#998 Build Page

[RoadRacer]

This weekend was cold (45 in the shop) but I insulated the hardtop Saturday and positioned the rollbar. Today I fabricated brackets for the headrests and test fit them on the rollbar. Next I sat in the car to decide on the headrest location on the brackets. The most comfortable position seems to be where the top contacts the head just over half way up and the bottom contacts approximately half way down the neck. does this seem safe? I think I will provide hole to allow moving them up and down ~2 inches. Now I need to decide the location fore and aft. Suggestions?

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I always go sit in my wife's car and see where manufacturers put things like this (I remember doing this for pedals, positioning gear stick, etc, etc). You know they'll put headrests where they're supposed to be. I often think about headrests when I'm sat in a turn lane and see cars whizzing up behind me...

[HVACMAN]

I always go sit in my wife's car and see where manufacturers put things like this (I remember doing this for pedals, positioning gear stick, etc, etc). You know they'll put headrests where they're supposed to be. I often think about headrests when I'm sat in a turn lane and see cars whizzing up behind me...

Thanks James. That is kind of what I did. I don't care for my GMC. Too high, so I used the wifes Ram for reference and feel.
I know what you mean about people speeding up behind you. I've had a quadruple cervical fusion and I hold my breath until they come to a stop. lol

[peterh226]

This weekend was cold (45 in the shop) but I insulated the hardtop Saturday and positioned the rollbar. Today I fabricated brackets for the headrests and test fit them on the rollbar. Next I sat in the car to decide on the headrest location on the brackets. The most comfortable position seems to be where the top contacts the head just over half way up and the bottom contacts approximately half way down the neck. does this seem safe? I think I will provide hole to allow moving them up and down ~2 inches. Now I need to decide the location fore and aft. Suggestions?

Attachment 160326Attachment 160326Attachment 160327

I'm planning something similar. What does the lower part of the Headrest bracket attach to? I was thinking of running a bar across the car. Did you make or buy the headrest pad?

[HVACMAN]

I'm planning something similar. What does the lower part of the Headrest bracket attach to? I was thinking of running a bar across the car. Did you make or buy the headrest pad?

Hi Peter. The lower part of the bracket will be cut off once I determine a final length. The headrest pads come from Monster Scooter Parts and they are for a Jazzy Select Elite power chair. By the way your build is amazing.
https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/...xoCr4MQAvD_BwE

[HVACMAN]

Started removing the drivers door this afternoon. FF is sending a replacement. Any issues on the newer doors?

[33fromSD]

Started removing the drivers door this afternoon. FF is sending a replacement. Any issues on the newer doors?

My issue with Gen2 doors on the Gen2 body is the fiberglass shells themselves were fine, holding the empty shells up to the body everything lined up great. The issues I ran into and I documented it in my build post was the metal door brackets / supports were bent wrong so before I noticed that, after I installed the door shells on the door frame they wouldn't fit (lots of bowing, and out of alignment). Once I noticed the issues with the metal and fixed that, I had no issues with my doors, they fit great.

Jim

[peterh226]

I agree with Jim. The doors fit ok but move all over the place as you attach all of the steel pieces. I started to make the steel follow the fiberglass and got better fit in some areas. Don’t forget that the body flexes a lot around the door opening as well. Look what happens as you push and attach the area at the door sill. The body is a big learning curve for us newbies. Hang in there and go work on something else when you get frustrated.

[HVACMAN]

My issue with Gen2 doors on the Gen2 body is the fiberglass shells themselves were fine, holding the empty shells up to the body everything lined up great. The issues I ran into and I documented it in my build post was the metal door brackets / supports were bent wrong so before I noticed that, after I installed the door shells on the door frame they wouldn't fit (lots of bowing, and out of alignment). Once I noticed the issues with the metal and fixed that, I had no issues with my doors, they fit great.

Jim

Thanks for the help Jim. The main concern I had with the door, beside the twist, was the fact that with the outer belt line aligned, the top of the door was ~1/4 inch lower than the body. I could build it up but the top of the door is already very thick.

[HVACMAN]

I agree with Jim. The doors fit ok but move all over the place as you attach all of the steel pieces. I started to make the steel follow the fiberglass and got better fit in some areas. Don’t forget that the body flexes a lot around the door opening as well. Look what happens as you push and attach the area at the door sill. The body is a big learning curve for us newbies. Hang in there and go work on something else when you get frustrated.

Thanks Peter. lol That is what I've been doing for the last year. work on it for the door until the frustration level started on an upward curve then move to something else.

[Blade]

I had the same issue. I could get the belt line to match up but the top of the door was off a 1/4 inch. Then I discovered that after putting on the aluminum pieces that hold the felt on the top of the door and filling and molding it to the top of the door it came out pretty darn close.window door trim.jpgboth doors on and latches work.jpg I cut the aluminum to fit the top of the door, used some self tapping screws to hold it, applied panel bond to underside of alum. once set, took out the screws and filled,sanded, and primed. these pics are the best I have.

[HVACMAN]

We had a heatwave today, it was 29 this morning but warmed to 60 this afternoon. I worked on the headliner today. I made a template out of masking paper, then glued it to cardboard. I then cut it out oversize and test fit. I kept trimming and testing until I was satisfied. Then I transfered the pattern to 3/16 fiberboard and cut it out. Then I started the sanding and fitting process. After a couple of hours it was a loose fit (I left room for the vinyl). I found some vinyl on Amazon that matches the pleated seats. If i don't like it, I can always tear it out and use the vinyl intended for the waterfall.

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[HVACMAN]

I made it to the Houston Auto & Boat Show yesterday. It consisted mostly of Auto Manufacturers showing off new and prototype vehicles but there were also some classics to be seen. Here are a few pictures.IMG_1292[1].jpgIMG_1295[1].jpgIMG_1298[1].jpgIMG_1294[1].jpgIMG_1293[1].jpg

A little off the subject but we also got to see Mercury's new 600 hp outboard. What an engineering masterpiece. It is a naturally asperated 7.6 liter Digital fuel injected V-12 with twin counter rotating props. The powerhead is stationary and the lower unit articultes for steering. I was amazed.

[JimLev]

Any pics of that V-12?

[J R Jones]

Jim, I did Mercury development for more than ten years. Carl's old two stroke I6 was known as the "Tower of Power" but I doubt they will call the V12 the "Twin Tower"

https://www.tradeonlytoday.com/.prev...ource=hs_email

jim

[HVACMAN]

Any pics of that V-12?

I wish I had taken some pictures. I was so amazed and the show was closing, I totally forgot. One side of the engine was cut away, so it was interesting trying to identify all the components. The bore appeared to be ~3 inches. Now that I think about it, I'm really kicking my self for not taking photos.

[McGuyver]

My son brought home a couple of pictures. Here’s the V-12 and cut away on a V-8 or V-6? He actually had a 5 sec video that shows how the power head is stationary and the gearbox pivots. 0BA48DF6-BCC3-4DE2-B807-4647B5923AA1.jpg034608A7-C1C2-4A78-818C-06B2C03FF880.jpg

[Jeff33Ford]

My son looked this up too. Pretty crazy. I was shocked he said it was $77k. I thought it would be more considering boat prices.

[HVACMAN]

Once again life stuck it's foot in the door but this tme it just slowed me down for a bit. I have the headliner installed. The pictures below are the second attempt. The first was perfect except I glued the fabric to the wrong side of the fibre board. Like everything else on the car, the cut out in the tops iner liner is not symmetrical, so flipping it over was not an option. I threw it in the garbage and started over. I cut a new backer, sanded it to fit, only to find the material was on backorder. Eventually the material arrived and I was able to get it installed on the correct side of the backer this time. As of today it is installed in the hardtop.

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[Brave Salmon]

I'm curious as to why you installed it before paint? Is it removable?

[HVACMAN]

I'm curious as to why you installed it before paint? Is it removable?

Excelent question. The answer to your question is: no it is not removable. I will mask it off when and if the day for paint ever comes. Once the windshield, rear window, and wiper are installed, I will push for registration and drive it. My intension was never to build a show car, but to perform every aspect of the build myself and enjoy the experience, which I have done so far. Paint and bodywork are two things I have never done in my lifetime but I will attempt it when the time comes. It's just paintand if it's not right sand it off and paint it again. My original goal (I know my limitations) was to build a fifty fifty car. It looks good at fifty feet going fifty miles per hour and drive the snot out of it.

[Brave Salmon]

I did the same thing with my Gen1. Every nut bolt, rivet, wire and drop of paint was done by me. LIke me, you'll be one proud puppy when you finish it off and then you can truly say "Built, not Bought". have a great time and enjoy the paint process. I had a ball doing mine but I'll never do another one for sure!