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Thread: Duff33 Build

  1. #121
    Senior Member Tampa33Build's Avatar
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    Really like how it turned out, where did you get the weatherstrip?
    Like your door handles also, where did you get them?

  2. #122
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    Door handles came with the kit, weather strip came from Steele Rubber Products #70-3854-99

  3. #123
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    Re4ally a nice clean look, good job.

  4. #124
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    I agree, came out nice. I'll have to check it out in person.

  5. #125
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    I like your wheel and tire selection. Could you share the exact selections?

  6. #126
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    Hey Plimpton I searched for a long time for wheels and tires, saved the ones I liked in my favorites and after saving the same ones several times that made the choise. They are Mickey Thompson Street Comp 245-45R17 and 315-35R17. Rims are American Racing AR105M 17x8--4.5 back space and AR105M 17 x 10.5 with 6.875 back spacing. The problem was the rears did not have enough back spacing, tire was way to close to the inner fender well, so I added a .875 wheel spacer to move them out. But in order to do that I had to go with longer wheel studs, which ment pulling the axles. I plan on running full fenders and I should move the rears out a little more to "fill" the fender opening but are reluctant to add more wheel spacer. At the present time I have 5" ride heigth rear and 4.75 in the front.

  7. #127
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    While I am at it here is a quick update on the build. I have trimed and fit the rear cockpit cover, thats a real joy. To located where the roll bar passes through I took a laser pointer and suspended it over the center of the tube that accepts the roll bar, then with out moving the pointer reinstalled the cover and marked the point, repeated for the other side. i think it worked out well. Roll bar needed some work to get it to fit down far enough. All back out to do the covering for the cockpit cover.
    Next was fitting the front portion of the engine side cover and front fender (did the vinyl cover on the side cover). Installed the front side cover, installed the head light though the side cover into the bracket beside the radiator then tried to put the fender on, it doesn't fit, head light is in the way. Looks like if you are running full fenders the headlights should be mounted on the fender, not through the side cover, unless I am missing something. Nov2018 009.JPGNov2018 010.JPGNov2018 011.JPGNov2018 012.JPGNov2018 014.JPGbummer.

  8. #128
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    There's two holes in the bracket, the upper hole is for full fenders and the lower hole is with out.
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

  9. #129
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    I am in the upper hole, looks like if it was about an inch higher it would be fine.

  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by duff33 View Post
    Hey Plimpton I searched for a long time for wheels and tires, saved the ones I liked in my favorites and after saving the same ones several times that made the choise. They are Mickey Thompson Street Comp 245-45R17 and 315-35R17. Rims are American Racing AR105M 17x8--4.5 back space and AR105M 17 x 10.5 with 6.875 back spacing. The problem was the rears did not have enough back spacing, tire was way to close to the inner fender well, so I added a .875 wheel spacer to move them out. But in order to do that I had to go with longer wheel studs, which ment pulling the axles. I plan on running full fenders and I should move the rears out a little more to "fill" the fender opening but are reluctant to add more wheel spacer. At the present time I have 5" ride heigth rear and 4.75 in the front.
    Duff, thanks for the detailed reply. I will definitely use the info.

  11. #131
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    Solved the head light fit. I was in the top hole in the bracket Nov2018x2 002.JPG, but that set the head light on the fender. Made an extention for the bracket Nov2018x2 004.JPG, that moved the head light up 2". Now all fits, one of those things that you do that no one will ever know.Nov2018x2 007.JPGNov2018x2 009.JPG

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  13. #132
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    Couple of questions, I would like to mount the switches for the power windows on each door but the bezel that comes with the switches is to mount them side by side not individually, does anybody know where you can get individual bezels that would fit the supplied swithes?? Other option would be to mount them together on a console with the supplied bezel, is there a "universal" console that a company has that would fit the 33 or are they all "custom" made?? I don't like the idea of mounting them under the dash.

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  15. #133
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    If you are by yourself and switch is in door how will you open or close window ? PS

  16. #134
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    You are correct, I would not be able to open the PS, good point. Console might be the way to go.

  17. #135
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by duff33 View Post
    Couple of questions, I would like to mount the switches for the power windows on each door but the bezel that comes with the switches is to mount them side by side not individually, does anybody know where you can get individual bezels that would fit the supplied swithes?? Other option would be to mount them together on a console with the supplied bezel, is there a "universal" console that a company has that would fit the 33 or are they all "custom" made?? I don't like the idea of mounting them under the dash.
    Check this out. http://www.classictruckconsoles.com/
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  18. #136
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    Thank you, I will do some research

  19. #137
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    I forgot about this one. http://www.modernclassicsinteriors.com/
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

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  21. #138
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    I picked up a console from Innovative Rodding a few years ago, do not know if he still does them. We just built a box out of wood for the console glove box. Mounted the Window switches on it. Then used the contact connectors in lieu of wiring through the door. I am pretty happy with the look and function. We used the panel contacts versus wire through the doors for the electrical connections.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kcw-10633/overview/


    Console-2.jpgConsole-3.jpgConsole-8.jpgSeq-17a5.jpgSeq-17a6.jpgSeq-17b.jpgSeq-17b4.jpgSeq-17c.jpgSeq-17e9.jpg]Seq-17g1.jpg
    Last edited by wrp; 12-03-2018 at 07:07 PM.

  22. #139
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    Thank you guys !!!

  23. #140
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    Duff, where did you get the trim ring for your shift boot? I need a rectangular one similar to yours.
    Nice work on the console.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  24. #141
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    Hey Jim
    I am still dreaming of a console, trim ring is on wrp's build

  25. #142
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    Last edited by wrp; 12-05-2018 at 02:03 PM.

  26. #143
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    Thanks guys.
    I'm liking the Lokar 70 one.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  27. #144
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  29. #145
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Bill,

    I thought you were going to do an LS swap, or was I dreaming?
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  30. #146
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    I went ahead and sold the LS motor I had. It has taken a year to get this far so I thought I would just leave it with the small block and LS the next one. LoL, did I post this in your thread?

  31. #147
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    Going to run full fenders and running boards and have been afraid if someone stepped on the running board that would be the end of them. I have seen several posts where folks have made braces under them. So took those ideas and came up with ones that will clamp on the chassis and support the bottom side of the running board. Seem to work OK, I can stand on one brace at a time and it supports my weight. Just had to undo my brake line that was fastened to the chassis so I could slip the top piece over the chassis, then reattached the brake line. This was a good cold weather project, welding warms up the hands.Dec2018 002.JPGDec2018 003.JPGDec2018 006.JPGDec2018 007.JPG

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  33. #148
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    I have been able to get a few things done on the hot rod in the past couple of weeks, trunk aluminum is in place ( this time I did not drill through the gas tank!)Jan2019 004.JPG. Rugs are in place and tacked down, seats are just set in place for the time being. Working on a console that will go between the seats, hopefully a storage area and be able to put the power window switches and a couple of others ( wipers, power steering and any other dodad I want to add)Jan2019 007.JPG. The console will get covered with the faux leather that was for the rear cockpit cover. Did have to change the shifter to a longer stem, just couldn't reach the short one when I had the seat belts on, that was a little more detailed than I was figuring on, but its done.

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  35. #149
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    I think everybody is right and it has been fairly quite on the 33 forum, must be the winter doldrums. I have for the most part finished the console.Jan2019x2 002.JPG Its covered in the faux leather, (which now needs to be cleaned) supplied arm rest is hinged and set at a nice hieght to be able to rest my arm on it and have some storage.Jan2019x2 006.JPG Switches are wired up but still waiting on a usb port that will be placed between the power window switches.
    On the supplied arm rest I did have to reglue and install some screws to hold it together where the top wraps around the sides onto the metal backing. I have noticed the same issue on a couple of pictures from other builds so I guess its a comman problem.
    I was going to pull the fenders off today to get them ready for the vinyl wrap, but seeing its only 4 degrees I will wait a couple of days for it to warm up some.

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  37. #150
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    I am sure this has happened to everyone who is building, or at least I hope I am not the only one. You are working on a project and you say Oh no I shouldn't have done that, I'll have to get back to that. Well one of mine was when I was fitting the hood last summer, I had to build up on of the front corners with resin, I had the grill taped off but not well enough and had a couple of drops of resin drip onto the edge of the grill. Well it was time to get back to that. So with a razor knife I carefully scraped of the drips but that still left a discoloration, now what. I took some 600 grit paper and cleaned the discoloration, looked good but now the rest of the grill didn't match. One of the other shouldn't have done that moments was when I first opened the hood and the stricker pin scraped the top of the grill. For that I had to sand the mark with 400 grill paper to remove the scratch. I ended up doing the entire grill with 600 grit, then 800 grit, then 1500 grit all with aluminum polish as a lubricate. I think it turned out well, but that was 10 hours I had not planned on.Feb2019 003.JPG

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  39. #151
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    Looks really good

  40. #152
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    OK here is another interesting little twist. Way back last summer I fit the trunk lid, opened and closed nicely, left the brackets tight and just removed the bolts into the trunk lid itself. In the mean time I have installed the truck sheet metal. Now its time to reinstall the trunk lid, so I put the bolts back in the original position, closed the lid and it binds and I could not open it again. Went back to the directions and you are suppose to reach up from underneath to adjust, thats fine if you dont have the floor in. I was able to pry up the corners to get the bolts back out and remove the lid. Looks like I am going to have to remove the sheet metal so I can reach up and readjust everything. Just another case of put it together and take it apart.
    I have been able to do more of the vinyl wrap, learn something everytime, someday I might be able to do a section without any errors.

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  42. #153
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    I was wandered what i would do if the trunk would bind and i can't get it opened, so i bolted the cover for the hole directly below the latch from the outside with rivnuts. So now i can crawl under, remove the cover and reach up and get to the latch.

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  44. #154
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    After days of adjusting the trunk lid I have it as close as its going to get for the time being. I did not have to remove the trunk floor. Opens and closes fine, still does not close tight with the weather strip across the bottom, might have to lower the lip that it slips over. I was not a big fan of the supplied trunk latch so I went a different root. March2019x2 001.JPGThe latch hook was too wide to bolt to the trunk in the land on the lid so I made a plate that bolts to the lid with rivnuts on the flat, the bolted the latch hook to the plate. Then made a plate that bolts to the body with a 3/8 bolt that the latch hook goes around and put a piece of polyethylene on the plate so its not metal on metal. March2019x2 003.JPG Still have to shorten the square shaft for the handle but thats easy. Works out well.

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  46. #155
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    Where did you find this trunk latch / assembly? I have been looking but no luck, any help would be appreciated.

    Bob Hunt

  47. #156
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    Hi Bob I did an internet search and found it at Dannys Rod Shop. I looked this morning and don't see it listed anymore. I will search again, I did see it a couple of other places.

  48. #157
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dodgeman View Post
    Where did you find this trunk latch / assembly? I have been looking but no luck, any help would be appreciated.

    Bob Hunt
    You might find Soutco or Austin Hardware to be helpful on the latch. It may take some looking though.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  49. #158
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    speedway has some.

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  51. #159
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    It has been awhile since I posted anything, just trying to tie up a lot of loose ends, tail lights, licence plate holder, cowl plates, things like that. I also temporarily installed the interior door panels figuring that when the hard top goes on for the final time I might have to adjust the side windows to make sure they line up well with the hard top. Before drilling the holes for the push pins in the doors I used the specified drill size and drilled a hole in a scrap piece of fiberglass, then had to use a claw hammer to get it back out, so I stepped up on the drill size. As I said I want to be able to remove the panel but also want it tight. After transfering all the pin locations in the door I drilled a couple of holes, put the pins in the panels and put the panel inplace. Turns out the thickness of the fiberglass will determine what drill size you should use, the thicker the fiberglass the smaller the drill if you ever want to remove the panels and the thickness of the door varies quite a bit.
    Hopefully fenders will be going on in the next few days and then it might be ready to come out in the sun shine.

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  53. #160
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    Finally out in the sunshineMay2019x2 003.JPGMay2019x2 005.JPGMay2019x2 007.JPGMay2019x2 008.JPG Still a lot more to do

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