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Thread: Fidget Build - Tim - Frisco Texas

  1. #241
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    Tim, did you get a tracking number. I received an email on 12/6 that said mine shipped that day and I would receive a tracking number. Nothing yet.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

  2. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    Tim, did you get a tracking number. I received an email on 12/6 that said mine shipped that day and I would receive a tracking number. Nothing yet.
    Never mind.... It was waiting for me when I got home from work.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

  3. #243
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    Never mind.... It was waiting for me when I got home from work.

    The tracking number was there or the parts were there?
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  4. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    The tracking number was there or the parts were there?
    The parts. Thanks Tim.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

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  6. #245
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    I have still been working on the Hot Rod but have not updated the thread recently. It seems that I get a few steps forward and then have to take even more steps back.

    The brackets and pulleys I bought for putting the accessories on the front of the engine are just not working out. They either don't line up or I can't find the correct part. So I started looking into the accessory package for the 350 SBC. When measuring I found that I was going to have to move the engine back a half inch so the pulleys can clear the steering rack. So last week I ended up pulling the engine and transmission once again. I had actually not though about how far along I was. It took quite a while to disconnect everything and get it ready to be pulled.




    This at least gave me an easier time in drilling and riveting in the firewall and foot box panels. I will also put the steering linkage and everything back together before the engine goes back in.




    Since I had the exhaust disconnected from the headers I pulled it as well. This way it will be easier to wrap the exhaust pipes and mufflers. I got the muffler and pipe wraps for Christmas so I was going to have to pull it anyway.

    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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  8. #246
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    You might check CVF Racing. That's where I got mine. They were very reasonable and excellent quality.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

  9. #247
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Happy Happy Joy Joy! FedEx made a delivery today.







    I added the coke can to give some scale.






    I was not sure what was going to show through once mounted but I am happy with how it looks.





    I am happy with the fat and skinny look with the size difference.





    Now I have a new problem! One that I have never had before. The lug nuts fits down in a "tunnel". They are so narrow that I can't get a socket down onto the lug nuts to tighten them. I could probably buy a thin wall socket to get them in, but I would be worried about getting them tourqued. Any one have any ideas?
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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  11. #248
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Happy Happy Joy Joy! FedEx made a delivery today.



    Now I have a new problem! One that I have never had before. The lug nuts fits down in a "tunnel". They are so narrow that I can't get a socket down onto the lug nuts to tighten them. I could probably buy a thin wall socket to get them in, but I would be worried about getting them torqued. Any one have any ideas?
    I used a splined nut on my wheels, did two things, looks good, easy to install and hard to steal wheels! Well, that's three, your local wheel place should have them.
    20181129_200029.jpg 20180504_140900.jpg my tire wheel supplier also gave me the socket that goes with it when I got the nuts.
    Also, you should look into hidden valve stems!
    20180407_132403.jpg this is with the valve stem on
    20180504_140855.jpg valve stem remove and cover on (look at the bottom portion of the rim)

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  13. #249
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    I used a splined nut on my wheels, did two things, looks good, easy to install and hard to steal wheels! Well, that's three, your local wheel place should have them.
    20181129_200029.jpg 20180504_140900.jpg my tire wheel supplier also gave me the socket that goes with it when I got the nuts.
    Also, you should look into hidden valve stems!
    20180407_132403.jpg this is with the valve stem on
    20180504_140855.jpg valve stem remove and cover on (look at the bottom portion of the rim)
    Thanks for that info. I will look into them.

    As for the valve stem... AR puts them on the back of the wheel. Just about can't see them at all.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  14. #250
    Senior Member TxMike64's Avatar
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    Thin wall lug nut sockets
    See Amazon

    I believe HF has a nice set too.
    -- Mike --
    TxMike64
    TxM Garage

  15. #251
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxMike64 View Post
    Thin wall lug nut sockets
    See Amazon

    I believe HF has a nice set too.

    Thanks for that link. From that page I was able to find a singe socket that fits and ordered it. Sadly since it will only be used on the Hot Rod I have to add it to the budget. At least it was only $11.50.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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  17. #252
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    I call BS. I have to buy a new socket every time I need to do something

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  19. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Happy Happy Joy Joy! FedEx made a delivery today.







    I added the coke can to give some scale.






    I was not sure what was going to show through once mounted but I am happy with how it looks.





    I am happy with the fat and skinny look with the size difference.





    Now I have a new problem! One that I have never had before. The lug nuts fits down in a "tunnel". They are so narrow that I can't get a socket down onto the lug nuts to tighten them. I could probably buy a thin wall socket to get them in, but I would be worried about getting them tourqued. Any one have any ideas?
    Congratulations Tim they look awesome!! Mine came with a thin wall socket. I checked and it fits down in the "tunnel" just like it is supposed to. So you should be ok to torque with it.
    Last edited by HVACMAN; 01-12-2019 at 09:47 PM.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

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  21. #254
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Wow...those are some WAW! They are going to look great!
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19

  22. #255
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Went to Discount Tire over the weekend to have the tires mounted and balanced. The manager really did not want to do them for fear that something would happen to the wheels and he would have to replace them. But in the end he charged me more and I got them done. Cost me $250.00 to get them done but they were good and quick.

    Funniest part was they were apparently the biggest tires that anyone had brought in. At one time out of the eight or so guys working there, six of them were working on my wheels.



    One group of guys were working together to try and get them on the machine. Turns out the machine they had it on was too small and they had to move them to a bigger one.





    In the end though they got them mounted.





    Everything came out balanced as well.





    All of this was also supervised by by best helper...



    She would not stop watching what they were doing. When the first guy came and took the wheel she started telling on him. "Grandpa, they are taking your wheels..."
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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  24. #256
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    Those look great and the helper is a cutie.
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

  25. #257
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Work is still going. I had actually not worked on the car it'self in a while but after reading "I almost gave up" I went out and worked on the car last night after work. As I posted last time I pulled the motor one again to get a few things done. Well last night I got it back in, put the carb and breather back on, put she shifter back on and then put the tires on the car and made it a roller for the first time. It only took a year and a half to get it to a roller. But that was really due to waiting to know exactly which tires and wheels I wanted.








    So here is the question for everybody. I put the wheels on and set it on the ground. The body is just sitting on frame and not bolted on, but the measurement from the dash to the rear end is right where it should be so I am thinking that the back of the body is sitting where it should be. That put the body about a half inch from the top of the wheel. I jacked the rear end up and took the weight off the shocks and cranked the spanners up about an inch and a half more. (From the bottom of the shock threads to the top of the spanner (Bottom of the spring) I have three and a half inches. That put the body about an inch and a half from the top of the tire.

    How much room do I need between the top of the tire and the body? I don't want to rub during bumps but the suspension is so stiff now I am not sure how much it will be moving. I stood on the back of the frame and tried to bounce and it did not move much at all.


    I have the following

    Adjustable Control Arms with the rear end moved back to clear the wheel well on the front.
    QA1 Shocks with the QA1 Springs from Dan Ruth. I can't remember what he said the springs were rated at, but I will be shooting him an email asking.

    The tires and wheels come to 29" tall.





    If you are interested I have put this post on my build site but have a few extra photos. You can check it out here.

    http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/2019/0...have-a-roller/
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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  27. #258
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    I do not think there is that much travel in the suspension but I do not know for sure. Those tires are directional, do you have them mounted right?

  28. #259
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrp View Post
    I do not think there is that much travel in the suspension but I do not know for sure. Those tires are directional, do you have them mounted right?

    I hope its right... All four of them are mounted that way.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  29. #260
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    I don't believe they are on correct. The tire should channel water outward when the car moves in a forward direction. The way these are mounted the water would be channeled to the middle of the tire So to correct that, I believe all you have to do is swap the lefts with the rights....
    Last edited by FF33rod; 01-22-2019 at 03:58 PM.

  30. #261
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    I don't believe they are on correct. The tire should channel water outward when the car moves in a forward direction. The way these are mounted the water would be channeled to the middle of the tire

    Yeah I need to change the sides all the tires are on. I just did not pay attention to that when I was putting them on.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  31. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Yeah I need to change the sides all the tires are on. I just did not pay attention to that when I was putting them on.
    They look correct to me, but there should be a directional arrow on each tire.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

  32. #263
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    They look awesome, its no big deal to reverse them on the car.

  33. #264
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrp View Post
    They look awesome, its no big deal to reverse them on the car.
    It's not... Except getting the locking lug on and off is a bit more of a pain since they are so deep. I changed the front wheels last night since I had to get the front of the car up on stands to get some work done. Mostly what I did last night though was to clean up my work space. I can't find a nut that I need to get the steering column in so I started cleaning things up while looking for it.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  34. #265
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    LoL I hate that worse than anything else. I built my car in three years. That is about 2 hours worth of work and 2 years 11 months and 29.75 days looking for parts.

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  36. #266
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Work Continues!


    So over this last week I started on the fabled doors. So far, they are not as bad as I expected. After watching a couple YouTube videos I got to work on getting the hinge holes cut. I got them marked and then started to cut them out. It was the first cuts on the body so I wanted to make sure they were done right. You know how it goes, measure four times, cut once.





    Got a little carried away in a couple spots with the dremal. May have to buy some of the covers that someone sells on here.



    However, the hinge fit and I was able to mark and cut out the lower holes as well.




    Once I got them cut out I started to cut the doors down to fit into the door jam. I was thinking that my doors were not too far off because they were taped to the body when it was delivered. I did not remember them being so far out from the body. Ummm... yeah, I was wrong!




    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  37. #267
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Yesterday I moved outside because I created way too much fiberglass dust in the garage. Biggest problem is the weather. It's cold outside!

    Earlier in the week I had my fans running. This weekend and yesterday I was bundled up and had my heater running.



    Biggest problem I have had doing this so far is the doors are so light that you can't put any weight onto them or they will slide off the table. I ended up having to tape them to the table.



    I have been sanding the doors down to the mold line, or at least close to it. Then I test fit and do more of the door. I am almost done with the first door. But my wife called me in for dinner and when that was over it was too dark to do anymore.





    Last edited by TDSapp; 02-19-2019 at 12:17 PM.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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  39. #268
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Yeah three months without an update... Shame on me. But honestly I have not really done that much on the car since the last post. So much rain has kept me from working outside as much as I wanted to. I also had to slow down on the spending because SWMBO wanted to get some new landscaping for the front of the house. Considering how much I have spent on the Hot Rod I figured I had to let her spend some next.


    But once the Landscaping was done I was able to make one of the last large purchases. The accessories on front of the motor. I bought the V-Belt pulley drive system by Eddie Motorsports. (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ems-ms107-91cl) I wanted this one for two reasons... One, the V-Belts seem to be more old school which is what I am trying to do with this car. Second, it is anywhere from $900 to $1,200 cheaper than the single belt system. It cost $1,220.00 and included the alternator, Sanden SD-7 Compressor, the water pump, all the brackets and pulleys. It also puts everything in front of the motor and lower than the tops of the valve covers. Ordered it a week and a half ago and UPS dropped off a present for me last week.

    First thing I ran into was having to move the motor back. I ran to the local hardware store and bought some new grade 8 bolts and spacers. Got the motor on the hoist and moved it back about 3/4 of an inch. That gives me about 1/4 inch clearance from the steering rack.

    After that I started putting all the parts from the kit.







    Go the belts on and now need to run the wires back to everything.




    On another note... Ended up getting a new garage mascot. I had just turned around towards the bench and saw some weird movement. This Dove was stunned or something because he did not fight very much when I picked him up. Once I was holding him he did not struggle at all.




    I set him on the grill expecting him to fly off but he just sat there.





    I ended up picking him up again and putting him in a tree in the back yard. He was still there about 15 minutes later, but when I checked on him after an hour he was not in the tree and no where in the yard.


    Tim
    Last edited by TDSapp; 06-03-2019 at 11:32 AM. Reason: Correct Spelling
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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  41. #269
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    Tim, you probably already have an answer for the tire to body clearance but if I remember its in the 2.5" range. I had to run the rear shock spring collars way up. I have the rear fenders on and so far no rubbing issues.

  42. #270
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Actually I exchanged some email with FFR and they said that an inch and a half would be fine. I am guessing that with how stiff the suspension is on the Hot Rods there is not much movement.


    Tim
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  43. #271
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    I appreciate your thread!

  44. #272
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luinidas View Post
    I appreciate your thread!

    I glad it has helped. That is why I keep posting here. I also have everything on my web site to include a budget where I have tracked everything I have spent. There is a link to it in my signature.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  45. #273
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    So yesterday I finished the plumbing and plugged all the leaks in the cooling system. That mostly involved putting on a couple hose clamps on the short heater hose I am using to bypass the heater core. Then putting a couple plugs in a couple holes in the heads. It appears to be holding water with no leaks anywhere.

    I used the FFR setup for the top hose but had trouble with the bottom. There was no way that the hose adapter FFR supplied was going to fit on the water pump outlet, and I was unable to get it on the radiator fitting as well. I had to go to O'Reilly and buy a heater hose and cut it up to make something that worked for the lower hose.



    With that done I started on finishing up the wiring and trying to turn the motor over. I wired up the starter, the alternator, and the only two sensors on the car (water temp and oil Pressure).

    I ran my hand up under the dash and connected the cable for the gauge cluster and got it plugged in too. At least that way I will be able to see what the water temp and oil pressure are at. Now I am ready to see if the engine turns and if I can adjust the Carb float levels.


    (Yeah I know you adjust the float levels on the other side, but this is the picture I took. )

    I turned the key and nothing! Durh… I forgot to put the fuses into the fuse block. Not going to get much action with out them.

    I found the diagram that shows what size fuse to use in each spot and got them into place. I grabbed the key again and still nothing. I made sured the battery shutoff was in the correct position and that the battery was actually connected. Yes, everything appeared to be good. I was still getting nothing. I grabbed my volt meter and was going to check for voltage at the starter and decided that I was going to start at the beginning.

    I put the meter on the battery leads and bang… 1.7 volts. What?!? This is a new Red Top Optima battery that I had not even used. I put a charger on it and it kept going into fault mode. I could not put a charge on the battery either. So I pulled the battery and went back to O’Reilly Auto and got it replaced. While there I did notice that the corner of the battery top had a small crack in it. I don’t recall it being there before but they replaced it anyway.

    When I got home it was getting late and hot so I just unloaded it and hopefully today when I get home from work I will be able to put some gas in the tank and get the carb adjusted.


    Once the carb is adjusted I will prime the oiling system with a drill and an oil primer. After that, bring #1 cylinder up to compression stroke, stab the distributer and connect the plug wires to the cap. Once done with that I should be able to start the motor. I will probably wait to start it on the 4th... I have some family that wants to be there when I start it the first time.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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  47. #274
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Jul 2015
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    So yesterday I got into the garage early and was looking forward to getting the motor started. I put the battery close to the battery cables and connected it. Well, first I tested the voltage and found around 12.5 volts, then I hooked it up. Did not want to find and issue after putting it all together again.

    Went around and turned on the key… Nothing… No Fuel pump noise or anything. Then I noticed my power cut off was still off. Turned it on and got my fuel pump noise I was looking for. Turned off the key and dang it! My fuel pump was still running.

    Figured it had to be the wiring so I started to trace it.


    With the American Autowire the fuel pump power comes from the accessory feed plug. (Go Figure… It’s not with the rear body wires like the gas gauge and rear tail lights.) I had the fuel pump wire plugged into 106 and not 103. Once I moved it over the fuel pump worked as expected.



    Now I turned the key to make sure the engine would turn over and got nothing but the hum of the fuel pump. Sigh… Back to tracing wires again.

    Happily it was the first place I looked, the neutral safety switch (NSS). With the shifter in park it was not closing the NSS so the start signal was never getting to the starter.

    So now I had to pull a bunch of wires that were ran through the transmission cover and remove the cover. I spent the next hour to hour and a half getting the shifter where it needed to be. Now I turn the key and the engine turns over. Success!




    Now I am finally able to get the carb adjusted and that much closer to starting. Except it was time to go in and shower up for church. Had a great time at church and on the way home stopped and got some gas for the Hot Rod. Got home and changed back into work clothes and got back to it. I put gas in the tank and turned the key and got the fuel pump hum. Grabbed the flash light and started looking for fuel leaks.

    NO LEAKS!




    But wait… There’s more! There is no gas either. I pulled the view port on the side of the carb and it is still bone dry.





    OK, so I figure that maybe the two gallons of gas I put in the tank was not enough. So I got the “Big can” of gas and headed back to the gas station. The can holds up to five gallons of gas and I filled ‘er up. The can held the gas great but it was on the way home that I discovered that the handle (Which is part of the tank) has a split in it. Every time I hit my brakes or turned a corner it would splash out. Sigh! I wish I had not decided to take my wife’s Durango. It did not lose very much gas and I tried to clean up the gas but apparently not enough.

    I got a text message from an upset wife wanting to know why her truck smelled like gas.



    Anyhow, I added probably around two more gallons of gas and tried it again. Apparently with everything being dry, all the hoses, the pump and filter, it does not pull enough of a vacuum to prime the gravity feed. Tonight when I get home from work I am going to try and pressurize the fuel tank and see if I can get some gas down to the pump. For some folks this has worked and they never had problems again. Crossing the fingers.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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  49. #275
    Senior Member
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    Jul 2017
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    I don't think the fuel pick up will pick up on the bottom of the tank, I have run mine out of gas a couple of times even though I know there are a couple of gallons of gas. (using a mechanical fuel pump) I have put a piece of tape on the fuel gauge at the 3/8 full line and will consider that as empty.

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