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Thread: Brake Bleeding

  1. #1
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Brake Bleeding

    So I have this reoccurring nightmare that when I go to bleed the brakes that brake fluid will spew out of every fitting within the line plumbing! I then wake up in a cold sweat only to be faced with an infinite number of shock assemblies that I have to place the spacers and bolts on! With that being said, do any of ya'll have advice on protecting the paint and other items of interest during the brake bleeding process as I have been warned that brake fluid will remove craters off the moon?

    Thanks
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  2. #2
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    I have wilwood brakes just used a small hose to cup to get bleed fluid, no problem.

  3. #3
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    Brake fluid will damage even urethane paint, if left on for very long, but it shouldn't cause damage from brief contact. You're not building a car to put mirrors under it at an indoor show are you? Chassis paint can be touched-up, if necessary.

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    X2 on the small hose to a cup off the bleeder. Worked great and no mess.
    JRL16
    Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gasín sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.

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    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveS53 View Post
    Brake fluid will damage even urethane paint, if left on for very long, but it shouldn't cause damage from brief contact. You're not building a car to put mirrors under it at an indoor show are you? Chassis paint can be touched-up, if necessary.
    Ahhh...no mirrors here, at least that's not the intent. Heck I'm still trying to decide if I want mirrors on the car!
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  6. #6
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    Yep. Just get it off fast if it gets one paint. Clean well with a degreaser and ive never had an issue.
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I use a small Ball jar with a hole punched in the lid and some tubing attached to the bleeder. Keeps the fluid contained and easy to see bubbles. I don't like working with brake fluid either, but a little care and shouldn't be an issue. As mentioned, if you spill clean it up fast. I keep a rag handy at all times.

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    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Jop33,

    When I was at "The Chinese Slave Labor Tool Company" (AKA Harbor Freight) I bought a brake bleeder that not only catches the brake fluid it lets you bleed the brakes by yourself. You connect a tube to the bleeder valve and then pump a handle that pulls a vacuum through the system. The fluid gets dropped into a cup which you can then put back into the master cylinder. You just have to watch and make sure you do not let the master cylinder run dry or you get to start all over again.

    You can borrow it if you want.


    Tim
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  9. #9
    Member Tampa33Build's Avatar
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    I use a Schwaben's brake bleeding system. It applies pressure to your system. With pressure applied just open the bleed valve you wait for the brake fluid to run free of bubbles in the catch bottle. It will also allow you to pressure test the system without break fluid.

    It comes with a European reservoir cap and requires a different cap for the FFR reservoir. My kit will be here in two weeks so I cannot check on the cap. There are several other brands out there also.

    Neil

  10. #10
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Jop33,

    When I was at "The Chinese Slave Labor Tool Company" (AKA Harbor Freight) I bought a brake bleeder that not only catches the brake fluid it lets you bleed the brakes by yourself. You connect a tube to the bleeder valve and then pump a handle that pulls a vacuum through the system. The fluid gets dropped into a cup which you can then put back into the master cylinder. You just have to watch and make sure you do not let the master cylinder run dry or you get to start all over again.

    You can borrow it if you want.


    Tim
    LOL! Much appreciated Tim, but given the current traffic and construction situations between you and I, I think it would just be worth the trip to the "Harbor".
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  11. #11
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    So staying with the Brake Bleeding discussion...I have gone with a (2) reservoir set-up. One for the fronts and one for the rear. Since they are independent plumbing systems, but still are driven by the same pedal, while bleeding the rears, should I do anything to the fronts? I guess what I am asking is should I leave the fronts "open" during the rear bleeding or is it ok to close both systems, open the rears for bleeding, close and then bleed the fronts? Maybe I am putting too much thought into this as I hope someone understands what I am trying to ask and can provide some feedback, but I just don't want to damage the system in any way.

    Thanks
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  12. #12
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    So staying with the Brake Bleeding discussion...I have gone with a (2) reservoir set-up. One for the fronts and one for the rear. Since they are independent plumbing systems, but still are driven by the same pedal, while bleeding the rears, should I do anything to the fronts? I guess what I am asking is should I leave the fronts "open" during the rear bleeding or is it ok to close both systems, open the rears for bleeding, close and then bleed the fronts? Maybe I am putting too much thought into this as I hope someone understands what I am trying to ask and can provide some feedback, but I just don't want to damage the system in any way.

    Thanks
    You won't damage the system doing them one wheel at a time. Start with farthest and work down. Typically this is rear right, rear left, front right, front left. I use pressure bleeding with a cap on the CNC reservoir and 6-8 PSI of air pressure. So no brake pedal pumping, which is the traditional method. But it doesn't matter on the sequence. Note that some have found, and FF recommends, for the Wilwood pedal box/balance bar setup, that doing front and rear on each side at the same time is necessary. I haven't needed to do that. But something to keep in mind. In either case, you're not going to hurt anything with the way you have it plumbed, which is pretty typical BTW.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
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  13. #13

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    FF recommends, for the Wilwood pedal box/balance bar setup, that doing front and rear on each side at the same time is necessary.
    You must to do the front and rear together, if doing the old pump it method, because you can't get the Master Cylinders to completely collapse if you don't do the front and back concurrently. The balance bar simply won't allow it if you do the front and back separately since it won't allow you to bottom out your Master Cylinders. Start by doing a gravity feed, furthest runs first, before you do you final pedal pump bleed and you will be surprised at how well it goes.
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 06-30-2017 at 08:09 AM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    You must to do the front and rear together, if doing the old pump it method, because you can't get the Master Cylinders to completely collapse if you don't do the front and back concurrently. The balance bar simply won't allow it if you do the front and back separately since it won't allow you to bottom out your Master Cylinders. Start by doing a gravity feed, furthest runs first, before you do you final pedal pump bleed and you will be surprised at how well it goes.
    We had trouble bleeding our brakes this weekend. Just could not get the air out of the system. Then I saw this post. After reading dozens of posts where guys rambled on about all kinds of tools and theories this simple post with basic information (which now seems totally obvious to me) helped us get the job done in about 15 minutes. THANK YOU.

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