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Thread: #998 Build Page

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by 60's Kid View Post
    What is the cost difference once you delete the FF tank
    To be honest. I don't remember. I just knew that I didn't want to fight the issues with the factory tank.

  2. #42

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    In 4-16 I got a $195 credit for deleting the fuel tank and associated components, IIRC. Keith

  3. #43
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    I have managed to work on some of the several projects I have going on the build at the same time. The rear brake hydraulics and emergency brakes are finished. The steering linkage is done but a little tighter than I would like. I'll have to investigate that. One side of the front brakes is complete. I should finish the other side tonight. I may start on the fuel system this weekend or drilling the sheet metal for the floor pan etc.IMG_0916.JPGIMG_0917.JPGIMG_0918.JPGIMG_0919.JPGIMG_0920.JPGIMG_0921.JPG

  4. #44
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    I managed to get some things done during the holiday vacation. I found a set of tires for $100 she is now a rolling chassis. Once she was sitting on the ground I realized just how low these things sit. It's going to be like driving a 500 hp go cart.........AWESOME!!!!!!IMG_0985.JPG I got the fuel system plumbed. IMG_0968.JPGIMG_0969.JPG I also finished the transmission mount spacer and did a preliminary check of the drive line angles. Do these look close? IMG_0970.JPGIMG_0977.JPGIMG_0979.JPG

  5. #45
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    I sure was hoping to get the rest of the Lizard Skin sprayed during the holidays, but with temperatures hoovering in the twenties and thirties most of the time, that did not happen. I did manage to get all of the aluminum drilled and some of the frame (boring), but at least it's progress. Today it's back to work. The closer I get to retirement, the harder it is to go back after two weeks off.

  6. #46
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    I decided the engine bay needed a little color. The valve covers may be next.IMG_0991.JPG

  7. #47
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    No work yesterday. It was 25 degrees and sleeting. This morning it was 15 with a wind chill of -2 outside and 33 in the shop.

  8. #48
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    No work yesterday. It was 25 degrees and sleeting. This morning it was 15 with a wind chill of -2 outside and 33 in the shop.
    I feel ya... This morning it was 7 here in Frisco. Even with my propane heater it's hard to get much work done when it is that cold.


    Tim
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    I feel ya... This morning it was 7 here in Frisco. Even with my propane heater it's hard to get much work done when it is that cold.


    Tim
    Tomorrow morning won't be much better, but on the bright side it should be near 70 this weekend. I might even be able to spray some Lizard Skin. You gotta love Texas weather.

  10. #50
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    I know the feeling it was 13 this morning, had a water pipe burst at the garage and spent all afternoon repairing it. only got up to 33 this afternoon.

  11. #51
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    I was able to work on the car some this weekend. The starter and heat shield came in Friday, so I installed them first. It was not a direct bolt in and required fitting of the heat shield, but that's what makes it fun. IMG_1003.JPG My transmission dipstick also arrived, so it went in next. I cant decide exactly where I want it attached to the firewall.IMG_1008.JPGIMG_1009.JPG Then I installed the new Hooker exhaust manifolds. Ooops... I forgot about studs, nuts, and gaskets for the down pipes, so it was off to the auto parts store. IMG_1005.JPGIMG_1004.JPG Saturday the new shifter arrived from Lokar. I haven't had time to even open the packaging but it looks super cool.IMG_1007.JPG The A/C and front accessory drive should be here this week. All in all it was a good weekend.

  12. #52
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    Looking good

  13. #53
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    Does anyone have a recommendation on how to break the crankshaft bolt loose on an LS3? I understand
    It is torqued to 240 lb. ft. Maybe something that will hold the flex plate?
    Thanks,
    Andy

  14. #54
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    Retailers like Summit Racing carry flywheel holding tools that keep the flywheel or flex plate from turning.

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    Retailers like Summit Racing carry flywheel holding tools that keep the flywheel or flex plate from turning.
    Thanks NAZ. I ordered one yesterday. It should be here tomorrow. It's a bit pricey but if it works it will be worth it. I've got my 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and cheater pipe ready.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  16. #56
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    I have had a problem with the FF down pipe hitting the frame on the right side. IMG_1010.JPGI worked all day Saturday loosening motor mounts shifting things around etc. I finally got the laser out to check the drive train alignment. IMG_1023.JPG At the end of the day this was the best I could do. I hope it is enough.IMG_1024.JPG Someone suggested prying between the frame and down pipe, but I was afraid of shattering a brand new set of Hooker manifolds. Cast iron and stainless are both pretty brittle. On a better note the accessory drive and A/C came in on Friday. IMG_1025.JPG That will give me plenty to work on in the upcoming weeks and I can start the wiring.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  17. #57
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    Funny, with my SBC setup I have over an inch clearance there - but the curve on that same downpipe is hard against the chassis rail in the engine bay. But without a transmission yet I'm still hoping to have the adjustment I need.
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, GT500 wheels

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Funny, with my SBC setup I have over an inch clearance there - but the curve on that same downpipe is hard against the chassis rail in the engine bay. But without a transmission yet I'm still hoping to have the adjustment I need.
    It just seems odd. I have probably 1/2 inch of clearance on the driver side. Left Down Pipe.JPG I tried swapping sides but that makes it worse.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  19. #59
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    Well I broke the crankshaft bolt loose last night. It's amazing how easy things are when you have the right tools.IMG_1027.JPGIMG_1030.JPGIMG_1032.JPG This little jewel was worth it's weight in gold. However why is it soooo..... much harder to pull 240 lb. ft. of torque now, than it was 30 years ago?
    Thanks,
    Andy

  20. #60
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    Yay for one-time-use tools....

    ::

  21. #61
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    Man, that's some fancy tool. I just stick an old crowbar in there that happens to mesh with teeth pretty well. I love the length of that breaker bar LOL
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, GT500 wheels

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Man, that's some fancy tool. I just stick an old crowbar in there that happens to mesh with teeth pretty well. I love the length of that breaker bar LOL
    I couldn't use the pry bar. I ran out of hands and the wife refused to get on the creeper. lol! I knew I had saved that old jack handle for something.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxMike64 View Post
    Yay for one-time-use tools....

    ::
    I hope I don't need it again, but you never know. I think it will fit most all GM V8's.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  24. #64
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    Is there a reason to/or not to go ahead and fill the drive train with fluids?
    Thanks,
    Andy

  25. #65
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    Is there a reason to/or not to go ahead and fill the drive train with fluids?
    Is there a chance that you are going to have to pull the motor and trans again? If not then fill and forget. But if you don't fill it... make sure you don't forget it. Heard of several motors get ruined when they got Go-Fever and forgot to put in the fluids before starting it.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Is there a chance that you are going to have to pull the motor and trans again? If not then fill and forget. But if you don't fill it... make sure you don't forget it. Heard of several motors get ruined when they got Go-Fever and forgot to put in the fluids before starting it.
    Exactly Tim!! I don't plan on pulling the motor again. I do maintain a list of "to do's" on a white board in the shop, but why take a chance. That would be one expensive mistake. Thank you.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    I hope I don't need it again, but you never know. I think it will fit most all GM V8's.
    Some of the LS harmonic balancer bolts are 1 time use. You might look at the ARP bolt to replace the stock one. Also if you are going to pull or move the harmonic balancer you should look at the Preform Installation Tool 66519.
    Don't beat on the balancer with a hammer. Also on the exhaust, you will have some more fit work todo when you bolt the flat pipe on the back of the down pipe, on the passenger side. It has to go through frame and it is tight. I made sure the
    flat pipe did not touch the frame... The flat pipes don't come with stage 1 so if you only have stage 1 then you will need to wait for stage 2 to get the flat pipes and mufflers.

  28. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by bakerboerne View Post
    Some of the LS harmonic balancer bolts are 1 time use. You might look at the ARP bolt to replace the stock one. Also if you are going to pull or move the harmonic balancer you should look at the Preform Installation Tool 66519.
    Don't beat on the balancer with a hammer. Also on the exhaust, you will have some more fit work todo when you bolt the flat pipe on the back of the down pipe, on the passenger side. It has to go through frame and it is tight. I made sure the
    flat pipe did not touch the frame... The flat pipes don't come with stage 1 so if you only have stage 1 then you will need to wait for stage 2 to get the flat pipes and mufflers.
    Thanks. I didn't have to remove the balancer. The accessory drive came with a new bolt to attach the adapter and pulley. I hope to order stage 2 in April.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  29. #69
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    This weekend I managed to get the EVAP purge valve bracket modified and relocated. IMG_1040.JPG I modified the water pump and attached the steam hose thanks to Wallace 18. IMG_1036.JPG I mounted the inner firewall panel. I have two layers of Dynamat on the firewall and one layer on the inner firewall. Hopefully that will help keep the heat out of the cockpit. IMG_1039.JPG And last but not least I mounted the engine accessory drive and all the shiny stuff. CVF Racing really makes some quality pieces and it uses an eight groove serpentine system not six. IMG_1042.JPG
    Thanks,
    Andy

  30. #70
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    I bled the brakes last night. A task I have been dreading for sometime now, after reading some of the stories on this forum. As it turns out my concern was for nothing. Forty five minutes and it was done. A firm pedal and no leaks (so far). I credit my success to two things. I used copper gaskets on all flare fittings and a brake bleeder from Amazon. The best $25 I have ever spent.IMG_1046.JPG
    Thanks,
    Andy

  31. #71
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    How did you guys determine where to mount the evaporator/blower assembly? (both vertically and horizontally) Pictures are welcomed.
    Last edited by HVACMAN; 02-14-2018 at 10:15 AM.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  32. #72
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    Well.... I managed a little time to work on the car this weekend. I installed the bulkhead fitting for the a/c and heater fittings. I did manage to fabricate the mounting brackets and spacers for the evaporator/heater assembly and get it mounted. Sunday afternoon I combed through the auto parts stores and finally found a quick connect fitting for the purge solenoid to fuel vapor canister line. I spent hours online looking for this fitting and my last resort was going to be the salvage yard.IMG_1058.JPGIMG_1057.JPGIMG_1055.JPG Progress is slow but it seems that in the Spring the "honey do list" grows daily.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  33. #73
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    I received a replacement set of Hooker exhaust manifolds. I had ordered the ceramic titanium coated ones hoping they would hold up better. Wrong!! This is what they looked like after three weeks static on the car (I am still months away from a first start). IMG_1051.JPGIMG_1052.JPG For some reason the right side was much worse than the left. I am not taking any chances. I thoroughly cleaned, primed and painted the new manifolds with VHT header paint. Then I baked them according to the directions in the gas grill. I think I got that idea from Road Racer. However..... I did discover the limitations of a meat thermometer. Apparently they have a problem with temperatures above 480 degrees F. lol
    I also started getting ready to bench calibrate the a/c unit.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  34. #74
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    I am at a standstill on the a/c for the time being. After doing the bench calibration, I did a function test and all worked fine except the blend air servo. I spent several days on the phone with tech. support and to make a long story short, I had to send the cpu, harness, and servo motor back to the manufacturer. My money is on the servo motor. IMG_1060.JPG I spent Saturday doing chores around the house, then Sunday I decided to get the engine harness out of the box. IMG_1063.JPGIMG_1062.JPG Since then I have had it on and off of the car several times. I should have installed it on the engine before it was installed in the car, but hind sight is 20-20. I decided to install the LS fuse panel and the ECM inside car. IMG_1077.JPG The fuse panel is "weather proof" ,but I won't be running a hood or side panels, so when I originally had it in the engine compartment it just made me uncomfortable. Sooo.... off the car it came and I moved it inside.IMG_1075.JPGIMG_1076.JPG
    Last edited by HVACMAN; 03-08-2018 at 03:49 PM. Reason: added an image
    Thanks,
    Andy

  35. #75
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    Last night I finalized the majority of the engine harness and started on the transmission harness.IMG_1079.JPGIMG_1078.JPGIMG_1080.JPG I hope i'm not making a mistake trying to put the LS fuse panel inside the car. I was also excited to learn that the transmission has a feature for standard or performance mode by simply providing a ground on the A/B terminal.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  36. #76
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    I spent the weekend catching up on things around the house. You have to love an early spring. Mowing grass the second week of March is always entertaining. I did manage to get the transmission harness installed and took time to sit down and read all of the instruction on the LS3 and the 4L70E. I found out the the tranny also has a manual mode and it includes a laptop interface and software to adjust shift points and firmness. IMG_1081.JPG Now where am I going to hide all of this and still keep it accessible??
    Thanks,
    Andy

  37. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    I spent the weekend catching up on things around the house. You have to love an early spring. Mowing grass the second week of March is always entertaining. I did manage to get the transmission harness installed and took time to sit down and read all of the instruction on the LS3 and the 4L70E. I found out the the tranny also has a manual mode and it includes a laptop interface and software to adjust shift points and firmness. IMG_1081.JPG Now where am I going to hide all of this and still keep it accessible??
    I almost forgot. I have the chassis fuse box that has to fit in there somewhere. That is an ECM, TCM, two fuse panels, and the a/c control board. I hope to start mocking it up this evening.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  38. #78
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    Is there a reason why I canít mount the chassis fuse panel to the left of the steering column? Iím running an automatic trans. No clutch.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  39. #79

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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    Is there a reason why I can’t mount the chassis fuse panel to the left of the steering column? I’m running an automatic trans. No clutch.
    I just started on the wiring today. Not sure how you intended to mount that flimsy panel on the left side. I tried to see if it would fit but found the space was too small for the panel. I mounted it on the right side.

  40. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    I just started on the wiring today. Not sure how you intended to mount that flimsy panel on the left side. I tried to see if it would fit but found the space was too small for the panel. I mounted it on the right side.
    Thanks Jim. I was going to mount a panel to the angle brace on the pedal box. It appears it might barely fit.
    Thanks,
    Andy

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