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Thread: Duff33 Build

  1. #161
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    Ok so here is amother interesting little twist, put in the head liner and proper gaskets thought I had installed the hard top for the final time. Then put the windshield inplace, didn't fit ( see post in body & interior). So, remove hardtop and find that the opening had a small bump on the side allowing the windshield to rock top to bottom. Groung down the bump and it fit, but the black edge of the windshiled is 3/4 and the flange that it sits against was 1 1/4, so made a adaptor for the dremel and cut the flange back, did the same for the rear window. Scariest thing I have done since the first start, keep in mind the hard top is now painted. Of course this opened up voids in the edge. June2019 014.JPG glassed and repaired those and had some paint left over and was able to touch up where it had be ground.
    Now ready to install windshield and back window, going to use 3m window weld, have read that it can be very messy so hopefully have everything masked off. June2019 017.JPGMy question is how much of a bead should I apply, need enough to completely cover at a uniform thickness but dont really want it squishing out all over the place?

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  3. #162
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    Windshield is in and it was relativly easy, did have everything masked off and maybe a little overboard but wanted to be safe. I could have uniformally applied more 3M than I did so that I did not have the voids, would have been better if it oozed out all the way around.June2019X2 002.JPG. Any place that it did oozed was easily cut away after it cured both inside and outside. I then ran a bead of black silicone around the edge (after masking off everything again), that filled in the gap and covered where there was not enough 3M.June2019X2 005.JPG. I would not be afraid to do it again.

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  5. #163
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Nice job! The car looks great!
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19

  6. #164
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    Received my VIN number yesterday from the state. I will post the story in Northeast Discussions. Making baby steps to get it on the road.

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  8. #165
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    Baby steps continue, set up insurance and went to the RMV and got a set of plates, BUT when I take it out on the street the motor will just die on me, sometimes 50 feet up the street, other time about a quarter of a mile. Acts like it runs out of gas, sputters and dies. All fuel filters are clean, plenty of gas in the tank. I put a clear fuel filter just before the carb and its always full. Motor will start right back up with out a problem. It will sit and idle all day long, rev to say 3000 rpm and it will hold it as long as you want. Motor has a quick fuel carburetor 302, vac advance, electronic distributor, pretty straight forward, AOD trans, nothing fancy. Timing is good. I am very confused, I think its fuel, a buddy seems to think its electrical. I know there are a lot of people out there much smarter than I am

  9. #166
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    I havenít been able to find a picture of your fuel lines, but my immediate thought is the carburetors floats are too low and the bowl is emptying.

    Do you have a fuel return line?
    Have you verified fuel pressure at the carburetor? You should be able to hold the fuel line and feel the pulse if itís mechanical...
    #1133 33 Hot rod

    MkI.IV 2643k

  10. #167
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    Carb has sight gauges on the sides and the level is mid way. No return line. If the bowels were emptying I don't think it would start right back up, you would have to crank and pump? Not sure what the fuel pressure is but you can feel it pulse. Just put a new coil on but that didn't make a difference. Under acceleration its good, but when it shifts and the rpm drop it starts to sputter, give it gas and it recovers, but on the back roads that's not such a great idea because it will get up and go, take your foot of the gas and she dies. This is a crate motor and it ran fine in the go cart stage and even when the body first went on. Going to put it up on jack stands and double check all fuel line just to make sure.

  11. #168
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    Sounds like either a ignition problem or fuel pressure. Have you checked the squirters to make sure that they’re delivering fuel when you open it up? If you pull the air cleaner and manually manipulate the throttle, you can see the two squirt nozzles work.
    #1133 33 Hot rod

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  12. #169
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    I had a situation where after sitting for several years the floats in my Holley would literally leak/fill up/sink. This was exacerbated by my regulator being positioned over the headers, albeit nearly a foot away. After about an hour of running the car would go completely rich. I replaced the float, the needles, and the power valve. We did re jet it.

  13. #170
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    Squirters work fine, when it starts to die if you kick it into neutral and pump the gas a little bit the motor will recover, then put it back into gear go a little bit and it dies again. Going to go be process of elimination, start with fuel delivery, carburetor is going to get dissected first.

  14. #171
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    It does sound like some type of fuel restriction issue. You mention fuel filters - how many do you have and where are they located? With a mechanical pump you probably only need one - after the pump, before the carb. Some aftermarket fuel filters are very restrictive and will cause problems if used on the suction side of the system.
    A wideband O2 gauge would be a huge help in determining rich/lean and can be invaluable for tuning not only efi but carb systems.

  15. #172
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    How about a stuck a needle and seat? Perhaps it’s flooding the bowl?
    #1133 33 Hot rod

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  17. #173
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    Aug 2019 Carb 049.JPGPulled the carb and took it apart, I am amazed at how much crud was in it, not exactly sure what it was, some of it seemed to be the gaskets falling apart? Aug 2019 Carb 040.JPGAug 2019 Carb 045.JPGAug 2019 Carb 047.JPG. There is a fuel filter just after the tank and a filter between the machanical pump and carb, double checked those and find no crud. Rebuilt kit has been ordered so it will be a few days to see if this is the issue.

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  19. #174
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    Wow, That’s awful. Definitely a good place to start. I did my last carburetor rebuild on the side of the road on power tour last year in Alabama. Too much ethanol and backcountry gas stations.


    Best of luck. I hope it helps.
    #1133 33 Hot rod

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  20. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by duff33 View Post
    Aug 2019 Carb 049.JPGPulled the carb and took it apart, I am amazed at how much crud was in it, not exactly sure what it was, some of it seemed to be the gaskets falling apart? Aug 2019 Carb 040.JPGAug 2019 Carb 045.JPGAug 2019 Carb 047.JPG. There is a fuel filter just after the tank and a filter between the machanical pump and carb, double checked those and find no crud. Rebuilt kit has been ordered so it will be a few days to see if this is the issue.
    Well that is certainly a problem! Do you use any stabilizer in your fuel? I use STA-BIL brand at twice the recommended dose and don't have any troubles. I also dump in a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil just before I park it for the winter. The gas in the coupe is 2 years old right now, and I know it'll start and run good. It's a pain in the butt sometimes to remember to add it but it saves me the headache your having right now.... I wanted to go bother you yesterday but I had/have to many chores that need to get done. But maybe this week?

  21. #176
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    That looks like corrosion from water in the fuel - either from condensation or absorbed from atmosphere (caused by ethanol content)

  22. #177
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    Carb has been rebuilt and I can go down the street without it dying. Still messing with metering screws for adjustment, making adjustments don't seem to make a difference. Putting on a vacuum gauge I have 0 inches at the carb nipple for the vac advance at idle, give it some RPM and I do have vac.

  23. #178
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    I assume the vacuum gauge is about the butterflies? Put it on full manifold to get a proper reading....
    #1133 33 Hot rod

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  24. #179
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    Check to ensure you're on the Ported Vacuum nipple, sounds like you're on the NON Ported side. You can go direct to the manifold if you have a port available.
    There should be a spot on the carb below the butterflies.

  25. #180
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    I have been on the nipple on the side of the metering block and on the nipples that are below the primary bowl, get zip for vacuum at idle on those, great vacuum at idle on the nipple for the pcv valve. I will probably "T" into that one

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