall, door cards
    • FFR carbon fiber dash (may covered in same saddle leather TBD - I saw another builder do this and it looked great)
    • Russ Thompson turn signal + quick release steering wheel
    • Maybe a bit ambitious, but I'm considering attempting the tilt-front mod (Jazzman & 2bking sent me detailed plans/instructions on how to pull this off, but man it looks like a real challenge!)
    • Body work & paint - I'll outsource these more than likely, although I do love how a lot of the first time builders pulled this off....something to be said for DIY if you have the patience for it


    In the next post I'll provide some pics and additional details of the current state of this kit, as the previous owner got a good start on some of the main components. Still plenty to do, and lots of ways to make it my own!
    Last edited by dbo_texas; 07-06-2023 at 02:44 PM. Reason: Added build index

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    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Kit pickup

    I plan to pull the wheels off, put it back on jack stands, and thoroughly go over every inch of the car. I want to verify what's been completed, confirm everything is torqued down, and just get a better understanding of all the hardware in general. Here are some of the build tasks already completed on the car:
    • front suspension mounted
    • rear end (IRS) and suspension
    • rotors, brakes, calipers (front & rear)
    • brake lines routed (but not fasted in place or connected to brakes)
    • wheels
    • power steering rack
    • steering column
    • modified Wilwood pedal box w/ Forte hydroboost installed
    • gas tank mounted
    • engine/trans dropped in but needs to be centered and leveled still
    • most mounted aluminum coated in POR15, all visible and boxed panels were professionally powder coated black (still in boxes awaiting assembly)



    Garage space: The MKIV will live on the left-hand side. I plan to hoist the body to the ceiling as others have done to get it out of the way. I didn't want to mess with rolling a body buck on/off the frame on a daily basis.


    Packing: Here are the boxes I picked up with the kit. Many were opened just for inventory.


    All loaded up and ready to head back to ATX:


    Here she is after unloading:




    And all tucked in! I plan to hoist the body up to the ceiling this weekend so I can start to evaluate the current state.
    Last edited by dbo_texas; 08-16-2021 at 11:37 PM.

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    Congrats. Looks like you got a great deal. Happy, happy, happy!
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

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    Straversi's Avatar
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    Congratulations and welcome. Looks like you have a good plan and are well underway. You are in for a really fun time.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Congratulations. Looks like you got a very nice package there. Should make an excellent final result. One comment. You said "...engine/trans dropped in but needs to be centered and leveled still." A little unusual for the engine/trans to be installed with what are obviously uninstalled and maybe unfinished aluminum panels. It's tight in there anyway. Especially so with the Coyote. Not sure how that will work out. You may want to think about pulling it and getting things finished up in the engine bay first. Also from the picture the engine position looks OK. The engine is by definition offset to the right 1-2 inches. Level isn't super critical as long as reasonable. Main criteria with the Coyote is that it's clearing the footboxes on both sides.

    Good luck with your build and keep us updated.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Senior Member Blitzboy54's Avatar
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    Congratulations on what I can only assume was a good deal.

    The good news is the build is not too far along and you can start really making it yours. The bad news is like Paul said you have to pull the engine back out. There is no way I can conceive of to get the inner footbox panels in with the engine there. I would also run the wiring harness before putting it back in and the fuel lines in not already installed. While you are doing that it's not that big of a deal to drill out the rivets and finish your panels in whatever you want. No need if your happy but that is an option too.

    Going to be a great car when it's done. I've never met anyone that didn't love their Coyote.
    MK4 #10008 - Ordered 10/06/20, Delivered 03/03/21, First Start 7/22/21, First Go Kart 7/24/21
    Paint by Metal Morphous 5/14/22, Legally registered 6/8/22, Graduated 7/20/22
    Build Thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...been-delivered
    Complete Kit, Ford 306, Sniper/Dual Sync, T5, Hydraulic clutch

  9. #7
    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Congratulations. Looks like you got a very nice package there. Should make an excellent final result. One comment. You said "...engine/trans dropped in but needs to be centered and leveled still." A little unusual for the engine/trans to be installed with what are obviously uninstalled and maybe unfinished aluminum panels. It's tight in there anyway. Especially so with the Coyote. Not sure how that will work out. You may want to think about pulling it and getting things finished up in the engine bay first. Also from the picture the engine position looks OK. The engine is by definition offset to the right 1-2 inches. Level isn't super critical as long as reasonable. Main criteria with the Coyote is that it's clearing the footboxes on both sides.

    Good luck with your build and keep us updated.
    Thanks for the tips Paul. I may consider pulling out the engine/trans like you suggest. Right now none of the panels are riveted, just held in place with clecos and silicone between the frame/panel. The passenger footbox panels are in place but not he driver's side. Also, fuel lines haven't been routed yet so that may be another reason. Many of the boxed panels (Box 6A) have been professionally powder coated black already. To be honest my head is spinning a little bit right now so I need to take some time and closely read through the manual and figure out what all needs to be completed before installing the engine/trans. I'll be taking a close look at a several of the build threads including yours for guidance.

    Question time:
    1. If I did want to re-finish some of the panels (currently coated in POR15), is there a good way to remove the POR15 or just scuff and re-coat with product of my choosing? Main reason I would do this is just inconsistent coverage job - I'd prefer a little bit cleaner look.
    2. Is the wiring harness provided with the complete kit a Ron Francis wiring harness or does FFR make their own harness? If they are different, what are the benefits of the RF harness?
    3. With a Coyote install, is it necessary to relocate the oil filter? It looks trapped by the tubular frame member. I think I've seen several people relocate that...just wanted to confirm if this is a good idea before I start researching more.

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbo_texas View Post
    Thanks for the tips Paul. I may consider pulling out the engine/trans like you suggest. Right now none of the panels are riveted, just held in place with clecos and silicone between the frame/panel. The passenger footbox panels are in place but not he driver's side. Also, fuel lines haven't been routed yet so that may be another reason. Many of the boxed panels (Box 6A) have been professionally powder coated black already. To be honest my head is spinning a little bit right now so I need to take some time and closely read through the manual and figure out what all needs to be completed before installing the engine/trans. I'll be taking a close look at a several of the build threads including yours for guidance.

    Question time:
    1. If I did want to re-finish some of the panels (currently coated in POR15), is there a good way to remove the POR15 or just scuff and re-coat with product of my choosing? Main reason I would do this is just inconsistent coverage job - I'd prefer a little bit cleaner look.
    2. Is the wiring harness provided with the complete kit a Ron Francis wiring harness or does FFR make their own harness? If they are different, what are the benefits of the RF harness?
    3. With a Coyote install, is it necessary to relocate the oil filter? It looks trapped by the tubular frame member. I think I've seen several people relocate that...just wanted to confirm if this is a good idea before I start researching more.
    My take:

    1. Don't know for sure. Haven't tried to remove POR15. Might be able to rough it up and recoat. But don't know how it would respond including react which is always a big mess. Maybe experiment on in an area that's not seen when finished.

    2. Factory Five supplies only a Ron Francis harness in the vintage kit you have. You'll get some negative comments from a few maybe. But don't reinvent the wheel. It works and I'd recommend you stay with it. And the majority of the build documentation you'll see on here is with it. So lots of tips, ideas, and troubleshooting if it comes to that. As a self-admitted newbee to this, be a little cautions about changes and mods. They can quickly cause complication and unintended consequences. I'd definitely put the wiring harness in that category.

    3. No, normally for a Coyote build it's unnecessary to relocate the oil filter. In fact I'd recommend against it unless you have some specific reason to do so. Again, added and unnecessary complication. Most of use a smaller filter than the stock one. Fits fine and easy to spin on and off in the stock location. I use a Mobil 1 M1-113 Extended Performance Oil Filter. There are others. Keep in mind the Ford recommended oil change on these engines is 10K miles or one year max. Unless you're way above average, you'll end each year with significantly less than 10K miles.

    Comment regarding your panels. You said the previous builds installed the panels with clecos and silicone? That's very unusual. Typically never use silicone until the final step with rivets and not planning to remove. You may have a difficult time getting them off. That stuff does stick pretty well if full coverage.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
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    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    1. Don't know for sure. Haven't tried to remove POR15. Might be able to rough it up and recoat. But don't know how it would respond including react which is always a big mess. Maybe experiment on in an area that's not seen when finished.
    Agreed about the potential mess. I have a few panels where I can try it out, but right now I'm leaning toward just scuffing and re-applying a different finish.

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    2. Factory Five supplies only a Ron Francis harness in the vintage kit you have. You'll get some negative comments from a few maybe. But don't reinvent the wheel. It works and I'd recommend you stay with it. And the majority of the build documentation you'll see on here is with it. So lots of tips, ideas, and troubleshooting if it comes to that. As a self-admitted newbee to this, be a little cautions about changes and mods. They can quickly cause complication and unintended consequences. I'd definitely put the wiring harness in that category.
    Absolutely agree with you on this one. The electrical is one of the things on this build I'm most nervous about and not looking forward to. I don't plan to deviate from the norm on this one, I just wasn't sure if the RF harness is what comes with the kit so thanks for clarifying that.

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    3. No, normally for a Coyote build it's unnecessary to relocate the oil filter. In fact I'd recommend against it unless you have some specific reason to do so. Again, added and unnecessary complication. Most of use a smaller filter than the stock one. Fits fine and easy to spin on and off in the stock location. I use a Mobil 1 M1-113 Extended Performance Oil Filter. There are others. Keep in mind the Ford recommended oil change on these engines is 10K miles or one year max. Unless you're way above average, you'll end each year with significantly less than 10K miles.
    OK this is good to hear. I'll look for the low-profile filter and swap it out when I pull the engine.

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Comment regarding your panels. You said the previous builds installed the panels with clecos and silicone? That's very unusual. Typically never use silicone until the final step with rivets and not planning to remove. You may have a difficult time getting them off. That stuff does stick pretty well if full coverage.
    I think the only ones I might need to remove would be the ones in the passenger footbox, and yes they are attached with silicone + clecos. Maybe I can slide a razor blade between the seam and cut through the silicone. Not ideal but I'll see how it goes.
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

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    Hey Cuz,
    What a fun project, I will be watching and as you know, I am but a text away. This is my view today. IMG_8572.jpg

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    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merlin Tech View Post
    Hey Cuz,
    What a fun project, I will be watching and as you know, I am but a text away. This is my view today. IMG_8572.jpg
    Awesome! I'm sure I will be in touch frequently!
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

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    Senior Member 460.465USMC's Avatar
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    Welcome, dbo_texas! Glad to have you aboard, and joining the F5 fun.

    What an incredible find on your kit! And, tools to boot! Not too shabby. Also cool it came with a six speed. That will be nice.

    Will be fun to see you get started, and watch your build.

    I have limited experience with POR-15 (I love it), but from what I can tell that stuff is incredibly durable, and seems almost permanent. Seems like it would be quite a chore to remove, but I've never tried it, so can only speculate.

    Welcome!
    Chris Build Thread Index
    Complete kit delivered: 10/15/2020. First Start: 6/25/22. First Go-Kart: 8/14/22. Legal: 7/25/23.
    Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars.
    This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin.
    Build Thread

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    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Questions about pulling out the engine

    Hi folks,
    I've been going through the boxes, just getting a feel for where different parts are located. For the most part, items are still in the original FFR numbered boxes. However, there are quite a few backordered parts that arrived later that are in random boxes so I'm trying to label everything really well before I stack them on my shelving to clear up the garage space. This weekend my goal is to get the body hoisted up to the ceiling (like THIS), and get the car back up on jack stands so I can pull the wheels off. Then I plan to start going through the build manual step-by-step to verify the assembly for front/rear suspension, control arms, knuckles/hubs, rotors and Wilwood brake installs. I'm mainly planning to check clearances/gaps, and also re-check that all fasteners have been torqued down and then mark the fastener heads with something like THIS.

    On to other questions:
    1. Before I pull the engine out (to do some of the suggested stuff in the thread above such as fuel lines, electrical, etc), are there other things I should mock up now while it is in the frame such as electrical harness routing (others?).
    2. Once I do finally pull the engine, should I remove it with the trans still attached or decouple it from the transmission? Right now nothing is really bolted down other than the engine mounts
    3. Finally, I saw some people either build an engine stand out of wood (looking @ edwardb's 20th anniversary build) OR I know you can buy them as well. If I keep the trans on it, what's the best way to support it? Do I just add an beam under the transmission to support the weight of it? I know I can't just set it on the ground because it could damage the Moroso oil pan. Just looking for best suggestions on how to prop up the engine/trans while I get the other engine bay work completed.
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

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    Senior Member Blitzboy54's Avatar
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    The transmission should come out with the engine. That is the best way to get those in and out. Although much easier with a small block. Remember to take off your shifter as that little pigtail sticking up causes issues. Definitely do not want to lay it on the ground. You can build a stand. Some guys that receive coyote engines have metal brackets that ship with them. Perhaps someone on the forum would sell/give you a set they are no longer using. Depending on how long you plan to have it out you can let it hang on your hoist as well. I did that for nearly a week, but it sounds like you will have it out longer.
    MK4 #10008 - Ordered 10/06/20, Delivered 03/03/21, First Start 7/22/21, First Go Kart 7/24/21
    Paint by Metal Morphous 5/14/22, Legally registered 6/8/22, Graduated 7/20/22
    Build Thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...been-delivered
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    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Yes I would guess I'll have it out for a bit longer than a few weeks and the hoist does take up a lot of space with the legs out. I'm thinking I will need to get some type of stand (homemade or bought). I also need to get the engine lift brackets - the original owner thought he gave them to me but I haven't found them just yet but I also haven't been through all the boxes. Hopefully by the end of this weekend I'll get through them all and will know for sure if I need the lift brackets.
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

  19. #16
    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Coyote+T56 question

    Reading through some other posts, there was mention of some extra stuff you may need to do if using the T56 vs. TKO (see this post HERE). I have the QuickTime bell housing so that isn't an issue. Can anyone fill me in on the reverse lockout feature (what is required to install this). Are there other mods necessary for the T56 to work in this setup? I'll do some more searching on the forums but if anyone has info please let me know!
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

  20. #17
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbo_texas View Post
    Reading through some other posts, there was mention of some extra stuff you may need to do if using the T56 vs. TKO (see this post HERE). I have the QuickTime bell housing so that isn't an issue. Can anyone fill me in on the reverse lockout feature (what is required to install this). Are there other mods necessary for the T56 to work in this setup? I'll do some more searching on the forums but if anyone has info please let me know!
    That's my post you linked to, so I'll respond. Other than the right bell housing, a little clearancing, and possibly relocating the e-brake, the T-56 fits in an IRS Roadster and quite a few have done it. I really like it in my Coupe, although full disclosure have never installed one myself in a Roadster. For your reverse question -- the T56 has a solenoid powered gate on the shifter for reverse. It prevents you from putting it into reverse unless the solenoid is energized, e.g. opening the gate. It's a nice feature but does need to be addressed. Several approaches: It's possible to just brute force it into reverse. Some also cut the spring to allow it to be forced into reverse a bit easier. Tremec strongly advises against either of these, and so do I. Defeats the whole purpose. Included only for completeness. Some opt for a pushbutton somewhere that energizes the solenoid. So you push the button any time you want to go into reverse. Others tie the solenoid to the brake switch, so that when the brakes are pushed reverse is available. The most elegant solution IMO, and what I did, is to install a speed sensitive module that automatically unlocks reverse when the car is stopped. This one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1IteuOEcCg.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  22. #18
    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    That's my post you linked to, so I'll respond. Other than the right bell housing, a little clearancing, and possibly relocating the e-brake, the T-56 fits in an IRS Roadster and quite a few have done it. I really like it in my Coupe, although full disclosure have never installed one myself in a Roadster. For your reverse question -- the T56 has a solenoid powered gate on the shifter for reverse. It prevents you from putting it into reverse unless the solenoid is energized, e.g. opening the gate. It's a nice feature but does need to be addressed. Several approaches: It's possible to just brute force it into reverse. Some also cut the spring to allow it to be forced into reverse a bit easier. Tremec strongly advises against either of these, and so do I. Defeats the whole purpose. Included only for completeness. Some opt for a pushbutton somewhere that energizes the solenoid. So you push the button any time you want to go into reverse. Others tie the solenoid to the brake switch, so that when the brakes are pushed reverse is available. The most elegant solution IMO, and what I did, is to install a speed sensitive module that automatically unlocks reverse when the car is stopped. This one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1IteuOEcCg.
    As always Paul - thanks for jumping in with an elegant solution! I like the simplicity of this speed sensitive module. Sounds like a winner!
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

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    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Body hoisted - frame up on quick jacks

    Well I accomplished my goal for the weekend, which was to buy some new tools (3-ton floor jack, 3-ton jack stands, pneumatic rivet gun, eyelet bolts), get the body off, hoisted the body up to the garage ceiling and out of the way, and then get the frame up on the quick jacks. Next steps will be to finish inventory review - I'm not doing a 100% review as this has been completed by the previous owner, but rather going through all the boxes to get familiar with them. For items that came in backordered, they aren't in the original numbered boxes so I'm trying to label them well and take pictures of what's in the box so I have an easier visual way to find stuff as it comes up in the assembly manual. After I pull the wheels I can start going through the assembly manual step-by step to check out all the work that has been done so far (front/rear suspension, steering column and rack, rotors and Wilwood brakes). While I don't plan on removing too much stuff, I do want to double-check the torque and mark all the bolts that have been buttoned up fully. Anything else I should specifically look for? I'll post some pics in some of these areas (particularly the suspension and steering column and steering rack) to get some feedback if everything looks OK (again - I'm relatively new to this so I don't know what I don't know).

    I have a question about how I hoisted the body. I used a method I read about in this thread HERE and HERE, basically using a 2x4 to support the body via the trunk and hood opening and raising with some cheap ratcheting hoists (1/4", 300lb load rating per pair) I bought on Amazon ($10/pair). It worked like a charm - very easy to raise/lower and it gets the body out of the way. I like this better than a rolling body buck because I won't have to move it every time I want to work on the car.

    Now to my question: Should I be concerned at all about deforming the body if I keep it elevated and supported like this for an extended period of time (let's say 6mo - 1 yr)? I do have a cross-brace between the front/rear cockpit openings, but wasn't sure if the 2x4 would cause any support issues over time. I didn't add any padding under the 2x4 - I could easily put some rags or something there but the fiberglass seems to be pretty stout as-is. Worst case I can cut the body profile out of plywood like you would with a body buck to support it better - I just wasn't sure if that was really needed. Opinions welcome!

    Picture time:

    Here is the hoist setup:


    Here it is lifted to the ceiling and out of the way - note I had to rotate it 90° to clear the garage door when it is open. I'm 6'1" and it clears my head by a good 4 or 5 inches so I won't have to duck - nice!


    Close-up of the hoist w/ 2x4 support brace in the hood - same setup in the trunk.


    Jack-stand locations on main frame tubes. Front stands sit just behind the cross-tube, and the rear stands are just in front of where the rectangular tube bisects the main frame tubes:


    Rear view:
    Last edited by dbo_texas; 08-23-2021 at 10:55 AM.
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

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  26. #20
    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Aluminum panels - refinish or buy replacements?

    As I was working on the car this weekend I found that in several areas where the aluminum had been coated with POR15, it was coming off. I was peeling off in large flakes which makes me think the panels weren't cleaned properly prior to putting on the POR15. Other panels seem rock solid and it seems like it would be damn near impossible to remove it. I'm going to try some solvent on a few areas that would be covered with carpet just to see how much of a pain it would be to remove it and re-finish. I also plan to reach out to a local powder coater and see if they have any type of acid/solvent bath that could remove this stuff. While I'm doing that, I've requested a quote from FFR for new panels on any of the parts that are visible in the engine bay or wheel wells. I'm guessing it wouldn't be cheap to just get new panels, but if it saves me a week of sanding I might just do it. What budget? However, the downside of new panels is that the frame has already been drilled for rivets, so I'd need to maybe line up the new panel with the old ones and mark the holes that way everything lines up when I install them. I think that will work OK.

    Pic of the firewall POR15 peeling:


    Pic of the passenger footwell panels. These are going to be a chore to remove. They aren't riveted, but they have been siliconed. I figure I can slice through the silicone with an exacto and then try to clean up the frame after the panels come off so that the new panels sit flush. F-panels will also be difficult to remove with the front suspension already installed. They have been riveted/siliconed, and I don't think I have access to a few of the rivets unless I disassemble some of the front end....may not be worth it for those two panels.
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

  27. #21
    Member Ed Mc's Avatar
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    I have the metal engine dolly my coyote came from Factory Five on as well as the engine lift brackets, you can have them for the cost of shipping from IL. Send a pm if this works for you

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  29. #22
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    Congrats, dbo,
    I found a simialr kit, not quite to what I would have ordered, but a Roadster nonetheless. Mine has the 8.8 reat from a donor thta needed rebuild, so that's where I started. Yours is much farther along than mine was.

    I'll be following along. Happy Building!

    marsh

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  31. #23
    Senior Member egchewy79's Avatar
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    your idea of holding the old panels over the new ones and marking the drill holes might be flawed. I found that even if everything was drilled and cleco'd and fit well, the fit changes even when adding a thin layer of silicone between the panels. I'd be afraid that you'd need to go ahead and redrill the holes as a millimeter off here or there will really screw up your hole pattern. I'm guessing that slicing through the silicone and peeling the panels apart without bending/warping the panels will also be a bit of a challenge. Good luck and keep us up to date!

  32. #24
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by egchewy79 View Post
    your idea of holding the old panels over the new ones and marking the drill holes might be flawed. I found that even if everything was drilled and cleco'd and fit well, the fit changes even when adding a thin layer of silicone between the panels. I'd be afraid that you'd need to go ahead and redrill the holes as a millimeter off here or there will really screw up your hole pattern. I'm guessing that slicing through the silicone and peeling the panels apart without bending/warping the panels will also be a bit of a challenge. Good luck and keep us up to date!
    If you use new panels, I agree trying to match the old holes would be difficult. Just not necessary IMO. Lay out new hole locations avoiding the old ones. During final installation, just make sure to get some silicone in each of the old holes. Will seal them up and gone.

    You may find the cost for new panels from FF could be a bit expensive. They don't give them away. Plus the shipping won't be cheap. Not to mention how busy they are right now and you might end up waiting. Short of destroyed panels, I'd try to reuse what you have. Powder coating often includes media blasting (versus solvent) which might remove the old paint. Not sure what your capabilities are, but fabbing panels yourself isn't that hard. One more option.
    Last edited by edwardb; 08-24-2021 at 08:02 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Hydroboost plumbing and proportional valve questions

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    If you use new panels, I agree trying to match the old holes would be difficult. Just not necessary IMO. Lay out new hole locations avoiding the old ones. During final installation, just make sure to get some silicone in each of the old holes. Will seal them up and gone.

    You may find the cost for new panels from FF could be a bit expensive. They don't give them away. Plus the shipping won't be cheap. Not to mention how busy they are right now and you might end up waiting. Short of destroyed panels, I'd try to reuse what you have. Powder coating often includes media blasting (versus solvent) which might remove the old paint. Not sure what your capabilities are, but fabbing panels yourself isn't that hard. One more option.
    Good points - and I did consider that lining up the panels to mark the rivet holes might not work out. I guess it would depend on the cost of new FFR panels. I could try a few and see if it works and if it doesn't I would drill new holes and patch the old ones like suggested. I just really like the look of the cleaned/brushed aluminum + shark hide finish. But, depending on how much of a pain this is, I may just leave it and move forward. Worst case I can scuff and patch the POR15 where it is peeling up, buy my concern is that other areas will peel over time.

    For those that have installed Forte's hydroboost, I need some help with understanding the plumbing. I've watched some Youtube videos so now I'm an expert - can anyone confirm if I have the plumbing correct for this unit? I know I can reach out to Forte but I thought I'd ask here first. Also, if anyone has pics of how they routed the hydroboost lines that would be a big help. From the looks of it, I might want to get some 90° -6AN adapters for those high pressure lines coming out of the hydroboost but wanted to see how others route the hoses before I buy anything.


    Am I correct in my assumption that you can use a proportional valve on the brake lines coming out of the hydroboost to adjust the front/rear brake bias? Is this needed/recommended? Is there a particular proportional valve p/n that is recommended for this setup?
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

  34. #26
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbo_texas View Post
    For those that have installed Forte's hydroboost, I need some help with understanding the plumbing. I've watched some Youtube videos so now I'm an expert - can anyone confirm if I have the plumbing correct for this unit? I know I can reach out to Forte but I thought I'd ask here first. Also, if anyone has pics of how they routed the hydroboost lines that would be a big help. From the looks of it, I might want to get some 90° -6AN adapters for those high pressure lines coming out of the hydroboost but wanted to see how others route the hoses before I buy anything.

    Am I correct in my assumption that you can use a proportional valve on the brake lines coming out of the hydroboost to adjust the front/rear brake bias? Is this needed/recommended? Is there a particular proportional valve p/n that is recommended for this setup?
    I used this diagram for the plumbing on my #7750 Mk4 build with hydroboost. It's very specific with fittings, which may/may not be exactly what you need or use. But the hose routing is right on.



    That master cylinder is different than the one Forte supplied with my setup. But then that was a few years ago... "Normal" practice is for a prop valve to be on the rear brake line. But you'll find lots of debate in several threads on here that for these builds should be on the front brake line. Depending on how you use the car, you may not need one at all. For street use I'll bet you would leave it wide open and never touch it. That's been my experience anyway. May want to consider leaving it off for now and see what happens.
    Last edited by edwardb; 08-25-2021 at 10:21 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  36. #27
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    When replacing panels, this is the method I use. Lay the old panel over the new panel and scratch mark the old holes. Put the new panel in place and either have someone help hold it or use clamps if possible. Take a pointed punch and tap it on the scratch mark. The punch will find the hole in the frame. Now drill and cleco the hole. Do the critical alignment spots or corners to ensure you have it in the right place. After you have 4 or 5 clecos in, Just pinch & drill. The drilling is just getting the new panel metal out of the way as the punch will have the drill centered in the old hole.
    I use this method on trailer panels as the alignment of the hole needs to stay in line or it all looks wrong and I just won't sleep at night if the holes are all off.

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  38. #28
    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    More parts ordered

    Not much to report this week. I ordered a few parts:
    • FFR Carbon Fiber dash
    • lower radiator mount (Breeze) - I didn't order the upper as many folks seem to think it isn't needed
    • offset bushing mount for steering rack (Breeze)
    • Front mount battery kit (Breeze)
    • Rear cockpit cubby (Breeze)


    I also plan to order a few Russ Thompson parts later this week:
    • Turn signal kit
    • Drop trunk storage box


    I have Friday & Monday off this week so I plan on going through all the suspension and brake work done, retorquing everything to spec and marking all the bolts that have been tightened down. Then I might work on installing the KRC power steering pump/reservoir kit to the front of the engine. Once I get some of the parts above I'll start fitting those as well.

    Question: For those that have installed the North Race Cars A/C system on a Coyote roadster, is it necessary to do the fire-wall forward mod (to make more room for running A/C vent hoses) or can you fit everything behind the stock FFR firewall? Also, I'm well aware that the glove box on the Carbon Fiber dash won't work with the A/C. I plan to do as others have done, and basically take the back off the glove box to shorten it significantly. I may be able to store a few small items in there (ear plugs?) but I don't expect much more than that.
    Last edited by dbo_texas; 08-31-2021 at 02:28 PM.
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

  39. #29
    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    you could do a shortened (custom) version of a glovebox for the CF dash to make more room!
    Todd
    25th Anniversary MkIV | #20 of 25 | Build #9772
    https://cobradreams.com/ <- my build!

  40. #30
    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toadster View Post
    you could do a shortened (custom) version of a glovebox for the CF dash to make more room!
    Yep I plan to do something like this. I'll take the plastic piece FFR provides with the dash and trim it shallow. I'll need to get the A/C components installed first so I know how much room there is to work with. My guess is that the glovebox will end up very shallow (.75" - 1.5") if I had to guess. But I could put insurance card, phone, etc. in there maybe. We'll see!
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

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  42. #31
    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Stripping POR15 from aluminum panels

    Not a lot to report last weekend - busy with the family and holiday. I did get a chance to pull out the aluminum in the passenger footbox and firewall. I had to drill out a few rivets but since they are aluminum it took all of 2-3 seconds per rivet. I made sure to take a lot of pics prior to disassembly so I know how it goes back together with the seam overlaps. I also had to cut through a layer of silicone between the panels and the frame, and between the panel overlaps. No issues.

    Now the fun part - removing the POR15. I started with an orbital sander using 60-grit and 80-grit disks. It worked fine but was very labor intensive. It took about 20 minutes of solid effort to get one side of the firewall clean, and part is completely flat. Most of the other panels have bends in them which would make the sander difficult. After some searching and asking on the FFR Builder Facebook page, someone suggested using Aircraft Paint Stripper. I picked up a can at a local auto-parts store, followed the directions, and voila the POR15 bubbles up after 5-10 minutes and scrapes off with a plastic spatula. Easy.


    And here are the panels after stripping. The paint stripper doesn't lift up the silicone (as expected) so I still have a little bit of cleanup to do.


    I've received a quote from a local powder coat shop that is reasonable ($450 to blast & powder coat all panels) so I'll bring one of the other powder coated panels in to match, and then get all these stripped panels re-coated with a similar matte black powder coat. I also plan to include the trunk aluminum and rear cockpit wall because I had them include that in the quote, so why not. My main concern is that the POR15 is peeling up on those too and I'm worried over time the carpet will pull up if I don't take care of it now. They said they should be able to media blast the POR15 off of those - I could have done that with the visible engine panels instead of using the stripper but I didn't want to take any chances.

    Many parts were ordered last week as mentioned in the previous post, and those should be arriving in the next few days. I'll fit the Breeze front battery box once it arrives - I may need to relocate the front hard brake line if it interferes (TBD). Original builder didn't run it across the X-tube so it might be in the way. I still need to re-torque all the bolts in the suspension too - hopefully I can get to that this weekend.
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

  43. #32
    Senior Member egchewy79's Avatar
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    nice job on the panels. I wasn't sure how much you might muck up the panels trying to remove them. Not sure why the original builder siliconed but didn't rivet the panels. Good idea on removing the POR from the rear bulkhead and trunk panels as well before carpeting. I applied POR to my rear caliper brackets and found that large chunks would flake off when trying to clear out the bolt holes. Might have been poor surface prep on my end though.

  44. #33
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    Be aware that when they blast off POR15 it may take some time to get it off. This can cause warping of the panels as you are actually hammering the panel (with abrasive media). You will be much safer stripping the POR15 and then letting them blast the surface just to etch it. If they are careful, it may not be an issue. I have had this problem in the past.

  45. #34
    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    very cool that the paint stripper worked! nothing more satisfying than peeling off a slab of paint
    Todd
    25th Anniversary MkIV | #20 of 25 | Build #9772
    https://cobradreams.com/ <- my build!

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    Quote Originally Posted by dbo_texas View Post
    I've received a quote from a local powder coat shop that is reasonable ($450 to blast & powder coat all panels) so I'll bring one of the other powder coated panels in to match, and then get all these stripped panels re-coated with a similar matte black powder coat. I also plan to include the trunk aluminum and rear cockpit wall because I had them include that in the quote, so why not.
    Hi Darryl. Nice project you picked up there. You're much further ahead than I am. I'm fairly local to you (10 min N of San Marcos) and just picked up an MK3 project. Would you mind sending me the name of the powder coater? I'd like to get my panels coated as well. Thanks!

  47. #36
    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wcj View Post
    Hi Darryl. Nice project you picked up there. You're much further ahead than I am. I'm fairly local to you (10 min N of San Marcos) and just picked up an MK3 project. Would you mind sending me the name of the powder coater? I'd like to get my panels coated as well. Thanks!
    PM sent. Let me know if you have any questions.
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

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  49. #37
    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Tank Removed and Kleiner Quick Jack Mod

    This weekend I removed the tank so that I could install the Russ Thompson drop trunk box. So first order of business was to remove the bolts for the trunk --> I went ahead and bought a metric and SAE set of deep sockets since I didn't have either yet (more tools!). That made the job easy. I used my floor jack to support the tank while lowering it slowly. No problem.


    Next, since I had the tank removed I went ahead and installed the bolts and couplers nuts for the Kleiner Quick Jack mod (if you aren't familiar with this, it allows you to remove the body without having to drop the gas tank). I found all the parts I needed @ Home Depot. I bought 7/16-14 all-thread rod, 7/16-14 x 0.75" bolts, washers, and 7/16-14 coupler nuts (1.75" length). I'll put the rod aside until I'm ready to cut it to length. For now I just need to get the coupler nuts installed with the 3/4" length bolts installed from the tank side and everything else can be added later. Here is a shot from the rear after installing into the frame brackets:


    And from the tank side:


    RT Trunk box install on next post.
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

  50. #38
    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Feb 2018
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    Austin, TX
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    Russ Thompson Drop Trunk Kit Install

    With the Kleiner mod complete, I went ahead and assembled the RT drop trunk kit. The parts went together without any issues - Russ's instructions worked just fine. So I riveted the box together first (this is just prior to drilling):


    Before I removed the tank I measured where the fuel level sensor was so I could attempt to position the hole in the drop trunk kit above that. I then positioned the kit from underneath and held it in place with the floor jack and a piece of lumber. From the top-side, I marked where the frame cross-bars intersected the flanges on the drop trunk box. I used a dremel w/ cutoff wheel to trim the aluminum flanges to a depth of 3/4" per Russ's instructions. I found this to be very tedious and I ended up having to tweak my cuts several times until I got the fit I wanted.


    Next up, I re-positioned the box, installed the rear trunk aluminum (with clecos) and marked the bottom face of the trunk deck where the drop-trunk opening should be. I removed the trunk deck and cut the hole using a jigsaw w/ metal cutter bit (started w/ .25" holes in all 4 corners to get the blade through).


    Finally, after re-installing and tweaking the edges a bit to get a good fit, I was ready to start drilling the rivet holes. With the drop trunk kit held in place with the jack, I drilled through the trunk deck and drop trunk at the same time. I used clecos to held it all together for now. I plan to powder coat the trunk box along with all the other aluminum panels in a few weeks. All in all I'm really glad I decided to install this kit. As everyone who's done this mod agrees, it really adds a ton of extra trunk space.


    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

  51. #39
    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    Feb 2018
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    Austin, TX
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    Fuel Line Questions

    I've been researching what to do with the fuel lines. I've confirmed that the original kit owner installed a 190 LPH in-tank pump from Forte's. I don't know the exact brand or p/n. He also purchased a fixed pressure regulator / filter. It looks like the Corvette style LS regulator/filter @ 58psi that many have used. Currently connected are a 1/4" flexible return line (between tank and regulator/filter), and 3/8" flexible hose from the regulator/filter outlet port, all with quick connect fittings. So this is what I'm currently working with:


    Here are my questions - any feedback would be appreciated.
    1. For this regulator/filter setup, is it safe to assume that by mounting it near the tank I will only need to run a single 3/8" line up to the engine compartment?
    2. Should I be concerned about the 1/4" return line being too small for the Gen2 Coyote? I know Breeze sells a high flow return kit which adds a 3/8" return line to the tank. From the looks of it, you would need to pinch off the 1/4" return port on the sender unit (mounted on the tank), then drill a new hole in the tank to install the new high flow 3/8" return port. I wasn't sure if this was needed. I plan on running the stock Gen2 Coyote and this will mostly be a street cruiser. Let me know if I should stick w/ the 1/4" return or go for the Breeze high-flow 3/8" return line kit.
    3. I'm considering buying a better protected flexible 3/8" fuel line - something with either a nylon or stainless steel mesh around the line. I would also like to switch to 6AN fittings vs. the quick connects. Does anyone have opinions and/or recommendations on a specific brand flex line to look into? I'm assuming I'll need to get some quick-connect to 6AN adapters to hook up to the regulator/filter and to the tank ports.

    Thanks in advance for the input/opinions!
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

  52. #40
    Senior Member egchewy79's Avatar
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    May 2017
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    Dublin, OH
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    1,816
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    I got my flex SS PTFE lines through Forte. I think he orders them from Fragola and they come custom cut with fittings attached. I have -6AN fittings for my pump hanger. The manual does mention drilling out the return port with a larger drill bit for better return flow, but you might also be able to find a pump hanger with a larger return port. I'd ask Forte what's available and he can get you set up.

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