#998 Build Page

[HVACMAN]

Is that a cabinet hinge? How do you like it. I just used regular small hinges for mine and I think they're janky.

It is a RV cabinet hinge. I like it. It seems to be sturdy plus it stays in the open or closed position without a latch or spring.

[HVACMAN]

I don't know exactly how far you are from Beaumont (or what the county break-down is around that area), but I believe there is a Christian Brothers Automotive in Beaumont. I know they are a chain, but the local CBA here was able to perform my Safety Inspection and had (1) Certified Master Technician on hand. I had to schedule a two hour window with him, but they were extremely knowledgeable and very cooperative...may be worth a try at least.

Thanks Jamie. I'll check them out. I'm about 20 minutes (same county) from Beaumont.

[HVACMAN]

And this is what the console looks like assembled. Now on to wiring it. I hope to condense the wiring to one modular plugs. IMG_0385.JPGIMG_0386.JPG

I mounted the trunk lid and squared it up in the opening and it looks good except for where the lid meets the rear cowl (for lack of a better word) apparently the cowl has a wave in it. It's flush on the corners and the center but high on each side of the center. IMG_0387.JPGIMG_0388.JPG What should I do to fix this?

[JimLev]

My rear cowl was high too, the middle being the worst. I used L-brackets to pull it down.
See post 367 for pics.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Build/page10

[rapidray]

I did the same thing as Jim worked great! I also added an adjustable rod from the frame to the latch, made it real sturdy and easy to close. Ray

[cob427sc]

I made up a little bracket also to adjust the rear cowl height and I've adjusted several times over the course of the build. Thought I had it set perfectly and then later on I opened the trunk quickly - you guessed it - chipped the paint! seems like as the body "matures" the doors and trunk move around a little. Now that everyhting is painted, I've got to go back and play with the doors once more. Just hpoe I don't have anymore sanding - or worse - have gaps to big.

[HVACMAN]

Thanks for all the suggestions for the cowl. I have Tim Whittakers adjustable support. I think I will use it to maintain the center height then use Jim's idea to take the wave out. Thanks for the pictures Ray. As usual this forum save the day.

[HVACMAN]

I finally have the console ready to go back into the car. It has been a long haul but I needed it off of my table so I can work on the trunk lid. The end of last week I finished the filling, sanding, and shooting it with epoxy primer sealer. I assembled it Saturday and installed the wiring. I initially thought the switches would go to one modular plug for quick removal. I guess I should have given it more thought. lol By the time i finished it took a 12 way plug, two four way weather pack plugs, and two two way weather pack plugs. That doesn't include the plug for the fan switch, headlight switch, and the start button. IMG_0395.jpgIMG_0399.jpgIMG_0400.jpgIMG_0402.jpgIMG_0455.jpgIMG_0453.jpgIMG_0425.JPGIMG_0452.JPG
I also had trouble finding a five-way toggle switch plate in polished aluminum, so I bought one in mat finish and polished the border to match the rocker panel, a/c controls, and the shifter trim ring. Now it shines like a diamond in a goats part that went over the fence last. IMG_0418.jpgIMG_0423.jpg

[JOP33]

Console turned out great!

[HVACMAN]

Console turned out great!

Thanks Jamie!! It was a lot of work but Tim was right. It was worth it in the end.

[HVACMAN]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good epoxy primer? I used Max Spray on the console but it is very expensive and the coverage is not great.

[RoadRacer]

We set the body on for the first time last night. I'll take some measurements this weekend before it comes back off. It looks like a car now instead of an enlarged go cart. Attachment 108462Attachment 108463Attachment 108464

I'm reading through your build thread this morning (to see if you got a gen2 stage2 back then in 2018, it must have been close?) and had to stop and say I'm jealous of those rears!! Exactly what I'd hoped for until I found my GT500 set or wheels/tires for $500 . Something to aspire to later!

[HVACMAN]

I'm reading through your build thread this morning (to see if you got a gen2 stage2 back then in 2018, it must have been close?) and had to stop and say I'm jealous of those rears!! Exactly what I'd hoped for until I found my GT500 set or wheels/tires for $500 . Something to aspire to later!

I received a Gen1 for the most part, as best as I can tell. The headlights are Gen2. FFR had to send the 3B manual with the appropriate wiring instructions but all the body parts appear to be Gen1.

[HVACMAN]

Well.... I haven't posted in a couple of months. It turns out working from home is not all it's cracked up to be, but I tried to look at it as retirement practice. I retired on 6/30 and spent July doing retirement stuff, like moving investments and catching up on home projects. In between all that, I did find time to work on the car some. I installed Tim Whittaker's trunk lid pieces and hydraulic lifts. The transmission tunnel carpet is in along with the console, dash, and the Digital Guard Dawg, all are wired and everything works. I also started on the drivers door using Eric Hanson's videos for a guide. We'll see how that works out. IMG_0497.JPGIMG_0500.JPGIMG_0501.JPGIMG_0502.JPGIMG_0505.JPGIMG_0478.JPGIMG_0485.JPGIMG_0490.JPG

[HVACMAN]

I have the hinge slots completed on the drivers door and completed drilling the door frames for the power windows. So I started mounting the door/frame assembly on to the hinges and worked on it for a while but something just didn't look right. Boy do I feel stupid!! I had the passenger frame in the drivers door. I had to start over.

I worked on correcting my mistake yesterday and started trying to get everything lined up to mount the latch. I have done some frustrating things in my life but this is definitely in the top five. I finally walked away and will go back to it today. I now feel everyone's pain from the accounts I've read. At least it doesn't appear I have the warped doors some have experienced.

[RoadRacer]

Coincidentally, given our build numbers, I'm right behind you Picked up door hardware from powder coating this morning and that's this weekend's "fun"

[JimLev]

The power windows, ugh. Another part of the build that doesn’t quite follow the manual.
I couldn’t get the window motor assy to drop into the door when it had the mounting bracket mounted to it. I cut off part of the 90º bend where the bracket bolts to the door frame so I could get it in. You’ll see what I’m talking about when you get there.
Another thing the manual shows is the bracket the glass slides into gets bolted to the lift bracket using the bottom 2 holes. I had to use the top 2 holes so there would be some vertical track exposed at the top to drill the hole for the top window stop.
I’m also having trouble getting the window to even come close to sealing on the weather strip that goes on the window opening.
And the pieces that are suppose to slide into the window opening you cut in the top of the door won’t fit. The tops of my doors are pretty thick.
I’m using some 3/8 x 1/2” angle aluminum to trim the window opening and bought some parts that tcollins used to seal the glass at the door opening.
The hole you cut for the bearclaw lock needs to be enlarged too.

DSCN4305.JPG

Dscn4293a.jpg

And thanks to Wallace for this info.
Dscn4304a.jpg

[HVACMAN]

Coincidentally, given our build numbers, I'm right behind you Picked up door hardware from powder coating this morning and that's this weekend's "fun"

Good luck this weekend. I made some progress this afternoon. I have everything lined up and the hole drilled in the front through the latch mount and the screws in the rear door hinge plate. Now take it all apart to install the latch.?.?
IMG_0553.JPGIMG_0552.jpgIMG_0551.JPG

[HVACMAN]

The power windows, ugh. Another part of the build that doesn’t quite follow the manual.
I couldn’t get the window motor assy to drop into the door when it had the mounting bracket mounted to it. I cut off part of the 90º bend where the bracket bolts to the door frame so I could get it in. You’ll see what I’m talking about when you get there.
Another thing the manual shows is the bracket the glass slides into gets bolted to the lift bracket using the bottom 2 holes. I had to use the top 2 holes so there would be some vertical track exposed at the top to drill the hole for the top window stop.
I’m also having trouble getting the window to even come close to sealing on the weather strip that goes on the window opening.
And the pieces that are suppose to slide into the window opening you cut in the top of the door won’t fit. The tops of my doors are pretty thick.
I’m using some 3/8 x 1/2” angle aluminum to trim the window opening and bought some parts that tcollins used to seal the glass at the door opening.
The hole you cut for the bearclaw lock needs to be enlarged too.

DSCN4305.JPG

Dscn4293a.jpg

And thanks to Wallace for this info.
Dscn4304a.jpg

Thanks for the information Jim/Wallace. I will be using Tim's plans also for the power windows.

[HVACMAN]

Well 2020 refuses to relinquish. Two hurricanes in the gulf at the same time. Unprecedented!! You can't make this stuff up. I spent most all day doing preliminary hurricane preparation. I mowed the grass (rain all week at the very least), filled the vehicles with fuel, ran the generator for a bit, filled gas cans, and water cans. The car is up on jack stands and I have most items at least two feet off the floor. As it looks tonight, one will go 150 miles West of us and the other will pass 200 miles East. I've been through a lot of these and it pays to be prepared.

[FF33rod]

Yikes, good luck!
Steve

[RoadRacer]

Good luck.. it was storming pretty good in Austin, so I can only imagine what the coast is seeing.

[JOP33]

Well 2020 refuses to relinquish. Two hurricanes in the gulf at the same time. Unprecedented!! You can't make this stuff up. I spent most all day doing preliminary hurricane preparation. I mowed the grass (rain all week at the very least), filled the vehicles with fuel, ran the generator for a bit, filled gas cans, and water cans. The car is up on jack stands and I have most items at least two feet off the floor. As it looks tonight, one will go 150 miles West of us and the other will pass 200 miles East. I've been through a lot of these and it pays to be prepared.

Will keep you in our prayers...stay safe!

[JimLev]

Hope it changes direction and spares you.
Stay safe.

[HVACMAN]

Thanks Jim. Looks like you were good luck. What a difference 24 hours makes. It looks like both storms are going into Louisiana. We dodged a bullet this time. Only two months of hurricane season left. lol

Thanks to all.

[HVACMAN]

While finalizing hurricane preparations today I sneaked in some time on the drivers door. IMG_0560.JPG Look Ma no tape! It opens and latches. It just needs adjusting.

[FF33rod]

"just" needs adjusting, that is a project unto itself

Steve

[HVACMAN]

Looks like we won the hurricane lottery this year. I hope the car is still there when I get home.

[HVACMAN]

Electricity and internet came back on last night. What a long week.

[HVACMAN]

It's amazing the difference between the driver and passenger doors. I had the passenger door fit to the opening in less than 30 minutes and the inner and outer belt lines line up.

[fostia]

It's amazing the difference between the driver and passenger doors. I had the passenger door fit to the opening in less than 30 minutes and the inner and outer belt lines line up.

Yeah, my drivers is a POC. Im having to do a lot of bodywork to get everything right. Basically got the outside belt line aligned and then everything interior is mismatched and the door top is like a half inch too low. I had to also do the door twist trick by sandwiching a washer between the door and latch brackets for one of the two bolts.

[HVACMAN]

Yeah, my drivers is a POC. Im having to do a lot of bodywork to get everything right. Basically got the outside belt line aligned and then everything interior is mismatched and the door top is like a half inch too low. I had to also do the door twist trick by sandwiching a washer between the door and latch brackets for one of the two bolts.

I will have to learn how to do the door twist trick. Do you have any pictures? Mine is out at the bottom front about 1/4 inch. The inside belt line at the top is not going to be fun at all.

[Dodgeman]

My driver side door on my 1st gen is also out by 1/4-3/8" also. i need the twist trick too please.
I am beginning to wonder if I will ever finish the car, due to one problem after another.
How do you get the side panel sheet metal for the truck to fit properly? With mine I have 3/4-1" gap where the panel meets the body.

Any help would be appreciated.
Bob

[FF33rod]

Some are asking about the door twist trick. What I'm about to say is relevant to Gen 1 but the Gen 2 door frame design changed and I have no idea if you can do the same thing with it or not.

Let's assume that you're happy with the door height relative to the body, that the rear (hinge end) of the door is lined up nicely with the body both bottom and top and yet the front of the door is twisted - either the top of the door is sticking out or the bottom is. What you can do to fix that is use washers as shims between the inner door frame and the door latch mount. There are 2 bolts holding these pieces together and the washer(s) go in between the door latch mount and the door frame to create an angle between the two. Think of the door frame as the reference. Putting washers on the upper bolt will push the top of the door latch mount inward hence making the bottom of the door stick out further than the top. Putting washers on the lower bolt does the reverse, it pushes the bottom of the door latch mount inward causing the top of the door to stick out further than the bottom.

door frame.jpg

Hope that helps
Steve

[HVACMAN]

My driver side door on my 1st gen is also out by 1/4-3/8" also. i need the twist trick too please.
I am beginning to wonder if I will ever finish the car, due to one problem after another.
How do you get the side panel sheet metal for the truck to fit properly? With mine I have 3/4-1" gap where the panel meets the body.

Any help would be appreciated.
Bob

I think my gap was wider than that. I bought some weather striping on Amazon. I thought I had a picture but I can't find it. I'll take a couple tomorrow and post them here.

[HVACMAN]

Thanks Steve. It helps a bunch.

[HVACMAN]

Bob my trunk side gap was wide and I thought I had bought the stripping from Amazon but it actually came from Steel Rubber Products. https://www.steelerubber.com/top-lip...eal-70-3710-99 The pictures below show without & with the seal.

IMG_0596.JPG IMG_0597.JPG

[Dodgeman]

Thanks for the information, I going to order 6' of to also do the interior behind the waterfall where the side aluminum panel doesn't meet the body.
Bob

[HVACMAN]

Thanks for the information, I going to order 6' of to also do the interior behind the waterfall where the side aluminum panel doesn't meet the body.
Bob

For the rear cowl area I used some square foam insulation glued to the square tube. The body sits down on it and it compresses nicely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

IMG_0202.JPG

[JOP33]

For the rear cowl area I used some square foam insulation glued to the square tube. The body sits down on it and it compresses nicely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

IMG_0202.JPG

If there is one thing I wish I would have done a better job on my build with, it would be insulating and sealing the area (gaps) around the firewall to the body. I get a significant amount of hot air transferring from the engine bay through this area, to the point that it tends to over power any ac comfort. This will be a winter project for me, but it will be much more challenging now that the body is on than if I would have handled it when I should have.