Matt's Gen2 65 Coupe Build Thread

[mtwarog]

With help from my Dad, we flipped the body over and put it back on the car. Every time we try to put the body back on, it seems as if it's not going to fit. Then after a few minutes of struggling, it pops right into place. This time I was more nervous putting it back on since I added all the trunk aluminum, dynamat etc. I figured this time it wouldn't fit, but I was wrong. The usual few minutes of struggle, then magically it's on.

I finally can see how those "wings" on the side trunk aluminum pieces will fit in. I always assumed they were meant to sit to the frame, but see now they will fit against the body and I'll tie them in later to seal between the inside and the outside.




There's a little bit of a gap between the front mount and the body that I'll have to shim up.


The back mount is just about touching


Zoomed out it looks pretty good


Little bit of a gap on the driver's side between the door sill and the frame


The passenger's side has a slightly bigger gap


-Matt

[mtwarog]

Since the wheels I bought had a 6.8" backspace vs. the 6" backspace of the FFR 17" x 9" Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, I knew I'd need some spacers to bring out the tires a bit.

With the nose on the car, I got around to getting some front wheel spacers.
After a few quick measurements, I decided 1" would put them where I wanted. The edge of the tires are set in about 3/4" at the top of the wheel arch.
I bought a set of: 25mm (1") 5x4.5 to 5x4.5 Black Hubcentric Wheel Spacers for Ford Mustang by Precision European Motorwerks



Now the front wheels fill out the nose a little better.




Looking from the back:



-Matt

[mtwarog]

Catching up on some miscellaneous pictures as I finished the wiper installation, the firewall insulation and painted the seats.

First the wiper installation. I posted a while back and getting them ready to install, but never finished it. I was hoping the tubes would be the correct length because it was time consuming to get them setup correctly. I unconnected the nut holding the tube to the motor and the cable slide right out. Greased it up and put it back in. I wasn't sure how much to put on and didn't use a ton, but hopefully enough around the cable to prevent it from binding or rusting (Sorry, no pics). We lifted the front of the body up enough to fit in and then slowly lowered the body, but the hole/notch that I cut in the body mount wasn't big enough. So got the dremel and made it bigger. Then it fell right into place.





After the test fit, picked the body back up and finished the insulation on the firewall. Used some more of the quadmat for this.




Now with the body back on.




Zoomed out it looks pretty good. I hope they don't break anytime soon after the body/windshield is on as it will be really difficult to service.

[mtwarog]

Finished up the insulation around the footbox and front of the transmission tunnel. Also finished snaking the rear speaker wires through the transmission tunnel and into the inside of the car.




Painted the seats and the slider.


-Matt

[Automan]

Hi, Get breakdown on your build. Fascinating. Fantastic job. Are you going to continue on with the remainder of your build here?

thanks
Nelson

[mtwarog]

Thanks Nelson.

Yeah, I'm going to continue to update the remainder of my build here. It just takes time to find the correct pictures to upload and replace the links. I try to get a couple updates posted every few days.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

It was time to get back to working on the doors. I setup the frame to open and close without the door on. I tried to adjust the door frame to be roughly parallel and still open and close. I wasn't exactly sure where the frame would line up inside the door, but figured I had to start somewhere.

First was to clamp the door to the frame to see where I need to cut for the latch now that the door shell was sitting in the correct position with the body.


Used my dremel to cut out the hole for the inside handle and shop-vac to keep the dust down.


Once the hole was made, then needed to fish the handle through from the inside.


Then I could close the door and mark where I needed to cut for the latch and made the cut.


Now the door could close and latch. Next was to loosen the bolts from the frame to the chassis and play around for a long time. Going back and forth between getting the door to latch, have the door frame sit flush against the door and getting the door to fit and open and close without rubbing against the body. This took a while.


Now repeat for the passenger side and started drilling and mounting the door to the frame


All 4 bolts in.