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Thread: Duff33 Build

  1. #81
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    Finally got to put some of the other projects on hold and get back to the hot rod, poor thing has been sitting in the garage just waiting for the first go cart ride up the street. Now some advice for those of you that are at that stage and they are really simple things that I overlooked. First, do a rough alignment of the front end, when the toe is off which ever tire grabs the road, thats the direction you are going to go, not straight, only takes about 100 feet to realize this isn't right. Back in the garage and take care of that. Second, make sure you have enough gas in the tank, so when you are a half mile up the street you dont run out of gas and eave the hot rod on the side of the street, walk back and get he gas can. Not he smartest thing to do.
    But other than those my first run up the street I am pleased with. I will do this a couple more times and hopefully post a video.

  2. #82
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    Wow, the first ride! I've been waiting and checking for an update... somewhat patiently too!

    Here's what I did over the weekend, yep gave the girl a bath..


    car wash small.jpg

  3. #83
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    good to see the coupe out in the sunshine

  4. #84
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    Looks fantastic

  5. #85
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    Thanks.. And Thanks!

    I had hoped to make some time to see the "go kart" but maybe next week. The to-do list didn't get short enough to go goofin off.. 8-)

  6. #86
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    After what seemed like weeks of working on the fit of the hardtop finally got the body and parts sanded and primed in white. Next is block sanding and drilling holes for gauges and door hardware.body parts in white 001.JPGbody parts in white 002.JPGbody parts in white 003.JPGbody parts in white 004.JPGbody parts in white 008.JPG

  7. #87
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    I have to install a windshield wiper, is the speedway wiper kit a good choice? Is there enough room under the dash without hitting the master cylinders?

  8. #88
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    There is a better and smaller system Raingear wipers that others have used. Also Dan makes a system. Can't talk to the room under the dash http://www.raingearwipers.com/

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  10. #89
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    Thank you for the info, I will check it out.

  11. #90
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    Speaking of vinyl wraps, my 33 is wrapped. If I was a little more IT savvy I would include a picture but the best picture I have won the Picture of the month for January 2018 on this forum. Shouldn't be too hard to find. The whole thing is wrapped including the white stripe.
    What TD Sapp said about the prep work is exactly right. I'm no body man but I did I did all the prep work myself. If you look real close you can see some "imperfections". Still it looks pretty good and the total coast was $3800. You will do well to get it painted for under $6 - 7 grand unless you do all the work yourself. My build was in the 3rd bay of my 3 car garage. Not a good paint booth... APEX Customs did the wrap. Phoenix AZ.

  12. #91
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    Hey mark
    Very nice looking ride. Was the white stripe over the black or an inlay? I am doing all the prep work myself also, I did put a wrap on the trunk lid, but it was just on the bench, so when I went to pull it tight the lid moved rather than the wrap stretching. Live and learn. I have pulled it off and am going to try again with help this time.
    Drilled all the holes in the dash for the gauges yesterday, hope to shoot some white paint on the inside of the hard top and the doors in the next couple of days when the humidity breaks, than hopefully the body back on the chassis this weekend.

  13. #92
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    The white stripe is over the black. APEX also put a beautiful carbon fiber looking wrap on the dash and the fiberglass panel behind the seats. It looks real nice. Lastly they made a beautiful foam padded carbon fiber looking headliner that's a huge upgrade to the fabric headliner in the kit.
    Hope this helps and good luck.

  14. #93
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    I would like to do the same for my dash, do you have a picture of your dash?

  15. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Joy View Post
    The white stripe is over the black. APEX also put a beautiful carbon fiber looking wrap on the dash and the fiberglass panel behind the seats. It looks real nice. Lastly they made a beautiful foam padded carbon fiber looking headliner that's a huge upgrade to the fabric headliner in the kit.
    Hope this helps and good luck.

    Mark,

    How did they handle the tight radius of the body line? I don't know what to call it but the half circle that runs from front to back. Is there an edge around that part of the body? Is it smooth?

    I also plan on doing a lot of the body work myself. I have heard that many paint shops will not agree to paint your body if they don't do the prep work. I have not talked to many paint shops yet since I am still quite a ways out. But the wrap guys are excited and really want to do the Hot Rod.



    Tim
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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  17. #95
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    I'll take some pictures tomorrow, sharpen my IT skills and send them over. One thing about a wrap is that no one makes a roll large enough to cover the roof so there will be a noticeable seem. I was apprehensive about this at first but after I saw the finished product, I think it's really cool looking and that it actually adds to the character. You'll see what I mean.

  18. #96
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    Tim,
    I think they made a seam at the bottom of the half round bulge that goes along the each side at the top. You can't see it but there is a noticeable seam at the back unlike the one on the roof that is an overlap and made to be seen. The one at the back is very small and noticeable only when pointed out. I'm very happy with the wrap but under a magnifying glass, a good paint job will beat a wrap every time just in sheer shininess. Cost and effort were the big factors for me. The reason your wrap shop is excited about wrapping your Hot Rod is because they never get the opportunity to wrap them. Almost all Hot Rodders end up with $10 - $15,000 paint jobs. Then when they get their first stone chip they wanna commit suicide. So they end up as trailer queens to protect their investment. Poppycock....

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  20. #97
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    Tim & Duff33, I can't believe I forgot to mention that I have a YouTube vid of the car. I'll still send some pics of the roof seem, dash and some other goodies but if you put 'Mark Joy Hot Rod' in the YouTube search engine, it will be the first thing that comes up.

  21. #98
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    Guys, here's my 1st attempt to send some pictures. These 2 are the dash and back interior panel. P_20180720_114055_BF_p.jpgP_20180720_114132_BF_p.jpg

  22. #99
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    Looks good with the CF

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  24. #100
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    This is the roof seamP_20180720_114032_BF_p.jpg

    These are some micro-bubbles in a seam at the edge of my roof. One of the "imperfections" I would have to point out if you were standing looking at it. P_20180720_114008_BF_p.jpg

    This is an unavoidable seam located on each side behind the rear wheel where the 2 pieces come together.P_20180720_114014_BF_p.jpg

    Lastly, this is one of the engine. Just because. It's a slightly de-tuned 406 SMC that formerly resided in a dirt late model I used to run during another life...P_20180720_105446_BF_p.jpg

  25. #101
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    One thing that I would like to point out that is unique (besides the wrap) is my idea of using the engine side panels. As you can see in the engine picture, I used about 6" of the side panel and it is firmly attached to the front. It's held in place by the headlight on top and 2 quarter inch bolts on the bottom. I liked the idea of an open engine compartment but am able to hide the hood hardware and sides of the grille. It made for an interesting continuation of the white stripe as well.

  26. #102
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    Mark
    Thank you very much for the pictures, they give me inspiration to continue with the plan for a wrap. Love the look of the carbon fiber dash. If you don't point out the issues I bet no one even notices.

  27. #103
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    Its been a couple of weeks since my last post, progress is being made. The body was prepped for paint and the dash area and inside door area were painted. I opted to locate the gauges in the non-recommended areas, so quite a bit of measuring was done and the gauge locations laid out making sure the speedometer and tack would not interfere with the brake lines coming from the master cylinders.July2018 001.JPG After a couple of days I worked up the nerve to drill all the holes for the gauges and switches. I then applied a fiber carbon wrap to the dash area and disassembled the temporary gauge panel and put the gauges in the dash. July2018 008.JPG Then with the help of a friend the body was put back on the chassis.
    Couple of phases I like, “put it together, take it apart”, and “learn by your mistakes”, well even better if you can learn from someone elses mistakes. So of those of you who are going to put the body on the chassis, if you are using the supplied heat and sound insulation, make sure you remove it from the inside of the fire wall, otherwise the body is a to far back. Also if you are going to use the supplied seat belts, make sure you tighten the shoulder attachment bolts and install the trunk hinges before the body goes on, it would make life so much easier.

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  29. #104
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    I had originally fit the hood to the body last fall before the body was taken back off the chassis to install the motor. I had scribed the grill location so after I put the motor in I lined it back up to that location. I also had installed all the hinge brackets using sheet metal screws rather than the rivnuts, that way the drilled hole for the sheet metal screw is the pilot hole. That worked well except for the striker plate and pin. The hood fit well, maybe a little more gap at the grill than I like but that can be addressed down the road. The striker plate for some reason had to be move forward, which then won’t have the rivnuts imbedded in the aluminum, so I welded an extension onto the plate so that it would be able to pick up the aluminum.July2018 011.JPG But that made the shoulder bolt to long, so I had a shorter shoulder bolt, but that still just hit the top of the grill when closing, so a slight notch was ground into the grill for clearance. It is a very fine line for clearance, if the sticker plate is to far back the nut for the shoulder bolt hits the radiator, too far forward and the shoulder bolt does not line up with the latch. The latch bracket can be adjusted side to side but not forward and back, so I removed it and milled slots so that I could move it forward. There is no way to get your hand between the grill and radiator to reinstall the latch, best way it to tape the nuts on the end of a screwdriver and be able to hold the nut to the bottom of the screw and spin the screw. The nut for the shoulder bolt just rubs the front of the grill when the hood is fully open, but the hood does not need to open that far, so I will install a stop so that it does not scrape on the grill. The hood did fall off the body when the gas shocks were in the factory position so the bottom mounting hole was lowered by 2 inches. July2018 014.JPGAfter several adjustments it all works. Then the release cable, which is plenty long enough but did not have enough of the cable itself sticking through, so I pulled the cable out of the sheath and cut the sheath back a couple of inches, that works fine but the latch would not return probable because of the friction in the sheath, so I added a return spring. Next step will be to install the guide pin receivers in the firewall.

  30. #105
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    I am following ALL you 33' builders on this forum and learning a TON of good stuff. Mark Joy, there is no way you would remember me but I saw you and your car at Huntington Beach a few moths back, I was on an exploritory journey to see if I should go forward with FF33', and you were very generous with your time and answered many questions about your experience. Thank You. And I now HAVE a 33' on order... Est mid to end Aug to be ready. I stood next to your car the whole time you were answering questions and until you told me the car was a wrap,,,, I did not know. Good job. I'm not sure I will go that way but I am SURE thinking about it. My build will be pretty basic but I am amazed at how creative and talented the builders in this Factory Five community are.

  31. #106
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    Andy,
    I talked to so many people at the Huntington Beach show that it would be next to impossible to remember exactly who you are. It pleases me to think that I my have had any influence in your decision to build a 33.
    I didn't discover this forum until my build was almost complete but I will look forward to seeing your progress and will be happy to offer any advice you may need.

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  33. #107
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    Ok Mark, like it or not, YOU are the man. I was going to do an F5 33' 5 years ago but talked myself out of it. NOW retired and at 70' I need one last big project before I can't do one. My buddy and I went to Huntington Beach event to get me off the fence. YOUR car is the First I had ever seen in person and was done in a way that pleases me,,, So, I will be using you and your car as some of my inspiration. I have been gathering parts and info since the event and got REAL lucky and ordered my kit on the Sale they are running now. That was an unexpected bonus. It was not hard to get $8K+ in options for the 50% off discount. I even ordered options that I may Not use. AND I took your advise to take the roadster windshield and not the Delete credit even though I am going Hardtop. Hey, maybe I will change my mind. I sold two hot rods, 52' Chevy PU and 70' Dart Swinger, to make room and am totally committed now. I hope my 33' comes out half as good as yours and all the other great examples I see on this forum. Thx again.

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  35. #108
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    OK, looking for opinions when you pull a bone head move. I was installing the trunk sheet metal and foolishly drilled a couple of 1/8 holes in the side of the gas tank. Other than pulling the tank put and replacing it (of course the body is on) anybody have any great ideas?

  36. #109
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    Braze it with brass... Spot filler TIG...

    It's only 1/8" -- a good epoxy could take care of it for good.
    -- Mike --
    TxMike64
    TxM Garage

  37. #110
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    If it was my tank I would use 3M Aerospace P/S AC-240 Class B-12. After mixing dip a pop rivet in it then insert and pull rivet then coat the rivet with same. This is a aircraft fuel tank sealant. I have used it many time on aircraft fuel tank with very good results..

  38. #111
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    Thank you Smoking Joe, I had looked at most of the "gas tank repair products" available at Amazon and auto parts stores but none of them had great reviews, leaks again after different amounts of time. The 3M product which probale is not know to the general public, is available through several different vendors, so I will order it today and give it a try.

  39. #112
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    OnlyAndy, I'm flattered by your words. Since I'm also retired I am available to provide you any advice I can muster. No problem too small and if I can't help, there are plenty of great & talented minds on this forum. I look forward to your build thread.

  40. #113
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    Just a quick update on the build. Hopefully fixed the holes in the gas tank, taped the holes to 10/32, coated the screws with the 3M epoxy, threaded them in tight, then covered the heads with the epoxy, let cure for a couple of days and put gas back in. Its been a week so far and so good.
    Raised the seats by 3 inches, for the drivers seat I used the seat adjusted from my old pickup, slight modification to make it work.aug 2018 002.JPG
    Have layed out the cuts in the doors for the side windows, had to grind down the flange for the gasket to fit over before I could measure. Passenger side is tighter than the drivers side, hopefully that wont be an issue for the glass. I have read that FF5 has a slightly smaller glass. Once I get the nerve to cut we will find out.Aug2018x2 007.JPG
    I am going to run full fenders but want to remove some of the side panels and be able to mount the headlights without disassembling, well see how this turns out. Aug2018x2 001.JPGAug2018x2 004.JPGWill have to fabricate bracing to stop the fender from drooping.

  41. #114
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    With the side panels cut that much you will need finder bracing!

  42. #115
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    Fender bracing made, tied to the chassis and from side to side. Can thread in studs that the fenders will line up with making installing the fenders much easier ( I hope).Aug2018x3 005.JPGAug2018x3 006.JPGAug2018x3 009.JPG. Also raised the bottom attachment for the gas shocks for the hood, which eliminated the latch pin hitting the top of the grill when opening the hood.

  43. #116
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    nice fabrication work on the bracing, simple and functional.
    Kudos

    Dale

  44. #117
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    Still trying to decide what to do about the slot in the door for the window, I still think the specified slot is too narrow for the supplied rubber strips, so I moved on to the door handle ( which needs to be done before the window anyway). Had to make a new clevis because the cable is too shortSept2018x2 003.JPGSept2018x2 004.JPG and had to shorten the long leg of the spring because it rubbed on the inside of the door. But the garage needs a new roof, so that has taken priority.Sept2018x2 008.JPG

  45. #118
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    Attachment 95450Attachment 95451Finally solved my issue with the weather strips for the power windows, found a weather strip that fits the cut slot nicely. Door handles are in and working, windows go up and down. Did have to put a small piece of angle iron on the top of the upright for the windows, cut them at length per the manuel but when the window was full up the nylon piece would ride higher than the upright. Really did not want to weld on a piece to make it longer.
    Next I think I will try to figure out the small sheet metal pieces and what weather strips to use on the interior, near the door hinges, looks like they over lap some of the other sheet metal.Oct2018x2 001.JPGOct2018x2 002.JPGOct2018x2 007.JPG

  46. #119
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    not sure if the pictures of the windows loaded correctly, so try again.Oct2018 008.JPGOct2018 009.JPG

  47. #120
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    Looks great! where did you end up finding the right weather strip for the windows?

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