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Thread: Yama-Bro's MK4 Build Thread - #9158

  1. #281

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    Base kit does not come with brake hose to frame brackets because it assumes a donor rear end and brakes. Complete kit rear brakes adds the bracket. BTW the bracket is better installed horizontally, (rivet to the top surface of the 3/4" tube), so the brake hose enters from below and forms a "U" shape. This allows the hose to roll more and twist less like it likes to do as the suspension goes up and down as the spindle turns. Also keeps the hose from pointing at the tire and wheel. I recommend changing the orientation before you do the hard line plumbing.
    www.breezeautomotive.com 2005 FFR Mk3 Roadster, 302/340hp, MassFlo EFI, Breeze Pulleys, T5, Aluminum Flywheel, 3-link rear with Torsen Diff and 3.27:1 gears, Power Steering, Breeze Front Sway Bar, SN-95 Spindles with outboard SAI Mod, Breeze Battery Mount, QA1 Externally Adjustable Shocks, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Vintage Race seats, GM Arctic White, Sky Blue Scoop, Hidden Hinges, Billet Aluminum Side-view Mirrors, 2,183lbs wet. 1967 Mustang Fastback, Dark Moss Green, black interior, '67 14" styled steel wheels, 2000 Explorer 302 w 5.0 Cam, Quickfuel 450 CFM, 289 Hi-Po Dual exhaust, C4, lowering springs w Shelby drop.

  2. #282
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Reynolds View Post
    Base kit does not come with brake hose to frame brackets because it assumes a donor rear end and brakes. Complete kit rear brakes adds the bracket. BTW the bracket is better installed horizontally, (rivet to the top surface of the 3/4" tube), so the brake hose enters from below and forms a "U" shape. This allows the hose to roll more and twist less like it likes to do as the suspension goes up and down as the spindle turns. Also keeps the hose from pointing at the tire and wheel. I recommend changing the orientation before you do the hard line plumbing.
    Mark, that's some good advice. Since I already attached the front brackets, I may leave it as is, but I can get what you are saying to work in the back. So I'll use your advice back there for sure. Thanks!
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 09-14-2018 at 07:53 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  3. #283
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Last weekend I had another distraction that took me away from the build. It was Factory Five related and in my garage, so I figure it's worth a post in my build thread. The company hot rod spent the weekend in my garage so I could put BPE tire stickers on it. They turned out good. The BPE stickers are probably more difficult to apply then typical tire stickers because each letter/line that is a different color is an individual piece of rubber. That and these stickers are a little shorter font then the ones on my car, which made it even more challenging. As you may have guessed, those pieces don't always like to stay where they are meant to be, so there is some wrangling to get them in the correct location. I'm getting better at these the more I do them and I had a friend aiding with alignment on these, which really helped.

    As a bonus, I got to cruise around in the hot rod a bit. It was nice to see what driving a FFR hot rod is like. So far I've driven two FFR roadsters and a hot rod. I'm feeling blessed. The two roadsters were 3 link and the hot rod is IRS. The hot rod definitely rides smoother. It gets a lot of looks, thumbs up and waves, just like everyone reports when driving a roadster.

    I always dreamed my garage would have this many cool rides sitting in it at once...




    This is a steel bodied hotrod. We are still in the planning stages on the paint color...


    The powerplant in the hotrod is the BPE 306 with the Holly Sniper fuel injection and the TKO-600 transmission. This one is setup with AC. It doesn't have power steering.


    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 09-14-2018 at 07:53 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  4. #284
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Flexible brake lines...done...

    Here are the rear brake flexible lines. Factory Five sent me a a second pair of brackets for the rear. I used a 45 degree adapter on the calipers and 18" lines. I deviated from the suggested frame mount location by putting the bracket on the bottom side of the angled tube. Doing it this way doesn't require the line to flex and twist as much when the suspension goes thru its paces (like Mark suggested above. Thanks Mark!). Plus the line completely clears the suspension and wheels. I feel like I achieved elegance on this one.


    A view looking down from the top...


    A view from the back...


    I reworked the front brake lines. I wasn't happy with my previous attempt. I ended up buying some 14" lines and used straight adapters (vs the 18" lines and 45 degree adapters that were included with the brakes). These have decent clearance when the wheels are turned without having excessive brake line. This view is looking from behind the passenger side front.


    From the top looking down...


    This is the passenger side with the wheel turned fully to the left. I may have got by with couple inches less.


    This is looking down from above with the wheel turned fully to the right. The line is close, but has clearance. It looks worse in this pic than it really is.


    PS, I used loc-tite blue on the adapter threads going into the calipers and nothing on the 3AN brake line threads.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 09-23-2018 at 08:36 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

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  6. #285
    BluePrintEngines's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yama-Bro View Post
    Last weekend I had another distraction that took me away from the build. It was Factory Five related and in my garage, so I figure it's worth a post in my build thread. The company hot rod spent the weekend in my garage so I could put BPE tire stickers on it. They turned out good. The BPE stickers are probably more difficult to apply then typical tire stickers because each letter/line that is a different color is an individual piece of rubber. That and these stickers are a little shorter font then the ones on my car, which made it even more challenging. As you may have guessed, those pieces don't always like to stay where they are meant to be, so there is some wrangling to get them in the correct location. I'm getting better at these the more I do them and I had a friend aiding with alignment on these, which really helped.

    As a bonus, I got to cruise around in the hot rod a bit. It was nice to see what driving a FFR hot rod is like. So far I've driven two FFR roadsters and a hot rod. I'm feeling blessed. The two roadsters were 3 link and the hot rod is IRS. The hot rod definitely rides smoother. It gets a lot of looks, thumbs up and waves, just like everyone reports when driving a roadster.

    I always dreamed my garage would have this many cool rides sitting in it at once...




    This is a steel bodied hotrod. We are still in the planning stages on the paint color...


    The powerplant in the hotrod is the BPE 306 with the Holly Sniper fuel injection and the TKO-600 transmission. This one is setup with AC. It doesn't have power steering.


    You'll have to post all those pictures over on this one!
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ight=blueprint
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  7. #286
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    I was pretty excited to get these parts in the mail. I ordered a pair of Girling reproduction brake reservoirs for an Austin Healey from Moss Motors in England. Since I'm going for a vintage vibe, I thought these would be perfect. There is a US version of Moss motors that carries the same part, but they had these on back order for several months. I bought the reservoir assemblies and the mounting clamps from Moss. I ordered a pair of 90 4-AN to 1/4" barbed adaptors (p/n: 3488-04-90) from Pegasus Automotive in the states so I could connect the reservoirs to the hose that FFR supplies.


    I had to make a bracket to hold the reservoirs to the frame. I started by making a prototype out of cardboard. This felt a little awkward, as it's the first time in years that I've created something that I didn't design with CAD beforehand. HAHA. I've used SolidWorks for all kinds of home projects, from furniture, to sheds, to ATV parts. I considered using CAD on this, but for some reason decided to just wing it the "old fashioned" way. Maybe I wanted to show my kids how to do it the manual way? I don't know, but we had good results.

    Design notes based on others' posts on this forum: I measured back from the frame's radiator support tube 20", and then gave myself an extra 1" to have clearance for the hood support. I setup the reservoirs so the caps are a minimum of .25" under the top of the 3/4" frame tube. The edge of the caps are about 1" from the tube to avoid running into the body that overhangs the tube.


    I transferred the design onto a .125" thick sheet of aluminum. My son did the cutting and drilling.


    Here's the cut plate. We also made a support piece out of 1.50" x 1.50" x .125" thick alum angle. We cut one of the angle piece's legs down to be .75" long so it doesn't overhang the frame tube.


    We threw a coat of paint on them, so they match the frame.


    Here are a couple views of the mounting plate attached to the frame. We used 3/16 rivets to secure the parts...

    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-08-2018 at 10:11 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  8. #287
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Those will look awesome!!
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  9. #288
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    After the mounting brackets were attached, we assembled the brake reservoirs and attached them...




    Backside of the bracket...
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  10. #289
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Looks outstanding!

    Chris
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  11. #290
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Nicely done x 2. Love the look of those vintage cans. Also love to see a kid with a jig saw and not a game controller in his hand.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

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  13. #291
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Which fittings did you use for the bottom of those cans?
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  14. #292
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Which fittings did you use for the bottom of those cans?
    They are 3488-04-90, SKU: 55579
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
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  15. #293
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Those will look awesome!!
    Quote Originally Posted by cgundermann View Post
    Looks outstanding!

    Chris
    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    Nicely done x 2. Love the look of those vintage cans. Also love to see a kid with a jig saw and not a game controller in his hand.
    -Steve
    Thanks guys!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  16. #294
    Member Dagwoods's Avatar
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    Build looking great. You mentioned that you positioned your bracket for the brake reservoirs 20" back from radiator support bar. Is that from the front edge of your bracket? I am looking to hang my reservoirs this weekend and would appreciate any advice.

    Thanks,

    Andrew
    Mk IV #9273 Ordered 11/14/17 Delivered 1/29/2018
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  17. #295
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagwoods View Post
    Build looking great. You mentioned that you positioned your bracket for the brake reservoirs 20" back from radiator support bar. Is that from the front edge of your bracket? I am looking to hang my reservoirs this weekend and would appreciate any advice.

    Thanks,

    Andrew
    Hi Andrew! My measurement was taken from the backside of the radiator support tube. I also added approx 1" just to be safe, so it is more like 21" from the back of the support tube.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  18. #296
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    I connected the brake hoses to the reservoirs this week. We also got a good start on the hard brake lines, but you don't get to see pictures of those yet.

    I started by drilling two holes in the front of the foot box for the hoses to pass thru. The 3/16" thick steel on the other side of the aluminum made it more difficult than it needed to be.


    I added grommets to the holes. I got the grommets from McMaster Carr. I had to order 50 for $17 shipped, so if anyone needs some, let me know. If you send me a few dollars to cover shipping, I'll send some grommets to you. They are .50" ID for a .25" thick panel. They are made to fit in a .81" hole. I had a hard time finding a .81 hole saw or drill bit, so I ended up drilling a .75" hole and enlarging it a bit with the die grinder.


    Then I added the hoses to the grommets. I considered getting some black braided hose, because I don't like the way the red hoses look, but I figured these won't be super visible and I really should use some of the parts that came with the kit that I already paid for.


    An overview of the connections. I tried to line up all the fasteners so they are accessible once the car is finished.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-15-2018 at 12:44 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  19. #297
    Scubasommer's Avatar
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    Looks awesome
    Super clean with the grommets brother!!!!

  20. #298
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Yama-Yo-Bro,

    If having a super cool, super bad Factory Five Hot Rod sitting as a stablemate to your build doesn't motivate you, then nothing will.

    You're Getting There Brother So Wrench On, Wrench On!

    Go-Dad / aka: Steve

  21. #299
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scubasommer View Post
    Looks awesome
    Super clean with the grommets brother!!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Yama-Yo-Bro,

    If having a super cool, super bad Factory Five Hot Rod sitting as a stablemate to your build doesn't motivate you, then nothing will.

    You're Getting There Brother So Wrench On, Wrench On!

    Go-Dad / aka: Steve
    HAHA, Thanks DUDES!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  22. #300
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    Really like those old school looking cans.

  23. #301
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    He we go; the brake lines. This is one of the parts of the build I wasn't really looking forward to. I ended up enjoying it. Thanks to my friend, Nathan, for the help (and refreshments). We now have the hard brake lines, bent, flared, and installed. Neither one of us had bent brake lines in the past, so it was a fun learning experience. Nathan convinced me to cut and flare the lines to the proper length, instead of making the pre flared lines work. I'm glad he did, because I think the final product turned out better looking because of it. Our only hiccup was that we accidentally did single flares instead of double flares the first time around. Whoops. It was a relatively easy fix. The real test will come when we bleed the brakes and check for leaks. We used my Dad's old school flaring tool and tube benders. I also used several pieces of wire to plan the routing before bending any of the actual tubes. I went back and forth between ni-copp and steel tube. I settled on steel, mostly because I figured I had better use some of the parts I already paid for that came with the kit. That, and I think it'll work just fine. Actually, I anticipated screwing up a few times and figured I'd have to buy some extra lines anyways. Surprisingly, that didn't happen. We managed to make due using only the tubes supplied with the kit.

    The boys trying out the tubing cutter. I didn't get a lot of help from the boys on this stage of the build. There was a lot of going back and forth and measuring and remeasuring. Not the type of thing that keeps kids interested. At least they got to mess around with the tools and some scrap tube.



    Here's the tube that goes between the front left and the front right.


    This is showing the tubes coming from the master cylinders, inside the foot box. The master cylinder that is closest is for the front.


    Here's a shot of the tube just forward of the foot box running down to the front brake tee.


    The tube for the rear brakes on it's way out of the foot box.


    The bend in the tube at the bottom of the foot box as it heads to the rear brakes. I cleco'ed all these in this section because I still need to be able to remove the floor pan.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-30-2018 at 10:27 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  24. #302
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Hard brake lines continued...

    The run for the rear brakes going along the bottom of the car. We had one connection in this run to join together the two long pieces of tubing.


    The rear brake line coming up from the frame and going to the rear tee.


    The tee connection for the rear brakes (looking down thru the trunk floor).


    The line going from the left rear to the right rear...


    Overview of the line between the rear brakes. The line is attached to the frame in two places under the 45 degree angled tubes.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  25. #303
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    All of your bends look really great! The only thing I would possibly reconsider is your rear brake line that you have going down in the front of the foot box. You’re going to have headers literally 1 inch away from that line. I actually did the same thing and just relocated my line to the inside of the foot box this last weekend. Might want to consider doing the same. But I really like your Bends you did a fantastic job on those... nice work

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
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  26. #304
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    All of your bends look really great! The only thing I would possibly reconsider is your rear brake line that you have going down in the front of the foot box. You’re going to have headers literally 1 inch away from that line. I actually did the same thing and just relocated my line to the inside of the foot box this last weekend. Might want to consider doing the same. But I really like your Bends you did a fantastic job on those... nice work
    Hmmm, yeah. I know what you are saying. I'm a little worried about the heat. The manual shows it routed on the outside, so I figured it would be ok (but maybe not?). I originally planned to run the line thru the footbox, but I couldn't figure out a good way to get it thru (at least where I wanted to run it). I even went as far as drilling a hole in the floor for the tube to pass thru. Do you have any pictures of how you routed yours around the accelerator pedal bracket and then up to the master cylinders?
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
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  27. #305
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Basically I came out of the top of the MC and routed the hard line over the front inside corner of the footbox. Then straight down the wall past the go peddle and through a hole that is right in the corner of the 4" and 1.5" frame tubing. You can see in these two photos if you look close what I'm talking about... as it went down the wall past the gas peddle I had to bend it out and follow the shape of the 4" tube to keep it nice and tight. It does not look like I'll have any interference with the use of the gas peddle as it is actually behind (in front of) the peddle when I'm at full throttle. The Red arrows are pointing at the rear line from the MC out... Hope this gives you an idea. Also, the photo shows where the headers fall in relations to the foot box.

    IMG_2341.JPG IMG_2338-v1.jpg IMG_2367.jpg IMG_2369v1.jpg

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
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  28. #306
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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  29. #307
    Senior Member broku518's Avatar
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    Hi Yama-bro. I ran my lines inside the first time. I felt like it would look cleaner, and when I bled my brake I had 3 leaks, one in DS area. It was a mess to clean up.
    I also try to imagine the car fully assembled, that would drive my connection position and orientation. For easy access once the car is done. I am 1000 miles plus now, and it as a b*** to work on this thing!

    I have it just like yours now.

    Now, every time I park in garage I look underneath the car for leaks. It would be easy to spot outside leak vs. interior leak, IMO.

    But either way you run those make sure they don't leak
    Life is short, so start living it.
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-in-the-garage!
    delivery date: 10/31/2017, first start 2/24/2018, title and registration passed 6/22/2018

  30. #308
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input guys. I'm trying to decide if I should change it or leave it.

    Broku, Do you have an infrared temp gun? I'd be interested to know what the temp is on the brake line after a drive. Or possibly worse yet, let it sit and idle up to operating temp.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 11-01-2018 at 03:44 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
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  31. #309
    Senior Member broku518's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yama-Bro View Post
    Thanks for the input guys. I'm trying to decide if I should change it or leave it.

    Broku, Do you have an infrared temp gun? I'd be interested to know what the temp is on the brake line after a drive.
    I don't. I ended up putting some heat shield tape in that area to cover the line.
    Life is short, so start living it.
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  32. #310
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broku518 View Post
    Hi Yama-bro. I ran my lines inside the first time. I felt like it would look cleaner, and when I bled my brake I had 3 leaks, one in DS area. It was a mess to clean up.
    I also try to imagine the car fully assembled, that would drive my connection position and orientation. For easy access once the car is done. I am 1000 miles plus now, and it as a b*** to work on this thing!

    I have it just like yours now.

    Now, every time I park in garage I look underneath the car for leaks. It would be easy to spot outside leak vs. interior leak, IMO.

    But either way you run those make sure they don't leak
    I agree, you would not want a leak anywhere, but especially on the inside.... But running it like this, the only place you could have a leak on the inside is the same place, at the MC. Short of cutting or braking the line on the inside, but then again it is actually protected more inside than outside.... I guess it really comes down to personal preference and the actual amount of heat they get from being an inch or so away from the exhaust... while your moving it may not be bad if there is air flow there. I can not tell you how much air flow would be there as I have no idea from any sort of personal experience at this point...

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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    I agree, you would not want a leak anywhere, but especially on the inside.... But running it like this, the only place you could have a leak on the inside is the same place, at the MC. Short of cutting or braking the line on the inside, but then again it is actually protected more inside than outside.... I guess it really comes down to personal preference and the actual amount of heat they get from being an inch or so away from the exhaust... while your moving it may not be bad if there is air flow there. I can not tell you how much air flow would be there as I have no idea from any sort of personal experience at this point...
    Agree with Carl. I have mine run on the inside. If you run a straight line from the MC down through the panel and then down the 4" tube, you can have a union right there. That way any leaks that happen would typically happen outside the footbox, unless you have a breach in the line somehow, but that would be on the inside both ways.
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    Boiling your brake fluid sucks. Do whatever you can to limit the heat the brake lines see.

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    I asked FFR about this. Since they have a lot of experience building these cars and driving them I thought I'd get their advice. Their rule of thumb is brake lines should be a minimum of 1.5" from coated/insulated headers and a minimum of 3.0" from uninsulated exhaust. The ceramic coated headers fall into the insulated category.
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    Oh, I totally forgot to put this on here from the other day... after my 1st run, i put the laser on the front foot box cover and after only the 10-12 minutes of running at idle, the foot box was 250* at the point where I had my line originally running down that area and yours is at just about the same place. The header there is about 1.5-2" away...

    Remember, this was sitting still, now air flow going past it... again, not sure how much you would get in that area behind the splash shield anyway...

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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Oh, I totally forgot to put this on here from the other day... after my 1st run, i put the laser on the front foot box cover and after only the 10-12 minutes of running at idle, the foot box was 250* at the point where I had my line originally running down that area and yours is at just about the same place. The header there is about 1.5-2" away...

    Remember, this was sitting still, now air flow going past it... again, not sure how much you would get in that area behind the splash shield anyway...
    Thanks! Excellent data!
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